I just got an IPV3 and I love it, however I notice when I go to fire it, the ohms and voltage change either up or down say for example the voltage goes from 4.18 to 4.08 and the ohms go from .44 to .42 to .39. Is this normal on the IPV3 or is there an issue with mine. I use song vtc4s and I did the firmware update the other night when I got home with it. I was also confused because the specs for it says that it goes from 1 volt to 7 volts, however mine reads 8 volts or a little over when i get to 100 watts and above ( not vaping just testing to see what the voltage would change to) any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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IPV3 Display issue
- Thread starter packers2430
- Start date
While it is normal for those values to change, very few devices actually show it to you on the fly, but some do. I don't have specific experience with the IPV but can say that the displays on the Sigelei 100W and Vaporshark are "live". The resistance of wire actually goes up as it heats so you'll see that go up and the voltage increase to maintain the wattage. You're actually seeing the opposite, but it might be an artifact from when you last fired it.
Thank you, that makes sense that its probably a live reading as im vaping it and that is why the values for the ohms and volts are changing. This is my first regulated box mod, coming from using mech mods most of the time and an mvp 2 a long time before that. What is a good build to safely use the higher watts the IPV offers, is it common to only go high watts with sub ohm builds and keep 1.5 ohm builds or around that closer to a lower watt ? I am going to rebuild of few of my RDAs tonight but with different builds on each one but want to be safe with it too.
Does anyone know the best ohm to shoot for and watts to get the best battery life?
stick around a .5 or so build and run about 50 to 60 watts, should have pretty decent battery life. I'm doing macro coils in mine through a darkhorse but i'm running at different settings when I feel like it so my batteries drain really fast.
Try utilizing the following tool http://www.steam-engine.org/modrange.asp. In the upper left corner pick your device and it will show you the information you're looking for.
I do not believe it is normal. Mine does not do that and never has. This is not to say that the newer versions might not as mine is from the early first run batches since I pre-ordered in Sep but I am not sure what version changes might have occurred with the sx330 v3s chip.
As far as the volt reading goes mine has always showed it going up to 8.4 volts but I have always heard ppl say it is really 7.
It's worse than that. Even if you can't understand the guy, the measurements he took with an Oziloscope, speak louder than words (pardon the pun). You can see the measurements at around 18:57 into the video. He did the same with the Sigelei 150W, with way better results.
FYI, "Mogelpackung" means deceptive packaging.
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I haven't updated, still, but the times my voltage and resistance have fluctuated have always been an issue with a connection, and for me, specifically in certain attys. The battery meter will move in "real time" while firing, and your resistance might change a tiny amount, but it should settle. No different than the build I did last night reading .41, and now it's stabilized at .43. If stuff is moving around a lot, I'm guessing somewhere you have a poor connection.
For builds, I've settled on .4-.65 dual coils in the 50-60 Watt range, depending on juice for wattage. I agree with @KappaCory essentially, it's a great build for me, and keeps reasonable battery life.
For builds, I've settled on .4-.65 dual coils in the 50-60 Watt range, depending on juice for wattage. I agree with @KappaCory essentially, it's a great build for me, and keeps reasonable battery life.
I remember that video that video as far as I can tell was a factor in the delays that happened with the ipv3 and its actual release. I believe that that was corrected quite some time ago.
which atty are you using
I forgot to ask this, is the 510 pin adjustable, too? I have attys that will screw in the 510 with the atty and cause poor connections. Also, have you tried tightening the screws to your leads again?
I meant to ask this as well.
The video was posted SEP 24, 2014.
I have the Ipv v3 first batch never had issues upgraded to 165 no issues as I said I just adjusted the screw once
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Exactly. The pre-orders did not make it to the USA until Oct.
Yeah, I've only had an issue if it was my tank causing it. I have some kayfuns that have 510 pins that aren't stable without using a gasket. I haven't had to adjust the device at all, it always reads almost identical to my ohm checker, too.
I apologize for my late reply, because of work I am not home that much to post replies but I will as soon as I am able to. I am using a plume veil on it mostly right now, its a clone from myfreedomsmokes , the 26650 version. I have a Big Buddha I am going to rebuild tomorrow if I have time to use on it too. I am taking some hits right now trying to watch the display and firing it without taking hits to see what the readings do and im on 30 watts right now just to see what it does firing when not hitting it, top part and drip tip off, volts read 5.19 and ohms read .90 when I fire it for a few seconds the ohms change to .95 to 1.00 so I assume thats because its heating up and the volts change to 5.71 after firing it. Then if i just push the fire button quick as you would to set a memory wattage the ohms and voltage go back to what I first said they were. Also does anyone know if the IPV3 will warn when batteries get to low and need to be changed out? I have just been changing them out when the meter for the battery is just under half to make sure I have enough for a whole day at work. Thank you everyone also for responding.
I have the IPV3 newer batch I believe because it has no input for the charging port that wasnt supposed to used in the first place with it. I read some people saying they adjusted the screw? what one is that, how and if its the 510 connection is that possible with it being spring loaded? I saw also on the website for pioneer4you they had the firmware I believe to go back to the 150 watt, should I try that and if it works better just stay there? I basically just want to make sure its okay, if its not a big issue that can cause damage etc then it should be fine, I never go over 100 watts anways I just like that I can use my nautilus and RDAs on the same device and lower it or raise it for different juices.
I just checked the plume veil on my ohm checker also and its reading it at .72 it was i believe 10 wraps of 26 gauge kanthal A1 , the IPV is reading it at .81 though when not firing and just pressing the fire button in quick, is one just more accurate possibly then the other?
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