I've been doing a lot of reading up on mechs and know battery safety and ohms law pretty well. The only thing holding me back is the chance of exploding a mod... so I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips to make vaping a mech mod the safest it can be.. I currently use the smok cube x 2 with a dark horse rda so would it be a good idea to use a mech as well???
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tips on getting into mech mods??
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AndriaD
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A mech won't explode on its own. If you understand Ohm's Law and don't build coils at too low a resistance for your batteries to handle, you'll be fine. You should be aware that many batteries drastically overstate their amperage; nevermind the pulse amperage, you want to know the CONTINUOUS amperage, or CDR. You're best off with Samsung, Sony, or LG batteries. You should always leave plenty of "head room" -- don't build your coils right down to the lowest possible resistance. And make sure that whatever mech you choose has plenty of ventilation holes.
Andria
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would it be a good idea?
that's really dependant on what you want and why.
a regulated mod will be more consistent than a mechanical; but, a mechanical doesn't have any board or anything like that .
and you are safety feature, <REMEMBER THAT>
i'll tell you right now, this is the best deal in mechanical mods right now. this is a copper flagship, smoothest button iv seen on a mech, ultra low voltage drop, automaticly adjustable 510, and delivers. last year this mod was gong for 125$ its an American made authentic.
http://www.vaporbeast.com/smk-flagship-mechanical-mod.html
the one thing that It doesn't have is a switch lock, but the switch need some force to fire and will stand on its own with a tank without firing.
now, safe wise.. the best all around battery would be Samsung 25r, or sony vtc or sony vtc5
those are the only three I would trust on a mechanical, also make sure you have an ohm meter.
and one last thing, If you look at other mechanicals, try and stay away from hybrid top caps until you have a little experience under your belt.
best of luck dude.
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AndriaD
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This was one other thing I was going to mention -- if it doesn't have any type of lock, then while it may be safe to stand on end, DO NOT PUT IT INTO YOUR POCKET! Or anyplace else where the switch may accidentally get pressed, because mechs don't have the automatic shutoff that reg mods do, they'll keep firing until something is on fire, or exploding, or both -- fires HAVE been set that way.
And definitely stay away from hybrid caps!
Andria
Nothing to be nervous about.
Just DO your homework! Be sure you are getting REAL, and AUTHENTIC batteries. I do not recommend sony's as they expressly state their batteries are not for vaping. Use QUAILTY Samsung and LG's. with a MINIMUM of 20 amp continuous discharge rating.
DON'T forget to buy an OHM meter BEFORE you build on your mech. Keep your builds in the headroom of your batteries, and DON'T push the limits.
Mechs are simple and easy, providing you respect them.
Just DO your homework! Be sure you are getting REAL, and AUTHENTIC batteries. I do not recommend sony's as they expressly state their batteries are not for vaping. Use QUAILTY Samsung and LG's. with a MINIMUM of 20 amp continuous discharge rating.
DON'T forget to buy an OHM meter BEFORE you build on your mech. Keep your builds in the headroom of your batteries, and DON'T push the limits.
Mechs are simple and easy, providing you respect them.
Sony vtc4 are one of the best to use, their statement is nothing but a CYA for them.
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http://www.vapingunderground.com/th...-sick-clouds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/
I've spent some time compiling pretty much all of the tips on getting into mech mods (and why you would or wouldn't want to) in that thread right there. Take a look and let me know what other questions you have...
I've spent some time compiling pretty much all of the tips on getting into mech mods (and why you would or wouldn't want to) in that thread right there. Take a look and let me know what other questions you have...
There is nothing wrong with Samsung or LG batteries. If Sony's wants to distance themselves from the vaping community, good riddance then. I won't recommend them.
LG also makes a true 30 Amp continuous.
All good, except I do recommend Sonys with a caveat - the VTC series is the most-counterfeited battery in the world. Do your homework and order a VTC3 or VTC4 from a reputable vendor if you go this route - don't bother with the VTC5, regardless of what some people claim it's a 20A cell rather than the 30A 3 and 4 versions, and you can get a Samsung or LG at 20A much cheaper.
