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Today I learned people use SS in power mode...
- Thread starter John C
- Start date
I’ve used SS316L quite a bit and never have used it in TC...just on my mechs. I used to just run parallel coils but then started building my Aliens with them and found an awesome hybrid of using SS316L Core Wires with N80 decor. Flavor is top notch...words like “crisp” and “clean” are used a lot and it’s pretty accurate. Saw another review about SS that said that it made fruit flavors taste less like flavors and more like the fruit, which is a bit of a stretch, but not by much. It was a bit off-putting with my alien builds with it and the hybrid alien builds I did that within a day of dripping I’d look and my coils would have turned a brownish red, almost copper, but it was just aesthetics and didn’t effect the taste any. As for the longevity of them as coils, I’m afraid I can’t give much info on that because I typically build a few days a week and swap out coils more often than most folks re-wick. I’d say go for it...especially if you like quick ramp up times and a warm moist vape.
Here’s an example of the color change I mentioned, just in case you are like me and looked down thinking “WTF?” and assumed something was wrong...it’s not the case.
You're not drinking water are you?! You realize that stuff is found in antifreeze!?!
Here’s an example of the color change I mentioned, just in case you are like me and looked down thinking “WTF?” and assumed something was wrong...it’s not the case.
You're not drinking water are you?! You realize that stuff is found in antifreeze!?!
Awesome, thanks for this info. Im definitely going to try it. I do love quick ramp up (we all do I suppose) but also warm moist vapor. So what is that color, oxidation? I wonder if its the same chemical reaction that causes the infamous reddening of wicks in some atomizers/juices.
I’m sure it’s something to do with oxidation, but as much as I asked around and researched, I didn’t get too far on the science of it all...there wasn’t a whole lot on the topic except for people saying it’s a common occurrence and nothing to worry about. I tried different manufactures and different coil builds on different atomizers (thinking maybe a copper atty was to blame, but it happened on my Stainless and Titanium atty’s as well). Using N80 decor slowed the process of the color change, but it ultimately changed. I don’t think it happened very often or even at all when I was just using SS for my Parallel builds, so, I’m sure there’s a scientific reason for all of it, but hell if I know what it is, lol.
You're not drinking water are you?! You realize that stuff is found in antifreeze!?!
You're not drinking water are you?! You realize that stuff is found in antifreeze!?!
Ohms fluctuate with 100% SS builds, but these days you can lock your resistance on your reg device and not care. SS is amazing tho only thing is it gets tricky to build certain builds for regulated devices with it because it's basically half the resistance of your identical kanthal build
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I've never built coils with kanthal, though pretty sure I've vaped a number of mtl coils that were likely kanthal. When I started building I wanted something versatile and found out ss could be used for both tc and vw so that's what I started building with. Tasted good to me so I stuck with it. It does have a lower resistance than kanthal so it can sometimes be a pain trapping leads depending on the type of post. Some posts are kind of sloppy near the point where the screws bottom out and a thinner 26 or 28ga wire may slip out.
I know there are all different builds, multiwire builds, thicker kanthal etc but even with triple core fused claptons using 3x28ga ss316 and 38ga ni80 it's still a pretty dinky coil lead vs most post holes. Can't imagine what the hell people are trying to clamp in there, 6ga copper maybe lol. As for coil life, I'm not an official coilologist or anything but I've been using the same fused clapton for 2mo and still tastes fine to me. I just pulse it when replacing the wick and rinse it under water, or wash with dish soap and rinse really well.
I know there are all different builds, multiwire builds, thicker kanthal etc but even with triple core fused claptons using 3x28ga ss316 and 38ga ni80 it's still a pretty dinky coil lead vs most post holes. Can't imagine what the hell people are trying to clamp in there, 6ga copper maybe lol. As for coil life, I'm not an official coilologist or anything but I've been using the same fused clapton for 2mo and still tastes fine to me. I just pulse it when replacing the wick and rinse it under water, or wash with dish soap and rinse really well.
I use SS .4 cleito coils. I have never used them in TC. I also use SS316 in my RTAs and rarely mess with TC.
use it all the time in tanks and drippers in power mode,
Every now and again i'll play the TC game but always come back to power mode.
Of course you don't have the option when using mechs ( most of mine are ) and to me the SS gives me a "Crisper" vape.
Kanthal isn't bad at all but to me SS is preferred.
Just me ,,,,, YMMV.
Every now and again i'll play the TC game but always come back to power mode.
Of course you don't have the option when using mechs ( most of mine are ) and to me the SS gives me a "Crisper" vape.
Kanthal isn't bad at all but to me SS is preferred.
Just me ,,,,, YMMV.
I have been using only SS for a while now. IMO it does have a cleaner taste and the second reasoning is I do like to use TC at times. Depending on the mod I am using and juice. So SS lets me vape like I want and I can change the mode and not have to worry.
Check me on this, but I'm fairly certain that if you use SS on a DNA device in power mode, it will continuously monitor the resistance for the duration of the pull and correspondingly adjust the power output to maintain the specified wattage. There may be other non-DNA chips that do this now, but in general most non-DNA chips will not continuously monitor resistance and thus will result in wattage declining throughout the hit as the resistance rises.
I believe its called "dynamic resistance".
I only use SS and its pretty much 50/50 on TC vs W.
I use both 316L & 430 (just make damn sure it's real 430) in mechs
I fell in love with SS long before TC supported it, it provides a very nice, smooth, clean and crisp vape. When TC support was available for SS I dove into it pretty heavy and found 317L IMO was better for TC. Anyway these days I rarely if ever us TC, just isn't my thin. I also primarily all Mech's also and what I really love with SS with Mech is when it heats up resistance rises a bit (just a few points) so essentially it's a natural power/pre-heat properties. Example when the coil is room temp it'll be like 0.15Ω but after a couple of hits when the coil heats up it'll be like around 0.17Ω or so.
Anyway I prefer 317L due to a bit higher resistance, not huge but a bit. I also has a bit higher corrosion resistance and seems to also hold up longer than 316L.
Anyway, I love SS and only on rare occasions Vape on Kanthal. As for Ni80, I can't stand it, I get a metalic taste.
Cheers
Anyway I prefer 317L due to a bit higher resistance, not huge but a bit. I also has a bit higher corrosion resistance and seems to also hold up longer than 316L.
Anyway, I love SS and only on rare occasions Vape on Kanthal. As for Ni80, I can't stand it, I get a metalic taste.
Cheers
Or for that matter pretty much any Joyetech chip running AF FW. You can even import the DNA curves into AF. there are a few variations on the algo theme as far as how they accomplish it, but all TC mods have to comparate resistance and convert it into power to extrapolate temp for a given TCR/coil combo.
^^^^^^this^^^^^^
I use SS anytime I may want to use the build in TC mode and use Kanthal if it's only going to be VW. I find no noticeable difference in how they vape. Once my Kanthal is used up I'll only be buying SS, or something better if there is something then.