evic vtc mini update - No SS option

[rocketveg]

I have a year-old vtc mini. Firmware was 1.1. I updated directly to the latest version for this device (5.0.4) and I only have VW, BP, Ni, and M1. There's no SS option. Should I have updated to a previous version before the 5.0.4? Is there a way to undo this update and fix this?

 

[Rangertrix]

I have a year-old vtc mini. Firmware was 1.1. I updated directly to the latest version for this device (5.0.4) and I only have VW, BP, Ni, and M1. There's no SS option. Should I have updated to a previous version before the 5.0.4? Is there a way to undo this update and fix this?

I believe the name of the mode changed from SS to 316L or SS316.

Edit: Forgot to mention that 316L is stainless steel it is just a particular alloy.

 

[rocketveg]

That isn't there either. I toggled through the options several times.

 

[Rangertrix]

That isn't there either. I toggled through the options several times.

OK. Press fire button 3 times. power should flash. press + until you see temp and it will have a Ni or Ti after it. Press minus key then press plus key until it says "Temp SS316"

 

[Rangertrix]

Once you are at the Temp mode you press minus to enter the temp type. Ni stands for nickel or Ni200, Ti stands for titanium, SS316 stands for stainless steel 316L.
Let me know if you get it figured out.

 

[The.Drifter]

Maybe check this out. It's a very customizable universal custom firmware project that works great on my old V1 Evic Vtc Mini. Lots of features you can tailor to your personal liking and IMHO is the firmware Joytech should have released in the first place. It even added the clock mode of the V2 Mini's to my V1 Mini.

https://github.com/ClockSelect/myevic/blob/master/README.md

 

[rocketveg]

Once you are at the Temp mode you press minus to enter the temp type. Ni stands for nickel or Ni200, Ti stands for titanium, SS316 stands for stainless steel 316L.
Let me know if you get it figured out.

I just tried this. Now I have a better of sense of what the screen is showing me. It's VW, BP, Ni, and then TC M1. When I follow your instructions, I can toggle through three M settings (1, 2, 3), so I'm assuming these are memory settings. I still see no independent SS option though.

Maybe check this out. It's a very customizable universal custom firmware project that works great on my old V1 Evic Vtc Mini. Lots of features you can tailor to your personal liking and IMHO is the firmware Joytech should have released in the first place. It even added the clock mode of the V2 Mini's to my V1 Mini.

https://github.com/ClockSelect/myevic/blob/master/README.md

Thanks for posting this. Can I make this work on the Mac? I actually like the previous screen version that you have here. The new one has 5 circles on it, each referring to a diff thing. The big circle is the VW or TC. Then the other 4 circles are for time, A, V & ohms. The font is ridiculously tiny.

 

[The.Drifter]

Thanks for posting this. Can I make this work on the Mac? I actually like the previous screen version that you have here. The new one has 5 circles on it, each referring to a diff thing. The big circle is the VW or TC. Then the other 4 circles are for time, A, V & ohms. The font is ridiculously tiny.

It's not my personal project, just passing along the awesome work theses guys are doing over at github. Yes, you just download the bin file from that link and use the default firmware updater you used to update to v5.04 but select the custom bin instead.

 

[Rangertrix]

Whi

I just tried this. Now I have a better of sense of what the screen is showing me. It's VW, BP, Ni, and then TC M1. When I follow your instructions, I can toggle through three M settings (1, 2, 3), so I'm assuming these are memory settings. I still see no independent SS option though.




Thanks for posting this. Can I make this work on the Mac? I actually like the previous screen version that you have here. The new one has 5 circles on it, each referring to a diff thing. The big circle is the VW or TC. Then the other 4 circles are for time, A, V & ohms. The font is ridiculously tiny.

While it is showing you Ni press the minus button. Ni will start to flash. Then press plus button and you will see a flashing Ti. Press plus button again and you will see SS316 flashing. Press fire button to exit.

SS316 is the stainless steel setting

 

[rocketveg]

Whi



While it is showing you Ni press the minus button. Ni will start to flash. Then press plus button and you will see a flashing Ti. Press plus button again and you will see SS316 flashing. Press fire button to exit.

