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micro coil frustration

notsure

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Is there a trick to keep a micro coil from separating when installing? I typically do a 9/10 wrap on 3/32" drill bit and frequently end up with the coil separating when pushing the wire through the posts. I know they need to be placed a bit further away from the post to keep this from happening, but no matter how far away I attempt to install I still end up with the separation too often.
 

tick22

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Welcome to my world. I just fire them loose and try again on the next build. Good thing loose coils still work...

ok, experts, what do we do????
 

notsure

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Yea I can usually get it straightened out that way, but it never fails when building a dual coil I end up with one that's perfect and one that's jacked up.
 

pdxvapes

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It may be too much hassle, but I like to bend joints to the leads before I mount them.You can put kinks in your coil leads with a pair of pliers so that the long lead legs aren't straining as much to thread in close to your posts.
Here is a picture of what my coil looks like before I thread it onto my deck;
Kinked.png
I also try to bend an elbow as close to the coil at both of the leads, as to center the coil as best I can off of the two separate leads. I wrap my coils with the leads coming off opposite ways of the drill bit, as though it were going to go on a Kayfun, and the bend the elbows to line the legs up;
Opposing Leads.png
Leading Elbows.png
Those are the titanic ass pliers I'm using to do this sort of delicate kinking, so do yourself a favor and find some nice little ones and you can make them ten times cleaner! Best of luck, and keep vapin'!
 

notsure

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Thanks pdx. Great tip. Think that will be a big help in preventing that problem. I'll let you know how it works out for me.
 

CaFF

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A nice thing with contact coils (aka micro) is you can have fairly long 'legs' and no issues except perhaps some minimal vDrop.

Check these out....

tWBYuRpl.jpg


That's on my Fogger v4. They work just fine.
 

Garemlin

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I always heat my wire before wrapping to make it a little more rigid. Then I make a tension coil. Pulling it really tight and keeping firm tension as I wrap it. It helps keep the wraps close. After I install the coil I fire and squeeze a few times with tweezers.
 

4redstars

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I'm just starting but I wrap it, then squeeze it and torch it between the tweezers or pliers. Once on the rda/rta, I fire it again and squeeze it again with tweezers or pliers.

I've got a lot of practice to do but it seems to be an pretty good way.
 

not2coolguy

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torching even before wrapping your coil will help to take a lot of the spring out of the wire. Its also much easier with lower gauge wire as it is much more rigid
 

UncleRJ

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I always use a Bic lighter to heat my Kanthal before wrapping a coil.

It removes the springy element of it, makes it easier to work with and then you can take a torch to it and give it a pinch before you install it.

Then use your battery to heat it up and give it a final pinch before inserting the wick.

And lets face it, playing with a torch is always fun:D
 

Garemlin

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I always use a Bic lighter to heat my Kanthal before wrapping a coil.

It removes the springy element of it, makes it easier to work with and then you can take a torch to it and give it a pinch before you install it.

I do this too. Just make sure after flicking your Bic that you wipe the wire. Using a regular lighter leaves a carbon build up.


Tap'd from my LG G2
 

UncleRJ

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I do this too. Just make sure after flicking your Bic that you wipe the wire. Using a regular lighter leaves a carbon build up.


Tap'd from my LG G2


Actually, I had never thought of that:(

Thanks for the tip!
 

MacTechVpr

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There is an easier way crew…one that'll get at least 20% more vapor and put proportionately less strain on your batt. Better still it takes about 20 secs to wind, requires no torching and wants to be a coil. So a lot better chance of surviving an installation intact. In other words, about 60 seconds to firing. Bad side is, a girl can do it better than you…if you let 'em.


IMG_0805a.jpg


Good luck.

:)
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

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Looks like the bottom of a temco kanthal spool. I'm guessing you wrap while attached to get a straight and tight coil? Just my guess. I tend to leave the spool attached to the end wrap to use the weight of it hanging for the same purpose. Mine never look that good, though.
 

UncleRJ

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Me, I am going to be patient and wait until he gets back to us on the subject.

Perhaps it is taking a bit because he has an actual life:eek:

Me, I just spend my time playing in traffic.

Badly since I am still here:p
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks fella's for all the interest and curiosity. And you're right I'm short of time.

