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Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I realise there is threads for the hcigar vt133 that included the vt167 but didn't really cover it.

Any who does any new owners have some settings for this mod?

I have a copper 510 calibration tool being shipped at the moment(could be weeks away from receiving it though)

http://signaturetips.com/calibration-tool-for-dna200-devices.html


http://smokefreemods.m.webs.com/sit...l=http://smokefreemods.webs.com/&dm_package=1

Has anyone else ran the test or have any extra tweaks?

From what I read the device come with evolvs default settings and you should change your cell cut off from 3.09 to something around 2.8-9.

I haven't received my device from ffasttech yet but I was wondering if anyone has any extras they want to add.

I already contacted evolv and ended up frustrated at an electrical veteran advising me to research batteries. It'll be great if someone here can help.

Cheers
 

Angrygod50

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...l-18650-dna200-250.171476/page-7#post-1181938

Steve has everything you need to set it up, you may need to tweak some of the settings like for the batteries your using and the mods watts. I never did the mod internal resistance so I cant help you there but some place in that monster thread it is covered. Hopefully some one will help with that.

The profiles work with all DNA mods from the DNA 75 to the DNA 250 with slight tweaks but they will give you a good start. Steve is the resident DNA guru and most helpful.
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
How about you wait till you get the mod before you modify the mod.. Run it in default till you learn to use it then adjust it to your purpose..... even a crappy mod should come setup to vape at least on a basic level.

This is why people can't get satifaction.... they think they have to change everything. Before having any experience with something.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
If you need help once it comes in, I'm sure you can get it. There are a lot of helpful people here that are willing to help you out. It's not really that hard to set one up (it sounds worse than it is). I have a Therion 166/167 ecig file I posted. You could load that and make a couple of changes and be off to the races. I can you walk you through it, if need be. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

The only changes would be mod resistance, case thermals, and possibly watt hours. I have a couple of different battery setups. What cells do you plan on using? The main thing is don't worry, it will all be sorted.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
25r5 for an all day vape.
Probably something higher for the lower gauge builds at night.
I wasn't hugely fussed on the metre as I'm a chain vaper I'm use to it dying I just really wanted the soft cell cut off (excuse me if I said it backwards) perfect so the first week of vaping this device I'm using most of my battery power.

I was hoping someone had already done the mod thermals but we will wait and see otherwise I'll post them here.

I'm just as excited getting my mod calibration 510 as I am getting my mod haha.
Just an idea but I'd rather pay 10 bucks on Every mod if it had it's own calibration tool oh well I'm glad dna has halfed in price now days I'm happy enough with that.
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
25r5 for an all day vape.
Probably something higher for the lower gauge builds at night.
I wasn't hugely fussed on the metre as I'm a chain vaper I'm use to it dying I just really wanted the soft cell cut off (excuse me if I said it backwards) perfect so the first week of vaping this device I'm using most of my battery power.

I was hoping someone had already done the mod thermals but we will wait and see otherwise I'll post them here.

I'm just as excited getting my mod calibration 510 as I am getting my mod haha.
Just an idea but I'd rather pay 10 bucks on Every mod if it had it's own calibration tool oh well I'm glad dna has halfed in price now days I'm happy enough with that.
I don't have the HCigar VT167. I do have a couple of 167 mods though (Therion and Finder). The case thermals are easy enough to run, just have your batteries between 1/4 to 1/2 charged. It just takes time (3-4 hours). The mod resistance is really easy, just set the resistance to 0 and screw in the Copper Plug, go on the atomizer analyzer and see what the resistance is (I'm guessing it will be somewhere around .004 ohms). I have my profiles and custom screens and theme. Heck if worse comes to worse, I could adjust one of my 167 ecig files with the 25R discharge curve and watt hours. Add a DNA250 and Hcigar Welcome screen and send it to you. All you would have to do is set the mods resistance and case thermals. Like I said, it's really not that hard.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
How about you wait till you get the mod before you modify the mod.. Run it in default till you learn to use it then adjust it to your purpose..... even a crappy mod should come setup to vape at least on a basic level.

This is why people can't get satifaction.... they think they have to change everything. Before having any experience with something.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I don't think I'll enjoy working a 15 hour shift on your advice. I bought this device because I can tailor it to my battery.

Even Unix operating system I recompile the whole system to my hardware because I like it.

I know with this device won't get the fullest battery life out of it using it straight out of the box settings.

