I just started to get into rebuildables and I got the smok tvf4 micro r2 rba and my ? Is it comes at .35 I can change the coil configurations using the appropriate calculators of course as long as they fall within the accepted range of my mod correct? I'm fairly new to vaping about 6 mos and very new to rebuilding and I've done a good amount of research but just can't seem to find some answers especially about this particular device. Thanks for any help or recommended build for this rba.
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Smok micro R2 RBA help...
- Thread starter baevans11
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I just started to get into rebuildables and I got the smok tvf4 micro r2 rba and my ? Is it comes at .35 I can change the coil configurations using the appropriate calculators of course as long as they fall within the accepted range of my mod correct? I'm fairly new to vaping about 6 mos and very new to rebuilding and I've done a good amount of research but just can't seem to find some answers especially about this particular device. Thanks for any help or recommended build for this rba.
First off, yes, you can put any coil you want in it, it all depends on your mod and your vaping preference. Typically, regulated mods will let you know if the coil resistance is too low. What mod are you using? Most manufacturers give you an operating range for the given mod. Let's say, on my Hohm wrecker G2 the lowest resistance it will work at is 0.007ohms. Will I build a coil that low? No, probably not but most tanks I use have coils with a resistance between 0.3 and 0.12 ohms. All these rta tanks are DL tanks. The MTL tanks I build more conservative, usually between 0.7 and 1.4 ohms. Your particular tank was designed with the DL crowd in mind, however, the reason section with the airflow reducer installed will be adequate for MTL. I have mine with a 0.6 ohm coil installed.
I have the R80 TC mod.
That is a very nice set. From what I've seen, the mod can fire as low as 0.06 ohms in TC mode, or 0.1 ohms in regular mode. While I wouldn't advise anyone to push the limits, I think you're safe with the 0.35 ohm coil, it all depends one your vaping style.
Maybe you can help me with a problem when I wick a coil it vapes really good for like a half day then I start to get a lot of residue of liquid in my mouth, I've tried all types of setting and just can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong. On a side note sometimes I have unstoppable leaks and other times It will leak if I fill it to the max line but will stop when it gets down to about 2/3 of a tank. Also one more question what is the real difference between a .25 ohm coil and 1.2? I like the vape to lung but I've only ever used a .25 and .30 coil so I'm quite unfamiliar. I would appreciate any help you might be able to provide.
Let's start with the easiest thing first. The difference between the 0.25 ohm and the 1.2 ohm coils. Besides the obvious difference in resistance, the 0.25 ohms coil will require significantly more power (watts) to fire than the 1.2 ohms coil. At the same time, more power means hotter and more vapor. You would not fire a 1.2 ohms at 60 or 70 watts, or at least not for very long before bad things start to happen. The lower ohms coils also tend to allow more air thru (otherwise they get really hot) and are better for DL whereas the higher ohm coils (1.2 or higher) will tend to have less air go thru, smaller air holes, and be better for MTL. The DL coils will also consume more juice when compared to the MTL coils. If you like DL vaping, you might consider a rta type tank, but that's a whole other can of worms I'm not going to touch now.
As for the leaking issues, a picture of the way you wicked would be very helpful, leaks can be causedby a multitude of factors. ...loss over vacuum being the end result. Most tanks function on a vacuum basis and once that is jeopardized, the leaks begin.
Hope this helps, at least a little.
As for the leaking issues, a picture of the way you wicked would be very helpful, leaks can be causedby a multitude of factors. ...loss over vacuum being the end result. Most tanks function on a vacuum basis and once that is jeopardized, the leaks begin.
Hope this helps, at least a little.
Ok cool thanks I will send a pic of my wick tomorrow morning just take a peak when u have some free time. BTW I do like DL vape and a cooler vape I just don't want to get the residue on my tongue u know lol. I'll hit u up tomorrow sorry to be singling you out for info but I'm new to this forum or any for that matter and you seem to have some knowledge. Thanks for all your help.