SS316 is the stainless steel setting

Finally got it right. Thanks for the help.

 

[Rangertrix]

Ok. cool!
Glad you got it.
No problem at all.

 

[skt239]

Same thing happened to me to after one of the most recent updates. Glad you're back in business.

 

[Rangertrix]

The new one has 5 circles on it, each referring to a diff thing. The big circle is the VW or TC. Then the other 4 circles are for time, A, V & ohms. The font is ridiculously tiny.

The latest firmware actually has 2 versions, the only difference is the display. One has the circles, and the other retains the original display.

If you look at the chart on the firmware download page showing the differences in the versions, you will see that the display is the only difference between firmware 3.04 and 5.04. Plus you'll notice they were created the same day.

3.04 has original display interface and 5.04 has the newer one with the 5 circles.

 

[rocketveg]

The latest firmware actually has 2 versions, the only difference is the display. One has the circles, and the other retains the original display.

If you look at the chart on the firmware download page showing the differences in the versions, you will see that the display is the only difference between firmware 3.04 and 5.04. Plus you'll notice they were created the same day.

3.04 has original display interface and 5.04 has the newer one with the 5 circles.

So i can change back to the original display? I'm worried i might brick my evic. It's not my only mod but it's compact enough to bring everywhere.

Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk

 

[Rangertrix]

So i can change back to the original display? I'm worried i might brick my evic. It's not my only mod but it's compact enough to bring everywhere.

Sent from my SM-N9208 using Tapatalk

Yes. Firmware 3.04 is exactly the same as 5.04 the one you downloaded and flashed the first time except it uses the original display.
Your mod is designed to download and flash them.

 

[rocketveg]

Ok. I'll try that after I set up my other mod.

 

[rocketveg]

Got a bit obsessive, changed the firmware. No problems. This is my first attempt at TC. I'm using SS316L 26ga, around 6.5 wraps, 30mm, on an Avocado 22. Temp is 480F, TCR is .00092, 50w.

Edit: missing info

It isn't vaping well. I'm barely getting any flavor or vapor. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. The VTC goes on temp protect after 2 vapes.

 

[fq06]

Change tcr to 93.
Also, make sure you unlock the resistance, fire without an atomizer on it, screw atomizer back on and give it a quick fire. It may ask you if it's a new coil, it may not, but lock the resistance either way.

Turn temp up if it still isn't hot enough vape for you. If you need to go much over 500° then it is becoming a band aid unless you just really like a hot hot vape.

 

[rocketveg]

Change tcr to 93.
Also, make sure you unlock the resistance, fire without an atomizer on it, screw atomizer back on and give it a quick fire. It may ask you if it's a new coil, it may not, but lock the resistance either way.

Turn temp up if it still isn't hot enough vape for you. If you need to go much over 500° then it is becoming a band aid unless you just really like a hot hot vape.

I did as you suggested. Changed TCR to 93, increased temp to 520F, tried to vape at 35 w, 45w, 50w. Still no good. It goes into temp protection. I don't actually like hot vapes. Prior to this attempt at TC, I was using Kanthal and vaping at nothing more than 20w with an average of .5-.8 ohm single coils.

I have some probably dumb questions:
1) Do I use the TC SS316L mode or the TCR 93 mode (I have this in M1)? I saw elsewhere someone say to keep it in the TCR mode.
2) My resistance seems to change when I try to vape. It increases from .49 ohm (which is coilmaster's measurement, too) to something like .59. Is that normal? Or am I doing something wrong?

 

[fq06]

Did you unlock resistance, give it a chance to ask it it's a new coil and then lock resistance again?

 

[fq06]

316l profile should be same as a 92 tcr.
Tcr you can tweak a little to match the coil. Not better unless the coil you're using doesn't like a 92 tcr then the default 316l profile is not as good as bumping the tcr 1 or 2.

That's a live resistance measurement so as the wire heats, the resistance rises.

 

[rocketveg]

I tried to unlock resistance about 4x now, but it doesn't ask if I have a new coil. I removed the tank, pressed the fire button, screwed the tank back on and fired briefly. I actually changed the tank to my subtank mini and it asked if I had a new coil. So I know that's working.

