Quad coil build <Help Needed>

[Mario Camacho]

I got my hands on some 26 gauge kenthal, and I've been experimenting with it. I made some twisted kenthal wires and managed to build a stable dual coil.

I got a new RDA that doesn't need me to tighten the wire around the negative/positive post screws, it's just a "stick in the negative/positive screw hole and tighten" type that we all love.

I have a Sony 18650V4 battery

---- QUESTION PART ----

Is this even in gods name possible, I got my twisted 26guage kenthal wires and did a 5 wrap and set it up quad coil. I don't have an ohm reader, would this even be safe or possible, I am yet to try it with a full battery, but on a low battery, it just made the coils hot(not enough to glow) and it also made my mod warm and after 10 seconds of consecutive firing, my battery was hot.

Here's a picture.
Please any advise would help greatly.

 

[Giraut]

My advice: quit doing quad coils. You'll spend less time building and more time enjoying the vape with dual coils. Not to mention, you won't ruin your battery which, by what you describe, can't supply the current needed for your build. 4 twisted 26-ga, 5-wrap kanthal coils in parallel are equivalent to a short circuit in my book.

 

[nightshard]

Stop what you're doing and get an ohm meter!
From the image it seems to me like you're using a 18350 mod and if so it's even more dangerous.
Why do you feel the need to use quads?


There are no stupid batteries, just stupid people.

 

[j.morgan]

Ok so I have a 18650 battery with a 5-post Rda . Which wire gauge should I get and what should I do to get the biggest clouds possible


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[richardward77]

Not bad coils to be fair.I'd have just done dual coils won't strain the battery as much.as said above though you really need an ohm reader and a good knowledge of ohms law before you start messing with any coil build.

 

[dingo1799]

I got my hands on some 26 gauge kenthal, and I've been experimenting with it. I made some twisted kenthal wires and managed to build a stable dual coil.

I got a new RDA that doesn't need me to tighten the wire around the negative/positive post screws, it's just a "stick in the negative/positive screw hole and tighten" type that we all love.

I have a Sony 18650V4 battery

---- QUESTION PART ----

Is this even in gods name possible, I got my twisted 26guage kenthal wires and did a 5 wrap and set it up quad coil. I don't have an ohm reader, would this even be safe or possible, I am yet to try it with a full battery, but on a low battery, it just made the coils hot(not enough to glow) and it also made my mod warm and after 10 seconds of consecutive firing, my battery was hot.

Here's a picture.
Please any advise would help greatly.

by the looks of the picture, you have one hell of a shit clone of a mod. it could have a bad connection, causing the mod to heat up. or you could be on the verge of the battery venting, or possibly exploding due to a severe lack of resistance in your super badass quad coil build. but you wouldnt know that without an ohmmeter.

you should probably just stick to a Blu ecig.

 

[Giraut]

[...]you should probably just stick to a Blu ecig.

That was mean: nobody deserves a Blu - well, perhaps Hitler, but I'm not even sure...

 

[OBDave]

I advise you to stop building until you get an ohm meter and some decent batteries...unless you meant to say VTC4 and just left out 2/3 of the name, those Sony batteries are only rated to 8 or 10a, and you're trying to push quads with a dead battery.

Even attempting to fire this build is a worse idea than sticking your dick in the mashed potatoes. It's not that kind of party.

 

[Mario Camacho]

new to the forums,
I understand you guys have a lot more experience than me because I'm a beginner. But I ask to please be more kind as I'm only trying to get advise.

I tightened up the coils and yes with a Sony 18650 VTC4 fully charged, it fired up well, heating all coils inside out very evenly. No mod heat no battery heat. So far after organic cotton fixing, it's been working fine.

I know I need an ohm reader, I ordered one, but in the mean time, I'll go to a local shop and get it read so you guys could be updated sooner? How does that sound

- also I would like to add that yes my mod is a clone and the top has been through some wear but the connections are in great shape.

By the picture, the coils are very well ventilated

If it's firing very well and no signs of any dysfunction or hazard like before on a dead battery. What do you guys advise.

I'll be updating with an ohm reader shortly

 

[nightshard]

We are kind, we are trying to prevent you from blowing off your hand


There are no stupid batteries, just stupid people.

