Seems like your finger is on the pulse...and now because of it we all have a nice corner of VU in which to hang out.
I am grateful this thread exists, so thank you @DogMan
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Squonkers are Bonkers
- Thread starter DogMan
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I am grateful this thread exists, so thank you @DogMan
gopher_byrd
Cranky Old Fart
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I've been squonking for 4 years as well. I got my first REO 6/15/14. All 4 are still working and in use! Getting RSA's was a challenge back then. I started with the good ol RM2. I moved on to the Cyclone, Odin, and some the other RM atties Rob came out with. Fun times.
Even to this day I have a REO with me on every business trip. My blue one is dedicated to GOC!
When I started vaping, had no idea about squonking, and not sure I would have picked it up at the time (being a newbie), but I am glad it exists, and grateful for all the choices available today.
I am also thankful for the camaraderie here, as well as all the help I've received from all the rest of you Bonkers...
so THANK YOU ALL!
I am also thankful for the camaraderie here, as well as all the help I've received from all the rest of you Bonkers...
so THANK YOU ALL!
I saw that movie back in the 90s when I rented it on VHS, did not remember the plot now and looked it up on Wiki and seems like a grim tale, I remembered something about the dog and that Don Johnson was in it (I had a brief 'Miami Vice' phase back then)...
I may have to track it down on digital and watch again so as to have proper context for your reply, and if so, I'll have a more intelligent comment later on...
gopher_byrd
Cranky Old Fart
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For shits and grins, I decided this week's business trip will be with all four of my REO Grands. I gave them all a bath and fresh coils/cotton. Should be a fun week vape wise anyway. I'm headed to McComb, Mississippi to work with my new guy. If that is fun or not remains to be decided...
My first RSA was a clone MCV Atomic bottom fed by Rob himself. I bought that one with my REO Grand. After that I bought a Loki Labs Odin, which I still use once in a while.
Never had that problem, but then I never liked the way the button worked with the lever-arm hardware that connects it to the 510, so I used a short piece of high-flex silicone-insulated wire instead:
The result is a button that moves straight up and down, and doesn't hang...
I don't think it was so much an autofire as much as it just kept firing when I put it down in the cup holder. If I so have the inclination to have a retro vaping day, I just may do that to my Peko.
I think it cost me almost $100 Canadian by the time I got the 3D printed parts ordered from France I think it was. I think the kit with the rest of the parts was another $40 or $50.
Now, I can get a Pico Squeeze for $20 Canadian delivered from China.
Hmm I thought they were called districts...Scratching my head.
You'd be better off getting goats.They'll eat anything unlike cows.
I prefer sunsets.The only thing good about a sunrise is when you add Tequila to it.And with that being said here's a song.We wake up to this most every morning when we're here:
If you think that sucks, well, different strokes for different folks.
Where we are, it rarely gets above 90F. The sea breeze moderates the temperatures and pushes the bugs inland.
Oh, and I've never seen as many bugs as in the Yukon and Alaska -- they would darken the damn sky at times!
Eww!
I predict that by the time this thread dies.You'll be yelling something like this below!
The Pico Squeeze 2 kit is regulated and comes with a much better atty than the old kit.
I thought it was (Mike Vapes) with the (Icon)
An upgraded, rounded out DB 160?
well that was fun...not lol
Did my bi-monthly internal resistance testing on my 5As (30) and 30Q's(6) and all barely changed, except one.
I don't have super duper scientific gear, just an Opus charger that has lame internal testing...but I test every new battery I get, mark them with the date I got them and the date I tested them and their IR.
Each of the 5As were great considering having a few pairs nearly 1.5 years...but one stood out.
I put them into the charger each 3 times and average the reading, and the oldest ones were at 49, newest ones at 29-32...but the one 5A was 128 lol...
Needless to say, that one is going to Flash light duty.
It was one of the oldest pairs I had when I used to pound 5As in my mech tubes during my cloudsbroclouds .08-.12 days lol
Irks me having an odd count of batteries though lol
I also remove them from rotation when they wont charge above 4.1v rested.