LG HB2's are another true 30 amp battery to look at. I have a bunch and use them on my mech's, as a simple rule I build my atty's with a 10% safe head room, for a 30 amp battery, that would be a max amperage draw of 27 amps. For a 20 amp battery, no more than 18 amps total draw using Ohm's law.
The biggest takeaway from any mech tutorial - structure your builds to leave a bit of headroom based on your battery's CONTINUOUS rating at full charge, NOT at its "pulse" (read: bullshit) rating at 3.7v.
Tips for the curious.
Inline volt meter. recommended not required but damned helpful
Ohm meter. If you build anything and do not test it for a short first then see below.
Fuck using a tank on it, fuck the hybrid cap.
If you put anything in your mech other than a HB2, vtc4 or vtc3, or samsung 25r... then you are too god damned stupid to vape, give up now and go play in traffic during rush hour.
If you insist on building on pulse then you are fucking stupid. Just fucking don't. If you insist then go play in traffic, light your self on fire or suck start a shotgun and save us all from yet another god damned retarded news story about how it just exploded.
Mechs and battery booms are like guns, they do not just go off.. it requires a fucking retarded fuckmo to make them explode or "go off"
Inline volt meter. recommended not required but damned helpful
Ohm meter. If you build anything and do not test it for a short first then see below.
Fuck using a tank on it, fuck the hybrid cap.
If you put anything in your mech other than a HB2, vtc4 or vtc3, or samsung 25r... then you are too god damned stupid to vape, give up now and go play in traffic during rush hour.
If you insist on building on pulse then you are fucking stupid. Just fucking don't. If you insist then go play in traffic, light your self on fire or suck start a shotgun and save us all from yet another god damned retarded news story about how it just exploded.
Mechs and battery booms are like guns, they do not just go off.. it requires a fucking retarded fuckmo to make them explode or "go off"
Seriously this is totally true, Don't fuck around with hybrid caps unless you're completely aware of the issues they bring to the table. You need a solid connection first and foremost. Without that you get shorts, shorts equal BOOM. A good battery is next, like all mechs the casing isn't the primary concern, the battery is, good connections are great, they're awesome, they're important, but with a hybrid cap you're taking out the 510 connection and replacing it with the battery itself and the mods own (for gods sake) protruding connection. More or less if you have questions about hybrid mods, you shouldn't be using them. It's not meant as an insult or anything of the sort, but simply plain fact, if you don't understand what you're dealing with you should not be touching it. The same goes for Mechs in general but even more so hybrids. The last thing we all want to see is another news story.
Stick to a solid mech build, stay at .2Ω or above and you'll be golden. Parallel mods can handle more than that but then comes the question of "do you understand what your limit is?" Generally speaking all mods have inherent power loss, the general rule of thumb is that while parallel in theory adds up amps you're best considering it a 50% gain. So 20amp cells X 2 in parallel = 30 amp cells, 30 amp cells in parallel = 45 amp cells, and even then you're kind of pushing it. CDR is hugely important because you never know when you might just fuck up, or worse your mod fucks up on you. You can get stuck firing mechanisms which are out of your hands, or you can have a mod fall over when you're not paying attention and then suddenly that pulse rating means nothing as you've entered continuous discharge.
Ramble ramble ramble same shit you're going to hear everywhere here. Mechs are no joke. Educate yourself properly and you'll be looking at them and not be concerned, but I know myself as a drunkard I still like my mechs but as soon as I hit that bottle. the batteries come out of the mechs and I don't touch them. Simply not worth the risks inherant to them. I still give them leeway. Now when I get home and start building on them I do "stupid" stuff, stupid because I know their unsafe, but I know what I can do, but at the same time I know when that becomes an issue, and I know what I need to do to protect myself.
Do your research is the best tip that can be given. Plenty of resources out there.
To each their own. I understand the curiosity regarding mechs, and the simplicity of the device can be attractive. However, if all you've known to date are regulated devices that have sub-ohm capability, you probably won't like mechs.
I personally never enjoyed mechs, as the vape changed considerably through the discharge cycle of the battery. Had to change the battery 3 or 4 times a day to get any semblance of consistency.
Follow the advice from the folks above, and you'll have the best mech experience.
Good luck!
