IF YOU ARE USING GOOD BATTERIES
but the problem usually come from one of 2 things
1. there is something wrong with the mod, damage, chip goes wonky, autofiring etc
in these cases you can get a short and boom or over heat the batteries and merely vent
2. bad batteries battery wrap says 20amp or even 30 amp and its really a 10a CDR battery .
Here you can having venting (not a boom)happen even when nothing is wrong with the mod if you are chain vaping at high watts like 200 on a dual battery config. which can pull over 30 amps per battery which would be very bad on 10a batteries
This is why we always recommend the correct, proper amp and MaH brand name batteries and follow Moochs recommendations. Never by rewrapped batteries. You can put a Cadillac logo on a Hugo, but that doesn't make it a Cadillac. Just on over priced Hugo.
I got the 1 in 10mil from another battery safety broadcast. Pretty sure it is correct. I have only ever heard of one regulated mod venting, and the guy had it in his pocket, so lord knows what happened.
If there is something wrong with the mod, excluding a physical hard short internally that bypasses the IC protection (ultra rare issue) the mod handles it. Autofiring shuts the mod off, chip goes wonky shuts mod off, overheating shuts mod off.
Bad battery wrap.. welll we dont ever recommend anything other than Samsung, Sony, LG since they are proven to be precise in their labeling and spec sheets. So with branded batteries 20 amp IS 20 amp.
Now when you say "pull 30 amp on a 20 amp battery" you need to understand how the IC is working. It is not a steady 30amp fire.. but rather a series of pulses done automatically by the mods IC controller. What is happening is the first stage controller is sending 30 amps current to the 2nd controller, but doing it in very short bursts. Think of it like a movie.. a series of photographs viewed quickly so they seem to be one moving image. Best way I can describe it. Remember, this current is not going to your atomizer. Only to the 2nd control chip to be converted into watts and then to the atomizer.
Now one problem you might find, is a damaged battery wrap. Fix or replace these right away. You can toss them and buy new batteries, you can use heat shrink battery sleeves (make sure the insulator is correctly in place at the top of the battery) Or in a pinch, electrical tape. (until you get your battery wraps). Basically, a damaged battery wrap can cause a short or arc inside the mod, bypassing all the IC protection and ending badly. Fortunately, since we only recommend high quality, brand name, tested and proven batteries, the mod should not blow up, but would heat up and the batteries vent inside. Usually you have a fair amount of time to toss the mod in a toilet or out off the deck, into a sink or cat box.. you get the idea.
99.99% of the time, a regulated mod heating up is not from the batteries, but rather from heat transferred from the atomizer. A heat sink helps reduce this issue. Basically, it is an "air cooled radiator" for your mod. It goes under your tank and over the 510 pin connector. It does exactly what the name implies..absorbs heat before it can reach your mod and IC board inside. Of course, a well built coil also helps keep the heat factor in check. (glows evenly, and not contacting the atomizer casing)
Now here I will mention the MOST important factor. ALL information here relates to regulated mods and NOT to mechanical mods, which are an advanced mod for advanced users. Basically, the information in this thread should be already known by mechanical mod users. Unfortunately, this isn't always the case, but it should be.
A cheap made in China battery might cost you $6.00 a quality brand name Sony might cost you $12.00.. Would anyone let me put a blow torch to their face for the difference in price ($6.00)? Moral.. don't buy the cheap, untrustworthy batteries.