Any of you test your batteries?
Did my bi-monthly internal resistance testing on my 5As (30) and 30Q's(6) and all barely changed, except one.
I don't have super duper scientific gear, just an Opus charger that has lame internal testing...but I test every new battery I get, mark them with the date I got them and the date I tested them and their IR.
Each of the 5As were great considering having a few pairs nearly 1.5 years...but one stood out.
I put them into the charger each 3 times and average the reading, and the oldest ones were at 49, newest ones at 29-32...but the one 5A was 128 lol...
Needless to say, that one is going to Flash light duty.
It was one of the oldest pairs I had when I used to pound 5As in my mech tubes during my cloudsbroclouds .08-.12 days lol
Irks me having an odd count of batteries though lol
I also remove them from rotation when they wont charge above 4.1v rested.
Any of you test your batteries?
Nah, the Tripple mod came long before the Icon...
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I dont have a charger that can do that (Nitecore D4, UM10 and Efest LUCv6), but do you think a simple multimeter set on 'Ohms' would be accurate enough or even give a useful reading (and not cause a short)?
@Arthur-VU that is a definite no. Most multimeters pass a very small amount of current (from it's internal battery) between the leads to measure resistance based on the voltage drop of that (very small) current, they aren't meant to measure resistance across active supplies especially ones capable of delivery multiple amps like a battery. Basically, don't try to measure resistance across a voltage differential, it can be very bad for the meter. I learn things like this the hard way, of course, oops 
Google "how to test a battery internal resistance" there are plenty of videos and articles. The basics of it, is getting a known value resistor that can handle this task, then measuring the voltage of the battery without a load and then measuring the voltage of the battery across a load (the resistor), and plugging those numbers into a formula to get the internal resistance from the voltage drop.
Google "how to test a battery internal resistance" there are plenty of videos and articles. The basics of it, is getting a known value resistor that can handle this task, then measuring the voltage of the battery without a load and then measuring the voltage of the battery across a load (the resistor), and plugging those numbers into a formula to get the internal resistance from the voltage drop.
$50 will get you a meter designed to measure internal resistance:
https://www.18650batterystore.com/Vapcell-p/vapcell-yr1030-tester.htm
https://www.18650batterystore.com/Vapcell-p/vapcell-yr1030-tester.htm
@Arthur-VU that is a definite no. Most multimeters pass a very small amount of current (from it's internal battery) between the leads to measure resistance based on the voltage drop of that (very small) current, they aren't meant to measure resistance across active supplies especially ones capable of delivery multiple amps like a battery. Basically, don't try to measure resistance across a voltage differential, it can be very bad for the meter. I learn things like this the hard way, of course, oops
Google "how to test a battery internal resistance" there are plenty of videos and articles. The basics of it, is getting a known value resistor that can handle this task, then measuring the voltage of the battery without a load and then measuring the voltage of the battery across a load (the resistor), and plugging those numbers into a formula to get the internal resistance from the voltage drop.
Thanks for the reply, warning and great info.
I had an intuition about what you describe here, and held off on doing anything. I figured that the tiny hand-held multimeter would get fried (most of the cheap ones I've had only have a small slow-blow fuse, which cannot react fast enough) and that is why guys like Mooch have more high-end lab-grade test equipment, in order to handle the high current potential (likely some fat capacitors inside to capture any current surge).
I also did a search and came across this video, which demonstrates a procedure measuring the voltage direct from the cell, and then measuring with a 1 Ohm load in parallel with the cell, and using those measurements and some math to figure out the internal resistance:
Is it possible to have Deja Vu while on a forum?
I've just noticed something with the Pico Squeeze...
Using a thick juice like 85-90VG and up, whether using the included plastic squonk bottle or the Luxotic silicone bottle, after the squonk bottle, gets down to 50% full, there is a lot of resistance to the juice making it up the tube and into the deck of the atty.
This persists whether using the Wasp Nano, Nudge 22 or Druga 22.
