Become a Patron!

Re wiring a mod?

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I'm getting a series mod with a mosfet. I've read some reviews on the device and saw one that struck my eye. "thin wire, 1v voltage drop without load". Idk if it was the series or parallel version but I'm thinking I need to rewire the mod to get the most of it. I was thinking 14-16gauge wire. I won't need a lot. Probably 5' or red and 5' of black at very most, and idea where I can get that gauge in such small amounts?
 

dre

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Seriously you can just find old electronics and harvest some wire 16g if fairly common

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
 

Mike H.

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
14g wire is the minimum gauge i would use...the best wire to use is solid copper but, not the un protected wire...you want the wire with the hard plastic coating on it used for electricity in homes.

Local hardware store should be a good source...i bought 1ft of 12g off the roll for like .23 cents to make rice pins for my nemesis mod.
 

dre

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Autozone has solidcore 16g and 14g wire I know that for sure $6-10

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
 

jamey554

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Radio shack u can find anything u need there

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Seriously you can just find old electronics and harvest some wire 16g if fairly common

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
Isn't most of that similar to speaker wire? Like small twisted copper wire?
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
14g wire is the minimum gauge i would use...the best wire to use is solid copper but, not the un protected wire...you want the wire with the hard plastic coating on it used for electricity in homes.

Local hardware store should be a good source...i bought 1ft of 12g off the roll for like .23 cents to make rice pins for my nemesis mod.
I think my local hardware store may still do that. The rewire should be pretty simple gotta get my solder skills back up! I am shaky due to an anxiety disorder. Been a while. I only plan on using it for competition, I've veered away from unregulated devices, but got my ass handed to me by a guy with an unregulated hexohm.
 

dre

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I think RadioShack is gone all over the USA. Any auto parts store chain will carry a small $10 or less spool of 18-14g wire usually solidcore. Ornyoy can harvest any thick.guage wire you Can find. Stranded is easier to solder then solid

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
 

Saddletramp1200

Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I am going too miss the store. The employees at first knew their stuff. Then not so much. My new book, Screwing with Radio Shack Employees # 2 will be out later. Some need 10 Million start up. I know who does. I am here.
 

dre

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
i thought that too at one time,but there are at least 3 of them that i have been to still open in Alaska
Then they would have everything you need

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
I have some high temp & flex silicone 14awg, 16awg, & 22awg stranded wire on order from China. If it's of acceptable quality, it'll be adding to our eBay listings to compliment the heatshrink, MOSFET's & resistors we're already carrying. Unfortunately it'll probably be a couple weeks before it gets here because of trying to avoid air shipping fees on it..

http://stores.ebay.com/DIY-FancyLights ... not a dedicated vape shop, but you guys have been keeping me busy.
 
Last edited:

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I think RadioShack is gone all over the USA. Any auto parts store chain will carry a small $10 or less spool of 18-14g wire usually solidcore. Ornyoy can harvest any thick.guage wire you Can find. Stranded is easier to solder then solid

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk
I have one local here. Also have an auto zone nearby I could try
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I have some high temp & flex silicone 14awg, 16awg, & 22awg stranded wire on order from China. If it's of acceptable quality, it'll be adding to our eBay listings to compliment the heatshrink, MOSFET's & resistors we're already carrying. Unfortunately it'll probably be a couple weeks before it gets here because of trying to avoid air shipping fees on it..

http://stores.ebay.com/DIY-FancyLights ... not a dedicated vape shop, but you guys have been keeping me busy.
I may be switching out the mosfet if I can't find any identify marks so I can get ratings on it. Brings me to another question, what is the 15k resistor for I've seen in some schematics, I know this box doesn't have a resistor just a mosfet. And would there be a GREAT difference in solid vs stranded wire of the same gauge? Are we talking a slight voltage drop or a large one. I've never built a mod so I figure I'll start with the rewire.
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
The 15k resistor is needed to turn off the MOSFET after you release the switch. The actual value isn't too critical, 15k is just a nice one that's been adopted for general use.

