I am big on safety when it comes to the dangers of batteries. I have a reuleaux rx 2/3. I have a smok tfv8 tank. They only come with <.3 coils. I have Samsung 25r batteries. Is it safe to vape at 4.45v/90watts? It says I'm pulling 20A on the mod. I had efest 3500 with a continuous rating of 10A and was doing the same. Are either of these batteries safe to vape with this setup? Sorry if I sound like an idiot, but I don't want to start smoking again, but I would also like to keep my face.
Become a Patron!
Battery safety, shops won't help.
- Thread starter Tomhanksnipples
- Start date
Stick with the Samsungs in that one, is the short answer. You'll get much better, and more detailed replies from our gurus.
Just to add. Really want to go up to 120w but that's 5.02v and 22A. Safe?
Second the recommendation NOT to use the Efests. Also second the recommendation to look at HG2s.
The cheapest constant price (without sales) is probably here: https://liionwholesale.com/collecti...lat-top-wholesale-discount?variant=3263844292
FWIW, the shop thing is BS. Shops are now scared to do anything but check ID and take your money. The fact is that there is absolutely nothing in the FDA regs to even remotely suggest that they can not tell you what batteries are safe or best for what devices. IMO, most shops are probably more in it for the money than anything and probably welcome NOT having to have knowledgeable folks at hire wages to answer these types of questions. Only one of the four shops I've been in recently actually knew anything about anything.
The cheapest constant price (without sales) is probably here: https://liionwholesale.com/collecti...lat-top-wholesale-discount?variant=3263844292
FWIW, the shop thing is BS. Shops are now scared to do anything but check ID and take your money. The fact is that there is absolutely nothing in the FDA regs to even remotely suggest that they can not tell you what batteries are safe or best for what devices. IMO, most shops are probably more in it for the money than anything and probably welcome NOT having to have knowledgeable folks at hire wages to answer these types of questions. Only one of the four shops I've been in recently actually knew anything about anything.
That's odd, because several shops I have been to give that as an excuse for not helping at all with suggestions or advice, and BTW,not all shops have losers working the counters. Just sayin
Last edited:
I did my research on ohms law and discharge rate on batteries and realized I was pulling 25A on batteries rated at 10A all they say is it's regulated and ANY battery is fine.
No, I know, some shops are great. The one that I thought was good, although their prices were high, offered stellar customer service.
I think the greatest part of the regs/shops problem is that the regs are as far from clear in all aspects as they can possibly be. And shops are all mom and pop businesses really, and can't risk their bread and butter on "maybes" and "what ifs" and err on the side of caution as a result. The only thing I read in the regs with regards to advice was with regards to health related issues. I didn't see anything with regards to discussing which atomizers on what devices, what a certain juice tastes like, or what batteries are better used.
Well, the best bet is to stick with batteries rated by independent parties, and NOT rely on the wrapper ratings. Efests have been known to vent and catch fire even when used at labelled ratings. Mooch's list is the go to when looking for batteries.
Thank you all so much for your help! I really appreciate it.
A decent 20 amp battery like a the 25r's will do ~ 70 watts. With 2 cells you will be good for around 140, and triple cells 210. SO for example say you have 3 cell mod, and you want to do say 75 watts. You would be going very easy on the cells. Working this backwards with rough calculations, 25 watts per cell divided by 3.7 volts = 6.7 amps. Remember especially on a 3 cell mod when the cells are in series, coil current will likely be way higher that the current the cells will have to put out.
I'll admit I only have a single cell mod, so perhaps I misunderstand what you say when you say the cells are in series.
In electrical stuff, if you put batteries in series and apply to a load, the full load current will be flowing thru each battery.
If you put them in parallel, then (approx) 1/3 of the load current will be flowing thru each battery.
The load on the batteries in a variable wattage mod is not the coil. It's the chip. The load on the chip is the coil. Just because your coil sees 25amps doesn't mean your batteries are supplying 25 amps. Watt setting divided by total battery voltage gives you battery current. Coil resistance has nothing to do with battery current in a variable wattage mod.
Ok, that makes sense then.. so in the chip-coil side, the chip controls the voltage to make the watts you request (with the fixed element of the coil value currently installed). On the chip-battery side of things, you have a fixed voltage (approx 4v, for single or parallel multi's.. or approx 12v for 3-cells in series) and the chip pulls the current it needs to maintain its coil voltage.
I hope Im gettin close.. I like knowing about this stuff..
UncleRJ
Will write reviews for Beer!
