Want help with my orchid juice whore

[Thatsnotnicotine420]

So I've got a Tobecco orchid V4 clone dual 26g 6 wraps .47 ohms. My problem with it is my 32mm TOBH RDA clone at .3 ohms goes through less juice than the orchid. Wtf. I was planning on throwing the orchid on the new 30w Eleaf istick for a conservative on the go vape but I don't want to buy a new battery if I have to fill the tank of the orchid more often than a dripper. Long story short, does anyone have any reccomendatik a for builds that won't burn through so much juice?


Unofficial Networks G.N.A.R.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

nope. get a kayfun.

 

[dork]

That's my exact build, and yes, it is a juice killer. To me it is worth it because it performs so well. All my kayfuns are in a drawer. I keep 4 orchids in daily rotation.

 

[Dr3d]

There is one really effective way to burn through less juice ... lower the wattage. On a VW device, you can do this by simply supplying lower voltage to the atty. On a mech, it means building a higher resistance coil which also results in reduced wattage. Your wattage is voltage supplied times amperage delivered. Increasing the resistance lowers wattage by reducing the amperage.

Regarding the lower juice consumption on the .3 ohm RTA build. This suggests you are driving it with reduced voltage. As the battery charge is consumed, the voltage supplied drops. And, as the voltage drops, the wattage is reduced and less juice is atomized.

I submit that on a regulated mod at the same wattage your .3 ohm build will consume juice faster. That said, if you are wicking with something that doesn't burn (ReadyXwick for example), the speed of juice consumption can be limited by the efficiency of your wicks juice delivery. If your wicking with cotton, you will know you aren't wicking fast enough 'cause you won't like the taste of burnt cotton.

 

[CaFF]

If it's filling you dislike, just get a Kayfun PMMA clear full tank and add it to the Orchid.



Then, it'll hold oh....around 4ml+

I use that with a Samsung 25R in my Chana30 and it lasts a looong time.

Although, I have mine running at 1.1 ohms with 18mg 20/80 PG/VG juice.

 

[MKPM]

What juice do you use in your Orchid....and don't call me a whore

 

[Taver13]

If it's filling you dislike, just get a Kayfun PMMA clear full tank and add it to the Orchid.

View attachment 12491

Then, it'll hold oh....around 4ml+

I use that with a Samsung 25R in my Chana30 and it lasts a looong time.

Although, I have mine running at 1.1 ohms with 18mg juice.

what gauge wraps and bit size u using for that build?

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

....and don't call me a whore

But no serious...how do we get these Orchid v4 to not leak out the air holes again?

 

[MrScaryZ]

IMHO all of the RTA orchid type blah blah need high VG if you are using 50/50 I know where your juice is going its leaking right out..
Im not suggesting any of them as I am still not happy with anyone of them even 90% I do like my Ehpro billow atleast with high VG it does not leak it has a deck just like a rda and the flavor is great but I actually used some lower vg level than 80+ % and it will leak no matter what I do not bad but some

 

[Hey! it's just Ray...]

I've lost enough fluid to buy a couple other better tanks I bet!

 

[CaFF]

what gauge wraps and bit size u using for that build?

IIRC, it's 10 wraps each on a 1.8mm bit using 30 gauge kanthal

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?s=dp&r=1.1&id=1.8&ll=3

 

[CaFF]

I highly suggest trying the @franciscan "mouse ears" method here: http://www.vapingunderground.com/th...famous-mickey-mouse-ears-orchid-builds.32290/

It just works and with no melted insulators.
The leaking is usually due to improper wicking and/or filling technique. Unless, you have one with bad QC and burrs in the threads...

I have two v4 Orchids from different vendors and neither leak at all.
Personally, I think adding the larger tank changes the dynamics in there, as they seem to leak less when modded, but YMMV.

 

[UncleRJ]

Dual Coil, Dual Wick.

Yep, its going to go through E-Liqid quick.

And in my experience you need about 25+ watts with a 0.5 ohm build to get it to really shine for you.

And I use the Kayfun Melamine tank as well for extra capacity. It will last me for a decent part of the day.

And yes, they are a PITA to fill until you learn how.

And they will leak if you lay them on their side.

But I am really digging the flavor and vapor enough to continue using it.

And I also use Kayfuns as well. About 50/50.

