BEST WAY TO FIX 510 stripped threads ON A MVP2
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mvp2 help
- Thread starter mikevape22
- Start date
Ugh innokin! My mates MVP stripped out this week too. My old VTR stripped within two months. I'd dismantle it and fit a new 510. I'm sure fatdaddys would have a 510 that would suit it. Failing that you could wedge an ego adapter in there with some of that electrical metal wire. I've forgotten what it's called and then screw to that.
I tell you once you get the thing apart I still am not sure how you are going to replace that 510 adapter. I have mine all apart at the moment to do some other work and soldering.
That 510 adapter is a mess. you have to pop out a silicone disc around the back side of the center pin to see anything, after desoldering the wire. Once the silicone plug is removed you can see the negative connection better. I have just taken a look at it, but not desoldered anything because mine is fine. Then there is a rivet going thru the pot metal casting into the center that I believe you will have to grind down with a dremel or drill out. only then can you try and figure out if it is screwed in or pressed in. Not made to be replaced very easily, if you can find something to take its place. It may be easier to take a 510 air adustment or an adapter that may screw into the ego threads and not got thru the trouble of taking the thing off may be easier.
my 2 Cents.
That 510 adapter is a mess. you have to pop out a silicone disc around the back side of the center pin to see anything, after desoldering the wire. Once the silicone plug is removed you can see the negative connection better. I have just taken a look at it, but not desoldered anything because mine is fine. Then there is a rivet going thru the pot metal casting into the center that I believe you will have to grind down with a dremel or drill out. only then can you try and figure out if it is screwed in or pressed in. Not made to be replaced very easily, if you can find something to take its place. It may be easier to take a 510 air adustment or an adapter that may screw into the ego threads and not got thru the trouble of taking the thing off may be easier.
my 2 Cents.
By the way I am not sure how you are stripping these so easily? Do not tighten so much just enough to make contact or you will push the pin and gasket out the back side on some devices. Use the outer ring on the mvp2 to hold things stable if you have to.
Damn it! I just stripped the first few threads on mine this morning. Sounds like it gonna be a pain in the ass to fix if it's even fixable.
My Russian was only threaded into a few threads and it got knocked over and must have hit something and it just tore out the first couple of threads. I can still thread down to the bottom threads but because I'm having to use the o-ring trick to keep the pin up it means that all my attys are a tight fit now and that seems like it will only put more ware and tare on the remaining threads.
aarrrgggg!!!
My Russian was only threaded into a few threads and it got knocked over and must have hit something and it just tore out the first couple of threads. I can still thread down to the bottom threads but because I'm having to use the o-ring trick to keep the pin up it means that all my attys are a tight fit now and that seems like it will only put more ware and tare on the remaining threads.
aarrrgggg!!!
A very easy fix is to get an eGo to eGo adapter. They connect via the eGo threading so it doesn't matter if the 510 is stripped. No work, no dismantling, no hassle. Just add the adapter and you will be able to use both 510 and eGo attys. If you use one fo each MVP you have it will protect the original threading. If anything gets damaged it will only be the adapter. You can also use a tank airflow controller for mods like the Vamo to protect the threading on it. If you remove the airflow ring it has eGo threading, too. Hope this helps guys.
Thanks! They're hard to find as almost no vendors carry them. I use them on both of my MVPs even though the threading is fine. If a little bit of juice gets in the connection it's far easier to just rinse out the adapter. They have a lot of benefits.
found one ty 
Calcilculcelcol
Member For 4 Years
where did you got that ? i need one for my mvp thanks
It must be the cheap pot metal castings they are using. I didnt know there was that much of a problem with these things. I dont use mine that often.
I posted a link to that adapter in post #9. Here it is again. It's a high quality one. To protect 510 mods I recommend this one, this one. or this one depending on what style you need for a given setup, eGo requirement or look.
Calcilculcelcol
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Got it Thanks
Those are fine but not useful on an MVP with a striped out 510. That was what the original post was asking to fix. A 510-to-eGo adapter wouldn't thread but the eGo-to-Ego works without using the OP's damaged 510 threads. I also like using an adapter on my 510 only mods but I usually go with the Tank Airflow Controller.
UncleRJ
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Had head firmly up rear and missed the point.
Need more drugs!
But also thinking that replacing my 510/eGo with an eGo/eGo will also achieve my goal and take up less space?
UncleRJ
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Vamos are also notorious for having soft threads.