 

[OBDave]

new to the forums,
I understand you guys have a lot more experience than me because I'm a beginner. But I ask to please be more kind as I'm only trying to get advise.

I tightened up the coils and yes with a Sony 18650 VTC4 fully charged, it fired up well, heating all coils inside out very evenly. No mod heat no battery heat. So far after organic cotton fixing, it's been working fine.

I know I need an ohm reader, I ordered one, but in the mean time, I'll go to a local shop and get it read so you guys could be updated sooner? How does that sound

- also I would like to add that yes my mod is a clone and the top has been through some wear but the connections are in great shape.

By the picture, the coils are very well ventilated

If it's firing very well and no signs of any dysfunction or hazard like before on a dead battery. What do you guys advise.

I'll be updating with an ohm reader shortly

Make sure the coils aren't making contact with the top cap after it's installed, and I'd still be curious to see what that build ohm's out to - but as long as you're not getting any noticeable heat in the battery or on your mod tube (and you're sure the coils aren't contacting the top cap once installed), you can probably vape it. Make sure you don't let that battery drop below 3.6 volts...

 

[Mario Camacho]

The coils aren't touching the top

Make sure the coils aren't making contact with the top cap after it's installed, and I'd still be curious to see what that build ohm's out to - but as long as you're not getting any noticeable heat in the battery or on your mod tube (and you're sure the coils aren't contacting the top cap once installed), you can probably vape it. Make sure you don't let that battery drop below 3.6 volts...

The coils aren't touching the top cap,
I'm using a VTC4, I know they're pretty stable, but how do I know when it's running lower than 3.6 volts?
On a full charge, the battery has lasted around two days of moderate use, and when it came close to dying, vapor just began decreasing slowly to the point it wouldn't fire.

No battery or mod heat throughout

I'm curious on the ohms too. Haven't gotten the chance to go to a local shop, and my reader should be coming in any day now.
But I'm guessing possibly a sub .2 maybe .1?

Also, I've ordered a pair of VTC5s
From some research I found that they're good for stable 30A discharge?
would I need more than 30A?

 

[Mario Camacho]

Make sure the coils aren't making contact with the top cap after it's installed, and I'd still be curious to see what that build ohm's out to - but as long as you're not getting any noticeable heat in the battery or on your mod tube (and you're sure the coils aren't contacting the top cap once installed), you can probably vape it. Make sure you don't let that battery drop below 3.6 volts...

also,
What should the life expectancy of a VTC4 or 5 battery be with a build like this?

What would the hazards be of firing on a low battery?

Everyone seems to be disliking and hating on my quad coil build, suggesting dual coil.
I tried the same set up as I posted above in dual coil mode and seemed to get less vapor and less flavor. What are the pros and cons of dual coil vs quad coil.

Here's a picture of the dual coil I set up I made on my other rda with the 26guage twisted kenthal I made.
Sorry I'm fairly new to building so excuse any sloppiness or incorrect setup.

thanks a lot for all your guys' responses and help. I'm learning a lot

 

[scarecrowjenkins]

It's actually a pretty clean build! If you frequent a vape shop i'd imagine they would pop it on their ohm reader for you. If you wanna build quad coils, build some fucking quad coils, it's YOUR atomizer hahaha. Thats the best part of vaping-as long as you're being safe you can do whatever the hell you want to! You definitely wanna twist that wire more though. I always twist it until one end snaps off, then turn it around, pop it back in the drill and twist it until the other side snaps off. If you keep tension on the wire you'll end up with a nice straight piece thats twisted up real good. You'll get better flavor and better vapor with tighter twists. But your coils look great man, keep up the good work! Just listen to the rest of the gang when it comes to safety. I know some folks come on a little strong, but battery disasters happen to real people, they're just looking out for you. See if a nearby vape shop will read your build for you and good luck! KEEP ON BUILDING.

 

[Ryedan]

I'm using a VTC4, I know they're pretty stable, but how do I know when it's running lower than 3.6 volts?

