Aluminum vs. Copper

[KingPin!]

Is my mech going to be in parallel or series? How can I tell?

Neither emusic it's a single battery

You know the resistence and voltage of a fully charged battery to start with let's discount sag for the sake of being safe so 4.2v fully charged and resistence is 0.15

I = V / R (4.2/0.15) 28amps! You sure you wanna build that low on a single battery of course there is sag so you could say 3.8/0.15 it's still 25.3amps!

Now to work out the wattage you'll get

P = I x I x R (28x28x0.15) 117.6watts or 96watts with sag

I'd personally say build higher unless you have a dual or more battery parralel mod (series you'll still have same problem)

I'd say lowest you wanna build is 0.2 @21amp (19 with sag) you'll still have a decent 88.2 watts (72w with sag) VTC5a jobs a gooden

 

[r055co]

Neither emusic it's a single battery

You know the resistence and voltage of a fully charged battery to start with let's discount sag for the sake of being safe so 4.2v fully charged and resistence is 0.15

I = V / R (4.2/0.15) 28amps! You sure you wanna build that low on a single battery of course there is sag so you could say 3.8/0.15 it's still 25.3amps!

Now to work out the wattage you'll get

P = I x I x R (28x28x0.15) 117.6watts or 96watts with sag

I'd personally say build higher unless you have a dual or more battery parralel mod (series you'll still have same problem)

He's using IMREN shit batteries that Mooch rates at 17a, I just told him to get some proper/safe batteries like the VTC5A's

 

[KingPin!]

He's using IMREN shit batteries that Mooch rates at 17a, I just told him to get some proper/safe batteries like the VTC5A's

I was editing my post just as you quoted this jobs a gooden! ...

 

[EMusic]

My mech arrives tomorrow! I'm using an HE4 battery, not IMREN. Looking forward to using a mech for the first time!

 

[EMusic]

I received my VGOD Pro Mech and Pro Drip RDA! Here it is:

 

[EMusic]

So I installed my coils (ohms at 0.17) and put in my battery and took a few pulls from the mech and ... YAY! Works great! Very smooth pull and an enjoyable vape. Thank you all for your help!

 

[EMusic]

So the battery I was using (HE4) wasn't putting out much in the way of performance so I switched to the HG2 and now am happy. Big difference between the two batteries! VTC5A is next on the list to pick up.

 

[EMusic]

Since this mech is a single-battery mod, would I get better performance from a single-coil atty? It takes a few hits on my current dual-coil atty to get the hit that I want, and I'm wondering if I am trying to stretch a single battery too thin.

Edit: maybe it's because my ohms are at 0.3?

 

[EMusic]

I switched RDAs to the Recoil RDA and it's ohming at .25 and the vape is that much better, so for now I'll be using this RDA. Next time I'll try a lower-ohm build in my Pro Drip RDA.

 

[EMusic]

The RDA sits 100% flush with the mech! Looks are beautiful with the aluminum shining through and the SS atty on top. Vape is fantastic. I can't wait to throw a VTC5A in there and vape on it.

 

[EMusic]

I changed to a new build (triple-core fused Clapton) that ohms at 0.14 and now I'm getting the hits that I want.

 

[~Don~]

I changed to a new build (triple-core fused Clapton) that ohms at 0.14 and now I'm getting the hits that I want.

.14 on HG2s?

 

[EMusic]

.14 on HG2s?

I was told that 0.14 would be safe with my battery?

 

[EMusic]

You're right. I just did the math with my calculator and it comes out to 30 amps. My mistake!

 

[~Don~]

I was told that 0.14 would be safe with my battery?

Not by any of us HG2's are 18a CDR 20A MVA per Mooch, Sure you could Vape whatever on them, but um yeah no

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/attachments/img_5441-jpg.658875/

 

[EMusic]

What would be a safe resistance for the battery?

 

[~Don~]

What would be a safe resistance for the battery?

From the past conversation and knowing you have 2 battery types both the LG HG2's and HE4's... I'd go with the HE4's for now... 20a CDR 25a MVA...and just build within the limits of said battery.

I am also not one to tell what Ohm's someone should vape at on a single battery mech...But I will tell them to heed Mooch's recommendations from his battery testing.

Apologies if I didn't give a straight answer. But you should read that .14 is for sure not where you should be With both of those batteries.

In my opinion.

 

[EMusic]

From the past conversation and knowing you have 2 battery types both the LG HG2's and HE4's... I'd go with the HE4's for now... 20a CDR 25a MVA...and just build within the limits of said battery.