Super_X_drifter on ECF last spring conceived of and later coined the term popularly in use all over the internet for the continuously shorting contact coil…or as more commonly known in the vernacular, the microcoil. I was on the Apple Mac launch team in '83 and an avid advocate of electronics most of my adult life. Unfortunately my success did not include quitting smoking having failed 8 times. I got a bit curious as the technology finally seemed to hit prime time with the above. Did quit finally thanks to Blu and decided to see what I could do to improve the electrical circuits. Well it seems the light bulb had been invented but somebody needed to flip the switch. to fully turn it on. So I figured somebody had to do the dirty work…and I did.

In Mar I introduced the Tensioned Micro Coil on super_X's thread which relies on the physics principle of strain (or tension, stretch) to create the coil. There is no torching or resulting turn interruption (except for wire imperfection), it takes seconds and the element pulses into existence usually on first fire to permit as perfect a fusion of the alumina oxide layers that result from firing as nature will allow. The reason quite simply is that tension allows you to reach a state of adhesion between the turns or as close as two things can fit tightly together. Precisely what you need to get inter-turn fusion of the alumina layers. And then you see "the effect". A condition which results in upwards of a 20% increase in efficiency (work, vaporization) in our coils.

Short answer: About as perfect a microcoil as science and a much simpler method can provide.

I've written 1400 pages on ECF largely on the above and advanced building methods for consumer tanks including observations from related wicking media studies. I'll try to ad some more concise examples here. My goal is to try to expedite adaptation for new users so they can quickly join the vaping lifestyle and enjoy the abundant diversity of products and juices that we do.

Thanks for the interest and hope as many of you will join to try these techniques and teach others as I've had the pleasure to see and share in on ECF.

Good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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I suffer from hypergraphia…I do…I do…I do…I do…I do…I do…

:D

Vaping just seems to complement that outstandingly.

Good luck. Mind those tight coils.
 

MacTechVpr

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I'm waiting for his next post to be a link to a webpage that says "For just 9.99 you can download my ebook "Rolling coils like a god" where you can see my awesome techniques nobody else uses!"

Cryptic much?

Anyway, thought I'd get back to ya Jeep. Does the above pic I posted look like something created by a poser? Could you do one in 15 seconds that stayed like that (without torching)? Just sayin'. I wasn't cryptic. I described the adaptation of another branch of physics. I can tell you a considerable amount of time and other resources were spent to establish that it worked reliably, predictably and wasn't going to waste your time. The picture does say a lot about what you can expect…if you use a little imagination.

Given the number of these I've created and the probable numbers the thousands that have learned to do this so far suggests it is a very effective art. Methods of applying it, that's a different story. Maybe you'll contribute one. At least that's been my hope and many are using the adaptation to come up with new and varied techniques themselves.

One of the first to apply the adaptation was super_X_drifter on ECF who had the guts to put it all out there and hazard the skepticism. I read his stuff carefully before I quit and joined the forum to perfect the mechanics. Here's his second video. A good effort but it doesn't adequately show how to reach the point of adhesion. He definitely gets there though towards the end…




My primary purpose in doing this was to create the means for newcomers to transition quickly to the vaping lifestyle and bypass the gauntlet of devices and failed solutions many of us go through. Sometimes for years. As a community we have a lot of challenges from our opposition. I am confident this may help improve our chances by improving the numbers.

I hope you'll join me in my efforts popularize this innovation once you see the benefits. A minimum of 20% efficiency advantage translates to a very good vape in and of itself (and rich dense clouds too if that's what you're chasin'). Being able to reproduce it reliably is priceless.

Good luck.

:)

p.s. Thanks super!
 
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MacTechVpr

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A nice thing with contact coils (aka micro) is you can have fairly long 'legs' and no issues except perhaps some minimal vDrop.

Check these out....

tWBYuRpl.jpg


That's on my Fogger v4. They work just fine.

Thanks for your like Caff. Nice set. Love duals. A bit hard to master in getting the balance. It's about symmetry. Disparity in resistance gets you an uneven vape and often spoils the build. But I gotta tell ya it couldn't be easier with the tensioned m.c.'s I'm talkin' about. There is just enough precision in the human hand to tell exactly when adhesion happens. Then the coil behaves like a screen door spring. It wants to be a microcoil. Unlike a coil that was forced into its shape by external energy, it had the energy and shape imparted to it internally. Net result it's about as uniform as it could be (so long as you don't trash it too much setting it). When you pulse it that's when the magic happens. The alumina oxide layers which insulate this continuous short occur coherently forcing a fusion of the layers turn-to-turn. Except for imperfections in the wire it's as perfectly tight as it can get. What's that mean for resistance? Well for one, predictable. And that reproducible outcome means you'll get a lot of sets that fire microcoil the first time and together. Those are the kind of odds I like.

