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Andrew M

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just stuck my brass m16 in and thus begins a very long wait, will post back with results even if they suck (maybe you can tell me what im doing wrong if it gets messed up)
 

Celtic Fog

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just wanted to let you builders know, we have around 500' of 3/4" and 1" copper type K pipe that has been sitting outside for over 10 years, my mom was going to take it and recycle it, but I told her to hold off and asked my brother if he would cut some of it down into 12" section, once he lets me know he did it, ill let you guys know, you can send a PM to me and ill let you know when I get my hands on it, I'd be happy to send some out to you guys for building. Moms said it was green and a deep purple/red already, Im guessing I'll get my hands on at least 20' of each size.
 

Andrew M

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so i put my brass m16 into the tupperware container with ammonia (the lemon kind like a previous person had posted from walmart because it was all i could get my hands on) and salt and i am about 21 or so hours in and honestly it doesn't look that much different.... how long should i realistically expect to wait for my mod to patina?
 

robtest

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iirc, brass doesn't take patina quite as well as copper... my copper experiments actually looked a little more colorful after I pulled them out of the bath, washed them and let them dry a bit... I would think 21+ hours is enough for it to do what it was gonna do...
 

Andrew M

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Well ive heard people say that ot takes 30+ hours and then ive heard people say what youve said, im a little confused so im probably just gonna leave it in there for a bit longer and see how it turns out
 

dreadymark

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I've seen it range from 2 hours to 2 days. Depends on the chemicals, metal, temp, desired look, etc.
 

Andrew M

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I want this,
Maybe im just not doing it right
 

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Walter Ego

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I did my M-16 at the same time I did the REO door in post #95, it didn't come out near as well as the brass door but it looks better than it ever has. I sanded to fresh metal then fumed it for 5 hours with ammonia and sea salt, resprayed every hour and resalted every other hour.
M-16.jpg

Andrew you can always sand off what you have now and try again.
 

Andrew M

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I did my M-16 at the same time I did the REO door in post #95, it didn't come out near as well as the brass door but it looks better than it ever has. I sanded to fresh metal then fumed it for 5 hours with ammonia and sea salt, resprayed every hour and resalted every other hour.
View attachment 5358

Andrew you can always sand off what you have now and try again.
that only took you five hours? maybe its the ammonia im using or something, damn.....
 

Andrew M

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yeah im going to have to find a place that actually stocks real ammonia or something
 

Walter Ego

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yeah im going to have to find a place that actually stocks real ammonia or something


I got mine at Walmart, without lemon. I think sanding to expose fresh metal then cleaning to get oils off helped mine, also I wore gloves so I didn't contaminate the brass with the oil from my hands. It seems that the brass in my Reo door is better quality than in the M-16 as the door came out much better.
 

Andrew M

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i went to walmart and they had only the lemon kind so i went to dollar general and they actually had some...go figure right?
anyways i sanded it back down to bare metal and im doing the whole process over again with the right ammonia this time, ill keep yall updated
 

robtest

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I really like Robert McCoy's method of mixing the salt and the ammonia and just spraying that on the mod...




Of course, if all else fails you can always cheat... :cool:

uni_patina_good_zpsbf41f887.jpg
 

Gonzi

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IMG_1725 (Large).JPG
3 more I just finished for a local vape shop
IMG_1726 (Large).JPG
1 that I did for a budy of mine

I desolve salt in my ammonia spray as well, it does great at starting things out. I don't like to put any salt on the mod till after about 15 minutes. What I do is mist the mod with the salty ammonia, hanging in the fuming box over a paper towel damp with ammonia, and close it for about 10-15 minutes. After it started forming a patina, then I re-mist and sprinkle the salt on.
 

Andrew M

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View attachment 5404
3 more I just finished for a local vape shop
View attachment 5405
1 that I did for a budy of mine

I desolve salt in my ammonia spray as well, it does great at starting things out. I don't like to put any salt on the mod till after about 15 minutes. What I do is mist the mod with the salty ammonia, hanging in the fuming box over a paper towel damp with ammonia, and close it for about 10-15 minutes. After it started forming a patina, then I re-mist and sprinkle the salt on.
wow! those look amazing! i really like how you taped it off to get that X look! thats some really cool stuff,
i actually just took a look at my mod strung up in the container, im going to let it go for a little bit longer but it looks pretty nice as it is! and i owe it all to you guys, thanks for saving my mod.
will update with clear coated pictures later tonight.
 

MKPM

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.
 
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Andrew M

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i accomplished PATINA!
it really was the lemon ammonia that was hindering my m16 from popping its forced patina cherry.
it may not be as professional looking as the other posters here (by the way you guys are brilliant fucking artists!)
here it is with a couple coats of clear20140910_162649 (1).jpg
 

InMyImage

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Have to say that the patina's and designs you are all getting is incredible. Makes me want to start dipping my toes into the world of mods.

Something that some of you may be interested in is Sculpt Nouveau Patinas and Metal Finishes. They are big in the metal artist market, and also have a youtube channel demonstrating how to use their patinas.

Bill
 

Andrew M

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Well here she is final finished product,
Im pretty happy about the outcome, what do yall think? View attachment 5482
 

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robtest

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I thought that looked familiar. .. I am using that on a box mod paintjob I am doing... bright base colors... tape it... paint with black... pull off tape and clear coat... :D
 

Gonzi

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I guess the Akuma snuck in there, I already sold that one.
 

Celtic Fog

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here is my first attempt, its a vanilla clone and part of my plume veil clone, used ammonia and salt method. Then did a little painting on the accents with red acrylic model paint, clear coated and loving it. Doing the 18350 body today with mustard.20141112_172515.jpg20141112_173726.jpg
 
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MrScaryZ

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here is my first attempt, its a vanilla clone and part of my plume veil clone, used ammonia and salt method. Then did a little painting on the accents with red acrylic model paint, clear coated and loving it. Doing the 18500 body today with mustard.View attachment 8782View attachment 8783
KInda looks like a rotten candy cane I like it.. I have been meaning to try a patina I think you have nailed it
 

Celtic Fog

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i found out how to make the blues take over, so i just ordered a 8 oz bottle of liver of sulfer, first you dip it in the sulfur to make it blackened then you do the salt and ammonia technique, get major blues and really fast.
 

Andrew M

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So im doing my brass king v3 clone today, woke up this morning and it was almost done so here is my question,
I messed up the clearcoat on my m16 because its really a fragile finish, meaning it scratches easily, so what should I do differently with the clearcoat this time?
How do yall do yours?
 

dreadymark

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Thin coats, 15-20 minutes apart, every 3 coats let it dry overnight, then repeat.


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dreadymark

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At least, I sometimes do more if the patina gas a lot of relief to it


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InMyImage

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T

Taver13

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here is my brass turtleship v3 special edition, all nice and patina like. still needs a good wetsanding and polish after the 6 coats of clear i did, but im diggin it. got my copper 4nine and my copper smpl in chambers as we speak!
2015-01-02 19.49.52.jpg
 

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