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Won't reduce power even at 1 watt

ryanzurrin

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i am using the big dripped v2 with a dna75 therion, building with T1 for temp control, 26 gauge. Reading .3 ohm duel coil. It won't reduce the power no matter how low I put wattage it just screams and not sure if normal or safe to use anyone else have this problem ever?
 

HondaDavidson

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You do have the mod in temperature control mode correct..... that wire won't work in regular regulation modes.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

ryanzurrin

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Yeah it's got a setting for t1, it's the second set of coils that have done this on me didn't know if I am doing something wrong in my builds I'm going to try again fresh and see.
 

UncleRJ

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I have had that happen with mods in the past.

Try this.

Set the device to it's highest temp and hit the power button for a moment.

Then set the device to it's lowest setting and remove the battery and let the device sit for about half an hour.

Put the battery back in and make sure it is set to the lowest setting and then hit the power button and see what happens.

No promises but this has worked for me in the past.
 

HondaDavidson

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If the coils ohm rate is stable, and reading normal on stand alone meter or other mod. I would suspect the mod.
Does your device have an ohm lock and did you lock it?
Coil ID and wrap count?
Does it only mis-behave in Ti mode?
Have you tried if available the other TC modes?
Maybe the wire is NOT Ti? Your mod is doing what My Pico does when I fire kanthal or Nichrome in TC modes. or Stainless in Ti or Ni modes. Except my mod will switch over to VW automatically also..
 

ryanzurrin

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Titanium wire 26 gauge wrapped around a #25 jig 10 wraps and it reads stable .30. Going to try uncle rjs trick once my battery is charged. It only happens in t1 but not sure what other modes beside ni200 but I can't wrap good with that wire. I think I want to get a new mod set up soon kinda new to this what would anyone recommend? Are 200 watt machines worth having? And if so what one is best?
 

HondaDavidson

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The issue could possibly be the batteries... You should have more than 1 set... Are your batteries married? and reading pretty close to same volts EACH after use/charge.

I would keep the one you have....Assuming the mod is OK.... and the issue turns out to be a battery, build or atomizer issue. Unless you want a smaller device.. That is.
I have a 75 watt device, and I rarely fire it at above 20 watts. No reason you have to use 200watts. Currently running .33ohm ss coil at 380 degrees firing at 15watts.
Your device can fire and vape any atomizer you can mount on it at any ohm from below .2 to as high 3ohms. Granted at reduced max wattage at OHM rates above .35. o vape away with your .5ohm coil. Worse that happens is you get a bad taste and have to rewick. If you happen to fire at full wattage.
 

ryanzurrin

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yea you right I will fix the issue gonna order a new set of batteries now,what kind are best?mine now are parrelel 18650, 2500 mah, 3.6 volt. They are green. They are the ones the company recomended I think Samsung maybe. But should I get different and I'm going to buy a charger to charge them on too I only use charge and it take like 8 to 10 hours to get full charge.

So after charge it started working but after about 5 min got a funny not right taste, thought maybe I do a burn without drawing for a few maybe it go away but no so I think coils no good somehow no good. One did get red hot when doing my pulse before wicking so but after a fiddle worked ok but did have a scorched look differing from the other coil but seemed to work ok. So maybe it wasn't after all. Gonna build new ones hopefully they work. What do you use for tc?
 

ryanzurrin

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So I built another set using the same T1 wire and it did it once again; I can't control power or heat in t1 mode but when I switch it to nickel no preheat it works perfect. Did they maybe send me the wrong wire? That's all I can think of except the fact that in my so horny rba with a quad build using the same wire in t1 works fine but any time I run the wire through my big dripper v2 it don't work right maybe the big dripper don't work with t1, I don't know? But anyway thank you all for advice and help and I guess I'm going to run in in nickel mode for now.
 

NickIsANoob

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Those batteries are fine, batteries wouldn't cause this. It sounds like you figured it out it's not the mod it's the topper. Something about it isn't allowing it read the resistance properly.
 

ryanzurrin

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Yeah I can't get that t1 wire to work right in t1 mode but as long as it works in nickle mode I'll run with it. It's def odd to me. What do you use on a regular everyday basis?
 

HondaDavidson

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Probably not Ti wire then..... misspackaged?
Probably is nickel wire.
I use kanthal nichrome and stainless wire...... and combinations of those. I have been using mostly TC and SS lately but all my build can be run on my mech and in VW mode. Of course switching modes or mods might not result in a good vape. But useable.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Neunerball

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Yeah I can't get that t1 wire to work right in t1 mode but as long as it works in nickle mode I'll run with it. It's def odd to me. What do you use on a regular everyday basis?
What mod are you using?
 

ryanzurrin

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Evolve dna75 therion. It seems good but I am a Mac user so I can't use the escribe software but not even sure what you can adjust with it, I know the battery settings and stuff. I think they mispackaged my wire except for the fact I have worked with nickle and its so soft you can't build good and the supposed t1 has good springiness too it so its so strange when I build my next I will try again. Can I build a Clapton with titanium base and small nickle around that? What setting would you use on my device?
 