Tap me on the shoulder anytime if you give it a try and need a shout out.

Good luck.

:)

p.s. Speaking of hot legs…here's a pair of twisted-lead parallels I did this evening. Twisting stabilizes the parallels which are fidgety to begin with and helps deter shorting. Makes for an easier install. You'll have to wait for surprise on performance when you tension a wind and try this…


IMG_1102a.jpg
 
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olderthandirt

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FWIW
Treatises from MacTechVpr are worth their weight in gold, well, least-a-ways the time to read em' (-;

Read his take on the tension coil at ECF early on, it made perfect sense.
Works exactly as advertised, simple, reproducible coils.

Nothing fancy, no gimicky jigs, no torching before hand, simply works.
 

CaFF

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Thanks for your like Caff. Nice set. Love duals. A bit hard to master in getting the balance. It's about symmetry. Disparity in resistance gets you an uneven vape and often spoils the build. But I gotta tell ya it couldn't be easier with the tensioned m.c.'s I'm talkin' about. There is just enough precision in the human hand to tell exactly when adhesion happens. Then the coil behaves like a screen door spring. It wants to be a microcoil. Unlike a coil that was forced into its shape by external energy, it had the energy and shape imparted to it internally. Net result it's about as uniform as it could be (so long as you don't trash it too much setting it). When you pulse it that's when the magic happens. The alumina oxide layers which insulate this continuous short occur coherently forcing a fusion of the layers turn-to-turn. Except for imperfections in the wire it's as perfectly tight as it can get. What's that mean for resistance? Well for one, predictable. And that reproducible outcome means you'll get a lot of sets that fire microcoil the first time and together. Those are the kind of odds I like.

Tap me on the shoulder anytime if you give it a try and need a shout out.

Good luck.

:)

p.s. Speaking of hot legs…here's a pair of twisted-leg parallels I did this evening. Twisting stabilizes the parallels which are fidgety to begin with and helps deter shorting. Makes for an easier install. You'll have to wait for surprise on performance when you tension a wind and try this…


View attachment 4234

Thanks, I've read quite a bit of your works on contact coils over at ECF. ;)

IMO, I've made some better examples, including homemade twisted wires done with a vise-grip and a screwdriver almost a year ago...lol I doubt I was the first to do it that way, but it's pretty easy for small lengths.

7dDpjn9.jpg



A few more of mine.....

Nice little coils
02BKylh.jpg



A fave build, twisted 33 DC set @ 1.0Ω for my Aquas. Absolutely wonderful vape.

5K6N0Bf.jpg


WCSP7tW.jpg



My attempt at DIY Flat Bastard wire. It is 0.8 x 0.1 ribbon wire around the previous twisted 33.
Worked really well, just a bit too warm for my taste on the Fogger v4. I kept them for a dripper build at some point. :)

bWt3aK6.jpg


Mid-burn...nicely glowing from center.
ylH61dO.jpg


NqC0NO3.jpg



Yeah, I'm a photo whore...sorry. ;-)
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks for that video MacTech, gonna be trying that after work I think.

Good, I think you're going to have a wonderful relationship with the microcoil. I'll share a few thoughts with you as it's going to take you perhaps a few winds to get adhesion right. And adhesion is when the coil doesn't want to separate as in pictures I've posted on threads here. It's ready to be pulsed in that state and fuse like glass to itself.

First, you'll need a screwdriver. Usually 1/16" is the most readily available and useful for a clearo. But .07" what's labelled as the oddball 3/43" in some instrument screwdriver kits is about 1.78mm and fits the slot for most clearo's. That's desirable as it lets you put in more wick diameter. You want to use that screwdriver as well to locate that coil once wound (don't remove it) firmly at the bottom of the slot to terminate it (push pin and grommet in). That's going to get you the most reliable performance you can have in a consumer tank. For drippers and tanks the common 5/64" and 3/32" drill bits (or drill blanks if you have a pin vise) are typical. I recommend a set of Dremel bits as they're high RPM and good insurance if you take your device to a B&M to have it drilled out. At B&M's industrial grade bits are the norm which now and again result in unnecessary engraving of your treasured devices. They'll appreciate using your high-end stuff (<$10/set) because you'll get an ultra clean cut.

