So, i've been seeing alot of nice squonk mechs around lately and was thinking about purchasing one.
However, i vape a dual alien staggerton atm at 0.06 ohms on my revenger. But a build like that, i wont be able to safely vape on a mech right?
Because even if you get a parallel box you will have a limit of 60A (depending on batteries but i took the vtc5a) and if you put in 0.06 ohms and 4.2V in steamengine it gives you 294w and 70A. Besides, i know the pulse ratings on batteries are a lot higher but lets say you take 3 sec hits, surely your batteries/battery cells will get damaged right?
Absolute, lowest, safest build on a dual battery parallel box mech is 0.10 (30amp batteries) to 0.14ohms (20amp batteries), doesn't matter if you are running 30amp batteries or 20amp batteries, the further you get to absolute 0 ohms is dangerous. Pulse ratings, please, just please take those completely out of the equation, there is no set manufacturing standard of what time limit a pulse burst can have, some batteries that pulse is 1/2 second, others it might be 2 seconds, there is no standard to base calculations off safely. Another consideration is when using pulse, as more amps you ask of a battery the faster they heat up internally, every, and I mean every mod on the market as of this moment uses passive air cooling for batteries, to run a full pulse continually to keep heat down, you would need active cooling, just like on a computer processing CPU, using heat sinks on the batteries with active cooling fans, liquid, or cryo-cooling of some sort to keep the battery temps down, so wipe pulse ratings completely out of your mind. Reach internal temperatures around 100 to 120C regularly you cook the heck out of the internal chemicals and change the chemistry of them for the worse, decreasing their output and their life expectancy, reach about 200C, then you get a battery venting issue, reach 300C plus it is game over, full thermal runaway that can not be stopped, as at full thermal runaway the battery is literally on fire internally, and BOOM.
Don't know how many times I've argued this with, supposed battery experts, but pulse discharge means jack diddly shit in vaping, most people fire a device from 5 to 10 seconds, that is 4 1/2 to 8 seconds over and above the time a battery can stay at that discharge level safely.
Next issue is battery marriage is very, very, very important on a multi-battery mech of any sort, the batteries have to stay equal, if one battery lags behind the other, puts a lot of strain on either, the weak one trying to keep the strong one at full charge, or the strong one trying to compensate for the weaker one, thus bought together, used together, charged together, never breaking their matrimony together to stay safe.
Issue 3, all things ideal with a parallel configuration, in theory, parallel you should get voltage X 1 battery, mah X number of batteries, and CDR X number of batteries, in practice and for safety, I always suggest, think of the actual available CDR as this, Battery 1 = Full CDR of single battery, Battery 2 and subsequent batteries = +50% Full CDR, Example 2X Sony VTC5A's like you have, battery 1 = 25amps, Battery 2 = +12.5amps (50%) for a total of 37.5amps maximum, 3 Battery Parallel, Battery 1 = 25amps, Battery 2 = 12.5amps, Battery 3 = 12.5amps = 50amps total, etc.
Issue 4, this brings more context of some of these guidelines. Batteries get their max CDR from 2 other ratings, their Mah, printed on the label, and their actual Current Rating, or C rating.
Referencing ->
http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/what_is_the_c_rate
and
https://www.kritikalmass.net/battery-calculator/
Now, this comes together with the aging of a battery, a Li-Ion battery ages from the time it is put together, most reference age by full charge cycles (from 2.5v lowest to 4.2v full charge), and most this rating on average is about 200 to 300 full charge cycles the battery is toast afterward. As batteries age, their Mah decreases gradually each charge and discharge, with very gentle use you can get in that 200 to 300 charge cycle life expectancy (gentle meaning 50% max CDR at all times or lower), but each recharge knocks the Mah down a notch, giving roughly about a 12 to 18month full life expectancy, at that 12 to 18month mark the Mah is about 1/2 what it left the factory with, CDR is based off the Mah as one part, that rating decreased, the max CDR has also decreased. Under very, very heavy strain and stress (taking a battery to max CDR all the time) you have cooked the battery to death, literally, think about simmering a stew, that heat you build up blends all the stew components together into something else, heat is the biggest enemy of Li-Ion batteries, that constant heat under stress has very literally changed the internal chemistry of the battery and formed microscopic crystals in the electrolyte which increases the internal resistance of the battery, in this scenario, and speaking from experience with super-sub-ohm on mechs way back in my heyday, under such conditions my batteries never lasted beyond 30 to 60days with such abuse, they were literally at that 50% max ability by that time.
What you are wanting to do, and are suggesting is very, very dangerous. With mechs, the simpler the build the better, those fancy assed fused, alien, staggered claptons just will not work on any mech, to much wire mass to ramp up to temp to get a good vape, especially with only max 4.2v to play with a parallel box mod, twisted, parallel, and single core claptons can work, but basic round wire is the best. Keep your staggered build for your regulated mods. I do own a mech squonker box mod, an old fashioned Reo Grande single battery, one of my favorite mods to use for driving around, and it I run just a twisted 28awg single coil in a very old very small A7 Mini BF dripper, and it is a great, very flavorful combo only Ohming out at about 0.5ohms.
Be safe and really re-think what you are wanting to do with a mech squonker, they are not really good perfomers for super clouds.
Stay safe out there.