You need a digital multimeter. This was my first one and for $10 plus shipping you can't go wrong. You set it to 20 volts and check the battery after you notice a small drop in vapor production. I swap mine out at 3.6 - 3.7 volts. They are pretty close to 4.2V after charging. Once you have done this a few times you'll get a feel for how low the battery is and you won't have to do it too often anymore.

On a full charge, the battery has lasted around two days of moderate use, and when it came close to dying, vapor just began decreasing slowly to the point it wouldn't fire.

If you ran down the battery until it didn't fire at all anymore you've probably damaged it. They should never go below 2.5V and you really don't get much power from them below around 3.6V in mech mods anyway. A battery run down below 2.5V a few times will lose performance fast and the more often you do it and the lower you take them the more chance they become dangerous.

No battery or mod heat throughout

I'm curious on the ohms too. Haven't gotten the chance to go to a local shop, and my reader should be coming in any day now.
But I'm guessing possibly a sub .2 maybe .1?

Also, I've ordered a pair of VTC5s
From some research I found that they're good for stable 30A discharge?
would I need more than 30A?

The amps you need depends on the resistance of your build and the voltage of the battery. Here's a Ohm's law calculator. Set the voltage to 4.2 which is what a fresh battery will be at and that will draw the most amps from a build. Now enter the build resistance you got from the reader.

From that calculator, at 0.2 ohms your battery will be putting out 21A. At 0.1 ohms it doubles to 42A and your batteries are rated for 30A (if they are in good shape). This is why it's so important to know your build resistance.

Also, when you build an atty with a single 0.4 ohm coil, the build resistance is 0.4 ohms. If you do a dual coil build using two 0.4 ohm coils the build resistance will be 0.4 (ohms) / 2 (coils) = 0.2 ohms. In this case your battery would see the 0.2 ohm resistance and the current draw would be 21A. With four 0.4 ohm coils the build resistance would be 0.1 ohm (0.4 / 4 = 0.1) and you would be at the 42A battery draw. This is why people are suggesting you do dual coils not quads, specially without a ohms checker.

These batteries are pretty safe, but every once in a while one explodes and that can really mess up your day

Hope that helps a bit. Now vape on and vape safe

 

[Ryedan]

Here's a picture of the dual coil I set up I made on my other rda with the 26guage twisted kenthal I made.

I'm not sure Mario because that picture is blurred, but I think you may have a lot of wire wrapped around the three posts. If you do you want to get rid of it. I use small wire cutters like this one to trim mine. Here's a shot of a dual coil build of mine. It's hard to see, but I leave a little wire hanging out of the post hole and bend it up like on the right post. I do that so if a post screw backs out the wire will have a much harder time to come out and let the coil short on the cap.

 

[OBDave]

The coils aren't touching the top


The coils aren't touching the top cap,
I'm using a VTC4, I know they're pretty stable, but how do I know when it's running lower than 3.6 volts?
On a full charge, the battery has lasted around two days of moderate use, and when it came close to dying, vapor just began decreasing slowly to the point it wouldn't fire.

No battery or mod heat throughout

I'm curious on the ohms too. Haven't gotten the chance to go to a local shop, and my reader should be coming in any day now.
But I'm guessing possibly a sub .2 maybe .1?

Also, I've ordered a pair of VTC5s
From some research I found that they're good for stable 30A discharge?
would I need more than 30A?

@Ryedan covered a lot of this quite well, so I'll keep it short.

Get a multimeter, charge your battery and test - it should come out to 4.2v. Take a dozen vapes or so, pull the battery and test. Repeat this until you get to 3.7v, 3.6v at the lowest, recharge. Repeat the whole thing a few times over and you'll start developing a feel for when you're dropping below that 3.7v sweet spot.

If you've drained your batteries until they won't even fire any more, you've probably damaged them, but there's no way to be sure how badly. Get that multimeter and see if they even charge up to 4.2v any more. If they do, they'll probably drain a lot faster than they should. You may end up replacing any batteries you've done this to sooner than later.

Go use that ohm's law calculator you were provided and enter the resistance (you can test this on your multimeter if you don't have the ohm reader yet) and 4.2v for a full charge - if you're below 0.2 there's a chance you're not even using that VTC4 safely.

