Didn't feel like this fit with normal rebuilding area. Anyhow, I have tried my hardest to get my wicking right on a rebuilt PT head. Does anyone have a surefire amount of silica or whatever that they use??? I use a 50/50 mix but either get dry or flooded hits. With a stock head I'm okay about 50% of the time out of the box. The other 50% I dick with the wicking but just make it worse. And when I rebuild it is the same way. Thank You!
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Rebuilding Protank Heads
- Thread starter Cru
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Hi there ... Without knowing what device you are using and the voltage/ wattage/ohms you are using, that can be a tough call. I use 30 or 32 GA kanthal around 3 mm silica and then place a 2 mm silica on top of the coil as a 'flavor wick'. No dry hits and no flooding at 2 ohms and 8 watts. I have a PT2 and vape 50/50.
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Thanks for the info! I mainly use an old school Bolt with a kick at about 7 watts at 2 ohms single coil. I have no clue what my wire or silica gauges are for they were given to me. I usually build micro coils. The other thing is the majority of stock heads don't work either! I even bought the aero base but can't seem to get it to help eitherl
Hi Cru,
I have had good success building a single coil on the Protank/eVod/MT3S, etc. heads using 32 gauge Kanthal wire with a cotton wick.
I've been vaping for five years and have a lot of friends who vape but aren't real good with all the rebuilding stuff. As a result, I built a blog to mainly help them when they were having trouble. I don't know if it is okay for me to post a link to it here but you can message me. I've got a complete write up on the step by step build I've been using on the protank.
I have had good success building a single coil on the Protank/eVod/MT3S, etc. heads using 32 gauge Kanthal wire with a cotton wick.
I've been vaping for five years and have a lot of friends who vape but aren't real good with all the rebuilding stuff. As a result, I built a blog to mainly help them when they were having trouble. I don't know if it is okay for me to post a link to it here but you can message me. I've got a complete write up on the step by step build I've been using on the protank.
This ain't ECF, post away man. I'd be interested myself.
I like the PT and have meant to try rebuilding one, but I have so many other RBA toppers that just haven't gotten around to it.
I like to use Sugar & Cream yarn from Hobby Lobby, same as Peaches and Cream from Wal-Mart. Most people find it the perfect size, I like to remove one strand of the 4 that make up the cut piece to avoide burnt/dry hits. No guessing at how much cotton to tear off a cotton ball.
I use a 2mm coil with a single piece of Peaches & Creme yarn. I put the chimney on and snip leaving about 1-2mm. If I happen to get flooding of any kind I will separate a piece of the yarn (it is 4 strands) and place 1 strand over the coil and outside of the housing at the same length as the main wick.
VapedCrusader
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I only tried once and I flooded the shit out of it.. I guess I need to keep messing with the amount of cotton.. to be honest I thought I was using too much and it still leaked everywhere.
EthelMaltol
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My pt rebuilding skills are getting better. I use silica, only because I like to dry burn them. I use cotton as the flavor wick though. I use a sewing needle to hold the silica when I wrap and to position, then remove it.
Thanks for posting the link and thanks to vaporcruz for a very well done 'how to'.
bluraff3
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For me, the secret to not getting dry hits was to make sure the coil and wick were the exact width of the channel. If the wick is too wide, you'll choke it. If too thin, it will flood. You need to get a drill bit or something like it (I have this large sewing needle that is the perfect size) that is as close to the perfect size for the channel. Wrap the coil around that bit and install it. I then use cotton to get the right sized wick in there. If you really want to use silica, I think it's possible, but it needs to be the perfect size to fit through that coil otherwise you run the risk of choking or flooding.
The closest thing to a sensible answer I've read on this brief thread. Sorry if I missed someone that actually addressed the OP's questions my apologies.
Before quitting over a year ago I camped on reddit and a bunch of the major forums trying to get the lay of the land. I kind of got the sense that it was the blind leading the blind sorta. Most of the folks that started to get it goin' on vamoosed into the woodwork of specialty forums or niches where they were like for example carto users and mech lovers. The relative newcomer's were left to fend for themselves mostly and they in turn proudly shared their limited but hardly won proficiency. It seems everyone's doomed to run that gauntlet including buying every device in sight looking for the solution to this problem or that deficiency. Nowhere an answer that approximates the vape that's equivalent to what we had.
Well bluraff at least you didn't fly in arms swingin' proclaiming try 6 winds of 32 for 2.4 ohms…as if this were the mantra that would yield ultimate salvation. You did something particular and special. You described what the device needed. And confirmed you'd tried it yourself and it worked. The important thing here what the device needed. And you're dead on that a Protank (all vaporizers really) need a rather precise localization, a symmetry of alignment and a proportional ratio of wick/wire/wind to it's abilities to deliver power. If you over deliver on the preceding you are most certainly right that you'll flood.