Mixing a batch of thinner juice like 70% VG solves this problem and the juice flows more easily, and stays that way until there is barely a drop left inside the bottle.
So, methinks that the diameter of the metal squonk tube is likely restricting the flow due to the viscosity of thicker juice.
I had a similar issue when I first started mixing and trying to pull VG-based nic concentrate into a syringe with a 20g needle (blunt tip) and it just would not flow well via vaccuum suction, but a 14g needle (wider dia than 20g) worked much better, but still had lots of flow resistance.
Maybe a similar thing is happening here?
For now my problem is solved by mixing a lower-viscosity juice for squonking, which also lets it wick faster once it comes into the deck, before the excess gets sucked back.
Using a thick juice like 85-90VG and up, whether using the included plastic squonk bottle or the Luxotic silicone bottle, after the squonk bottle, gets down to 50% full, there is a lot of resistance to the juice making it up the tube and into the deck of the atty.
This persists whether using the Wasp Nano, Nudge 22 or Druga 22.
Mixing a batch of thinner juice like 70% VG solves this problem and the juice flows more easily, and stays that way until there is barely a drop left inside the bottle.
So, methinks that the diameter of the metal squonk tube is likely restricting the flow due to the viscosity of thicker juice.
I had a similar issue when I first started mixing and trying to pull VG-based nic concentrate into a syringe with a 20g needle (blunt tip) and it just would not flow well via vaccuum suction, but a 14g needle (wider dia than 20g) worked much better, but still had lots of flow resistance.
Maybe a similar thing is happening here?
For now my problem is solved by mixing a lower-viscosity juice for squonking, which also lets it wick faster once it comes into the deck, before the excess gets sucked back.
I live there now & nothing has changed, it frigging sucks sweaty donkey balls!
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its that and the size of the squonk pin hole on your RSA...
We wake up to this most every morning when we're here:
If you think that sucks, well, different strokes for different folks.
Where we are, it rarely gets above 90F. The sea breeze moderates the temperatures and pushes the bugs inland.
Oh, and I've never seen as many bugs as in the Yukon and Alaska -- they would darken the damn sky at times!
You gotta love those toxic algae blooms coming out from Okechobe.
and watering restrictions?
Spraying everything for Medflys, etc.
Thanks for the reply.
If it were the squonk pin hole in the RSA, then how come this issue does not exist with the same RSAs when installed and used on the Inbox v3 or the Pulse BF?
Seems to me that both Inbox v3 and the Pulse BF have a wider channel for the juice to flow from the bottle with the silicone tubing that feeds the 510 from the bottle, than the metal tube in the Pico Squeeze. The metal tube in the Pico Squeeze outer-dia seems to be roughly equal to the other mods' silicone feed tube inner-dia. by casual observation.
Just what I noticed with my stuff. Plus I wasn't saying it was the only factor, just an included factor to what you already mentioned.
For instance... The NarDa pin hole is larger than the Haku Venna or regular Haku... fills slightly faster, but not like OMG that was fast...EXCEPT on the Basium... the pin hole tubing etc is larger than the standard 2.5mm, for it was a pain to install the 4x2 tubing from one of my own bottles to the carrier system the Basium has.
Although I do agree with the Silly Cones for the Pico, being slightly on the softer side, the force needed sometimes feels excessive...especially as you noted when it comes to the lower 1/3rd of the bottles capacity.
Ok bonkers, I need some professional opinions but I’ll ask you guys instead. 
I’m limiting my purchases after my last buying spree cost me way more than I had intended so, my freedom smokes has a 15% off tanks and rdas sale going on. I’m looking at the drop solo and the warrior rda. Only a dollar difference between the two. I’m only going to buy one. I will resist getting them both. Thoughts and observations would be appreciated.
Oh and I will eventually wind up with both but they may not be on sale when I get ready to buy again.