Note that some folks try too hard. Too much pressure and you can snap the wire. Even something as thick as 28 awg. I've snapped twisted pair. So start with a slight tension, think taught and push slightly with the thumb. Get as close to the spool a s possible. Actually use the rim of the spool as a pivot for the butt of the screw driver or pin vise. The closer you are to the source of the wire the less likely you are to skew the wind by going off the perpendicular. That's important because if you pull away from the wind for example you can impart an energy that's trying to pull it apart in that direction. If you keep it at the 90 deg roughly and push away from the coil with your thumb as you rotate the driver…you will even hear the wire ping as it resists overlapping! Just like a guitar string.

It's amazing stuff! Who would've thought? I must've been dreamin'. Woke up one day and just did it quite by accident as I was trying to perfect a "close" contact coil. So don't feel bad if it takes you a couple of times to work up from the light wind to where adhesion happens every time. When it happens, you'll know it. It took me unfortunately several weeks to get there. But I have to tell you I have motor control issues. So it's a heck of a lot harder for me and I've done thousands, literally. And a great many I throw away because it simply takes seconds to wind another one and just get it right.

Good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks, I've read quite a bit of your works on contact coils over at ECF. ;)

IMO, I've made some better examples, including homemade twisted wires done with a vise-grip and a screwdriver almost a year ago...lol I doubt I was the first to do it that way, but it's pretty easy for small lengths.

A fave build, twisted 33 DC set @ 1.0Ω for my Aquas. Absolutely wonderful vape.

5K6N0Bf.jpg




Yeah, I'm a photo whore...sorry. ;-)

No worries. I wish I had the time to take more (and do vids).

As you note getting twisted tension wound is not difficult. A vice grip tucked in the desk drawer, under a book or under my left knee as I rest forearms on legs (my most comfortable) all work. Problem is you won't get a true tensioned micro in most instances. Even if you succeed in perfect alignment of the ridges of the twain there will be significant gaps. These reduce the turn-to-turn contact area and proportionately the percent of adhesion. A straight wire wound with tension has substantially better than 99% adhesion except for the imperfections in the wire surface itself. Hard to discern exactly as the gaps I'm talking about are not readily visible with the naked eye. Regardless, twisted pair absolutely benefits from the additional firm contact of applied tension and amazingly yields efficiency improvements often better than straight wire. The vape is dense and cool. And you see that coolness is merely an expression that the work of vaporization has occurred. If you feel it and your vape is crashin' to the floor bro…you nailed it.

So I'm with ya on the twisted. A bit more fiddly but for you folks here when you get the straight wind down absolutely twist. It's a whole 'nother character to the vape. Can help you fill in on the in-between resistance targets and will provide a denser alternative to straight wire, say 30AWG twisted for 26 AWG straight. Some devices really respond incredibly to the substitution. An example would be the Helios which is a light airy warmer vape generally but I wind 32 twisted to up the vapor and density when I run it on a ZNA30. Another the Immortalizer which really pops flavor and vapor on light gauge twisted with a lot less of the tweaking needed with flat wire.

Well I'm gettin' worked up over here as you can see, salivating. Time to vape (chaining a Protank's just not gonna do after this).

Good luck.

:)
 

CaFF

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I use gravity to help me out on twisted wire, seems to do well with only the very ends being uneven. They get clipped off anyways.

Just fold a length of wire evenly, hang the loop from a screwdriver, clamp the free ends in the pliers, and spin slowly by hand.

What do ya think? It's not as tight as the machine-made stuff, but it is even and with good overall contact. Really is nice wire in an atty.

GsvJDQy.jpg



8Sm92Ug.jpg


WcD8Mbp.jpg


Just curious, as that twisted 33AWG is my favorite wire ATM. So, if I could improve on it, that'd be nice. ;)
 
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MacTechVpr

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Is there a trick to keep a micro coil from separating when installing? I typically do a 9/10 wrap on 3/32" drill bit and frequently end up with the coil separating when pushing the wire through the posts. I know they need to be placed a bit further away from the post to keep this from happening, but no matter how far away I attempt to install I still end up with the separation too often.

Getting back to the OP's premise since I jumped in at #19. I'm surprised no one responded. We're building micro coils since last year. So we're winding on something. Whatever it is a drill bit, a screwdriver or something equivalent…keep the coil on it until it's set. You can move legs (leave 'em long) kink them as a poster above suggested to better suit the direction of travel for the lead…but at all times keep it on that bit and usually a finger tip on the backbone to keep it from spreading as you do. Basically — protect the wind. Do that each time you're going to manipulate a lead and you stand a far better chance that the geometry will survive. I strongly recommend trying tension winding. Tensioned coils are more forgiving because they have a type of memory and will try to remain a coil. Will more easily return to that shape with pulsing if you happen to loosen a turn. It's built in insurance of survivability for your effort. Not to mention a great vape after.

