I don't get paid anything from every company. I've been offered by some smaller companies (not smoant BTW) and declined it. Outside of mikevapes who doesn't take money from vendors and is adamant about it, any other big reviewer will tell you they get paid per review. now whether there is backdoor "give us a good one" we'll never know, but they do get paid per review. and no not everyone is biased, you ever think maybe they just odn't make good products? you realize i gave a good review to the pico 25 and it's the same company as wismec (wismec and eleaf are both sub brands of joyetech) because it's a good device.
Everyone is biased in his/her own personal unique way because there's a
whole list of human bias types on Wikipedia, and that never can be eliminated in full. For me, personally, the Eleaf iStick Pico 25 is not a good device simply because 85 watts is nowhere nearly enough for me, and should in fact be multiplied by 1½ before it could even begin to satisfy my vaping needs, and then I'm not even taking into account the additional wattage output that's required for preheat. So for example the Smoant Battlestar could work for me in theory, and people might even be correct when they keep pointing out it's built like a tank compared to my RX2/3, but in practice the Battlestar is still a shit device because it lacks any kind of preheat feature. What's truly funny about the Battlestar is how many times it got compared to the RX2/3 when the reality is the former is only a 2-battery device, whereas my RX2/3 can be transformed into a 3-battery device as this is a unique feature that comes as part of its original design. Needless to say apples and oranges are completely everywhere when talking about similar looking devices and or similar looking feature sets. Now I'm not pointing at any specific reviewer, but to some certain degree the same kind of philosophy applies to any and all reviewers nonetheless. Whether the reviewer in question is biased purposely to attempt to mislead or not, it's still called bias... regardless.
that's because you have a lot of experience and good devices and can tell the difference. some people in this thread own 0 regulated mods outside of wismec brands hence they can't tell
Personally I don't belong in the category of people you describe, despite you found it necessary to claim that I was. I own five regulated mods, three of which are non-Wismec non-Joyetech non-Eleaf, and, funnily, the one device that did decide to break on me is actually non-Wismec non-Joyetech non-Eleaf. In fact it's Made in USA. So now I own two of those (two identical ones except for their color).
Further, I do have access to a fair number of devices that I don't personally own. In fact I tried so many regulated mods I can't remember them all. They either lack the power output I need and or the battery life on them is shit, or they can't do power curves, or, if they can do, then the power curves on them are not easy/convenient to adjust or use unless you go the expensive route. Expensive, meaning I don't want to spend that much on a regulated mod excepting only some PWM potentiometer mods. This is due to my strong (but certainly not absolute) preference for both mech and PWM (leaning very heavily towards mech) as well as because the only non-Wismec non-PWM regulated ones that can do precisely what I need are 3-battery DNA mods. But I actually prefer 4-battery so that the battery life will impede less on the power curves that I need to use for preheat.
The bottom line is my RX300 with ArcticFox firmware is the only non-PWM regulated mod that factually works best for me because AFAIK there are no other 4-battery mods that can do power curves, and, even if there were, then probably the time/effort it would take to adjust/use the power curves on them would still be a huge con compared to how this all works in ArcticFox if using wattage mode in conjunction with the power curves. I.e., using wattage mode instead of TC mode, set the desired Preheat Type to 'Curve', and use the NF Toolbox software for both editing the power curves and uploading them into the RX300 via USB connection so that simply changing, still in wattage mode, the wattage on the RX300 up or down will cause the power curves to be sized accordingly up or down─conveniently, and in such a way that no further intervention will be required by the user. Let me please repeat that. No further intervention will be required by the user.
Nope never attacked anyone or tried to take it off topic. try again though
Oh here it is:
So much for providing us with your "correct" information.
I have thick skin, though... so please try again as I find this all hugely entertaining, and lucky for me I'm experienced enough at vaping to not choke myself to death on one of my fast clouds with laughter as I'm reading through your posts.
don't know my wording exactly but i started this after spending 2 weeks with the device. to me 2 weeks isn't much time. i know many reviewers use a mod a few days and kick out a review, i don't. all mods are minimum 3-4 weeks but more like 4-6 weeks of use. SO my "not much use" is different from others. it's not the 2 mins you claimed lol.
Even if you could spend 2 whole years with a device, you'd still not be capable to truly learn from that experience. You've made it clear you don't like to use wattage mode in conjuction with high power in conjunction with strong battery life in conjunction with─still in wattage mode─power curves used for preheat in such a way that ease of use doesn't plummet as a result of using them in such a way, and, you've also made it clear you don't grok the concept of connecting ground to chassis and optimizing, for the intended use I outlined─and that you don't like, ground to chassis connection.
as far as the IPV it's all i hear on it, but notice how i said i don't own it, cause i don't lie. Everyone who i know that owned one said it was crap so i never purchased one. My reviews have plenty of evidence like i said i do this for a living, anyone who has the knowledge i have can clearly see it, case in point the AF devs.
Clearly you don't see that anyone capable enough to solder a wire to the 510─like DJLsb Vapes did in his video review of the RX Gen3─already knows more than the knowledge you use for a living... see my
post #68 for conclusive evidence you haven't the slightest idea what you are talking about. As for the ArcticFox devs, they initially ran into an issue that made Wismec mods perform worse with ArcticFox firmware especially in TC mode, but ArcticFox firmware has since been significantly improved, and there is no reason to assume wattage mode performance is degraded─with or without ArcticFox firmware─in any way that can be felt on the vape so you are still only assuming TC mode performance is all that matters, whereas other people are capable to understand that TC mode is clearly NOT all that matters.
here is the predator
mind you had DJL stopped using it after his review, this video wouldn't exist, but doesn't mean it wasn't an issue.
Despite the issue is very much real, the fact you can still easily fix it with JB Weld or super glue is very much real, too, so... if you prefer different issues that are harder/impossible to fix, then stay away from the Predator. Else, the Predator might bite you in the rear, which is where your only brain used to be (before it fell out).