Mutation X v3 woes

[robot zombie]

Anybody feeling me on this?

Hear me out. I mostly love this atty. The airflow is perfect and so is the bore on the drip tip (though proprietary bores tend to annoy me to no end.) It's got a nice, deep drip well and a reasonably spacious deck/barrel. For a cheap atty, the machining and fit for all of the components is lovely.

So why, of all things, did they screw up the screws and screw holes so badly? They all have to be fouled or they will cut wire to hell. Forget building with 28g on the thing.

Even with the screws fouled, they still back out like nothing I've ever seen. Touch the coils and the screws give out. The holes for them are too deep, so there's always that extraordinarily delicate line between having your coils secure, and snapping them at the base because it's pulling that wire wayyy down in there before it's fully secure. And then you go to fix your coils just the littlest bit - just a little squeeze and whoops! It snapped.

The screws getting loose also causes another problem over time. The threads strip out. I can't tell you how many times I've changed them these past 3 months alone.

This also causes connection issues between the screws and the posts. I've noticed that all of my builds on this thing ohm cooler by .02-.03 ohms more than the same build will read on any other atty I've worked with.

I understand that it's a cheap atty, but screws have got to be the dumbest thing to skimp on. I've always felt like I couldn't recommend it simply for all of the headache it has caused me. I've never, on any other atty had to wrap 6 coils to make a dual.

Am I just going crazy here? Am I stupid? Or am I simply unlucky? All three?

 

[Zamazam]

When they designed this atty, they did so with cloud chasers in mind with the more exotic builds such as Claptons, twisted 26 gauge, and dual parallel coils with 24 gauge downwards. Yea, the screws are the weakest point in the atty. I replaced mine with SS hex screws and haven't had had an issue with connectivity or them cutting the wire. I tend to stone the Bottom of the screws to get rid of sharp edges on my RDA's. A simple $5 Arkansas stone pocket knife sharpener bought at a sporting goods store does the trick, and my Schaeffer Old Timer pocket knife is also razor sharp now.

 

[robot zombie]

I replaced mine with SS hex screws and haven't had had an issue with connectivity or them cutting the wire.

What length and diameter? I'm gonna have to pick some up. I hear good things about grub screws in general.

I score the stock screws off with a dremel and a pair of mechanix gloves. It helped, but even 24 and 22 gauge builds don't read quite right on it, though they at least stay secure. Maybe the hex screws are where it's at. The connectivity thing is pretty baffling to me.

 

[joeyboy]

Try 26 gauge kanthol. I haven't cut one yet, they don't loosen once retightened after the initial burn/clamp and works great. I used to use 28 but everyone told me to try 26. Now I do a 1.2 ohm single coil at 22.5 and get great flavor. The clouds are fine at 70 vg.

I would think dual coils would be more difficult to keep tight and easier to cut.

Of course, if subohm is all you are interested in this reply won't be of any interest. I don't sub. Tried it and didn't like it. My diy is made for my Temps not 0.3 at 100.

 

[joeyboy]

Also, my coils match my tester.

 

[zaroba]

Can get adapters to use 510 drip tips for the mutation x line from fast tech.
I hate those huge tips that the mutations come with.

 

[joeyboy]

Can get adapters to use 510 drip tips for the mutation x line from fast tech.
I hate those huge tips that the mutations come with.[/
I thought the mutations came with the adaptor?

I thought it came with ine.

 

[robot zombie]

Of course, if subohm is all you are interested in this reply won't be of any interest.

Yeah, .2-.3 is my happy place in the Mutation X 3. I always figured I might as well build a bit on the hot side since I have the airflow to accommodate it. I do build with 26g sometimes, though.

Also, my coils match my tester.

That's interesting to me because you build to much higher resistances than I do. I wonder if it's something that only comes into play when you get pretty far under an ohm. It makes me think maybe there's a point of resistance at the connection site that's closer to the resistance of what I'm building to than it is to virtually zero resistance. That, or maybe there's some leftover kanthal wedged wayy down in one of those post holes. It's possible with all of the wire I've broken in it.

I suppose it wouldn't matter either way at or around an ohm though. It's just that when you're trying to do a build that should be .20 and you're coming up at .23-.24, that's significant power loss.

I hate those huge tips that the mutations come with.

The new one is pretty absurd, but from what I can see, the mutation X v3's drip tip is just a mm or two wider than a 510.

I thought it came with ine.

Mine sure did.