If we were all satisfied there would be no drive to improve....

Even in programming, I can write a function better every time I fiddle with it.
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I don't think I'll enjoy working a 15 hour shift on your advice. I bought this device because I can tailor it to my battery.

Even Unix operating system I recompile the whole system to my hardware because I like it.

I know with this device won't get the fullest battery life out of it using it straight out of the box settings.

If we were all satisfied there would be no drive to improve....

Even in programming, I can write a function better every time I fiddle with it.
All that setting the discharge curves and watt hours do is make the battery meter more accurate. The mod itself monitors each cells voltage and will give you the weak battery and cutoff at your Cell Soft Cutoff. For 18650 mods, I set mine to 2.8v (that's under load, it will bounce back a little while at rest). I set my 3s Lipo mods to 3.09v.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I don't have the HCigar VT167. I do have a couple of 167 mods though (Therion and Finder). The case thermals are easy enough to run, just have your batteries between 1/4 to 1/2 charged. It just takes time (3-4 hours). The mod resistance is really easy, just set the resistance to 0 and screw in the Copper Plug, go on the atomizer analyzer and see what the resistance is (I'm guessing it will be somewhere around .004 ohms). I have my profiles and custom screens and theme. Heck if worse comes to worse, I could adjust one of my 167 ecig files with the 25R discharge curve and watt hours. Add a DNA250 and Hcigar Welcome screen and send it to you. All you would have to do is set the mods resistance and case thermals. Like I said, it's really not that hard.

Cheers,
Steve

Yeah I read the vt133 mod resistance was 0.004, I was going to set it to that on the day I receive it. It May take a week or more to receive the 510. It'll bug me forever unless I know it specifically.
Vt133 has to be slightly different? Weight density who knows.
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No, I've never set that up. I usually just send them to people via Email or post them here.

Cheers,
Steve
 

HondaDavidson

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yeah but maximizing battery life is easy....just lower the wattage....

Optimizing for vapor satisfaction I get... I spend days straight at that..... but spending effort for a few more puffs per battery...I just don't get.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Yeah but maximizing battery life is easy....just lower the wattage....

Optimizing for vapor satisfaction I get... I spend days straight at that..... but spending effort for a few more puffs per battery...I just don't get.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

The same as the ecu to a car modified specifically for the intake and cylinder specs for overall better kilometers.

Or even a custom compiled kernel for Linux/Unix gives overall better performance.

If you add all the performance benefit together tuning your mod is somewhat the same. You're not perfecting it for the one puff, you're perfecting it for the yearly use.

Using stock evolve settings when they're made for a 3 cell lipo you have a weak battery warning a lot sooner. (Making it sooner I have to charge, swap batteries)
"Soft cell cut off"

As for the 0.0004~ mod resistance I could be out? Meh I suppose it's because I'm ocd.
You can't tell a 720p movie from a 1080p movie so why did you bother going full hd?

I use lower wattage vaping for higher gauge wire (28ga+) and higher stupid watts for dripping on 24gauge and under builds.

You can't understand why I want the 0.5 difference out of my mod but I can't understand why you wouldn't?

I'd tinker all day with router settings if I'll have 0.5 increased network performance.
That's me sorry if that frustrates you.
 

ShowerHead

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
The case thermals are always different from unit to unit is what I've found.
Now, mine or his or his or hers may be close, but they are not your mod's.
That's easy enough to run, but you don't get to play with your shiny new mod while it runs.
The mod internal resistance is a bit variable or so it seemed from the values I've seen posted. Could be the way it was measured.
Since you have the tool coming, try what I got until you can do your own. 0.0007
I genuinely don't know how being one ten thousandth off would make a difference, but, I bought the tool so I run it.

I love this mod BTW
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Totally right. Guess I wanted to chat about it and nobody has said a bad thing about it.
A lot of mods has their own thread on modifications to case, wire, spring.


This device is going to last me years I doubt I'll need an upgrade.
Big thanks to Steve for sending me his dna167 files. Great help.
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Totally right. Guess I wanted to chat about it and nobody has said a bad thing about it.
A lot of mods has their own thread on modifications to case, wire, spring.


This device is going to last me years I doubt I'll need an upgrade.
Big thanks to Steve for sending me his dna167 files. Great help.
You're welcome my friend. The thing about the DNA chips is they can really be customized. Some people like to do that (I would fall into that category :teehee:) and some don't. I think with the all the tests, it gets it a little bit better. For others, it's good enough as is. I post my Ecig files to give people new to the DNA chip a good starting point. I never discourage people from taking off from there. Have fun and enjoy your new mod!