It's a common misconception that because the VTC3 and VTC4 are 30a, the VTC5 will be, too - false. They're actually 20a batteries, just like any of the other 2500 mah batteries out there, as I've been told by not one but three or four battery experts.

If you insist on running below 0.2 ohm, you probably need more than 30a, which would mean a dual-battery box...

 

[Mario Camacho]

@Ryedan covered a lot of this quite well, so I'll keep it short.

Get a multimeter, charge your battery and test - it should come out to 4.2v. Take a dozen vapes or so, pull the battery and test. Repeat this until you get to 3.7v, 3.6v at the lowest, recharge. Repeat the whole thing a few times over and you'll start developing a feel for when you're dropping below that 3.7v sweet spot.

If you've drained your batteries until they won't even fire any more, you've probably damaged them, but there's no way to be sure how badly. Get that multimeter and see if they even charge up to 4.2v any more. If they do, they'll probably drain a lot faster than they should. You may end up replacing any batteries you've done this to sooner than later.

Go use that ohm's law calculator you were provided and enter the resistance (you can test this on your multimeter if you don't have the ohm reader yet) and 4.2v for a full charge - if you're below 0.2 there's a chance you're not even using that VTC4 safely.

It's a common misconception that because the VTC3 and VTC4 are 30a, the VTC5 will be, too - false. They're actually 20a batteries, just like any of the other 2500 mah batteries out there, as I've been told by not one but three or four battery experts.

If you insist on running below 0.2 ohm, you probably need more than 30a, which would mean a dual-battery box...

I'm dropping the quad coil build and going for a dual coil stable build.

But I'm still curious on this build, I have now an ohm meter but when I turn it on it stays blank and when i screw in the atty, it still stays blank. I don't have anything else to test it on. I'm pretty sure there's a connection being made. Possibly a short?

 

[Mario Camacho]

I've learned from my mistakes.
Here's my new build.
Twisted 24guage kenfhal / dual coil

My ohm meter came in the mail. It's one of those standard 510 fitting.
I have an issue, it reads "- - -" when I turn it on, then screwing in the atty doesn't change anything, it still stays at "- - -"
Probably no contact? But it seems like it makes contact when I screw it in. It feels tight and secure.
any help on that?

we've gone a long way mates

 

[Mario Camacho]

I've learned from my mistakes.
Here's my new build.
Twisted 24guage kenfhal / dual coil

My ohm meter came in the mail. It's one of those standard 510 fitting.
I have an issue, it reads "- - -" when I turn it on, then screwing in the atty doesn't change anything, it still stays at "- - -"
Probably no contact? But it seems like it makes contact when I screw it in. It feels tight and secure.
any help on that?

we've gone a long way mates

adding tho this.
I tried reading the quad coil build before ^^^
and the ohm meter read "- - -" i thought no contact or short.
I took off everything and cleaned it, and tested it Raw like that, and stil "- - -" so I thought maybe that means 0.00 or maybe no contact.
I then finished that dual coil set up and still
"- - -" no signs of short or anything so has to be false contact right? Or maybe the ohm meter being faulty? Most I see say 0.00 instead of "- - -"
Changed batteries, everything.

might the ohm meter be a lemon?
I have no other atty to test it on, but I'll use my buddies tomorrow and see what the results are.

 

[OBDave]

Nice looking twisted coils there. I always wait to turn my ohm reader on until the atty is screwed in, not sure if that's your problem though, I just tested turning it on first and then connecting and still got a read. Maybe your center pin doesn't protrude far enough to get a connection?

 

[richardward77]

Might be wrong but it looks like coils maybe touching the deck sides.

 

[Mario Camacho]

Nice looking twisted coils there. I always wait to turn my ohm reader on until the atty is screwed in, not sure if that's your problem though, I just tested turning it on first and then connecting and still got a read. Maybe your center pin doesn't protrude far enough to get a connection?

Here's a picture showing the center pin and the ohm meter.

Might be wrong but it looks like coils maybe touching the deck sides.

In the picture you can also see from a side angle that the coils are elevated and away from anything

 

[Mario Camacho]

is there any way I can extend it to ensure contact?

