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new to cloud chasing need help choosing gear

ok so first off this will be my first time getting gear together, that being said, im going for the safest setup for a beginner and cheap as well, ive never really built my own coils but ive researched plenty, i will definetly be getting an ohm meter if one is not built into my mod, i would like a mod that will take an RDA but also have the option of a decent RBA, im looking for a setup that would allow for a cool vapor if possible
my vaping experience is essentialy limited to what the store has sold me, and is now broken (froze in the car at -40c lol

i was looking at the itaste mvp 2.0 and mutation x v3 but im not sure they go together....
the reason is it has a safety built into it that wont allow too low of a resistence... wich im assuming is a good idea for my first setup,

anyways im looking for sugestions, im not planning on doing this for competition, just my own personaly fun, i like the building aspect of it and i already know i like vaping, even if i do it without nicoteen, there is a vaping store nearby but mods are over price so buying off the net is a better option for me, how ever juices are decently priced there

trying to get into it on a budget but dont wanna sacrifice safety, i know most of the safety factor comes from a good battery and lack of research is not something that will be missing on my end, i will be looking up any and EVERY thing... this is just me getting into it
 

UncleRJ

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Well, you have come to the right place!

What is your budget.............Total for a mod, batteries, charger (if needed depending on the mod) RDA, RBA and all except E-liquid which will be an ongoing expense?

The more we know the more we can help:D
 
well i was told i could get some decent gear or around 80$ but then again... im not sure, my real problem is matching the gear up so they will effectively work together i guess. RBA can wait till later as im not a nicotine vapor so im pretty much in to just the clouds:D, i guess im hoping to go for under 100$ if its possible... obviously the lower the better ;)
we can probably count E-liquids out since i should be able to get them localy here and probably at a better price without shipping


doing a bit more looking now.... looks like i can get the tugboat V2 RDA for bout 30$ (real one) and the Xpro M80 for around 55$

am i getting anywhere?
 
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KKen

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You can essentially cloud chase off an old protank with rebuilt heads if you wanted to, main thing comes down to the build. The best RDA and device with a sub-par build will never be as good as a super janky Fastech RDA powered off a cheap mechanical mod if the coil and wicks are done just right.

That said, start with any RDA w/ adjustable airflow. That will give you options that you can fine tune to your style of vaping. Helps if you can find one with a reduced chamber too so you can get maximum flavor as well.

As for a regulated device, try to get something with at least 30 watts. You may never use that much, but nice to have it and not need it, rather than wanting more power and not having it available for you when you do. Hope that helps!
 
yeh the way im starting to think it is, i should look into getting a half decent mod and w\e RDA to start with, and with use ill find out wich rda i want and need acording to my style of vaping.... so after looking at multiple variable mod i was going to pick up the Xpro m80 but everywhere i look its sold out now..... and im pretty decided on it.... 4000Mah from 6-80watts with temp control, and can handle built from .1 to 3.0ohms... ive yet to find one that sounds as good..... especialy for the price (59$)
 
so i just picked up a used plume veil for 35$ (real) from a buddy of mine still had the box and everything..... im looking at picking up a
Eleaf-istick 50W variable mod.... they are around 55$ at my local vaping store and it comes with the battery built in, has battery temperature safety and wont fire under .2ohm and is good up to 5ohm..... im thinking this might be my best deal since there is no shipping and i can pick up some juice at the same time ;) only thing is its not currently in stock so i have to wait a bit :\ buddy is giving me some kenthal + cotton with the plume too. he was gunna give me some coils already made but i told him it didint interest me and i really wanted to make them myself
with this be ok together?

1 more question.... when it comes to mechanical mods.... what dictates your ohms range that you can make you coils? is it just the battery inside? so if i put a VCT5 in it i should be able to do pretty much anything? i think this is what is detering me from using a mechanical mod
 

vaping_jake

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mech mod is purely unregulated...this means you get the total current the battery is able to push out. It also means there is no protection against a short and can blow up on you. any ohms can be used, the question is can it be safe.
 
yeh that what i figured.... i think ill stick to variable mods with protection on them till i know a little more about the mechanical mods, or the batteries that go in them.... im starting to notice that there are alot of "fakes" or reproduced batteries as well, just typing in VTC5 bring up a bunch and you constantly looking for the word "genuine" but on average a VCT5 is safe for what range?

for now ill stick to a battery that will essentialy tell me im doing something stupid and not allow me to do it lol but ill prob move into mechanicals at some point due to price... but for now i think im good
 

Robert B

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A good quality mech mod, good quality atty, some japanese cotton, some 26gauge A1 kanthal, a good quality ohm reader, LG he2 or 4's, Samsung 25r's, Sony VTC4's, don't build any lower than .3 ohms, and your good to go.

and this set of calculators is Very helpful

Don't bother with the vtc5's. They are pretty much all fakes now.
 

vaping_jake

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i agree Robert B. Just curious why you draw the line at 0.3 Ohms.
 

Robert B

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i agree Robert B. Just curious why you draw the line at 0.3 Ohms.
Not really drawing the line, but for someone who knows enough that he should be careful, but doesn't know anything about the equipment or concepts yet, figured it a good rule of thumb until he knows whats going on. Drawing 12a with a nominal voltage of 3.7 is well within the range of a good quality battery. How many times have we seen on this forum where a newbee buys equipment at a store, the idiot at the store builds him a .05 set of coils, and he's wondering why his wicks are catching on fire?

