I JUST bought a Griffin TODAY. Get to where I can start working on it and one of the hex screws on the deck appears to have been tightened by a gorilla. I seem to have now stripped that one screw and cannot get it loose. So what the heck do I do now?
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Griffin help
- Thread starter gtrovil
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Rabbit Slayer
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Return it and get a new one
I agree with rabbit slayer. If its in there that tight and you can't get it out I would see about getting it replaced.
Rabbit Slayer
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Do they work on tiny screws under 2mm?
Scratch88683
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Did you buy it from a local store or online? Usually local stores are pretty cool with replacing faulty products but the online ones can be a pain't in the ass.
I was just suggesting in case you see a problem getting a refund/replacement, sometimes can be a hassle. They'll work on the Griffin grub screws, might be hard finding them that small, try a local hardware or online/ebay?
You can use a tooth pick to get the JD Weld in there. A trick I learned from my other hobby (R/C collective pitch Helicopters). However, you still need to get the right amount in there. Another option would be a suitable high quality Torx screw driver. Usually they are kind of cone shaped, so you could use a "larger" size driver. With some luck, you can unscrew it that way (more teeth to sink in).
That's another reason for having high quality hex drivers, rather than using those cheap hex wrenches they sent with the Attys.
Where can I get a set?
I'm using sets of Wiha hex, Torx drivers, that I originally bought for my Helicopters (6 various sizes). The hex screws on those vary from 0.7 mm to 5 mm. I got the metric drivers from Amazon. However, you could also check out the online R/C Hobby shops (e.g. Helidirect, Amain) for some high quality drivers. Just don't forget (in this case), you get what you pay for.
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roxynoodle
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The Griffin uses a 1.27mm driver. Buy a nice ball end screwdriver type. Ebay is a good place to buy one.
I don't recommend ball end drivers, due to the ball ends, you can easily strip a bolt.
Got it at a local shop and one reason I haven't responded is that I just ran out and took it back. While I was there I insisted that the exchange be taken out and the hex screws looked at. Guess what? The guy at the shop stripped 2 different tanks screws while I was there. I got the black one and 3 different brand new tanks had at least one screw that a gorilla screwed in and the hex grubs stripped out. LOL! Anyway finally got one that we backed all the screws out a bit and I went on my way. I'm at the office still so once I got back I slapped a build in and used scottish roll for wicking and am merrily vaping away. UNTIL I notice that the JC is weird on this one and just spins around AND the AFC is a bitch to open or close. Great vape but apparently this is going to be a project. lol
The JFC is a problem spot on the Griffin. There's a thread here somewhere with a fix for the problem. It was posted by @conanthewarrior, maybe he'll chime in on that.
roxynoodle
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Yeah, their QC has been questionable. My silver 22 is hard to turn, while the black is too loose. My 25mm is the best.
BTW, for future consideration, when running into a problem with stuck screws (of course, assuming high quality drivers being used), either apply heat (a torch, not a good choice for Attys though), or cold (freeze for 1/2 to 1 hour). Applied physics! However, use care, in order to NOT burn your fingers/hand!
An occasional spanking by my parents kept me in line! Thanks. I considered those options however it appeared to me to be a lost cause. I also considered tapping a small flat blade in there to make a crease if you will. Then back it out with the flat blade. I had several options rolling around in the brain until I just said to myself "Screw it! I'm running it back over there before I make it worse." heh
I just thought it comical that the guy at the shop screwed 2 different brand new sealed tanks up doing just what I had done. and he had given me this look when I told him why I was back. LOL!
I just thought it comical that the guy at the shop screwed 2 different brand new sealed tanks up doing just what I had done. and he had given me this look when I told him why I was back. LOL!
Hello buddy. U can send an email to [email protected] (customer service center), we have specific staff to deal with this issue. They will send u a replacement.
Very cool that you are here and watching threads like this. So for starters I took the original Griffin that I had bought back to the shop that I purchased it from and they exchanged it. However, the new problem with the new tank is that the juice flow control spins around fairly freely while the airflow control needs effort to budge. The consensus here amongst the forum folks is to remove the bottom pin and tap the deck downward...forcefully. So you Geek Vape folks are good with this fix?
#Edit - I just noticed that didn't make sense and fixed it.
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Small update before I nod off. The AFC appears to have just needed to be worked some and adjusting it is becoming much easier. Still don't like the way the juice control turns when you grasp the glass tank section. Been vaping it heavily and mostly pleased. It's been a journey though. Lol
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I had the exact same issue with one of my grub screws being jammed on a brand new deck (SS 22mm Griffin). I did strip it out using the hex wrench that came with the Griffin. I contacted their customer service and explained it and they mailed a new build deck. This one seemed to have the same issue but the grub screw came loose after some torque. I believe this last batch may have had several of the same issues based on feedback from the vaping community. But geekvape stood behind their product and were quick to help me. I plan to purchase the 25mm next.
Hello. For any product problem, u can send an email to [email protected]. Contact them and they will send u a new deck.