Clone or not, while I cannot remember the names of the other devices, soft connectors may not be something isolated to the MVP?
Hahaha! love it!
It may give you a bit more space but it would be minimal. The advantage of an eGo-eGo adapter is stability. It's a firmer connection. It also allows you to use a beauty ring if you need it for a better look and again, more stability of the atty. 510-510 adapters are useful but can make a mod look odd. Tank Airflow Controllers are generally never used for airflow control. They're used as much nicer looking 510-510 adapter. They serve the same purpose as a 510-510 but allow for a flush mount in most cases.
You're 100% right about the Vamo. I use a tank airflow controller on my Vamo because I know better than to trust the plated brass 510. The only problem is some people have to sand the controller's male 510 connector to get a flush mount on the Vamo but it's a once and done project. Once you get it mounted properly you never really remove it except to clean it if you have a flood. I hate finding drops of juice at the bottom of my 510 so I retired all of my leak happy Evods and put sealed Aerotank bases on all of my Protanks. That and the RTAs solved that annoyance. They really do make a solution to just about everything. lol
My first VTR threads stripped out in 2 months and has sat on the shelf ever since. So I've bought some steel based epoxy putty which I filled the thread with yesterday. I'm giving it a 24hrs to cure. I'm going to retap it today and see if it still makes a connection. It should do as the putty is very magnetic. I didn't like adding the 510 ego extension or airflow controller. I think this steel based putty is the solution to stripped threads, so long as you have a tap to rethread it of course.
kelli
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i have had 3 MVP's for over a year and never stripped any threads yet (knock on wood). i suspect maybe guys don't have the finesse and delicate touch needed to handle such fragile equipment.
Loving my MVP, dropped it getting into the car last thursday and stripped the threads a bit on the 510 connection. I have been babying it all weekend while searching for a fix and I believe this thread has given me the cure. I want to get the Tank Airflow controller but they don't take paypal, so gonna have to wait till next friday to order. Thank you CorallineAlgae
See if you can source one of these. They're kinda made for it:
EGO to EGO 510 Atomizer Adapter
http://tiny.cc/iqwlix
EGO to EGO 510 Atomizer Adapter
http://tiny.cc/iqwlix
VapingJunkie
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To add onto this reply/answer, you should also find and acquire some thin copper tape. Wrap the eGo-to-510 adapter before you throw it on the MVP, then just attach all your atties onto it. Depending on what kind of system you're using, you may want to find a beauty ring to help complete the look. Vape on!A very easy fix is to get an eGo to eGo adapter. They connect via the eGo threading so it doesn't matter if the 510 is stripped. No work, no dismantling, no hassle. Just add the adapter and you will be able to use both 510 and eGo attys. If you use one fo each MVP you have it will protect the original threading. If anything gets damaged it will only be the adapter. You can also use a tank airflow controller for mods like the Vamo to protect the threading on it. If you remove the airflow ring it has eGo threading, too. Hope this helps guys.
Edit: The eGo adapter I bought has slightly-askew eGo threads, but the 510 threads are fine. Mine came from Fasttech, if you're looking for a vendor to avoid. LoL
I put in stock links to that item in post 9 and post 18 of this thread already. Have one on both of my MVPs.
Ah I see. What happens sometimes during a thread in forums is that someone's reply occasionally gets overlooked. How I missed it I really don't know. All I can do is apologise. Having reread the post I see that you were indeed the first to post the link.
Not a problem. I've done the same exact thing myself.
Those connectors can be hard to find.
Thank you so much. I will give it a go!! Thanks for extending all my MVP's that this has happened to
slayer420-x
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I have a mvp2 & nautilus. Hope i dont get this. Whats happends if its threads strip, & how do i avoid this? Just dont tighten my nautilus so far till it wont move? Ive been gettin her pretty tight on there
slayer420-x
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Thanks. at first i always tightened everything real tight till it would go anymore, once i started tightening the upper n bottom hardware just snug, just enough till i feel resistance, ive noticed more vapor, musta been to vacum sealed before.
What is connected on top?This is how you fix an MVP connector.
How much do they run about ? Cause I need 6 of them
Just remember they are a bitch to add onto the MVP2. you need to do some dremel work on the back side to fit the fatdaddy adapter in. you can either use the nut supplied after or use some JBweld to epoxy it into place.
as you can see they do a nice job when done. At the same time I ground the on/off pin down on the bottom so the unit will sit flat.