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rx200 temp
- Thread starter martin
- Start date
temp 29
thanks
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
thanks
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Ummm.......What?
Turning the mod off and tapping the fire button 10 times will just turn the mod back on, that's it.
Is this lazy trolling?
not trolling bud it works as said turn off rx200 then press fire button ten times it will display mod temp
Like I said
Temp 29
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Explain how that works exactly? With the mod off, hitting the button 5 times will turn it on, hitting it 5 extra times does nothing (and by the way my RX200 is in my hand, and no it doesn't do this).
Do you take a battery out? do you really slowly press the button?
which firmware are you running too? is this a feature of the older UI?
Do you take a battery out? do you really slowly press the button?
which firmware are you running too? is this a feature of the older UI?
Ok, I got it now, it just wouldn't accept 10 clicks before (maybe the button was double clicking by mistake). I figured out the clicking speed now. Kind of a bizarre way of displaying that though, you'd figure it would be one of the adjuster buttons that you'd hold while it was off or something, maybe they'll fix that with another update.
Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for the tip
Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for the tip
I was going to tell you to chill your shit out, but I see you've come around.
I've had the more than occasional time where I can't get 3 or the watt adjust 4 or even 5, clicks to happen smoothly enough. Frustrating.
Anyway, not sure about the accuracy if the mod has been in use, but the feature has been there probably since the beginning. The VTC has had it also since probably the beginning though that's like 6 updates now.
(And that one may be the 20 click... that one's tough to make happen sometimes
).We had a thread going a while back with the hold combos and multi-click features of the VTC, and maybe the TC iSticks... but if the list was in one of my posts... it's gone now.
Tried it, works. Temp 42...is that high? I dont know metric
Also, start with the mod off, press and hold all 3 buttons at the same time for 10 seconds and it will display the charge voltage of all 3 batteries
Also, start with the mod off, press and hold all 3 buttons at the same time for 10 seconds and it will display the charge voltage of all 3 batteries
I have no shame in apologizing or correcting myself when I'm wrong, we all make mistakes, but at least I learn from them lol. I'm forever over clicking when changing modes on the RX200, I often times don't move my finger far enough away from the button between clicks, so it'll double click on me all the time
.I know all the other button combos, but had never seen or heard of this one, so I was extra suspicious when it didn't work at first
. Something I just realized is that there's a small delay when you stop clicking and when the Temp displays, so I was probably hitting the button an extra time thinking I missed a button press . Now that I know that, it works every time now (although I do feel kinda dumb now lol, but shit happens, at least no one should make the same mistake now)Mine reads at Temp 26. gonna run it for a bit and see how much it changes. This could be a fun little feature, especially after dry-firing coils, when the mod actually get hot from radiant heat, see how hot these boards actually get.
The dual converters on the board are heat sinked to the frame of the RX. The thermistor on the board is a protection interlock. The radient heat is not that big a factor, as it is on top of the mod, and shielded by the atty. (heat goes up)
On the RXs I've had apart, I've put some computer heat sink compound on the part of the board that contacts the frame, to help draw the heat from the components. Cheap insurance for longer life of the mod.
I tried using an infared thermometer to measure the external temp of an RX with, and without the thermal compound, but it was hard to see a difference. Being able to read internal temp would have told the story, but I have put the compound on both of the RXs now..lol
That's a good idea, I have a small tube of thermal compound from when I helped a buddy build his PC, gonna use some of that when I take mine apart (I intend to change the screen color with clear color overlay, so may as well add more heat protection too
).I noticed the other day at my buddies, when I was building some beefy coils for him, that the mod was getting alot warmer than normal (the batteries were perfectly cool, everything was within safe limits). I know after I dry-fire coils to adjust them, the RDA and mod get slightly warmer due to the radiant heat being produced, which is perfectly normal, but these were the biggest coils I've ever built and installed, so they were producing a shit-ton of heat (more than I'm accustomed too, which is why it stood out to me), which in turn made the whole mod relatively hot (not so hot that I'm worried, just more curious than anything). The build works perfectly fine, and doesn't heat the mod up now that it's been wicked and juiced, it was just when dry-firing them that it got hot, so I think it would be neat to see how warm everything gets after something like that.