I am also not one to tell what Ohm's someone should vape at on a single battery mech...But I will tell them to heed Mooch's recommendations from his battery testing.

Apologies if I didn't give a straight answer. But you should read that .14 is for sure not where you should be With both of those batteries.

In my opinion.

Thanks for your help. I'll rebuild it right now.

 

[KingPin!]

Thanks for your help. I'll rebuild it right now.

Emusic does your resistence reader have something that can plug the atty on as well as tube? You be able to measure voltage drop that way and calculate from that ...if not I would assume full 4.2v better to be safe

 

[EMusic]

Yes. 3.48 volts with voltage drop.

 

[EMusic]

I used my ohms calculator and guess what: I'm reading 0.18 ohms with 3.48 volts ending up at 19.3 amps! I'm safe!!

 

[KingPin!]

There you go then jobs a gooden!

 

[KingPin!]

I used my ohms calculator and guess what: I'm reading 0.18 ohms with 3.48 volts ending up at 19.3 amps! I'm safe!!

Sorry one last thing is that battery fully charged?obviously only test that counts is when it's full

Also on future builds I assume assume at the moment since it's new contacts are clean and everything as that will affect voltage drop as well ...best bet is to check it again after each new build on there or after you clean the mods internals

 

[EMusic]

Sorry one last thing is that battery fully charged?obviously only test that counts is when it's full

Also on future builds I assume assume at the moment since it's new contacts are clean and everything as that will affect voltage drop as well ...best bet is to check it again after each new build on there or after you clean the mods internals

Thanks for your help, Kingpin! Yes, the battery I tested was fully charged.

 

[conanthewarrior]

My favourite mech mod is copper, powder coated white on the outside, but I just think this is coincidental- if it was aluminium I would like it just as much.

I have some SMPL clones, in copper, brass, and SS, and the difference between them is not noticeable to me. I did have an aluminium M6, that was nice to use.

The things I look for now in a mech are good, large contacts and a design I like. The material it is made from is usually a second choice, unless I am specifically looking for a metals colour to match a RDA.

 

[EMusic]

I'm loving my new VGOD Pro Mech with Recoil RDA on top!

 

[CashNVape]

I'm loving my new VGOD Pro Mech with Recoil RDA on top!
View attachment 83245

can I see a close up of the "vgod" engraving? assuming it's engraved?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[EMusic]

can I see a close up of the "vgod" engraving? assuming it's engraved?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[CashNVape]

Bullshit

You can get a very responsive very warm, thick flavorful vape between 0.15Ω - 0.2Ω build. Building super sub-ohm under 0.1Ω is not only unnecessary but dangerous.

Let this sink in, 0.00Ω is a dead short and the most accurate Ohm meter was USA Ohm Meters and their published variance was 0.018Ω.

I have that meter. kickASS meter

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[bumrocks]

I'm not trying to be an ass but most of you here seem to be severely misinformed about copper and Aluminum...So let me clarify.

Theoretically, copper conducts electricity better but what is often found are copper alloys that have impurities in them that affect conductivity. But this is not the real issue I refer to.

When I bought the aluminum scndrl (authentic) after it first came out I was blown away that an aluminum mod outperformed probably any copper mod I had owned or at the least was right there with them. This is just the tip of the iceberg...There are actually many who say that over all aluminum is more conductive...And often it is, and here is why.

What you are not taking into consideration is the density of the two metals and are simply looking at charts that tell you which are the most conductive metals...When the density of copper is compared to that of aluminum and taking into consideration the conductivity ratio of aluminum to copper is of 56%, the result shows that on a pound per pound basis, aluminum has an amperage capability that is approximately 1.85 times that of Copper. In other words, one pound of Aluminum has the same electrical capability as 1.85 pounds of copper. So 2 mods of the same size, made of copper and aluminum, the aluminum will win out.

A few more things. This is just my personal experience but aluminum requires more cleaning for proper performance because the oxidation which is invisible, effects the conductivity way more than patina does on a copper. I never knew or understood the importance of cleaning threads on a mod until the noisy cricket....Was my first aluminum mod, I believe. Some of you may argue for some reason, to the rest of you, consider yourself truly informed and knowledgeable on the subject. Vapeon!

 

[CashNVape]

I'm not trying to be an ass but most of you here seem to be severely misinformed about copper and Aluminum...So let me clarify.

Theoretically, copper conducts electricity better but what is often found are copper alloys that have impurities in them that affect conductivity. But this is not the real issue I refer to.

