Sub tank RDA issues

[Iamme]

I have had my subtank for about a month. I have been using the RDA for threeish weeks. I have never had an issue. This morning the ohms started bouncing. I figured ok the wire settled and the screws need tightened. The screws were snug. I said to my self this coils a week old I'll throw a new one on. I built a new coil. The ohms are bouncing between .5 and 1.5. Nothing is touching that I can see, the screws are tight and for the life of me I can't figure it out what it is. I do not have a lot of experience with kayfun type builds. I thought anyone who does may be able to help.

It seems to bounce .5-.9 99% or the time. It will be .7 for a few toots then drop to .5 then bounce to .9 ET.....

NNormally the build would be .8ish on other mods and that is what it was for the coils on it I the past. I'm using 24ga.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Iamme]

Shameless Bizump. I still can't figure out what is going on for the life of me. I have moved bumped and wiggled and loosened and tightened the screws. Sucks, this was my Mai. Vape for a minute.

 

[JediTT]

Im confused are you having a problem with a kanger subtank, a dripper, or a kayfun?

 

[UncleRJ]

What he said.

Not sure what you are using from your description of the device.

If it is a Kayfun clone, I have seen that before. Bad connector pin/insulator. Can be fixed by rebuilding the RBA by taking the whole thing apart and replacing all the insulators with a $5 rebuild kit.

Or just purchase a new $10 clone and be done with it.

 

[JediTT]

What he said.

Not sure what you are using from your description of the device.

If it is a Kayfun clone, I have seen that before. Bad connector pin/insulator. Can be fixed by rebuilding the RBA by taking the whole thing apart and replacing all the insulators with a $5 rebuild kit.

Or just purchase a new $10 clone and be done with it.

What he said.

&

Waiting for more info on the device..

 

[Iamme]

The issue is with my sub tank. Something is up because the ohms keep jumping around. The reason I brought up kayfuns is because the rebuildable deck on the subtank is similar to a kayfun. I got my first kayfun a week before my subtank. So I had not done many builds on it. So the deck on the Subtank is foreign to me. My mod is not a issue it is working with me drippers.

I put a build on the deck of my subtank. The ohms keep bouncing around. I fire it and I will be .9 then the next time I fire it it will jump up to1.5 then I fire it again and it will be 2.0. That is the issue. I have messed with the coil and screws in everyway possible. Usually if I have a similar issue with a dripper it is because a screw loosened, but the screws on the sub tank are tight. I checked the coil on the subtank to make sure it was not touching any part of the deck that it should not be to eliminate that it was a short or grounding out. It isn't touching anywhere. So now I do not know what could cause the coil to bounce. The coil I installed on the sub tank was wrapped on the same screwdriver that I would use to wrap a dripper coil. So I know it should be reading a solid .8-.9 because that is what the coil wrapped the same way would come out to if I installed it on a dripper.

I am trying to figure out why the coil on my sub tank deck is jumping around.

 

[Nitrowolf72]

Is this why Kanger was giving out free peek insulators for the rba deck? I seen a post on here last week for an issue for the rba deck and if you contact Kanger US they will send you a small and large peek insulator for free. I got mine the first of the week but I have never used my rba deck. You might want to check into that.

Sent from my LGL35G

 

[Iamme]

Is this why Kanger was giving out free peek insulators for the rba deck? I seen a post on here last week for an issue for the rba deck and if you contact Kanger US they will send you a small and large peek insulator for free. I got mine the first of the week but I have never used my rba deck. You might want to check into that.

Sent from my LGL35G

Could be thanks

 

[Iamme]

O his contacted kanger. Thanks. If it warped at all or anything like that, it could be the issue. Never thought of it and I didn't know about the issues or replacements.

 

[anendeloflorien]

Yeah probably the insulators. I emailed them about a week ago and they sent me two of the new style PEEK insulators. I still haven't tried them out but that sounds like why you're having issues! Good luck

 

[Clovinator]

The issue is with my sub tank. Something is up because the ohms keep jumping around. The reason I brought up kayfuns is because the rebuildable deck on the subtank is similar to a kayfun. I got my first kayfun a week before my subtank. So I had not done many builds on it. So the deck on the Subtank is foreign to me. My mod is not a issue it is working with me drippers.