Well, a lot more owners may be getting a peek at the internals, and a chance to add some paste.
JTech posted today that the use of long 510 pin attys (TFV4/SMOK specifically, longer than 4.6 mm) will void the warranty if it causes a fault with the RX 510.
Utterly dick move.
Look for FatDaddy 510 sales to pick up.
JTech posted today that the use of long 510 pin attys (TFV4/SMOK specifically, longer than 4.6 mm) will void the warranty if it causes a fault with the RX 510.
Utterly dick move.
Look for FatDaddy 510 sales to pick up.
Not to discourage you, but to get behind the board requires a lot more than the 4 screws required to change the display color.
That will require a lottle modification. The Realeaux 510. (RX and DNA use the same one)
Is the same advisory in effect for the Realeaux DNA200?
No worries there, I knew about that, it's not an issue for me, I'm used to taking small electronics apart to screw around with them. I was thinking of getting the body electro-plated or something while I do it, not sure what I wanna do yet though (it's a future project anyways so there's no rush). If I'm gonna take it apart, I might as well do it all at once. It was just a good reminder though to add Heat Paste while I'm in there.
I'm not sure, it was sort of breaking news/shit storm on Reddit.
As you say though, it's the same short-throw spring loaded 510.
Probably on the Cuboid and Presa 75 as well.
(The FatDaddy reference was a joke... I don't know the names of many suppliers. I have seen your (?) swap out job thread... did you go back in to clean up the edges?)
Here we go...
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/joytech-fans-not-surprising-at-all-actually.730574/
https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...c_indicates_tfv4_and_other_atomizers_damages/
http://imgur.com/tY7vA9Q
I haven't been to Wismec's site (it crashes my old lappy) so verification is in order.
That's my bad.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/joytech-fans-not-surprising-at-all-actually.730574/
https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...c_indicates_tfv4_and_other_atomizers_damages/
http://imgur.com/tY7vA9Q
I haven't been to Wismec's site (it crashes my old lappy) so verification is in order.
That's my bad.
Vapomizer
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Interesting finding, seems to work on all devices with the Joyetech RX board, tried it on the iStick TC100W 10 clicks from off state, temp was 32 after a couple minutes of chain vaping
No need to press ALL 3 buttons, just hold fire+down for 5 seconds while in off state for voltage reading
I have noticed that and mentioned it in a few threads before but people thought i was BSing, all Joyetech's 510s (RX200, Evic VTC, Cuboid, iStick TC100W) damaged by using tanks with long or protruding 510/positive pin.Well, a lot more owners may be getting a peek at the internals, and a chance to add some paste.
JTech posted today that the use of long 510 pin attys (TFV4/SMOK specifically, longer than 4.6 mm) will void the warranty if it causes a fault with the RX 510.
Utterly dick move.
Look for FatDaddy 510 sales to pick up.
I've been using the TFV4 on both of my RXs, and the DNA200 with no problems. Of the Realeauxs I've dissected, only one had a sticky center pin, and simply pushing it gentley up and down a few times fixed it. I suspect this is more fuckery than defect on Wismecs part.
Vapomizer
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I gave this a good thought and still not 100% sure how it happens, probably a mix of a few possibilities, a protruding pin pushes the spring loaded positive pin far enough to break the insulator underneath it, it also depresses the spring tight enough to the point of no return i also suspect some goes wrong with the internal soldering, the net result is a permanent damage in the form of Atomizer not found or Atomizer short errors or inconsistent resistance reading which keeps jumping around making TC functionality unusable.
In the pic, its hard to see, but the connecter is cast, not machined. They machine the casting externaly and internaly, and from the one I examined, it felt like a burr was on the seam inside the connecter. I believe the center pin is retained with a plastic circlip, which makes non destructive disassembly impossible. I suppose if the center of the circlip was imperfect, or the circlip was not fully seated in its internal recess, that might cause the center pin to bind as well.