I mean the center pin has a copper screw to adjust to lengthen the center pin a little bit more, but even fully extended, it screws in snug into the ohm meter, but still no reading.

 

[OBDave]

That looks exactly like my ohm reader, and your pin looks like it's extended far enough...I don't know, maybe try removing and re-installing the battery? Failing that I'm thinking the reader might be a dud - where did it come from?

 

[arilen]

are the batteries new in the ohm reader, My friend had that happen with his using old batteries, then he changed the batteries for a new set and it worked fine

 

[Mario Camacho]

That looks exactly like my ohm reader, and your pin looks like it's extended far enough...I don't know, maybe try removing and re-installing the battery? Failing that I'm thinking the reader might be a dud - where did it come from?

came from a vape seller on eBay.

I think I figured out the problem.
I'll try to describe it as less confusing as possible.


The center post is held in really snugly into place, but with a little force is able to rotate for coil adjustments. when the center post bottom height screw is screwed out a bit for connectivity, any amount of upwards force on that point makes the center post move upwards a tiny bit, making the bottom adjustment screw flush to the threadings.

then to fix it, with a little downward pressure on the center post, it moves back down a tiny bit, making the adjustment screw go back to how it should originally be.

I don't have this problem with my battery pushing up towards the bottom adjustment screw in my mod.

So I'm inferring that when I screw it on the ohm meter, the pressure on the adjustment screw, pushes the center post upwards, creating no connectivity.

But it doesn't make sense because if it pushes the center post upwards, it means the ohm meter is making a solid connection.
But even if I try to screw the atty slowly into the meter until it starts pushing the center post upwards a tiny bit or before it does and I feel tension, I still don't get a reading.

I've tried to put a lot of pressure on the center post downwards while screwing onto the ohm meter so the center post doesn't move, and still nothing. Just a few really off weird readings that lasted like 2 seconds.
Something along the lines of 8.00 and .45 but I'm sure it's neither of those.

 

[Mario Camacho]

are the batteries new in the ohm reader, My friend had that happen with his using old batteries, then he changed the batteries for a new set and it worked fine

are the batteries new in the ohm reader, My friend had that happen with his using old batteries, then he changed the batteries for a new set and it worked fine

I'm pretty sure they're fresh batteries but let me go get a new pair to double check

 

[Mario Camacho]

Arilen. MVP.

I feel so silly doing all those things when it was just not new batteries.

Ok as always, new problem.

when I first screw it in slowly, I get a reading of .5 - .6

then screwing it all the way in gives me a .5 - .4 reading.
Stable-ish around 0.45

but if I push down on the center post, it gives me a .3~ reading.

What should I take? Is this normal

 

[Mario Camacho]

wait wait wait.

using the top for the atty, always a getting a .37 ohm reading now.

how is that? good?
would a VTC4 be stable at that reading?
I know I shouldn't let my batteries go lower than 3.6 V now so I'll be checking that.

 

[OBDave]

Anything from 0.37 up is probably fine, but I worry about that center pin on your atty floating around like that - would try to tighten it up so it stays in place and continues to protrude from the base a bit even when pressure is applied from screwing it in.

 

[Mario Camacho]

Anything from 0.37 up is probably fine, but I worry about that center pin on your atty floating around like that - would try to tighten it up so it stays in place and continues to protrude from the base a bit even when pressure is applied from screwing it in.

Center pin is pretty solid, It just takes a decent amount of pressure to move it upwards.
I don't know how to tighten it since it looks like it's a rubber fitting.

 

[OBDave]

What kind of mod are you running this on? As long as it's not a hybrid mech you should be okay, just be careful not to over-tighten the atty...

 

[arilen]

Arilen. MVP.

I feel so silly doing all those things when it was just not new batteries.

Ok as always, new problem.

when I first screw it in slowly, I get a reading of .5 - .6

then screwing it all the way in gives me a .5 - .4 reading.
Stable-ish around 0.45

but if I push down on the center post, it gives me a .3~ reading.

What should I take? Is this normal

Happy to help

 

[BigNasty]

Time to get a new atty.
Try a dark horse they tend not to suffer from fucky center posts.

That fucky center post is going to give you all sorts of fits and possible issues.