Subtank RBA Issue

[Johnny Hotsauce]

I just picked up 2 of the 25mm Subtanks from VapeNW since they had them on sale for $30 each, couldn't pass that deal up so now I have 3 total Subtanks, LOL, grabbed a Kayfun 4 clone as well (another awesome tank, love it!).

On the new ones I just got, my mods won't read the RBA however my ohm reader reads it with no problem. I just built a 1.5ohm single coil, checked out fine on my ohm reader, threw it on my SX Zero and it shows 0 ohms and "low res", then threw it on my IPV Mini and get "check atomizer".

Confused so I grabbed the other new Subtank, put the RBA deck on the other AFC base and same issue. Reads fine on the ohm reader but nadda on my mods.

Still confused and scratching my head so I threw the RBA deck on my original AFC base from my first Subtank and no issues, reads fine on the ohm reader and my mods read and fire it with no problem.

From there, I grabbed the stock .5 ohm non-RBA OCC coil to see what would happen and tried that on all 3 bases and no problems, check out fine on the ohm reader and fired on my mods...

So now I'm thinking I built a crappy coil and rebuilt 3 more, all beautiful Kayfun style 1.4 to 1.6 coils and the same problem on the new AFC bases but no issue on the original one.

I'm currently stumped. Anyone running into this? Oh yeah, to make things better, one of the new RBA tops that connects to the drip tip is a dud, crappy machining and won't fit onto the frame that the glass goes onto to. I freaked out and thought I got clones but the serial numbers check out fine on the Kanger site.

Sorry for the long novel but at this point, I'm hitting my head against the wall trying to figure out what's up...

 

[Dr3d]

I haven't had the experience with my Sub Tank, but ... the way back machine's chapter on swapping automotive motors taught me a lesson about resistance that may apply.

Resistance and resistance under load can be very different. It seems that the 510 bases on the $30 Sub Tanks may have a machining problem which is preventing a "good" connection to the RBA bases.

Sorry my RBA base is still in the box at home so I can't guide your investigation from here. I can look at mine tomorrow if you haven't figured it out by then. My boldfaced guess is a weak positive pin connection between 510 Base and RBA Base.

 

[Johnny Hotsauce]

I kind of thought that too about the weak pin connection so I grabbed my ZNA30 and turned the pin up as high as it could go without pressing too hard on the base and same issue, "check atomizer" and wouldn't read it.

I have a feeling it might be the actual RBA deck. I just pulled out the 2 other RBA decks in the new Subtanks and those checked out and fired fine so I have a feeling it's the original RBA deck that is the culprit... I'm no expert but everything seems find on that deck so I have no idea what the hell is going on, LOL.

 

[Dr3d]

When you read with your meter, are you reading at the 510 connection?

 

[Johnny Hotsauce]

I was checking at the 510. I'm still a newb to this as far as building goes so it's not out of the question that I'm doing something wrong.

 

[timreams]

check the positive block on the deck, especially the screw. also have you tried it with the beauty ring on it as well?

 

[Johnny Hotsauce]

check the positive block on the deck, especially the screw. also have you tried it with the beauty ring on it as well?

I actually ripped it apart again last night and rebuilt it for a 4th time and all is good in the universe now and the deck works on all 3 Subtank bases. Since I'm still a newb to building I probably jacked something up on those 3 builds and in this case 4th time was the charm

 

[Carp]

I'm having the same problem with mine. Ohms read at .52 on ohm meter and Works fine on my mech mod. Won't work on my sigelei plus or ipv2s

 

[_Vapor_Dragon_]

(For the rebuild base only) You could try and take a small allen wrench and stick it through the air holes at the bottom of the rebuildable portion and unscrew it a little bit at a time until it makes a more solid connection, I had a similar problem with my Sigelei. This solved it for me.

 

[Oggy]

When you are using the RBA head make sure to check the resistance with the chimney on to make sure you're not shorting out. That being said I have had a couple builds that checked fine but were arcing to the chimney, they had a VERY bad taste.

 

[BoomStick]

(For the rebuild base only) You could try and take a small allen wrench and stick it through the air holes at the bottom of the rebuildable portion and unscrew it a little bit at a time until it makes a more solid connection, I had a similar problem with my Sigelei. This solved it for me.

The pin with the airflow holes on the bottom screws into and locks down the positive block. Don't loosen it.