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
The 0.005~ accuracy each puff. I smoke a lot each day. Say 450 puffs a day x that by a year I'll probably save quarter battery in tc mode haha.

I had to understand these settings though I couldn't leave it be.
I think these thermal settings might matter a lot more if the case didn't dissipate the heat from older kind of batteries?
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I always run my case thermals but I'm not sure how big a difference it makes (it's free to run, so why not).

The mods resistance is good for TC. The mod takes the total resistance it reads and subtracts the mods internal resistance from the total, so it knows the true resistance of your coil(s). The more accurate your resistance is, the more accurate TC will be.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
More accuracy the less heat/power I'm putting into it. Decimal in increase but I mean times that by my daily use and times yearly I'm overall getting more life cycle out of my batteries.

If your a vaper by night or recreation I'm sure the increase won't be worth it to you.
 

dwcraig1

Member For 4 Years
The tool for measuring mod resistance does not work properly with firmware newer than 02-23-2016, This is in reference to the 200 board , it doesn't work properly with any 250 as they are all v 1.2
 

dwcraig1

Member For 4 Years
I didn't know that. What do I use to work around this?
What I did for all my 200's was to use the settings prior to the firmware update where it stopped working. On my one and only 250 I used the value from a 200 with the same case and 510. Hopefully this will be resolved with a future firmware update.
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The tool for measuring mod resistance does not work properly with firmware newer than 02-23-2016, This is in reference to the 200 board , it doesn't work properly with any 250 as they are all v 1.2
I don't understand that. Does the Atomizer Analyzer no longer work? Setting the resistance to 0 and shorting the 510 should give you the mods internal resistance unless the Atomizer Analyzer no longer works or is accurate.

If you can't determine the mods internal resistance, why is that setting even on Escribe? This just doesn't make any sense. Hopefully you can further explain.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
So if I load the firmware to the known working analyzer, run the test and then update firmware while using those values I should be good to go?

Ha sounds like someone needs to debug the newest firmware?

Craig can you send me a link for the known working firmware that the mod resistance analyzer please
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
So if I load the firmware to the known working analyzer, run the test and then update firmware while using those values I should be good to go?

Ha sounds like someone needs to debug the newest firmware?

Craig can you send me a link for the known working firmware that the mod resistance analyzer that works
He said it doesn't work on the DNA250 board (that's what the VT167 has inside it). All DNA250's run V1.2.

I still don't understand if that means the Atomizer Analyzer is no longer working/accurate. I guess I need to go and start digging around on Evolv's forum to see if I can figure out what's going on.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Ok yeah I read he used the same values as mods with same 510 and case. Wow what a waste of 40 bucks... Haha cheers!

So about that accuracy rant before *shrugs*
 

dwcraig1

Member For 4 Years
As you screw in the tool on newer firmware ( the one that made 316 work good) it drops down to 0.007 then "?"
 

dwcraig1

Member For 4 Years
For the tool all one needs is an old cartomizer or 510 adapter with it's end soldered together.
12801295_1163201777037378_7940291951815882477_n.jpg
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I haven't got an old cartomizer or an iron. I'm up shit creek is there a way I can make my 510 plug compatible?
I don't know like attatching a loop to the plug or something with alligator clips?
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I haven't got an old cartomizer or an iron. I'm up shit creek is there a way I can make my 510 plug compatible?
I don't know like attatching a loop to the plug or something with alligator clips?
He was just showing you a way to make cheaply what you already bought. What he is saying, is that wouldn't work on the newer V1.2 Firmware either (all DNA250's). If I'm understanding him correctly, I think he is saying, it will automatically read .007 ohms when you short the 510 (V1.2).

@dwcraig1 is this a known issue on Evolv's forum (I haven't spent much time there lately)? If so, do you have a link to point me in the right direction?" Is this just something you think is happening or is it confirmed by James, etc?