I personally never enjoyed mechs, as the vape changed considerably through the discharge cycle of the battery. Had to change the battery 3 or 4 times a day to get any semblance of consistency.
Follow the advice from the folks above, and you'll have the best mech experience.
Good luck!
oh for christsake here we go agin with the flagship....
The lower you build, the closer you get to pushing the envelope, the closer you push the envelope, the more you need to know about every aspect of what your doing...especailly the limits of your batteries....low build leave little to no margin for error. get a mod with a locking ring.
If you want to push the envelope, either do it when you have more experince, or do it on a regulated device
If you want to push the envelope, either do it when you have more experince, or do it on a regulated device
I didn't plan on ever going any lower than a .3 .4 ohm coil and as for a battery i was looking into getting a vtc4 which is a 30a battery would that be enough for the type of coils i would be building?
Save this chart. These are battery test results by a fella who tests them independently and collects actual data on the batteries. Ignore the stats on the label like others have said. As long as you don't push the amp limits of your battery you should be fine. I would also build my atties on that regulated box, if there happens to be a short in the coils it could theoretically vent the batteries. Its plenty safe so long as you don't go pushing the rules
According to Mooch-the two safest batteries on the market now are the LG HB4 & LG HB6. Both can be bought from reliable sources without worry of being counterfeit. Cheers!!
Edit:
Sorry-that chart was incomplete
Save this chart. These are battery test results by a fella who tests them independently and collects actual data on the batteries. Ignore the stats on the label like others have said. As long as you don't push the amp limits of your battery you should be fine. I would also build my atties on that regulated box, if there happens to be a short in the coils it could theoretically vent the batteries. Its plenty safe so long as you don't go pushing the rules
According to Mooch-the two safest batteries on the market now are the LG HB4 & LG HB6. Both can be bought from reliable sources without worry of being counterfeit. Cheers!!
Edit:
Sorry-that chart was incomplete
Thanks for posting this.
Save this chart. These are battery test results by a fella who tests them independently and collects actual data on the batteries. Ignore the stats on the label like others have said. As long as you don't push the amp limits of your battery you should be fine. I would also build my atties on that regulated box, if there happens to be a short in the coils it could theoretically vent the batteries. Its plenty safe so long as you don't go pushing the rules
According to Mooch-the two safest batteries on the market now are the LG HB4 & LG HB6. Both can be bought from reliable sources without worry of being counterfeit. Cheers!!
Edit:
Sorry-that chart was incomplete
AndriaD
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My advice would be, check out those charts which the others have so kindly posted -- I didn't have those images or a link to them, or I would have. The guy who made them, Mooch, is a regular at ECF, and he's sharp as a tack on batteries, really knows his stuff and does all that testing for free; I hate that place but if you have any questions which you can't seem to find an answer for, go to ECF and PM him, or read his thread/blog.
I also feel kinda the same as freemind; if Sony doesn't want to play with vapers, fuck 'em; choose Samsung or LG batteries -- no reason for Sony to get one more thin dime from vapers.
If you aren't sure about a battery's legitimacy, or price, check out http://liionwholesale.com -- legitimate batteries at great prices, and a free battery box with every order -- I just ordered 2 LG HE2's (20A batteries), and the whole thing, including shipping, was less than $12. That's dirt cheap, for safety and peace of mind.
Andria
I use genuine vtc4s and i have dual nichrome coils at .12 ohms. I do not recommend building this low if you are not completely sure about what you are doing. But i have been vaping that consistently, and after considerable research on the battery can say i feel safe vaping it. However, it all depends on the battery. Forget the mod for a minute, and pick your battery before anything. Do your research. Know the limits of your batteries and how far they can be pushed and you'll be fine. Genuine Vtc4 will be more than safe at .3 ohms.
thank you for these charts!
And forget anything this stupid fuck wrote.
Darwin is stalking his ass like a cat does a bird..
He is a new story waiting to happen.
Continue insulting, thats a great way to go. My coils put out between 30 and 35 amps, as they fluctuate between .11 and .13. For a genuine vtc4 at 30 amps continuous thats perfectly safe, unless you plan on taking long ass drags. If you can handle a long drag on that build you have lungs of steal. Do your research before you insult someone.