When I bought the aluminum scndrl (authentic) after it first came out I was blown away that an aluminum mod outperformed probably any copper mod I had owned or at the least was right there with them. This is just the tip of the iceberg...There are actually many who say that over all aluminum is more conductive...And often it is, and here is why.

What you are not taking into consideration is the density of the two metals and are simply looking at charts that tell you which are the most conductive metals...When the density of copper is compared to that of aluminum and taking into consideration the conductivity ratio of aluminum to copper is of 56%, the result shows that on a pound per pound basis, aluminum has an amperage capability that is approximately 1.85 times that of Copper. In other words, one pound of Aluminum has the same electrical capability as 1.85 pounds of copper. So 2 mods of the same size, made of copper and aluminum, the aluminum will win out.

A few more things. This is just my personal experience but aluminum requires more cleaning for proper performance because the oxidation which is invisible, effects the conductivity way more than patina does on a copper. I never knew or understood the importance of cleaning threads on a mod until the noisy cricket....Was my first aluminum mod, I believe. Some of you may argue for some reason, to the rest of you, consider yourself truly informed and knowledgeable on the subject. Vapeon!

if this is the case than why do all my aluminium mechs, even after a quick Polish of threads and a little Deoxit (to help lube the threads and keep them from seizing) still gives me a slow not so hot vape like a quick Polish, Deoxit threads copper mod?

The sunlight interacts with vapor to create carcinogenic chemicals that turn people into tree-hugging liberals who only drink white wine

 

[bumrocks]

if this is the case than why do all my aluminium mechs, even after a quick Polish of threads and a little Deoxit (to help lube the threads and keep them from seizing) still gives me a slow not so hot vape like a quick Polish, Deoxit threads copper mod?

Personally, I, unfortunately, do not know about the chemicals you are using and their effect, if any. I use Mothers to polish my piece which I am not using on the inside or on the threads ever, as there is no clear reason to polish threads. I simply use a warm to hot soapy water and a toothbrush on my threads...If I feel it is warranted (and many will frown or shake their head on this one) I will actually use something like a paper clip or even a needle to lightly "scrape" out my threads. I have not used it but am told vinegar is excellent for oxidation removal on aluminum. What I do use on my threads is CRC 2-26 which can be gotten at Home Depot for like $3 and unlike most lubricants "improves electrical properties". If your Aluminum is not performing there is something being missed or some kind of user error being made. If for some reason you are confusing a SS mod as being aluminum, then that explains it all. SS and Titanium look good as a mod but hands down have no choice but to be poor performing mods.

 

[Carambrda]

Personally, I, unfortunately, do not know about the chemicals you are using and their effect, if any. I use Mothers to polish my piece which I am not using on the inside or on the threads ever, as there is no clear reason to polish threads. I simply use a warm to hot soapy water and a toothbrush on my threads...If I feel it is warranted (and many will frown or shake their head on this one) I will actually use something like a paper clip or even a needle to lightly "scrape" out my threads. I have not used it but am told vinegar is excellent for oxidation removal on aluminum. What I do use on my threads is CRC 2-26 which can be gotten at Home Depot for like $3 and unlike most lubricants "improves electrical properties". If your Aluminum is not performing there is something being missed or some kind of user error being made. If for some reason you are confusing a SS mod as being aluminum, then that explains it all. SS and Titanium look good as a mod but hands down have no choice but to be poor performing mods.

If for some reason you are confusing a clone that isn't even a 1:1 clone as being of the same performance level as an authentic, then that explains it all much better. In a well engineered mech the type of metal used is pretty close to being 100 percent cosmetic because things like the voltage drop that's caused by the mod in question can very obviously be measured... much to the point of I don't know why this thread even exists, or, the S/N ratio inherent of the forum website probably has a deeper impact on how hard the mech hits.

 

[CashNVape]

Personally, I, unfortunately, do not know about the chemicals you are using and their effect, if any. I use Mothers to polish my piece which I am not using on the inside or on the threads ever, as there is no clear reason to polish threads. I simply use a warm to hot soapy water and a toothbrush on my threads...If I feel it is warranted (and many will frown or shake their head on this one) I will actually use something like a paper clip or even a needle to lightly "scrape" out my threads. I have not used it but am told vinegar is excellent for oxidation removal on aluminum. What I do use on my threads is CRC 2-26 which can be gotten at Home Depot for like $3 and unlike most lubricants "improves electrical properties". If your Aluminum is not performing there is something being missed or some kind of user error being made. If for some reason you are confusing a SS mod as being aluminum, then that explains it all. SS and Titanium look good as a mod but hands down have no choice but to be poor performing mods.