I put a build on the deck of my subtank. The ohms keep bouncing around. I fire it and I will be .9 then the next time I fire it it will jump up to1.5 then I fire it again and it will be 2.0. That is the issue.

If the ohms are jumping up, then there is something not making good/solid contact. A bad insulator or a short would reduce the resistance (ohms).

Is it possible that the center airflow pin which secures to the insulated terminal from the bottom of the RBA head is loose? It unscrews rather easily on mine. I would check this for tightness. Also maybe you can try swapping in one of the occ coil heads to deduce a fault in the RBA portion.

Next I might suspect the spring loaded pin on the 510 not making good contact. Perhaps something needs cleaned or sanded?

I'm still trying to get over the reduced airflow of the 25mm subtank. Still shocked that my orchid v4 has a looser draw. Bracing myself to mod it and open up that airflow!

 

[Iamme]

If the ohms are jumping up, then there is something not making good/solid contact. A bad insulator or a short would reduce the resistance (ohms).

Is it possible that the center airflow pin which secures to the insulated terminal from the bottom of the RBA head is loose? It unscrews rather easily on mine. I would check this for tightness. Also maybe you can try swapping in one of the occ coil heads to deduce a fault in the RBA portion.

Next I might suspect the spring loaded pin on the 510 not making good contact. Perhaps something needs cleaned or sanded?

I'm still trying to get over the reduced airflow of the 25mm subtank. Still shocked that my orchid v4 has a looser draw. Bracing myself to mod it and open up that airflow!

What part are you saying could be loose? Do you mean the bottom post of the RDA that goes into the base that makes the connectio?

 

[MKPM]

The bottom pin that goes into the RBA head threading comes loose quite easily. That is what secures the positive post and it's base. Make sure once you have replaced the insulator that it is always tight.

 

[Clovinator]

The bottom pin that goes into the RBA head threading comes loose quite easily.

Yes! That part. Looks like you could feed a post through the airflow holes to torque it down if needed. I have the stock insulator and have had no problems like you mention (jumping resistance) on my IPV3.

 

[Clint Maas]

I used my RDA section on the mini for the first time today and it was making no connection. Found out that the spring loaded 510 on my vaporshark did not have enough pressure to press the pin on the subtank's against the RDA section. I was getting a good connection on everything else except the vaporshark. I'm hoping the subtank will loosen up in time (first day having it) and I can remove my patch. I know it's not the correct way to do this but I took a piece of Kanthal and made a wrap around and through the air hole on the RDA section. This pushed the internal pin down on the base and makes a constant connection.

 

[Teresa P]

Gotta resurrect this one because I've started having the same problems with my original sub tank.
I've noticed you can order a new pin from Kanger, but it's for the sub tank plus, not the original. Would it still work on the original?

 

[dre]

Gotta resurrect this one because I've started having the same problems with my original sub tank.
I've noticed you can order a new pin from Kanger, but it's for the sub tank plus, not the original. Would it still work on the original?

I think you can buy the whole base on fasttech for a few dollars still.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

 

[Teresa P]

The new pin is just $1.99 - with near $4 shipping, of course........gotta nail ya somewhere.

 

[dre]

The new pin is just $1.99 - with near $4 shipping, of course........gotta nail ya somewhere.

Like angelcigs I see the erl is $5 with $5 shipping ruins the deal. If it was $2 I'd go for it. $5 first class mail yeaaahhh they make up for the cheap price with shipping them sneaky bastard's.

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

 

[Teresa P]

I'd gladly pay it if I knew it would work. The only replacement decks on Fasttech are for the mini.

 

[Teresa P]

Well, I'm digging this one up again......On a whim, I just put the contact pin from my original Kanger sub tank in my sub tank plus and the pin from the plus into the original and they're both reading fine so far. Why would this happen?

 

[Hoekakes]

having this problem with my saucecode .. thinkin the insulator is jusr too thin or something