Good luck notsure.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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I use gravity to help me out on twisted wire, seems to do well with only the very ends being uneven. They get clipped off anyways.
Just fold wire, hang loop from a screwdriver, clamp free ends in the pliers, and spin slowly by hand.

What do ya think? It's not as tight as the machine-made stuff, but it is even and with good contact.

GsvJDQy.jpg



8Sm92Ug.jpg


WcD8Mbp.jpg


Just curious, as it's my favorite wire ATM. So, if I could improve it, that'd be nice. ;)


I meant to mention before that 33 AWG is a tough build. Lot easier tho to hand twist, yep.

(When I'm at a B&M I try to get 'em to twist up as much heavy gauge for me as possible on the bench press. Always handy to have around. And that stuff's really tight.)

I bought a Ryobi and two 12V batt's to drive it so I can take it on the road to workshops. Spin out a dozen or more fat wire if I have to . It's a bit of overkill for everyday. But sometimes you feel like a twist, sometimes you don't.

:D

Good luck.
 
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MacTechVpr

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What was that last coil sitting on in that last photo from the video links you sent me?


IMG_0805a.jpg


It's sitting on the Kanthal wire spool it was wound from. That was the pic I posted earlier on this thread and others of what a finished tensioned micro coil looks like. In the rough cut video I sent you it's much easier to see what it takes (using that spool) to reach the point of adhesion where the coils get sticky and don't want to separate. That's what you want. You want to carefully install the coil in that state. Then when you pulse it the turn surfaces are as close to each other as nature will allow. And when alumina oxidation of the surface occurs the turns actually fuse together.

You don't get that with a hand wind. You won't see it in a torched coil, the surface has already been carbonized before the alumina layer developed. You won't get that in something that was forced or scrunched together. Because all of these fall short of a uniform contact between the turns.

To the extent that you don't have that uniform adhesion you have lost that degree or percent of potential efficiency of your wind.

Think about it. That's sort of like fillin' up your gas tank then turnin' around and dumpin' out 3 or 4 gallons, Perhaps the equivalent of pullin' one of your spark plug wires on a V8. Or pullin' your battery before you've charged to 4V.

It's energy, capacity, efficiency we've left on the table.

So you need to ask yourself why? The method and science of strain that I've introduced is not an iota more difficult to use or perform than the conventional methods in play to the beginning of this year. And I do include the actual microcoil in that assessment because it is not a maximally uniform union of the turns. We just don't see the gaps. They're too small.

So there it is and hopefully you and a bunch of others will help me put a thousand versions of the video out there. My sincere thanks.

Good luck.

:)
 
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i kind-of understand your technical stuff about alumi fusion, but are you using a power tool to wrap your micro coil? I have had the best luck using a lot of tension like you are saying (i think) and making sure it's wrapped tight the first time, no exceptions. i don't typically anneal or tweeze, once my coils are mounted i fire a few a few pulses and everything lights up good , no un-ravelling, thermal expansion/distortion that is noticeable to me, it is very huge to have the tool always in the ID of coil until it is tightened into position, (or it will distort and get bent out of shape). I'm no cloud chaser by any means, just looking for a good reliable build that i use consistently in my RTA systems. ideal for me at this time is 28 g kanthal, 1.5mm 1 ohm, making Dual .5ohm
K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid) XD
 

MacTechVpr

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FWIW
Treatises from MacTechVpr are worth their weight in gold, well, least-a-ways the time to read em' (-;

Read his take on the tension coil at ECF early on, it made perfect sense.
Works exactly as advertised, simple, reproducible coils.

Nothing fancy, no gimicky jigs, no torching before hand, simply works.

Thanks again for the props. Are you the same otd on that other forum? lol

I've been trying to get things kickstarted on the underground but things are lagging. It's frustrating watching folks keep on pokin' around at getting it right, gloss right over things and miss the very simplest (and correct electrically) way of doin' it.

Could use some help, as you did, and thanks.