I have a few SS mods and the only one that performs as well as copper, or brass or even aluminium is my authentic Panzer of course it has solid silver contacts and spring it is still alright. back to aluminium maybe it's more of less weight feeling that aluminium seems not as hot as say brass or copper. most aluminium mods are cheaper than say brass or copper. you would think if aluminium was that much better than brass or Cu it would be higher in the $. as for Deoxit. look it up, it's used on many electronics. I'd use dialectic grease but unfortunately that's messy and don't want to waste it, because it's ment for RF properties.

The sunlight interacts with vapor to create carcinogenic chemicals that turn people into a prig

 

[bumrocks]

...most aluminium mods are cheaper than say brass or copper. you would think if aluminium was that much better than brass or Cu it would be higher in the $....

Is simply based on the cost of material. Aluminum is a much cheaper metal to obtain and use. On average copper costs 3 times more than aluminum for raw material. Add to the fact that it does require more maintenance to maintain peak performance and it is easily damaged as a soft metal, it would be pretty difficult for a company to be able to justify an additional cost for aluminum outside of performance when in reality the difference between the two is probably nominal.

And to the other person...That was an extremely poor attempt at trolling. Your troll daddy would be very disappointed.

 

[Carambrda]

And to the other person...That was an extremely poor attempt at trolling. Your troll daddy would be very disappointed.

Go fuck yourself mate.

 

[CashNVape]

Is simply based on the cost of material. Aluminum is a much cheaper metal to obtain and use. On average copper costs 3 times more than aluminum for raw material. Add to the fact that it does require more maintenance to maintain peak performance and it is easily damaged as a soft metal, it would be pretty difficult for a company to be able to justify an additional cost for aluminum outside of performance when in reality the difference between the two is probably nominal.

And to the other person...That was an extremely poor attempt at trolling. Your troll daddy would be very disappointed.

that makes sense. it would be trouble to sell two products one costs 20 while the other costs 40, than add on a Polish finish for both so bring them to 30 and 50 than pitch that the cheaper 20 part is aluminium but performance is better than the more expencive products t that is copper but jam the price up to 65 for the aluminium because it performs better. I'm pretty sure I've seen this in Chinese sell pitches. just saying

Cloud Chasing

 

[Carambrda]

When I bought my Purge Mods Maelstrom brass it was only 405 Euros. The SS version was 495 Euros so ~$100 more expensive because obviously it is mostly just the impact that the type of metal has on the total cost of the machining, not the difference in cost between the two different types of metal so yeah, some people have spent more on just the cosmetics of just a single mech mod than others like to spend on an entire bunch of complete mech mods, and, if the threads and contacts are in perfect shape as well as are clean, then the impact the type of metal has on the vape simply pales in comparison to the impact the design/machining of said threads and contacts has on this same vape. The better the design and the machining, the smaller the impact of the metal type. Like I said the impact of the metal type on what can be felt (or perceived) on the vape can border right on the edge of nonexistence. In addition, there is something psychologists call "expectation bias" (not to be confused with the "placebo effect", albeit there exist a few similarities there...). But the real reason I'm not trying to judge anyone is because, even though I stand by my conclusion you probably wouldn't be able to prove, objectively, that you can feel the difference on the vape if both the design and the machining are done right, in the end it is still nevertheless a hard proven fact that even the most die hard objectivists among vapers are still only being subjective each time when they decide which mod to buy... just like any and all vapers truly are. Performance of the mech mod matters, and matters a lot. But personally, I, don't see myself trying to scrape the last thousandth of a volt from underneath the soles of my VTC5A battery so that's the point I was trying to make by adding a little bit of my sarcasm.

 

[gamergui]

Also, for me, in order to get a satisfying vape on a tube mod, I have to build low. Like .05 low. Some come from a regulated mod that at 80 watts and a .15-.2 will give you that warm powerful vape. You put a .2 in a tube mod, well I feel like I'm just breathing air

I can't believe you would ever recommend someone to build .05 on a tube mod. That is beyond fucking stupidity. You must have serious brain damage. By now since this post is old you have most likely blown your hand off. .05 at 4.2 volts (no, im not accounting for voltage
Drop) is 84 amps and 350 watts. To claim you vape at that is not cool, it is dangerous and makes you look like a fucking retard. Pushing over 30 amps on a Sony vtc4 is challenging the limits of an 18650 - 84 amps is more than any 18650 PULSE rating, nevermind CR. Building at .05 WILL vent your battery, and WILL ABSOLUTELY cause SERIOUS BODILY INJURY. You stupid pile of fuck.