One more thing sorry what build do you recommend for a .25 build with A1 kanthal 24g wire I have a coil master kit and I'm having a difficult time with steam engine
If 24 gauge is the only wire you have on hand, then 2 strand twisted with about 1.5 mm pitch (the distance between "peaks") and a 2.5 mm ID (inner diameter )and about 5 wraps would get you at about 0.3 ohms.
If you have an Android phone or tablet, look up Vape Tool. It is the application I use most, steam engine is great but not quite as intuitive.
I have a pair of fused clapton coils in my Petri rta at 0.39 ohms and in power mode at 51 ohms they are great.
If you have an Android phone or tablet, look up Vape Tool. It is the application I use most, steam engine is great but not quite as intuitive.
I have a pair of fused clapton coils in my Petri rta at 0.39 ohms and in power mode at 51 ohms they are great.
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Hi Beavans11. Ive got this mod and started today actually with my first RBA Build. First off which wire are you using? I would recommend staying between the wires the mod tells you, Titanium, Stainless steel or Nickel. Till they bring out a firmware update to handle all the other wires. Recently I have build a dual coil with Kanthal A1 wire and its really terrible because my coefficient resistance on this mod doesn't really go low. My setting is .32 ohms at 42.8 watts, coefficient resistance 0.00050 on stainless steel mode. For Kanthal A1 you need about 0.00010 or below. Its alright but not the best that I know this mod can do. So next week i'm buying stainless steel. Look at this link to get an idea of what I'm talking about - http://www.ecigssa.co.za/temperature-sensing-mods-and-why-kanthal-wont-work.t11301/.
Leaking problems I had a few. When you change a coil clean your tank, take off all the seals and let it dry properly. Use a hairdryer to evaporate all the water ( be careful though not to melt the seals that are hard to come by). I presume you have the extension on that makes your tank 3.5ml. My tank leaked also a lot because I saw on my top cap, the seal was a bit torn. All I did was, I took some plumber tape (very tiny amount) and wrapped once around the thread, this is till I find a new seal. Problem solved not one leak. If your using pre made coils from Smok, close all your air holes then first you screw you coil on to your top cap then put you glass around the top cap. Then screw you glass with coil and top cap gently into your bottom cap. If its a bit tough put abit of ejuice on your finger and just rub it around your bottom cap seal. Watch out for faulty coils that can ruin your thread, so just to test it out, first test your coil by screwing it in your bottom cap. Anyways if your using RBA, first screw in your RBA coil deck to the bottom cap with the extension on it. Then have your top cap with glass ready, and screw it into your bottom cap. Always close air holes when refilling e-juice. Also when using smok pre made coils. when you refilled with e- juice and your air holes are closed, don't open till have you have blown into the device at least 4 to 5 times. It creates "equilibrium" in the tank so that it doesn't leak. If it is leaking after that close your top air holes and open your bottom ones, take a cloth and put it around the bottom ones and blow again 4 to 5 times. This gets all the excess juice out and creates "equilibrium" in the tank.
For wicking you really need a little cotton since this is a tiny tank. When you cut your cotton, cut it at an angle. Read the manual carefully that smoke sent you, you'll get it. Watch this youtube
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Gave up with tfv4 r2 rba. Got myself a tfv8 and its miles better to build on and so much more enjoyable. Doesn't leak. Learnt a few things too. Contact coils give you less spit back & gargling sounds. Spaced coils give more flavour but gives spit back and gargling sounds but can be lessened with how tight your cotton is in the tank. Fits and works perfectly on R80 if you're using the RBA for ohm's 0.25 and up. It's a beast tank and needs at least to 220 watt Mod to use it to its full potential. I'm running currently 26 gauge 316l stainless steel wire, 10 wraps spaced coil and giving me .35 ohms and its marvellous with flavour,
Get new o'rings at a hardware store. There's dozen of different sizes. Read the above comment.