The calculator is an invaluable resource giving you "what if" scenarios before building anything.
It all comes down to just my opinion, and info I would try to pass on to someone starting out.
 
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yah i get it... its cool, i ended up ordering the Istick 50w battery wich will allow me down to 0.2 for now
and im not sure i could personaly handle the heat from a .05 ;) lol its going to be a while im assuming till i start dipping below the .2's seems like all the coils i would like to build are between .2 and .4 ..... im hearing alot of good things about the VCT5's that why i keep bringing them up so im probably gunna pick up a pair of those when ever i decide to jump into mechanicals in total though my gear cost me a total of 85$, granted i got lucky with the RDA price wise

i like the looks of a mechanical though, but it will be nice having a 4400mah battery with safety features lol who knows might like it so much that i just end up sticking to Variables...should receive my gear beginning of next week with a small bottle of "redbull" flavoured ejuice... wich i tried and really like
 

R3alJim Shady

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Note that you may have to go down from your normal nic level in your juice. More vapor means more nicotine in one shot. I dropped from 12ml in my Kayfun to needing 6ml on my RDA's right off the bat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Robert B

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Don't bother with the VTC5's. You won't find any authentics. Sony hasn't been making them for quite some time now. LG & Samsung batteries work just as well as long as you stay within the 20amp range which is easy to do.
 

BigNasty

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Not really drawing the line, but for someone who knows enough that he should be careful, but doesn't know anything about the equipment or concepts yet, figured it a good rule of thumb until he knows whats going on. Drawing 12a with a nominal voltage of 3.7 is well within the range of a good quality battery. How many times have we seen on this forum where a newbee buys equipment at a store, the idiot at the store builds him a .05 set of coils, and he's wondering why his wicks are catching on fire?

The calculator is an invaluable resource giving you "what if" scenarios before building anything.
It all comes down to just my opinion, and info I would try to pass on to someone starting out.
This.
With the right atty .3 is over the top in production starting out.
 
Don't bother with the VTC5's. You won't find any authentics. Sony hasn't been making them for quite some time now. LG & Samsung batteries work just as well as long as you stay within the 20amp range which is easy to do.
oh crap i didint know that......
 

Robert B

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oh crap i didint know that......
This all happened in 2011. Why they never started producing them again, only Sony knows


* Manufacturing Operations Suspended due to the Earthquake, Tsunami and Related Power Outages *

While manufacturing operations at the following manufacturing sites remain suspended, the Company has begun inspection, restoration and repair of affected buildings and manufacturing equipment:
  • Sony Chemical & Information Device Corporation
    - Tagajyo Plant (Miyagi Prefecture) <Magnetic tapes, Blu-ray discs, etc.>
    - Tome Plant, Nakada/Toyosato Sites (Miyagi Prefecture) <Optical devices, IC cards, etc.>
  • Sony Shiroishi Semiconductor Inc. (Miyagi Prefecture) <Semiconductor lasers.>
  • Sony Energy Devices Corporation, Koriyama Plant (Fukushima Prefecture) <Lithium ion secondary batteries, etc.>
  • Sony Energy Devices Corporation, Motomiya Plant (Fukushima Prefecture) <Lithium ion secondary batteries, etc.>
  • Sony DADC Japan Inc., Ibaraki Facility (Ibaraki Prefecture) <CDs, DVDs, etc.>
 
so for my first build i made a dual parallel coil wrapped around this little blue screw driver that came with it and my battery says it is running at 0.8ohms, ill be picking up so organic cotton some time this week end along with some better Kanthal since my buddy wasnt able to spare any
i've already bumped it all the way up to 50W a couple of time and i get huge clouds lol i love it, got a couple of dry hits and learned fast that too much is better than not enough lol
 
I have just started getting big into the vape world. I went from a Tsunami ego starter kit for a while and just upgraded to an X6 Power Stick 1300 mAh and getting ready to buy an aspire nautilus mini tank for it. I would like to get into mechanical mods and RDAs next. I want to chuck some clouds. I don't exactly have a whole lot of money to spend on this and buying piece at a time. I am wondering what are some good mechanical mods to start with or to look into. Is there some decent clones to look into? Again, money is a factor for me. Please help in the right direction. Thank you
 

Panther1911

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I have just started getting big into the vape world. I went from a Tsunami ego starter kit for a while and just upgraded to an X6 Power Stick 1300 mAh and getting ready to buy an aspire nautilus mini tank for it. I would like to get into mechanical mods and RDAs next. I want to chuck some clouds. I don't exactly have a whole lot of money to spend on this and buying piece at a time. I am wondering what are some good mechanical mods to start with or to look into. Is there some decent clones to look into? Again, money is a factor for me. Please help in the right direction. Thank you

A decent mechanical mod (clone) can be had for less than $30, a decent RDA can be had for less than $20 for a clone, or some authentics are less than $40. Good batteries are $10-12ea (good batteries are a must) an ohm reader is less than $20, a charger is $30-40. You can get a spool of 26ga kanthal for around $6.
 

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