 

[fq06]

It seems to only ask if the new coil is higher resistance than the last.
If it doesn't ask, that's ok. As long as you unlock by pressing fire & up button at the same time. With no atty on it, fire it will say no atomizer. Then screw on atty and fire for a second, your resistance should show now.
Now press fire and up button at the same time to lock (you will see a little padlock icon when locked).

Sounds like you did that just wanted to make sure it was truly locked in.

 

[rocketveg]

I didn't know about locking the resistance. Just tried it now. Pressed the fire and up button to lock the resistance. The interface went to the logo menu. Also, there's no padlock icon.

 

[fq06]

There will be a lock next to the resistance readout when locked. Press the fire and + at the same time again and you should see the lock pop up.
Now that you found resistance lock, start at the beginning of that process above and lock in your resistance.

 

[fq06]

Sorry, press fire button 3 times to go into the menu and toggle through the settings with the - button till you get to the resistance and then press + button to lock or unlock it

 

[rocketveg]

I got it locked and went through the entire process of unlocking it and getting the tank back on it. Still no warmth to the vape, barely any vapor, and absolutely no flavor.

 

[fq06]

Hrm...
If it is 326l wire then either the 316l profile or 92/93 tcr should work fine around 500° give or take.

You shouldn't need to do this but I guess bump tcr up or raise temp till you get the warmth you want at 500°... and you don't get temp protection cut off.

The screws capturing the wires are tight?
Spaced coil, not contact coil right?

Not sure where to go if you unlocked, fired and locked. That should work fine.

 

[Rangertrix]

Wait about 15 or 20 minute for atty to return to room temp then try again. While waiting put mod on the Temp ss316 setting (if you are certain you're using 316L).
What you're doing by locking the resistance is teaching your mod what the resistance of your coil is at room temp. (approx. 70).
Then why when firing your atomizer, the SS coil's resistance rises as it gets hotter. That's how the mod knows what temp it is. By the change in resistance.
That's why when locking the resistance the atty needs to be unfired and cold (room temp).
It helps sometimes if you know why you're doing what you're doing.

What kind of wicking material are you using? Is your coil spaced or a contact coil?

 

[rocketveg]

I've got the wires screwed tightly and I'm using a spaced coil. The lady who gave me the wire sample (free with a purchase) said it was 316L. I hope she was telling me the truth or didn't give me a mislabeled sample. The feel and coiling of the wire do feel different from kanthal.

You've been really patient. Thanks. & thanks to everyone else who pitched in. The evic manual online is rather spotty and missing some info so these walkthroughs were quite helpful with figuring out the menu and I've gotten a sense of the temperature ranges and settings.

I'll try to increase the temp and play with the wattage to see if I can get this going. Worst case scenario is I'll just use it with kanthal on power mode. I was hoping to use VTC to test TC before "playing" with my DNA device, but looks like I'm going to have to go straight to DNA.

This is the mod I take to work because it's compact and feels well-built. I also like that the paint job is excellent. No chipping yet and I'm not exactly OC about taking care of it. My first return-to-vaping kit was the Kangertech subox mini. Pretty reliable and sturdy but the paint comes off really easily.

 

[rocketveg]

Wait about 15 or 20 minute for atty to return to room temp then try again. While waiting put mod on the Temp ss316 setting (if you are certain you're using 316L).
What you're doing by locking the resistance is teaching your mod what the resistance of your coil is at room temp. (approx. 70).
Then why when firing your atomizer, the SS coil's resistance rises as it gets hotter. That's how the mod knows what temp it is. By the change in resistance.
That's why when locking the resistance the atty needs to be unfired and cold (room temp).
It helps sometimes if you know why you're doing what you're doing.

What kind of wicking material are you using? Is your coil spaced or a contact coil?

In between trying it out, I'd switch tanks and vape on power mode while looking at tutorials online. The atty didn't feel warm to the touch. But ok I'll wait longer (and try to be more patient). I'm using Japanese organic cotton and a spaced coil.

 

[fq06]

For some reason the joy chips are not as sensitive to a room temp coil but generally, yes, you want the atty and the mod at room temp.

