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Nickel wire building....need help

hi guys

I have just bought an IPV4 and wanted to try out the temp control function I have ni200 wire in a billow v2 but can't seem to get it working properly. I have 28awg wire and some 29awg wire on its way.
I have tried lots of tight wraps and separated wraps and coils with only a few wraps and I'm lost, really need some help getting it right. When I think I have it working well all of a sudden the screen displays 'dry wick no liquid' when my tank is full?!
I am 100% sure it is something I am doing wrong!!
Any hints and tips would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Rob
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have got a dry wick warning from my sx mini a couple times and snugging up the screws fixed it both times.

Try building the coil and wick, soak wick, fire a few times, check screws. Fire more times, drip juice on wick, fire more times till you feel confident when you put the tank on it will remain the same. Test it again after you put the chimney on but before you fill the tank.

I wrapped dual coils for my orchid spaced 8 wrap of 28g on a 2.5 rod to get 0.068 ohms. Not sure what resistance your mod wants you to be at, mine wants a 0.065 coil.

Also a side note... the tempered wire is easier to work with. Got mine from lightening vapes, free shipping.
 
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Thanks for the reply, I have managed to crack it I think, 14 dual spaced wraps, I think the screws could of been tighter but I was worried about snapping the nickel wire In them before, it's so fragile!! although the ohms aren't as low as I would like was aiming for 0.05-0.1 somewhere and I still get a bit of a burn off the cotton if I go above 220celcius.
 
My new 29 gauge wire I now have is tempered although I haven't played around with it yet, girlfriend goes nuts if I fiddle with coiling too much!!
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yeah, there is a fine line between tight enough and broken wire.
If you sand the sharp machined edge off the bottom of the screws a bit they wont cut as easily.

I vape from 310°F to 380°F, 310 in my orchid and my massive air flow CLT can run up to 380 so maybe try a little lower temp? Seems like most run 400°F and up so I guess I am the minority but that's just what I've found to be my sweet spot with my aty's.

Have you tried 160 to 180° C range?
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Looks like lowest resistance for ipv4 is 0.1 ohms? You may need to go to 30g to hit that target and still fit the coil inside the chamber. Trial & error I guess ;)
 
That's a good plan, I watched a rip tripper vid about it and he suggests plug screws...?! It goes to 0.05 using temp control. I have found the sweet spot at 200degrees and 40joules, doesn't heat up too quickly and can catch it before the burn, may be poor cotton to be honest, it came free with my lemo v2.
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Not familiar with plug screws but maybe they have a rounded, not sharp edge square bottom? Get a piece of 300 grit or higher paper and make your own :)

Grab some Japanese cotton pads, most likely superior to what came with the aty. Or cellucotton rayon, one of my favorite wick materials

Every one's different, I run 25j to 35j depending on the atty and wire. 25j for 28g in orchid and freakshow mini (thinner wire, faster heat up... smaller chamber and less air flow) and 35j for 26g in my cloud rda (thicker wire, slower heat up... bigger chamber, more air flow).

I've only had this tc mod for a couple weeks so I am just getting familiar with it but it seems to vape better running lower joules with the thinner wire and higher j with the thicker wires. Temps are not much different, but power is very different percentage wise.

At least that's how I am getting the best vape for me... for now
 
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montijo505

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My favorite build is twisted 28G nickel, single coil 8 wrap is like .13ish


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The plug screws in essence are just a the same sort of thing you would control a kayfun airflow with but alan key fitting on top. Cheers for the advice tho, seems like there isnt much flying round google yet about nickel builds. As for the twisted, do you buy it twisted or DIY, wanna give it a go but no idea where to start? And also how would you work out the ohms it wouldproduce or is it guess work?
 

fq06

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ah, grub screws. No different to Phillips head screws at the base but I do prefer allen head to phillips. I sand the base of all of my post screws, allen or phillips.

Put two strands of wire together and chuck them in a drill bit. Put the other end in a vise or something to hold it and pull the trigger. Get it tight and you have twisted wire.

Not a fan of twisted myself, but if you want to reduce wire resistance because you dont have a lower resistance wire... twist it.

Guess work as far as I know. Just throw a 8 wrap on it and see what that gets ya and adjust from there.
 

montijo505

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The plug screws in essence are just a the same sort of thing you would control a kayfun airflow with but alan key fitting on top. Cheers for the advice tho, seems like there isnt much flying round google yet about nickel builds. As for the twisted, do you buy it twisted or DIY, wanna give it a go but no idea where to start? And also how would you work out the ohms it wouldproduce or is it guess work?
I just twist it up with a drill. Cut one long stand fold in half, stick one end in the drill chuck and hold the other with pliers. Twist until it breaks off on one end. The ohms are guesswork, like I said for me with a 3mm I.D. 8 wraps comes to between .12-.14 every time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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