I've written a few pages on the subject of Protanks and found that there are a few methods needed for getting them to work reliably. The answer is simple too — proper electronics. Better still, an efficient high performance version of the kind of electronics we use every day. Best part still is that it's easy to do with inexpensive tools and it works every time. You still have to deal with the human factor. We make mistakes. But the methods may account for that too very neatly...by being quick and easy to repeat. So its not the terrifying burden it's made out to be…OMG rebuilding…flee, flee!
I've already added a few pages to the underground and hope to continue with much more. If you do a quick search on my member name you should turn up a few notes and get the basic idea. For the moment more substantial documentation is available on that other forum if you need an answer now. Or you can hail me here. Happy to help.
There's your answer tho Cru…you're going to have to put together a symmetrical, coherent wind that matches the geometry the Protank's lookin' for. Don't feel bad, the manufacturers aren't doin' it either. Otherwise, there wouldn't be so many of us tryin' to find the fix.
Good luck all. See ya out here.
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bluraff3
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Wow thanks! I've read a few of your posts before. Very informative!The closest thing to a sensible answer I've read on this brief thread. Sorry if I missed someone that actually addressed the OP's questions my apologies.
Before quitting over a year ago I camped on reddit and a bunch of the major forums trying to get the lay of the land. I kind of got the sense that it was the blind leading the blind sorta. Most of the folks that started to get it goin' on vamoosed into the woodwork of specialty forums or niches where they were like for example carto users and mech lovers. The relative newcomer's were left to fend for themselves mostly and they in turn proudly shared their limited but hardly won proficiency. It seems everyone's doomed to run that gauntlet including buying every device in sight looking for the solution to this problem or that deficiency. Nowhere an answer that approximates the vape that's equivalent to what we had.
Well bluraff at least you didn't fly in arms swingin' proclaiming try 6 winds of 32 for 2.4 ohms…as if this were the mantra that would yield ultimate salvation. You did something particular and special. You described what the device needed. And confirmed you'd tried it yourself and it worked. The important thing here what the device needed. And you're dead on that a Protank (all vaporizers really) need a rather precise localization, a symmetry of alignment and a proportional ratio of wick/wire/wind to it's abilities to deliver power. If you over deliver on the preceding you are most certainly right that you'll flood.
I've written a few pages on the subject of Protanks and found that there are a few methods needed for getting them to work reliably. The answer is simple too — proper electronics. Better still, an efficient high performance version of the kind of electronics we use every day. Best part still is that it's easy to do with inexpensive tools and it works every time. You still have to deal with the human factor. We make mistakes. But the methods may account for that too very neatly...by being quick and easy to repeat. So its not the terrifying burden it's made out to be…OMG rebuilding…flee, flee!
I've already added a few pages to the underground and hope to continue with much more. If you do a quick search on my member name you should turn up a few notes and get the basic idea. For the moment more substantial documentation is available on that other forum if you need an answer now. Or you can hail me here. Happy to help.
There's your answer tho Cru…you're going to have to put together a symmetrical, coherent wind that matches the geometry the Protank's lookin' for. Don't feel bad, the manufacturers aren't doin' it either. Otherwise, there wouldn't be so many of us tryin' to find the fix.
Good luck all. See ya out here.
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Rip Trippers did a tutorial on YouTube about rebuilding these things. He used a 5/64th drill bit and did 12 wraps with 28 GA Kanthal. I found it impossible to get 12 wraps in the head without shorting it out so i do 9-10 wraps. I have no idea of the resistance but it vapes great. Use organic cotton and i make it snug but not tight and cut it close to the outside edge of the housing. I soak it on the pt ring on the battery then shove any extra cotton into the little well area before screwing the tank back on. they work better than stock I personally have no issues at all with them.
Rip T has been an awesome contributor to the community insofar as evoking enthusiasm for vaping and the lifestyle (this is NOT a hobby as so often referred to on other venues). His videos have gotten impressively sophisticated but still suffer from the same deficiency…too often some very important explanation is omitted. As a result one of the most often heard remarks by posters I've seen is…but I did it just like the video. Too often we need to understand the why of things. And that's what I write about. I fill in the blanks. Connect the dots.
Of the 1400+ pages I've written on rebuilding Kanker's it was this particular omission by RT that prompted my literary efforts and revisions to the vaping electronics we use every day. My thanks mac for your remarks and opportunity to post here.
You are quite observant and that's an important quality if you want to up your vape. What Rip failed to note is that 5/64" will not fit down in the slot of a Protank housing (he did so in later videos). And that is essential to mastering clearomizer installations — achieving stable solid localization of the coil while on the mandrel (or bit) you used to wind at the bottom of the slot (nearest point to termination). It was one of the first observations I made on the importance of electrical symmetry in proper electronics. You're also dead on that 12-turns likely short. More so if you do a hand wind. Tension winding perfect contact coils not only reduces short potential and other performance deficits of coils but makes them more compact. But right you are on the coil width.