But if you lock in a warm atty it will actually vape hotter than it should so I don't think locking in a warm coil is the problem. You should do it right and lock in a room temp atty just cuz but I'm just saying that you would have a too hot vape problem locking in a warm to hot coil. So I don't think that's it.

Wire not actually being 316lss may be the problem.

You can vape 316l in power mode as well as temp mode.

 

[Rangertrix]

In between trying it out, I'd switch tanks and vape on power mode while looking at tutorials online. The atty didn't feel warm to the touch. But ok I'll wait longer (and try to be more patient). I'm using Japanese organic cotton and a spaced coil.

You also have to let the mod sit at room temp as well, lol. Forgot to mention that. The PCB board will become hot from vaping and cause you to not get a reliable result when locking in resistance.

 

[Rangertrix]

For some reason the joy chips are not as sensitive to a room temp coil but generally, yes, you want the atty and the mod at room temp.

But if you lock in a warm atty it will actually vape hotter than it should so I don't think locking in a warm coil is the problem. You should do it right and lock in a room temp atty just cuz but I'm just saying that you would have a too hot vape problem locking in a warm to hot coil. So I don't think that's it.

Wire not actually being 316lss may be the problem.

You can vape 316l in power mode as well as temp mode.

As to how sensitive the joyetech chips are depends on which firmware for which model you are using, lol. I have and use several daily myself.
I don't think locking a warm coil is the issue either, but we've also been using theses steps as a training tool tutorial of sorts. Rather than just fixing it right away, trying to teach the steps so it will be done properly every time as well as giving some understanding of how it works and why they are performing certain steps.
Plus, sometimes rather than chase our tails in circles, I figure were better off starting at the beginning, going step by step, and thereby eliminating variables seen and unseen.
TC can be so temperamental (pun intended), that sometimes just starting over can be the quickest and simplest solution.

 

[rocketveg]

All of the steps above were really helpful. The menu isn't spelled out or intuitive. I saw a discussion on reddit, though, on how the temp vaped on the VTC mini is much lower than the temp it's set to. So their recommendation was to increase the temp and dial down the watts.

So first I changed the coil since I wasn't certain about the quality of the SS wire the girl at the B&M gave me. I started on a spool I purchased online. I did 9 wraps of 24ga ss316l, spaced; cut the watts down to 35; rewicked; and started at 480F and worked my way up to 530F. Though the temp protection still kicks in fast, at least now I'm getting a warm and flavorful vape.

 

[Eskie]

Temp protection is not an error kicking in. It is the TC board doing it's job, turning off the current when the temperature you desire is achieved. Your coil is probably coming in between 0.4 and 0.5 ohm. Is that about where it's reading? 35W for a simple ~0.5 ohm coil should be fine.

 

[Rangertrix]

Your coil is probably coming in between 0.4 and 0.5 ohm. Is that about where it's reading? 35W for a simple ~0.5 ohm coil should be fine.

I guess it's about .453. What do I win, what do I win?

 

[rocketveg]

.38ohms. I tested the serpent mini with a .4 ohm build. It was harder to build but easier to get the serpent to work with the evic. And I had to lower the temp to around 480F. I'm still trying to get a hang of building with this wire. I was targeting .5 because I'm used to around .5-.8 for kanthal. Oh well, here's to trial and error.

 

[Eskie]

SS will have a bit lower resistance than Kanthal. Once you get things dialed, realize the resistance of your build isn't important.

 

[Rangertrix]

What atty were using before trying the Serpent Mini?
The atty your using can have a BIG effect on TC. The Serpent Mini is a decent one to use. The atty must have good solid connections all the way through. Ones that have springs, some, not all, that have floating 510 pins, ones where the juice flow control moves the position of the deck or coil mounts, etc. can all have very bad effects on TC and actually make it unusable.

 

[rocketveg]

I was using the Avocado 22. I like building on it better than the serpent mini. I never used to understand reviewers' when they said "this is hard to build on" or "this is easy to build on". But I do now. It's harder to get the same build SS coil into the serpent mini. I might relegate the mini to kanthal for now.