I also made it clear that i dont recommend building that low. However, for the build he wants, the battery is perfectly safe. So your insults really have no basis. At the very least, i wont get cancer from cigarettes if i blow up.
Yup, pulsing you can go beyond the CDR however it's just not suggested and always a bit dangerous to talk about with new users. They hear you can do it and then think it's 'ok'. If you want to push things you have to properly handle it. Pulse it too much and it's bad news, get a stuck pin and it's a problem (disconnect it asap!) Anyways I don't want to get on a soapbox, just throwing it out there, it's not a bad thing to push the CDR rule hard, it may just save someone, though I am a fan of honesty that it can be pushed, just not a great idea. I'd also suggest the LG HB series over the VTC4s for pushing batteries.
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Hmm.... .11 using 4.2v needs a little more than 38A... so no, not really what I would call "safe". To be safe, using a 30A battery, the build really ought not be any lower than .16 or .17, because building it right down to the lowest possible resistance the battery can conceivably support is just dumb; you need to leave some headroom. I won't say it as profanely, but you really are just begging for the Darwin award.
Andria
One BIG thing to note, this is why mechs are a handful. At .3Ω you'll be at a safety rating of 4.2v/.3Ω=14amp, but realistically with voltage drop/battery slump you'll be at 3.7v/.3Ω= 12a * 3.7v = 45w. So if your coil needs more power it won't be a very good vape. Mechs drop your tools down to basically 1 thing, your coil. Proper coil and it's great, improper coil and you're getting either too week a vape or having too much wattage for your build. That's a big reason VW is so great, you can fine tune the build, get the right power for the build with a push of a button. I like my 26g core Fused Claptons ringing in at .22-.25Ω safe and solid. Lower is better but I don't have any parallel mods which I'll play with when I get one, but regulated for me until then for lower builds.
I appreciate you being a little more cival. However, no battery gives out 4.2 volts fully charged. Seriously, i implore you to research it. Battery sag for even the best battery is usually about 1/5 of a volt. That brings the voltage down to four, even fully charged. Accounting for voltage drop, on my mod will become between 3.8-3.9 from 4.0 after battery sag. Trust me, I've done my research. Knowing your mod is as important as your battery. That brings me to about 31-33 amps actually drawing power. For a thirty amp genuine Samsung battery, with hits less than five seconds (which honestly is almost impossible, it gets too warm to be comfortable) it is genuinely safe, as anything undwr five seconds is considered pulse. I'm not just pulling this out of my ass. I have done my research. Which is why i stress that anyone else does there. Know the battery sag, the mod you're using, and the build you have. Be safe, and do every bit of research you can. For me, with my vape style, my build is safe. However, do NOT build this low, as i have said many times, without knowing what you are doing.
And i agree, better to leave headroom if you are even remotely unfamiliar with any aspect of a mech. But you also have to account for voltage sag and voltage drop. Its all about the research.
You mean Sony right?
Literally just realized that. Lol yes. Although Samsung is good tooYou mean Sony right?
For sure, just not 30amp, 25r I'd actually feel quite safe pulsing at 30a but no higher, while it's rated 20amp it's been proven to be capable of much more and probably the safest battery out there. (PLEASE IGNORE THIS IF YOU ARE NEW!!!! do your own research then make choices for yourself if you want to push CDR ratings!)
AndriaD
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Well, it's good that you've done the research and the math, if you want to build that low. I don't build below 2Ω anymore, so it's just Steam Engine theory to me. I'm just concerned, as any vaper should be, about all these tales of "exploding mods," and as you see right from the initial OP, this idea that somehow "mech mods will explode." They generally won't, unless someone is using them improperly, or using batteries which aren't suitable for vaping at all, nevermind with the kind of amp draw that such low resistance vaping requires, or using/storing them in such fashion that the battery goes into thermal runaway and there are no vent holes.
I sometimes use the "unloaded gun" analogy -- a mech, before it has batteries in it, is just like an unloaded gun -- totally inert, though I suppose you could hurt someone if you bashed them about the head with it.
