

I don't think I'm all that rough on mods!You Sir, are hard on mods.Outside of self inflicted marks (beveled bottom edge) all I can find is one nick on the silver one. The threads benefit from some lube. I used powdered graphite, but I know there are aluminum specific lubes available. I put the fire button on first, just to the point that it snugs up to the battery. Hybrid cap on the atty first then snug that up. Not necessary and probably a bad idea to use a tool ie; screwdriver, coin, etc. Avoidance of cross threading is paramount, but not insinuating you do that lol. The threads on these two look perfect, but between the two of them batteries only get switched about once per day. I do use some of my other mods from time to time also so they don't feel neglected, which of course is contributing to the NC longevity.
I've been thinking about making some kind of clip to lock it. Should be able to take a stiffer wire, make a big loop around the gap in the button, and then pinch it off and have 2 overlapping hoops that I could toss something in to lock it on. Might be a bit of a pain, maybe just interlocking hoops, either way seems like something that could be done. I have a picture in my mind, I know I've seen similar things for some tube clamps that are supposed to be easy to take on and off. Anyways, that's my thought and I might give it a go tonight.
Very good idea, one issue is that it doesn't fit snug in there so good chance of it falling out and then the battery, however! we have 3d printing now... when I stop being lazy I think that'll be the best option (been thinking of a few) just swap that button portion to a screw top button, boom it's secure, no contacts, just flip it and you're ready to go.I flip the button around so that no contact can be made to carry it.
![]()
Whatever someone can do to make a locking mechanism is great. When I flip my button around, it screws in upside-down and while I suppose it could unscrew while I'm moving, I haven't had any issues yet.
To be honest, I don't carry any mods in my pocket. I usually use one of those geeky phone cases that attach to a belt loop or in a small case tossed in a bag. With a dripper, I carry one of those stainless steel unicorn bottles clipped to my belt and with my keys also clipped there. It's getting a little ridiculous, I jingle so much everyone can hear me coming a mile away.
Very good idea, one issue is that it doesn't fit snug in there so good chance of it falling out and then the battery, however! we have 3d printing now... when I stop being lazy I think that'll be the best option (been thinking of a few) just swap that button portion to a screw top button, boom it's secure, no contacts, just flip it and you're ready to go.
I don't think I'm all that rough on mods!
The a-mod smpl that I've had since they came out isn't all that different... ...but I never clean it or lube it and in a couple of years of heavy use, the threads are still straight butter and they never lock. There are no imperfections whatsoever. That mod, I've been much rougher on than my crickets, which I swear to you I baby.
I do all of that with my crickets except for the lube. I never really looked into it. My fear is that it will mix with juice that trickles down and gunk it up. I just keep everything clean instead. My NC's are my main mods though. I hardly ever use anything else. Sometimes I break out my smpl or toss a griffin on top of my sig 150 TC but that is pretty rare. I'm not trying to argue, I'm just saying I do put in the time and effort to avoid damage. I think they just don't hold up all that well to heavy use.
I often wonder why the thread size and pitch are so fine. I haven't seen too many mods with threads that small on parts with such a wide diameter. That's gotta contribute something. It just necessitates finer tolerances and puts more strain on them. You're subjecting finer, more brittle/malleable points to the same friction as a part with wider threading. Larger, wider, and deeper surfaces would distribute the force better.
It frustrates me when manufacturers neglect little details like this. They seem minor, but they can make all of the difference. And the thing is, it really doesn't cost more to make mods with better designed parts. It can't be that expensive and time consuming to have a specialist go over the design and tweak things like this for longevity. The wider threading has to be easier to machine, too. This smpl clone was 35 dollars domestic when I bought it, so it's fair competition. Compare the threads on the two button housings...
![]()
Look at how wide and deep the smpl's threads are compared to the cricket's. Note the pitch as well. The housings are roughly the same size, too. One has held up for two years with maybe two cleanings lol. The other will be beat-up in 6 months. The picture doesn't show it too well, but there are clumps and strips of black gunk in the smpl button... ...and yet, it is still smoother than that fairly new noisy cricket button. It will probably still outlast the cricket button, even with a couple of years on it. You'd think it was ratchet just looking at it, but if you screwed it in without looking you'd swear it was new! Doesn't take nearly as many turns to remove, either...
a judicially applied dry lube really helps.Yup noticed that right before bed last nightI thought that first too when I just flipped the button and sat it in there. I was like "this shits just gonna immediately fall out" then I screwed it in and felt like an idiot lol
All the more reason to use different materials.Jist yankin' yer chain a little. The fine thread pitch is unfortunately a byproduct of the aluminum material used. Aluminum will not hold up with a coarse thread. But not toa judicially applied dry lube really helps.

What color?Not a fan of the noisy cricket. Used it once and sits on my desk since then
Jeez Chef, aren't you busy with your new Dripbox And how many crickets does on man need?
BlackWhat color?
Was thinking the same thing, till I realized the rafale x is 24mm
I'm running Petri 1.5 clones on mine and I love them. Only rocking single 316L clapton on them and flavor is outstanding.Was thinking the same thing, till I realized the rafale x is 24mm
Petris and alien builds are like a marriage made in heaven. I highly recommend the combo.But speaking of Petris and you being a coil guy, best flavor build? I
Pick me pick me!!I have a black and a gray, but I traded my silver. The Dripbox is nice, but I may just turn around and PIF it, too. The build deck is quite small, as are the posts and post holes. I don't think even a fused Clapton will fit in it, and the posts are small in diameter, so there's no room to drill out the holes.
And it comes in white to match! Okay, I'll probably give it a shot. All my $$$ is tied up in group buys (and bills) right now, so maybe by the end of the week.might want to try this atty on it.
Damn, my Ivogo Velocity clone came with one. Last thing I need is another mod, but I've never had a bottom feeder.... dammit!For the dripbox there are a slew of decent BF attys. Its a good beater without the atty it comes witj. Lowpro has a BF pin, velocity mini, origen zenith 2.5 and maybe the best hobo v3 has a BF pin available.
For the dripbox there are a slew of decent BF attys. Its a good beater without the atty it comes witj. Lowpro has a BF pin, velocity mini, origen zenith 2.5 and maybe the best hobo v3 has a BF pin available.
http://www.angelcigs.com/hobo-v3-style-rebuildable-atomizer-rda-white-extra-bottom-feeding-pin.html
And it is white Chef.
Damn, my Ivogo Velocity clone came with one. Last thing I need is another mod, but I've never had a bottom feeder.... dammit!
That Uwell RDA looks like it may be the next on the list!My bad, did not notice bf pin included before. I hear ya, the number of drippers I have is getting out of hand. But I'm easily persuaded to try another if there is any plausible reason lol. At that price will probably have to add to the herd. Thanks for the link.
I flip the button around so that no contact can be made to carry it.
![]()
Man, that is hard for me to fathom.
Back then, I would've laughed if you told me that any of the shit we're using now would exist today... ...all while puffing away on my kanger t3 and spinner battery. That wasn't that long ago. 4 years at the most. Now, people are getting up and running with this inconceivably well-evolved and increasingly specialized tech in a matter of months.