 

[MrScaryZ]

IIRC, it's 10 wraps each on a 1.8mm bit using 30 gauge kanthal

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?s=dp&r=1.1&id=1.8&ll=3

nice Im running my Billow at 3.35 ohms 24 guage and 65 watts only for custard flavor that I am on a kick for right now and its great flavor for some reason the custard takes on a new note with higher wattage strange

 

[MrScaryZ]

Dual Coil, Dual Wick.

Yep, its going to go through E-Liqid quick.

And in my experience you need about 25+ watts with a 0.5 ohm build to get it to really shine for you.

And I use the Kayfun Melamine tank as well for extra capacity. It will last me for a decent part of the day.

And yes, they are a PITA to fill until you learn how.

And they will leak if you lay them on their side.

But I am really digging the flavor and vapor enough to continue using it.

And I also use Kayfuns as well. About 50/50.

I agree the leaking of all the Kayfun's and derivitavies is made up by the flavor its awesome dual coils does eat alot of juice I will go through the 5ml in my Ehpro billow pretty quick but it tastes yummmu

 

[MKPM]

I highly suggest trying the @franciscan "mouse ears" method here: http://www.vapingunderground.com/th...famous-mickey-mouse-ears-orchid-builds.32290/

It just works and with no melted insulators.
The leaking is usually due to improper wicking and/or filling technique. Unless, you have one with bad QC and burrs in the threads...

I have two v4 Orchids from different vendors and neither leak at all.
Personally, I think adding the larger tank changes the dynamics in there, as they seem to leak less when modded, but YMMV.

I need to re-do the pics...I accidentally deleted them from Imgur. I will say that all of the leakage problems are wicking related. Trim your wicks only long enough to touch the build deck. DO NOT EVER put them in the juice channels...they need to touch the deck away from those, and away from the air holes. Secondly, when you prime the wick and coil...only MOISTEN them! You want to make certain that no juice is puddled around the air holes...this provides a way for juice to travel from the channels to that air holes......think of your windscreen on your car when it rains. Water attracts water...the same is true with juice. Like I tell people all the time...the wick is not a reservoir, it is a method of transporting juice to the coil(s).

 

[MKPM]

@CaFF has the coils just about perfect on his builds. The only things I do differently, is to offset the legs so the coil is perfectly centered. I also set my coils HIGH....and when I say high, I mean about touching the post screw heads....hence "Mickey Mouse Ears". Lastly...and this is unique to Orchid style builds....ONLY enough wick thickness to make good contact with the inside of the coils. On my RDA builds I tend to make the wicks fit quite snugly.

 

[MKPM]

Adding more airflow and juice flow increases juice consumption.....anyone that has used a supercharger on an engine can relate to the physics. The coil burns warmer thus atomising more juice.....increased airflow accelerates this process considerably. Last pro tip is to not fill the tank completely...leave about 1-2mm of space so the piston action of the juice flowing back to the deck when you turn the atty back to an upright position creates a solid vacuum. Beyond that...revel in the majestic wonderfulness of a properly built Orchid!!

 

[CaFF]

Thx Fran!

Filling is as simple as:

1. hold airholes shut, turn upside-down

2. take out fill-port screw, fill slowly with a dropper bottle or syringe as he said, leaving a bit of room for the vacuum. Don't try to rush it or it'll blow back up or past the wicks with the pressure created.

3. put screw back in

4. (optional step, but I do it) while still upside down, blow gently into the DT, then slowly release the airholes. you may get a bit of sputter at this point so have a paper towel ready, but that should be it.

5. turn right-side up and vape.

Seems like a lot, but it really isn't in real-time.

I trust mine enough to use it on a wood/brass mod, where leaking would be baaad:

After the Aquas and Fogger, this thing was pretty EZ really once I learned how to wick it.
I've never had a Kayfun or Taifun clone either. The only atty I found easier was the Erlkonigin.

Just an amazing atty that can be modded all to hell with KF parts and such. =)

 

[Tovar1sch]

I just recently switched to the @franciscan "mouse ears" method and it has made a world of difference. I get more consistent performance from my builds now.

 

[CaFF]

The only things I do differently, is to offset the legs so the coil is perfectly centered.

I need to practice doing that.
I've seen it done, but haven't quite wrangled the bends using a pair of needle-nose pliers just yet.

 

[Rhyno636]

Franco, I'm dying to see pics of your build. It sounds spot on but I need to see it to build it properly. Please refresh your pics.