Technically, for the same gauge wire, they both can carry the same current with almost identical voltage drops. The stranded wire though is larger, but more flexible. Some people think that the solid wire can handle excess heat better, but I haven't researched the heat conduction of solid vs stranded. The reason I ordered stranded myself was because it is so much more flexible it's a lot easier to use. The Silicone insulation instead of the 'normal' also helps make it more flexible, while also more resistant to heat.
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
The 15k resistor is needed to turn off the MOSFET after you release the switch. The actual value isn't too critical, 15k is just a nice one that's been adopted for general use.

Technically, for the same gauge wire, they both can carry the same current with almost identical voltage drops. The stranded wire though is larger, but more flexible. Some people think that the solid wire can handle excess heat better, but I haven't researched the heat conduction of solid vs stranded. The reason I ordered stranded myself was because it is so much more flexible it's a lot easier to use. The Silicone insulation instead of the 'normal' also helps make it more flexible, while also more resistant to heat.
Thank you very much. So the mosfet will continue to draw current without the resistor in place? I'll have to check your prices because I might as well do it correctly if I'm going to do a complete rewire anyway.
Also since the resistance doesnt matter couldn't I also just steal one for say an old radio?
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
The 15k resistor is needed to turn off the MOSFET after you release the switch. The actual value isn't too critical, 15k is just a nice one that's been adopted for general use.

Technically, for the same gauge wire, they both can carry the same current with almost identical voltage drops. The stranded wire though is larger, but more flexible. Some people think that the solid wire can handle excess heat better, but I haven't researched the heat conduction of solid vs stranded. The reason I ordered stranded myself was because it is so much more flexible it's a lot easier to use. The Silicone insulation instead of the 'normal' also helps make it more flexible, while also more resistant to heat.
Would this mosfet, 1pcs 30V 150A Logic Level N-Channel MOSFET HEXFET TO-220 IRLB8743PBF

On your eBay Store be good for this purpose. Batteries can only push 8.4v and staying within 30A battery limitation. If so do I need a heatsink? If so which one...
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Would this mosfet, 1pcs 30V 150A Logic Level N-Channel MOSFET HEXFET TO-220 IRLB8743PBF

On your eBay Store be good for this purpose. Batteries can only push 8.4v and staying within 30A battery limitation. If so do I need a heatsink? If so which one...
Also do you combine shipping on multiple items?
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
I'm trying to avoid this being just about making a sale, but I'll answer your questions.

For most box mod vapes, people have been buying the IRLB3034PBF since it has a lower on resistance then the IRLB8743PBF, others have been happy with the IRLB8743 which is also cheaper. We've also recently added a PSMN0R9-25 MOSFET with a resistor both already mounted on a PCB that'll be easier to solder to because of the holes (reference the 'microFET' module). I've been avoiding trying to push that here since I haven't gotten final feedback from several vapers that have them that aren't affiliated with me.

If you decide to go with the IRLB3034PBF, we do have a version of that with the 15k resistors already included. We do combine shipping automatically via eBay if you pay for your order all at once with a single payment.

I do encourage other readers to add their own two cents since I'm the seller, that way you can get other users opinions.

P.S. Don't forget, we don't have the wire yet.
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I'm trying to avoid this being just about making a sale, but I'll answer your questions.

For most box mod vapes, people have been buying the IRLB3034PBF since it has a lower on resistance then the IRLB8743PBF, others have been happy with the IRLB8743 which is also cheaper. We've also recently added a PSMN0R9-25 MOSFET with a resistor both already mounted on a PCB that'll be easier to solder to because of the holes (reference the 'microFET' module). I've been avoiding trying to push that here since I haven't gotten final feedback from several vapers that have them that aren't affiliated with me.

If you decide to go with the IRLB3034PBF, we do have a version of that with the 15k resistors already included. We do combine shipping automatically via eBay if you pay for your order all at once with a single payment.

I do encourage other readers to add their own two cents since I'm the seller, that way you can get other users opinions.

P.S. Don't forget, we don't have the wire yet.

Id imagine you know the products you're selling, so I appreciate your advice!
No problem I can get wire locally I'm sure.
What is the size difference between the PSMN0R9-25 pcb and the IRLB3034PBF? there's not a ton of space to work with up there.
I found a set of 5pcs of the IRLB3034PBF w resistor mounted. Do you happen to sell them in 1pc?
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I'm liking the PSMN0R9-25 actually I'm sure it'd fit looking at the specs, looks like it'd be a breeze to wire in!
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
Yes, I do know the products very well ... what I don't have is some of that hands on experience with box mod vapes that others on the forums can give you.