Cheers,
Steve
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Blah I bought the 250 for the extra protection now I'm regretting it.
I wouldn't overreact. Setting the mods internal resistance is just trying to get TC as close to accurate as possible. As far as I know, the DNA nods are the only mods that can be set. It really doesn't have anything to do with protection. Worst case scenario, lets say you set the mods resistance to .004 ohms and it's actually .005-.007. We are talking about 1-3 thousandths of an ohm. In the overall scheme of things, it's not really a big deal. It's just the first time I've heard of this and I'm trying to figure out if it's a known issue or just something DW thinks is happening.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
No I meant the added fuses reverse battery protection. An idiot like me while driving will eventuality put them in wrong. That was the selling point for me as well as being evolv. I wasn't looking for the 250 watts.
I'm thinking the 133 would have been good enough.

I have a ecig file from a Canada store enushi vt167. It said on his vt167 page he has set the mod resistance. I wonder if his results are the correct ones? This is the first I heard of this 510 calibration tool not working.
 

ShowerHead

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
The 0.005~ accuracy each puff. I smoke a lot each day. Say 450 puffs a day x that by a year I'll probably save quarter battery in tc mode haha.

I had to understand these settings though I couldn't leave it be.
I think these thermal settings might matter a lot more if the case didn't dissipate the heat from older kind of batteries?

See? It's totally worth it just from the battery savings!

When I got my first VT133, I didn't do the case thermals. It was a good, but not great vape. I ran the thermals and afterward the vaping was much improved. Some of it is the chip knowing the ambient temp which is a valuable thing. Some is for limits on in mod charging, likely from the lipo beginnings of the chip. But, it only costs the time to do, so why not run it even if for limited benefit?

You'll love the mod since you seem to want to understand the whys and hows.
I'd just stay away from ever opening EScribe again. Too many things to play with! "Oooh, shiny! I'll just change this and see what happens" Been there. For days.
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No I meant the added fuses reverse battery protection. An idiot like me while driving will eventuality put them in wrong. That was the selling point for me as well as being evolv. I wasn't looking for the 250 watts.
I'm thinking the 133 would have been good enough.

I have a ecig file from a Canada store enushi vt167. It said on his vt167 page he has set the mod resistance. I wonder if his results are the correct ones? This is the first I heard of this 510 calibration tool not working.
If you can't actually find out the mods internal resistance with V1.2 (as DW says) then I don't see how that would be anymore accurate then what I did (use the internal resistance from my VT133). Look, every DNA mod I have is between .003-.007 ohms. Most are around .004-.005. We are talking about a really small difference here. I don't think you would be able to discern it one way or the other.If it was me, I would go with the .004 that I had on my VT133. This is the thing, such a small difference could be the variance from one mod to another in the same model (+ and - tolerances).

You can download the Ecig file from the site where you found it. Open up Escribe, load the file (no mod needs to be hooked up), click on the mod tab, scroll down and look to see what the Mods resistance is set at. I really don't think it's a big deal.

Cheers,
Steve
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Yeah I'll settle for your file. If you know about Linux you really like customizing things to your machine. I get it that the 250 can't get it's true value but on average they've all been the same. Oh well case closed. I still have an idiot proof reverse battery protection.
 

Wingsfan0310

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No I meant the added fuses reverse battery protection. An idiot like me while driving will eventuality put them in wrong. That was the selling point for me as well as being evolv. I wasn't looking for the 250 watts.
I'm thinking the 133 would have been good enough.

I have a ecig file from a Canada store enushi vt167. It said on his vt167 page he has set the mod resistance. I wonder if his results are the correct ones? This is the first I heard of this 510 calibration tool not working.
I opened up the Ecig file from the place you mentioned and he has the mods internal resistance set to .0048 (right between the .004-.005 I said almost all of my mods are). I set the mods resistance in the file I sent you to .004. :cheers:

PS By the way, he didn't run the case analyzer. Those are the numbers the chip ships with from Evolv

upload_2017-2-23_9-40-52.png
 

dwcraig1

Member For 4 Years
He was just showing you a way to make cheaply what you already bought. What he is saying, is that wouldn't work on the newer V1.2 Firmware either (all DNA250's). If I'm understanding him correctly, I think he is saying, it will automatically read .007 ohms when you short the 510 (V1.2).

@dwcraig1 is this a known issue on Evolv's forum (I haven't spent much time there lately)? If so, do you have a link to point me in the right direction?" Is this just something you think is happening or is it confirmed by James, etc?

Cheers,
Steve
I'd say it's pretty well known but not discussed much anymore.
 

Mrblack

Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Being not discussed ill go with.
0.004 seems pretty average for quality parts.

Losing a touch of its customization and documention reminds me of how horrible windows turned out lol.
Cheers everyone
 

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