New player in the game, help.

[Displayd]

Hey, what's up guys. So, when I eventually get enough money put together, I want to build a mod.
I've already picked out my atty and mod. Everything after that is almost a mystery.
Here's what I know:
I want to build a stealth mod with...
A 510 whistle drip tip
Authentic Thump atty
Authentic Calvert mod
(preferably same silver metal color)

1 18350 battery (idk what brand)
Juice
Some kind of cotton

Here's what I don't know...
Coil building
Ohm law
How not to have it blow up when I'm vaping (important ⬆)
Oh, and it has to be under $300

Any advice would be apriciated.

 

[State O' Flux]

Because of the limited amperage continuous and pulse discharge potential of a 350 battery, you are limited on the net resistance value... around 0.5Ω ~ 0.6Ω. Know as well that at those resistance values, you'll discharge a 350 battery very quickly... but, if you want "stealth" with a single battery tube mech, then that's the situation you'll have to deal with.

A bit of Ohm's law you will be relying on...

Without independent regulation, a battery will discharge wattage/amperage at a rate determined by net resistance and voltage.

• For wattage ("Power") the formula is V² ÷ Ω = P.
• For amperage ("Current") the formula is V ÷ Ω = C.

The calculated wattage doesn't care about your wire gauge or coils in parallel count... just the net resistance and battery voltage.

Heat flux is the coil(s) radiant heat, expressed in milliwatts per millimeter of coil surface area... squared. For our purposes... it's simply how warm you perceive your vape to be.

Heat flux does care about the wire gauge (AKA wire surface area & mass), coils in parallel count and net resistance, and is directly affected by them, both together and independently.

As to the remainder... click on all the sigline hyperlinks below and start reading. The Steam Engine coil modeling program, as well as the other elements of Steam Engine will be your best friend, once you understand how it works.

 

[Displayd]

Thanks for the quick reply. To sum up, you're saying a small battery will go out more quickly, and produce less smoke then most people prefer. (this is fine, I'll just buy an extra battery or two)

Secondly. Without relying on a ohm meter (like on a box mod) coils should provide the resistance you'll need to stop you from overloading your battery? And I should use a meter/ohm reader for more safety? (I won't be doing complex coiling at all on it, just a 4-5 wrap around a tiny screw driver/jig)

Third. Idk, but thanks. I'll check out those links.

 

[State O' Flux]

1. Yes.
2. Don't build anything without at least a good build box/ohm meter (and preferably, a good DMM as well) to verify your resistance. This isn't a suggestion... for your own safety, this is a requirement. As an example, I refuse to offer build recommendations to anyone that doesn't have an ohmmeter... and below around 0.3Ω, no recommendations if they don't have a damn good ohmmeter.

3. Using mechs requires you to have a decent understanding of many things. To follow blindly the suggestions of anyone who can't absolutely explain every aspect of their suggestion... is to invite personal injury.

Advanced vaping is great stuff... but not BBQ'ing your hand or face is far greater stuff.

 

[Displayd]

So if I have a meter that has a resistance on itself, can I subtract that from the outcome resistance on the build?

 

[OBDave]

Thanks for the quick reply. To sum up, you're saying a small battery will go out more quickly, and produce less smoke then most people prefer. (this is fine, I'll just buy an extra battery or two)

Secondly. Without relying on a ohm meter (like on a box mod) coils should provide the resistance you'll need to stop you from overloading your battery? And I should use a meter/ohm reader for more safety? (I won't be doing complex coiling at all on it, just a 4-5 wrap around a tiny screw driver/jig)

Third. Idk, but thanks. I'll check out those links.

Depending on what wire, how many wraps, and the size of the screwdriver this "simple" coil could actually be quite dangerous if your battery can't release power quickly enough to satisfy it. Since 350 batteries generally have much lower discharge rates than the 650s recommended for vaping, it's more likely you'll build a coil your battery can't handle, causing it to overheat when you demand more power than it can supply. This is what causes fires, venting, and explosions.

Please, take SoF's advice and learn what you're doing before attempting to build. Also YOU NEED TO HAVE A MEANS OF CHECKING YOUR COIL'S RESISTANCE BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO FIRE IT. This is not optional.