The microFET module is about the size IRL3034's case + tab after you've shortened the leads of the TO-220 case (or slightly shorter), the microFET is also thinner. Technically, the PSMN0R9-25 is as good or better electrically then the IRLB3034, except it's limited to 25V, which isn't a problem for most box mod vapes :) The holes in the board the microFET also makes it easier to solder, since you can stick the wires into the holes & bend it to help it stay in place. For all MOSFET's.microFET's, you also make sure to put heatshrink over the solder joints and the part in order to prevent shorting.

Look at http://vapingunderground.com/thread...ds-different-way-to-vape-150w-capable.110875/ for examples of how he wired his MOSFET & resistor in. The general discussion thread you probably already found is at http://vapingunderground.com/threads/basic-mosfet-wiring.2361/

I do have qty 1 listing for just the MOSFET, if you only want the one I can toss in a resistor for free, just include a note/message so I do that. The microFET already included the resistor soldered to the board.
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
Yes, I do know the products very well ... what I don't have is some of that hands on experience with box mod vapes that others on the forums can give you.

The microFET module is about the size IRL3034's case + tab after you've shortened the leads of the TO-220 case (or slightly shorter), the microFET is also thinner. Technically, the PSMN0R9-25 is as good or better electrically then the IRLB3034, except it's limited to 25V, which isn't a problem for most box mod vapes :) The holes in the board the microFET also makes it easier to solder, since you can stick the wires into the holes & bend it to help it stay in place. For all MOSFET's.microFET's, you also make sure to put heatshrink over the solder joints and the part in order to prevent shorting.

Look at http://vapingunderground.com/thread...ds-different-way-to-vape-150w-capable.110875/ for examples of how he wired his MOSFET & resistor in. The general discussion thread you probably already found is at http://vapingunderground.com/threads/basic-mosfet-wiring.2361/

I do have qty 1 listing for just the MOSFET, if you only want the one I can toss in a resistor for free, just include a note/message so I do that. The microFET already included the resistor soldered to the board.
Awesome I'll be making an order once I give the mod a once over. Shipping has been delayed!
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
I'm liking the PSMN0R9-25 actually I'm sure it'd fit looking at the specs, looks like it'd be a breeze to wire in!
I prefer to calling it by the name I gave the entire thing 'microFET', since the PSMN0R9-25 is the MOSFET that's been already soldered on. Helps prevent people that look at the thread in the middle from getting confused.

P.S. From an earlier question ... most people don't use heatsinks on the MOSFET's ... but many do prefer to solder the middle wire that goes to the 510 to the TAB of the IRLB3034 instead of the middle lead.
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
Awesome I'll be making an order once I give the mod a once over. Shipping has been delayed!
I do encourage others to chip in and give you advice still.

For those people reading here about my microFET: People prefer to have two in parallel, you should be able to stack two on top of each other with the wires going all the way through (I encourage you have a small gap between them). That will put them in parallel easily and be only slightly thicker then a single TO-220 case!
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I do encourage others to chip in and give you advice still.

For those people reading here about my microFET: People prefer to have two in parallel, you should be able to stack two on top of each other with the wires going all the way through (I encourage you have a small gap between them). That will put them in parallel easily and be only slightly thicker then a single TO-220 case!
Oh yes still would like opinions! Mod building even pseudo building is new to me, so I'm down for whatever information I can get
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
I do encourage others to chip in and give you advice still.

For those people reading here about my microFET: People prefer to have two in parallel, you should be able to stack two on top of each other with the wires going all the way through (I encourage you have a small gap between them). That will put them in parallel easily and be only slightly thicker then a single TO-220 case!
What does having two mosfets in parallel do exactly?
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
New question, if the mosfet fails will it then "bypass" it dumping amperage into the switch?
 

CurlyxCracker

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Member For 5 Years
So got it in, wired with 20awg... So I have my 14awg ready to go but a bit confused by the wiring.
31daf6cf317a017febb4fa6aedcac17c.jpg


Shouldn't it be more like this
559d433a89d6e08f318346b85edaef5a.jpg
 

VU Sponsors

Top