But put batteries or bullets into them, and it's a whole 'nuther matter entirely, and in the hands of someone who doesn't know how to use them safely, either could be lethal. Despite that batteries are so ubiquitous to modern life, people don't seem to grasp that what they contain is stored energy, and in the case of vape batteries, like car batteries, a WHOLE LOT of energy; if it all gets released at once... that's not pretty and nobody wants to see that, least of all the person who's just try to get a good vape and those around that person.Andria
Agreed. Which is why i stick with the vtc4. Haha. Im sure a Samsung could handle it, but my stupidity only goes so far, and i refuse to risk it. I know my vtc4s can handle my vape. These damn things dont even get warm. And while id love to build lower, like some idiots i know who go down to .06, my build vapes good, so no reason to risk blowing up just to say i have a ridiculous build.
Awesome analogyWell, it's good that you've done the research and the math, if you want to build that low. I don't build below 2Ω anymore, so it's just Steam Engine theory to me. I'm just concerned, as any vaper should be, about all these tales of "exploding mods," and as you see right from the initial OP, this idea that somehow "mech mods will explode." They generally won't, unless someone is using them improperly, or using batteries which aren't suitable for vaping at all, nevermind with the kind of amp draw that such low resistance vaping requires, or using/storing them in such fashion that the battery goes into thermal runaway and there are no vent holes.
I sometimes use the "unloaded gun" analogy -- a mech, before it has batteries in it, is just like an unloaded gun -- totally inert, though I suppose you could hurt someone if you bashed them about the head with it.
Andria
For a newbie. No your low retarded ohm bullshit is just confusion.
And your calculations of what you are actually pulling are way off. You are pulling 32-40+ amps with zero headroom for when shit goes south.
But keep your head wedged in your smug hole, spouting stupid shit to a newbie.
Some of the "well learned" new people here, forget something too....
Using your battery at FULL cont. discharge rating (and into the pulse rating) stresses the SHIT out of the battery. It weakens the cell.
Sooner or later, the cell is going to vent.....
Using your battery at FULL cont. discharge rating (and into the pulse rating) stresses the SHIT out of the battery. It weakens the cell.
Sooner or later, the cell is going to vent.....
going completely off topic lol but it'll now be an even longer wait to get into mech mods now that someone has stolen my vape out of my car lmao but again thank all of you guys and gals who have posted this information has been great and i've learned a lot more than i thought i had already known!
Sucky sucky, get another regulated for now?
Hey, my favorite regulated is my sigelei 150tc. Not too bad on price, powerful, and definitely no risk of blowing up
yeah that's what i was going to do.. or i might just take all the info I've been given and just get a mech now
hey may have to pick that up! I really like the way the sigelei's lookHey, my favorite regulated is my sigelei 150tc. Not too bad on price, powerful, and definitely no risk of blowing up
AndriaD
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Sigelei makes great stuff. I've got a couple of Sigelei Zmax's; one was used very hard for about a year and still works perfectly; got another that was PIFed to me that's never been used; I keep it as a backup. Being such a low-wattage vaper, a 15w mod is just fine for me.
Andria
Andria
i really enjoy the 30-40 watt vape range but do like to crank it up a notch every now and then
AndriaD
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i really enjoy the 30-40 watt vape range but do like to crank it up a notch every now and then
I'm one of those tootle puffers that people like to make fun of -- that's ok; I can make 40ml of ejuice last over a week, and a battery last a whole day or even two.
Andria
Good lord, i wish i could last that long. I go through probably ten ml a day...I'm one of those tootle puffers that people like to make fun of -- that's ok; I can make 40ml of ejuice last over a week, and a battery last a whole day or even two.
Andria
Or the simple sigelei 150 non tc.
Rock solid box that has been abused by me over a year now and still chucking the fog.
This times a million.
If you are gonna get into mechs, then get a battery case or 2 and when you arent using the mod, take the battery out and carry it in the case. Just 2 weeks or so ago some idiot working for my company threw his mech mod into his messenger bag and almost burned the whole building down. He didnt take the batteries out and it didnt have a switch lock, so something pressed the switch in the bag and it fired until it caught fire and burned half the office down. It happens, and it CAN happen if you arent safe. Personally I wouldnt even trust a switch lock, Id always take the battery out when not in use. Mechanisms fail, its just a fact of life, so dont even risk it imo.