Good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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i kind-of understand your technical stuff about alumi fusion, but are you using a power tool to wrap your micro coil? I have had the best luck using a lot of tension like you are saying (i think) and making sure it's wrapped tight the first time, no exceptions. i don't typically anneal or tweeze, once my coils are mounted i fire a few a few pulses and everything lights up good , no un-ravelling, thermal expansion/distortion that is noticeable to me, it is very huge to have the tool always in the ID of coil until it is tightened into position, (or it will distort and get bent out of shape). I'm no cloud chaser by any means, just looking for a good reliable build that i use consistently in my RTA systems. ideal for me at this time is 28 g kanthal, 1.5mm 1 ohm, making Dual .5ohm
K.I.S.S (keep it simple stupid) XD

The level of tension I'm talking about is subtle. Applying tension to wire being wound on a mechanical is overkill and can overly stretch the wire changing its resistance. No way to tell even remotely how much or how consistently. Or not enough and you don't get adhesion which is the objective, i.e. sticky, won't separate, wants to be a coil like a screen door spring. Yet, if you do it on a 5buck pin vise by hand you get a perfect coil, as tight as nature will allow, in 30 seconds or less that goes into every kind of device we use. And the wire and tool can travel with you conveniently anywhere. So it's a portable method…


IMG_0567a.jpg


(An instrument screw is shown in above but a pin vise provides more control, grip and changeable bit options. A pin vise appears alongside the spool in my earlier pic.)

By using light forearm and thumb pressure to strain the wire onto the bit directly from the spool (or any other closely fixed point) you impart energy into it. It is this retained energy that maintains the geometry. And that is where you want to be when you pulse it and electrically force the oxidation layers that develop to bond with each other. The coil's like glued then, reliable and durable.

It saves a lot of time DJ and that's precious. But best of all, it just works. That's the ticket.

Good luck.

:)
 
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pdxvapes

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The level of tension I'm talking about is subtle. Applying tension to wire being wound on a mechanical is overkill and can overly stretch the wire changing its resistance. No way to tell even remotely how much or how consistently. Or not enough and you don't get adhesion which is the objective, i.e. sticky, won't separate, wants to be a coil like a screen door spring. Yet, if you do it on a 5buck pin vise by hand you get a perfect coil, as tight as nature will allow, in 30 seconds or less that goes into every kind of device we use. And the wire and tool can travel with you conveniently anywhere. So it's a portable method…
Going to try to buy some Copper Core Coaxial today at the hardware store to replace some springs, my buddy collapsed his spring on an Astro clone and my Nemesis' spring could use an upgrade before I end up collapsing it.. Going to pick myself up a pin-vise as well to save my fingers from the strain of those lower gauge wires! If I can only find the pin-vise I'll still be contented.
My RBA game is going to step up either way, big ups to MacTechVpr, you're a G.
 

MacTechVpr

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Going to try to buy some Copper Core Coaxial today at the hardware store to replace some springs, my buddy collapsed his spring on an Astro clone and my Nemesis' spring could use an upgrade before I end up collapsing it.. Going to pick myself up a pin-vise as well to save my fingers from the strain of those lower gauge wires! If I can only find the pin-vise I'll still be contented.
My RBA game is going to step up either way, big ups to MacTechVpr, you're a G.

About the lowest price I found today. This particular design which I think every other person in China makes is about one of the best and cheapest...Amazon.com: Professional Quality Brass Pin Vise - 4 Collets Chucks 0.0mm to 3.0mm.
covers about the entire range we might want to see in a coil diameter.

For more precision work and tighter in to posts a more compact and finer point is made by Tamiya in Japan and can be ordered from their US op's...Tamiya America Item #74112 | Fine Pin Vise D-R (0.1-3.2mm)or this hobby source...Fine Pin Vise D-R (0.1-3.2mm) (tam74112) Tamiya Model Vise.

Both will save your fingers and help you produce the tightest most symmetrical coil you've ever made.


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If not tap me on the shoulder we'll get ya there. I've trained hundreds in person in workshops and group builds as well as online and with Skype. I'm doing this because I know from experience that once you've successfully wound one and vaped on it you'll train dozens of your friends, co-workers and family. Simply because you won't get a better vape from a basic coil than one that's electrically optimized.

Good luck pdx. LMK how you make out.

:)
 

A_Wild_Yeap_Appears!

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Me, I am going to be patient and wait until he gets back to us on the subject.

Perhaps it is taking a bit because he has an actual life:eek:

Me, I just spend my time playing in traffic.

Badly since I am still here:p

Can we give you some shades on your avatar or something? For being the coolest Mod on the forums!!
 

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