Kangertech TopBox Mini Issues - Leaking, Wicking, Battery Drain...

[ArcLight]

I have been vaping since 6 days now and basically loving it but struggling on some issues.

Bought a 75w sub box starter kit down a back street and the guy set it up, ready to go.

Vaping a 3mg 80VG/20PG at 20w Ni 0.15ohm coil (cylindrical & blue banded).

The Samsung INR 18650 25R battery that came with it was discharging(?) within a couple of hours. Was a heavy smoker so been hitting it hard. Tried to figure runtime using Steam Engine battery calculator but couldn't make the coil's 0.15ohm tally with wattage and the result was nonsensical.

Bought a Nitecore D2 and 2x Sony VTC4 18650 3.7v 2100mah

So, Samsung takes five hours to charge and discharges in two. Sonys take 3 to charge and discharge after 4 hours. Both non-continuous use and I sometimes power the TopBox off.

- Question, is there maybe something wrong with the mod, am I doing something wrong, or is the runtime to be expected?

I realise now the 3mg liquid aint gonna cut it, so I've got in some 12mgs to start of with again. This brings me to my next question.

I have watched the wicking youtube guides and thought I best re-wick the Ni coil moving on from a menthol bubblegum flavour to a RY4. But this cylindrical coil hasn't a horizontal wick that I can see.

- Question, can the coil be wicked, if so how is it done and is it difficult or can the coil and wick be cleaned in someway?

So having dismantled to remove the coil I found vape liquid in the bottom section well, the one into which the coil screws into that then screws into the mod which then makes contact with the negative end of the cell.

- Question, is this supposed to happen, has the coil not been screwed in properly at installation, have I caused this through not filling and recapping quickly enough or could it be a fault with the parts and how should I clean up the internal well of this bottom section?

And the final question I would like some advice on is temperature control mode on this TopBox Mini.

- I've been using in wattage mode, the LED states 0.18ohm 0.00V 20W - Is this as it should be with the Ni coil - the voltage and ohm never changes?

- Would I be better off using the RBA mini plus, or 0.5 Clapton coil, or 0.5 SS coil using in TC mode to get the best vaping and battery runtime?

Sorry its been long-winded and multiple questions in one post, but if anyone could provide some light and advice on my questions I'd be much obliged.

Thanks.

 

[DED420]

First and foremost, the Ni200 coil should be used in TC Only. If you've been using it in Power Mode, then the coil is already ruined, and that is probably what is causing juice to pool in the AFC section. Just rinse the bottom with warm water to clean out the juice.

With TC wire, the Volts will change as it's being fired, but will return to 0.00V when resting, and the Ohms will rise as the Temp rises.

Yes, the Kanger coils can be re-wicked, with some patience, but if you have the RBA already, then it will be significantly easier to re-build and re-wick coils. I would try the SS coils though, as I've found SS to give off the best flavor (although I've heard Kangers attempt at SS TC is somewhat iffy, so I'm unsure of how well theirs will perform).

As to the batteries, there is a few factors to consider. The Samsung 25R is 2500mah, and the VTC4 is 2100mah, so the Sammys will take longer to charge, and if you started charging the cells at different remaining Volt levels, then that too can play a role in charging times. Then there's the issue of authenticity. If any of the cells are fakes, then there's the possibility that's causing the discharge rates to seem disproportionate.

 

[ArcLight]

DED420, Many thanks for your reply and I appreciate your taking the time to answer what must be basic stuff that's more than likely been answered many times before.

All the best.