I strongly urge you to consider learning how to tension wind a perfect contact micro coil. There is no better efficiency in the vaping universe. The science is solid and proven. I've written extensively about it and thousands have successfully learned and are teaching the method. Super_X_Drifter who conceived of the microcoil last year just added an updated video on a method to accomplish tensioned adhesion, my innovation, on this post/thread...Muscle up that tension wind, go Gizmo…
The above coil was fashioned in seconds using a pin vise and a .07" (1.778mm) drill blank which is about the maximum that will fit in a KPT slot. This allows you to get the most wick in the Protank which you want since the new AFC adapter and Aero tanks came out. More air, more wick (flow) allows you the use of more power. Same physics as a car engine apply.
I've dropped a few pics here on VU illustrating the tension wind. It's a lot easier than it looks. I've yet to do a video that really captures that though. The ease of it seems to be a lot harder to grasp in one clip. It's after you've done just a few of them yourself that you get into facepalm territory.
To wrap up here mac, stop hand winding and torching your coils. You're damaging the wire and falling short of what the Protank's capable of. There are also alternatives to cotton that make it possible to avoid wick changes for weeks. Most of us can't be doing multiple builds a day to support our devices (I have 40+ mods and often ran over a a dozen PT's in tests a day). If all I'd had was the hand wind I would have failed long ago. You're on the right track about the symmetry requirements of the Protank.
One of my better posts on localization for the Protank...Fine Tuning: Precision Centering and Termination
Tap me on the shoulder mac on any specific question. Let's see if we can't get the show kickstarted here.
Good luck.
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Zombiewoof
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I found some 32ga Kanthal that came with my Igo l and decided to rebuild a Protank 2 coil. Coil went fine, although higher res then I was aiming for. However I think that wicking it correctly is the hardest part, at least for me using cotton. I'll have to mess around with it some until I get it right. Noticed improvement in flavor for sure. I don't really use my PT's anymore, maybe I'll start using them more often
I found some 32ga Kanthal that came with my Igo l and decided to rebuild a Protank 2 coil. Coil went fine, although higher res then I was aiming for. However I think that wicking it correctly is the hardest part, at least for me using cotton. I'll have to mess around with it some until I get it right. Noticed improvement in flavor for sure. I don't really use my PT's anymore, maybe I'll start using them more often
Congrats. No question you up the vapor and flavor over a loose wind that doesn't even fit the wick right. Yeah, and gettin' the cotton density right on a Protank's not always easy. I get drippers easy. But a tank's got vacuum and other issues affecting each juice differently. You have to find a center that just works. Try to look up my stuff on tension here and ECF. Tools are >10$ and it's like puttin' your vape on a turbocharger. Cut your build time in half or more. Once you get it you'll never spend a dime on a factory coil again. You'll be pullin' 'em out of your socks.
Good luck.
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Happy Turkey-D to ya all.
Good luck and a great vape!
Good luck and a great vape!
Been a while since I posted to any thread. Here goes: I have had the best luck keeping the coil to about 1 ohm give or take 1 or 2 %. I use 30 gauge and build the coil as almost all above. I find 5 full wraps to be ideal, whether 28 gauge or 30 gauge. I have tried various wicking material, cotton pads, cotton balls, ready-x-wick, hemp, and even tried a steel mesh(carbonized). I settled with the cotton pads. They seem easiest to remove when cleaning the coil, and wick extremely well.
A tip for making this atomizer a dual coil: use a piece of heavy, thick paper, or thin paper folded once and cut it so as to be placed on the first coil. Build the second coil as the first with longer legs. 30 gauge is the largest I could fit. Place the second coil on the paper, connect the same as one coil. May take a bit of practice to build the coils that work best for you, wire gauge and wicking material. Remove paper insert wick, test, and vape on!
ps. With two coils tank must be glass or steel. Plastics will definitely eventually melt, warp or fail.
A tip for making this atomizer a dual coil: use a piece of heavy, thick paper, or thin paper folded once and cut it so as to be placed on the first coil. Build the second coil as the first with longer legs. 30 gauge is the largest I could fit. Place the second coil on the paper, connect the same as one coil. May take a bit of practice to build the coils that work best for you, wire gauge and wicking material. Remove paper insert wick, test, and vape on!
ps. With two coils tank must be glass or steel. Plastics will definitely eventually melt, warp or fail.
As Scope666 put it, I am a flavor chaser not really looking for huge clouds (just pulled that out the seat of my pants.)
I forgot to mention the gauge of coil. I build on 5/64" for single coil and around 1mm for dual coil. You can use tape wrapped closely to the micro coil so that the smaller gauges fits the slot.
I forgot to mention the gauge of coil. I build on 5/64" for single coil and around 1mm for dual coil. You can use tape wrapped closely to the micro coil so that the smaller gauges fits the slot.