SirRichardRear

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Evolve dna75 therion. It seems good but I am a Mac user so I can't use the escribe software but not even sure what you can adjust with it, I know the battery settings and stuff. I think they mispackaged my wire except for the fact I have worked with nickle and its so soft you can't build good and the supposed t1 has good springiness too it so its so strange when I build my next I will try again. Can I build a Clapton with titanium base and small nickle around that? What setting would you use on my device?
Sounds like the wire or the profile itself in escribe is wrong. It could be a Ti profile but the material in it could be something else. especially if it only happens with Ti wire. as others said it could be the wire itself

If you choose to order more, I'd suggest not using Ti and instead going with SS (316l, 317, 420) Or Nife (nife48/52 or Nife70/30) Noth work in TC and wattage mode and Nife has a really great temp curve. SS doens't but still works amazing on DNA devices
 

ryanzurrin

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Just ordered some some new t1 and some ss also. Hopefully these new wires help iron out these little kinks. Thank you all for the great advice. I am going to buy a cheap laptop so I can update the firmware and start using the escribe software also. Has any of you used it before what does it allow you to adjust?
 

NickIsANoob

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Mac user here as well, you really need escribe to use a DNA. I got a free PC laptop from a friend to run escribe. You absolutly need escribe to properly set up a DNA device. It lets you adjust nearly everything.
 

ryanzurrin

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Ok then I will make that priority number 1 to get pc device to run escribe, didn't realize how essential a tool it was. I know that was a feature I wanted to eventually use but I will get that going asap, thanks again.
 

ShowerHead

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Ok then I will make that priority number 1 to get pc device to run escribe, didn't realize how essential a tool it was. I know that was a feature I wanted to eventually use but I will get that going asap, thanks again.
You can also run it in a virtual machine like VirtualBox.
If you don't have a valid Windows license, you can run a Microsoft Development version for free in a virtual machine.
Please note that these virtual machines expire after 90 days. I recommend setting a snapshot when you first install the virtual machine which you can roll back to later.

https://www.virtualbox.org/
https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/downloads/virtual-machines
 

ryanzurrin

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Thanks just bought a new hp laptop, escribe is way awesome and def gives you total control of everthing. Still having problems with the t1 builds, it's 26 gauge 10 wraps around a 20 jig. I think 2mm. It's dual coils in a big dripper, it seems too powerful, makes a louder hissing noise when firing so I don't know what I doing wrong or it just wire possibly but I can change the profile to nickle and get it to fire down a bit. It def not soft like nickle though it a good silver springy wire. It makes killer clouds if that's what I wanted but I like the middle road, good vaper production and a nice flavor left behind. Got so ss also, works great, not as fast a ramp up time as t1 but maybe that's just me still learning the new material. Thank you all for great advice and chit chat. Just got some new mxjo imr 18650 3000 mAH 3.7 v. 35A batteries and the mxjo digital 3 port charger, totally worth having, was just charging through my USB port before. Just finished charging, do I have to change anything on the mod or are they good to just pop in and go?
 

lordmage

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just to be sure it is said. Ti wire should never be fired to glow red or orange. if you see a white power on the surface of the coil dont use the coils it is unsafe.
 

ryanzurrin

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Yeah true that, I do know that also but never a bad idea to just drop that info on people new to Vaping. I have had them, usually just one side , glow while pulsing it in beginning. They instantly get a buildup of that unsafe whitish powder. You can absolutely taste when that happens, you take one pull like that you know it's not good right away. At least I did anyway, not sure the case every time. Ss coils can be glown at first though right?
 

lordmage

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SS coils are safe to glow
 

ryanzurrin

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SS coils are safe to glow
Good because I did.they seemed fine after, not like the t1 I've had shorts before or hot spots on T1 builds and as soon as it glows it forms a whitish coating over it. Once that happens you just throw out the coil, but I did when I built my first t1 try to use a coil after it glowed red, I mean I washed it off and used a small wire brush to clean off the white but when I hit it I could instantly taste something not right so I knew then that the coil was no good after it glows. Not sure if you've ever tasted that taste but it is nasty, you know instantly when that stuff is forming. As long as you don't glow them T1 coils I've found to have the cleanest taste so far and fastest heat up time. What kind of build do you use with your ss?
 

lordmage

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i stick with contact dual coils 2.5 to 3.0 ID depending on my mood and gauge i usually end up in the .5 range if i can simply for longer battery life. with regulated i don't focus on onhs and just try to get a even glow tween both. and equal ramp up.
 

ryanzurrin

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Sorry I am still just new at all this and not sure what contact dual coils are??? Sorry if stupid question. And what is the ID?
 

ryanzurrin

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Sorry I am still just new at all this and not sure what contact dual coils are??? Sorry if stupid question. And what is the ID?
Never mind I looked it up and realized there are two ways to build spaced or touching,"contact" , coils. I too build them contact but they sometimes if my posts are far apart will separate, creating more of a spaced look but still close but not touching would that be a spaced or contact?
 

lordmage

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Never mind I looked it up and realized there are two ways to build spaced or touching,"contact" , coils. I too build them contact but they sometimes if my posts are far apart will separate, creating more of a spaced look but still close but not touching would that be a spaced or contact?
i would call that a spaced coil with little space..
 

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