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

 

[OBDave]

So if I have a meter that has a resistance on itself, can I subtract that from the outcome resistance on the build?

What kind of meter are we talking about here?

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

 

[State O' Flux]

So if I have a meter that has a resistance on itself, can I subtract that from the outcome resistance on the build?

Yes... you deduct a DMMs internal resistance from the displayed resistance. If you have a DMM - good (great for checking mod conductivity), but a DMM for vaping should have a "min/max" button that you can use to average your resistance.

Again, below 0.3Ω, you really need a top shelf build box/ohm meter. I have no idea if you intend to go that low... but amperage discharge increases rapidly below that value, and to be in error, even by 0.05Ω, can invite disaster.

 

[Displayd]

What kind of meter are we talking about here?

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone

Something like this:
http://cdn.instructables.com/FNP/VG9V/H4AGJ02G/FNPVG9VH4AGJ02G.LARGE.jpg

Or

http://www.amazon.com/510-808-Resistance-Reader-Meter/dp/B00KY45S3Q

 

[Displayd]

So... Building with a 18350 battery is either pointless or too difficult a build? Sure, the vapor output is less and the battery will go out faster. Does that mean in seconds, minutes, or a few hours? The rate at which I would vape on average would be 10 hits per hour, or so. And would building a smaller coil or building with thinner coils not overload the battery? I'm not a cloud chaser, I'm more of a flavor chaser.

 

[State O' Flux]

So... Building with a 18350 battery is either pointless or too difficult a build?
No... but I seldom create a stealth vape with an 1835 lower than around 0.8Ω... and I carry a few spare batteries and juice (for an RTA) if I'm going to be out all day.

Sure, the vapor output is less and the battery will go out faster. Does that mean in seconds, minutes, or a few hours?
If you refer to this Steam Engine link... you can calculate battery discharge in time.

The rate at which I would vape on average would be 10 hits per hour, or so. And would building a smaller coil or building with thinner coils not overload the battery? I'm not a cloud chaser, I'm more of a flavor chaser.

Coil "size" (mandrel ID used, or number of wraps) has no bearing on resistance... only the gauge and length of wire, terminal to terminal determine resistance per wire.

This is the last post for me... start reading. If you have specific questions about anything you read... PM me.

Cheers

 

[Displayd]

K thanks. Now I wonder if I should get a clone or authentic...

 

[kennjbroas]

Hey, what's up guys. So, when I eventually get enough money put together, I want to build a mod.
I've already picked out my atty and mod. Everything after that is almost a mystery.
Here's what I know:
I want to build a stealth mod with...
A 510 whistle drip tip
Authentic Thump atty
Authentic Calvert mod
(preferably same silver metal color)

1 18350 battery (idk what brand)
Juice
Some kind of cotton

Here's what I don't know...
Coil building
Ohm law
How not to have it blow up when I'm vaping (important )
Oh, and it has to be under $300

Any advice would be apriciated.

Is this your first? My strong suggestion..

Dont go for a buildable yet.. Trust me on this.

I strongly recommend to reach for a starter kit first. Either the kangertech subox mini or the joyetech evic VT.

Reasons why?
When I first started, I hopped onto the joyetech kit which was fine, 2 weeks later I ended up with a subtank mini.

Knowing shit all i had troubles with the subtanks, leaking here, why coils were burning quickly, and why this happend and so on..

You wouldnt wanna jump onto the higher end vape just cause.. You dont want anything happening on a $300 mod

Learn everything first.. Watch youtube videos and get you hands on learning..

.. But if this is NOT your first then delete this comment.

Other then that, you aint gotta listen to me lol. If you need questions just hit me up

 

[kennjbroas]

Or if you got any friends who vapes at all who can help you out thats sick too, or just go to your closest vape shop and let them show you everything you need to know..

 

[Displayd]

This is my first vape ever: https://www.njoy.com/vaping/vaping-kits/economy-vaping-kit/00 I had trouble with leaks. I do have a vape shop close by, and I have a friend that vapes, but doesn't know too much about coil builds. He just makes the same coil over and over. But that's a good idea.

 

[Whiskey]

Moved to new builders area