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Reviewer
Moderator
Due to FDA new BS regs, They no longer can help or show you anything gear related, that includes advising on correct battery use, Our members here will help you out to keep you safe, Welcome to VU, moved to the battery section for additional help
I totally agree.
Once again the FDA puts folks in danger trying to protect us.
I have a very good friend that runs a few vape shops and per the reg's they are not allowed to even show folks the proper ways to make coils much less advise on battery/coil safety.
Next time we talk, I am going to ask her if her folks are even allowed to point customers to Steam Engine.
Eff the FDA!
Yeah, you're getting it. I'll elaborate a little. It's basically watts in equals watts out. (You actually have to supply a little more in due to about 5% power loss in the chip.) So if you have it set to 50 watts, the combination of volts and amps that make the 50 watts out is determined by the coil resistance. The 50 watts in from the batteries have a totally different combination of volts and amps and the battery voltage determines how many amps the chip pulls. So as battery voltage drops, battery current has to go up to maintain the set watts. Also, as batteries are added in series the input voltage goes up so the input current goes down to maintain the watt setting. Hope that helps.
Simple answer... get some LG HG2's. I have a TFV8 on a Reuleaux 2/3 and have HG2's (as recommended by my vape shop). I vape at 110-130 watts. The HG2's are very safe for what you're using. I'm no math genius and frankly too lazy to learn all the nitty gritty details. I just know that 3 HG2's will have enough amps to keep you safe.
Some vape shops do still help when it comes to batteries. They can help with coils too, but they have to charge for it, so my shop charges a quarter.
Some vape shops do still help when it comes to batteries. They can help with coils too, but they have to charge for it, so my shop charges a quarter.
For a regulated mod.. don't buy cheap rebranded or factory 2nd batteries and DO buy a high quality battery charger.
If a battery has a "pulse" rating printed on it.. don't buy it
if the wrapper does not say SONY, SAMSUNG, LG.. don't buy it
if the battery does say SONY, SAMSUNG, LG and has a pulse rating.. Don't buy it. (sony,samsung,lg do not put pulse ratings on batteries)
By the way.. the only times I have every heard of a regulated mod going boom was when it was improperly charged. (like they include a usb charger to plug into your computer.. don't plug it into your IPad or telephone charger.. lol)
I actually had the positive ring on the 510 drop across the negative lead, and totally short (hard short) my 100w mod.. but it ddn't blow up. The fuses took the hit. Killed the mod, but it didnt blow my face off.. just a soft pffftttt.. and whisp of smoke. Batteries were still good even.
And may as well mention it now.. check your batteries before you charge them and again before you put them in your mod. Maybe a pigeon flew in an pecked at them while they were charging and tore the wrapper... or maybe you missed a small tear when you put them on to charge.. either way.. checking twice is a good habit to get into.
The thing to remember is don't buy cheap batteries. LG, SONY, SAMSUNG, high drain batteries. You will want 20 to 25 amp continuous draw rating.
Now here is where it gets a bit technical... the lower the continuous draw rating (say 20 vs 25) the higher the MAH rating. SO.. you might have a 3000mah @ 20 amp continuous draw or you can have a 2500mah at 25amp continuous draw. What's the difference? The amount of time you can go between recharges. Does the amp rating make a difference to your regulated mod? Not one bit. Software handles the amps, watts, volts, So safety wise, a 20amp 3000mah is just as good as a 25amp 2500 Mah. The only difference, is the amount of time you can vape between charges. The higher continuous amp rating MIGHT give you a fractionally lower ramp up but at the cost of more frequent battery recharging. Remember.. if you use high quality, brand name batteries, you are fine in your regulated mod.
The main area where you need to really be concerned with the math (amps, volts, resistance, watts), is when you get into mechanical mods. For that, you can and should do your own research, but ask forum members for help, as in what you should be looking for. But that is a whole new ballgame. If you want some examples of mechanical builds and batteries, check out the cloud chasing section. Fair warning... the builds you see there are kind of unbelievable. But we do know our batteries.
we have to! Remember I said, don't buy batteries with a pulse rating? Here is why.. it is useless. It means absolutely nothing. That battery on a mech will pulse at whatever amps I tell it to pulse at according to the resistance of the coil I put on it. It is up to ME to know how many amps the battery can handle and for how long it can handle it. Now, Im not saying to run out and buy a mechanical mod. I only included the information to demonstrate the difference between regulated and mechanicals. Regulated.. the mod does the math and juggling act. Mechanical.. the user has to know the math and juggle his own knives.