turn off click fire button 10 times is that mod temperature
temp 29
thanks
not trolling bud it works as said turn off rx200 then press fire button ten times it will display mod tempUmmm.......What?
Turning the mod off and tapping the fire button 10 times will just turn the mod back on, that's it.
Is this lazy trolling?
Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for the tip
turn off click fire button 10 times is that mod temperature
I was going to tell you to chill your shit out, but I see you've come around.
I've had the more than occasional time where I can't get 3 or the watt adjust 4 or even 5, clicks to happen smoothly enough. Frustrating.
Anyway, not sure about the accuracy if the mod has been in use, but the feature has been there probably since the beginning. The VTC has had it also since probably the beginning though that's like 6 updates now.
(And that one may be the 20 click... that one's tough to make happen sometimes).
We had a thread going a while back with the hold combos and multi-click features of the VTC, and maybe the TC iSticks... but if the list was in one of my posts... it's gone now.
especially after dry-firing coils, when the mod actually get hot from radiant heat, see how hot these boards actually get.
The dual converters on the board are heat sinked to the frame of the RX. The thermistor on the board is a protection interlock. The radient heat is not that big a factor, as it is on top of the mod, and shielded by the atty. (heat goes up)
On the RXs I've had apart, I've put some computer heat sink compound on the part of the board that contacts the frame, to help draw the heat from the components. Cheap insurance for longer life of the mod.
I tried using an infared thermometer to measure the external temp of an RX with, and without the thermal compound, but it was hard to see a difference. Being able to read internal temp would have told the story, but I have put the compound on both of the RXs now..lol
gonna use some of that when I take mine apart (I intend to change the screen color with clear color overlay, so may as well add more heat protection too
Not to discourage you, but to get behind the board requires a lot more than the 4 screws required to change the display color.
That will require a lottle modification. The Realeaux 510. (RX and DNA use the same one)
Is the same advisory in effect for the Realeaux DNA200?
As you say though, it's the same short-throw spring loaded 510.
No need to press ALL 3 buttons, just hold fire+down for 5 seconds while in off state for voltage readingTried it, works. Temp 42...is that high? I dont know metric
Also, start with the mod off, press and hold all 3 buttons at the same time for 10 seconds and it will display the charge voltage of all 3 batteries
I have noticed that and mentioned it in a few threads before but people thought i was BSing, all Joyetech's 510s (RX200, Evic VTC, Cuboid, iStick TC100W) damaged by using tanks with long or protruding 510/positive pin.Well, a lot more owners may be getting a peek at the internals, and a chance to add some paste.
JTech posted today that the use of long 510 pin attys (TFV4/SMOK specifically, longer than 4.6 mm) will void the warranty if it causes a fault with the RX 510.
Utterly dick move.
Look for FatDaddy 510 sales to pick up.
I gave this a good thought and still not 100% sure how it happens, probably a mix of a few possibilities, a protruding pin pushes the spring loaded positive pin far enough to break the insulator underneath it, it also depresses the spring tight enough to the point of no return i also suspect some goes wrong with the internal soldering, the net result is a permanent damage in the form of Atomizer not found or Atomizer short errors or inconsistent resistance reading which keeps jumping around making TC functionality unusable.How they stick in the depressed position?
And need coaxing to spring up again.
Yeah. It seems to be permanent if done too much.
I haven't used everything I have on these, so my only problem atty so far is the ST Nano.
How they stick in the depressed position?