Carpe Nidor
I’m limiting my purchases after my last buying spree cost me way more than I had intended so, my freedom smokes has a 15% off tanks and rdas sale going on. I’m looking at the drop solo and the warrior rda. Only a dollar difference between the two. I’m only going to buy one. I will resist getting them both. Thoughts and observations would be appreciated.
Oh and I will eventually wind up with both but they may not be on sale when I get ready to buy again.
Carpe Nidor
That's about 300 miles south of here.
I've got an irrigation well, as does just about everyone in this neighborhood. You wouldn't want to drink the water that comes out of it (it's only ~25' deep), but it keeps the plants happy enough.
Nope, we're more than 100 miles from the nearest citrus groves.
Ok. Thanks for the reply and for sharing the info from your own experience.
Good to know that I am not alone in noticing this. Took me a while to figure out where the restriction was coming from.
Having already taken the Pico Squeeze apart, the top plate has the 510 with a hollow metal feeding pin coming down, which seats into a silicone gasket that binds it to the top of the metal feeding tube. I was tempted to remove the metal feeding tube and use a regular silicone squonk bottle that has the aforementioned 2.5mm dia silicone feeding tube...
However that would force me back to removing the RSA and threading on a refill bottle (like with my other squonkers) since the feed tube connection would then be buried up inside the Squeeze near the fire button and very hard to get to if you pulled the bottle out to refill it.
I am kinda digging the plastic bottle with how you can easily pull it out, dump juice into it, and then pop it back in, and then with the mod hovering over the bottom plate cover, the magnet will literally pick it up back into place.
With a refill bottle and removing/re-installing the RSA, refills are like a 5 min. procedure for me due to hand problems, but with the Squeeze original plastic bottle, it's like a 1-2 min. procedure, and so far, no visible drips from the metal feed tube when the bottle is off, but I still place it on a paper towel or napkin, just in case.
Yup nothing wrong at all with the factory bottles, they will fail though and crack... but a set of 10 replacements are cheap.
I just hated pulling the bottle out and filling that way...and got used to removing the RSAs from other mods and filling via refill bottle...
There is no right way, and to each their own is perfect.
Yea, I hear ya.
The Luxotic silly-cone bottle is a little messy with pulling it out and replacing it on account of the squish-factor when re-installing it, even if you firmly seat the collar that goes inside the cap of the bottle before pushing it up the tube all the way so it is flush enough for the bottom door to sit perfectly flat (it does not always, and this triggers my OCD).
Also, important to remember to only do this (and the plastic bottle too) with an RSA on top, otherwise you can end up with juice all over your hand. Yep, forgot once and it was messy.
Yea, I hear ya.
The Luxotic silly-cone bottle is a little messy with pulling it out and replacing it on account of the squish-factor when re-installing it, even if you firmly seat the collar that goes inside the cap of the bottle before pushing it up the tube all the way so it is flush enough for the bottom door to sit perfectly flat (it does not always, and this triggers my OCD).
Also, important to remember to only do this (and the plastic bottle too) with an RSA on top, otherwise you can end up with juice all over your hand. Yep, forgot once and it was messy.
I always found it messy removing the plastic bottle for I had to make sure I wiped the rubber stopper and metal tube for the bit of juice always ended up on the table.
With leaving the Silicone ones in place and using the refill bottle... that mess never occurs.
No right way about it, just what we've become accustomed to
My Cloud Laboratory Xmod doesn't have room for a refill bottle bc of the 22mm catch up type design (back portion of the mod is curved around the atty). When I remove the bottle I just set the mod on a paper towel to catch the couple of drops that fall while I'm filling it.I always found it messy removing the plastic bottle for I had to make sure I wiped the rubber stopper and metal tube for the bit of juice always ended up on the table.
With leaving the Silicone ones in place and using the refill bottle... that mess never occurs.
No right way about it, just what we've become accustomed to
I keep a roll of TP in my car (because kids) and that comes in handy when I have to fill on the go. I assure you it's not while I'm driving that I do it!
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Some parts of Florida are not nearly as blessed as your part is.
It is good for a person to enjoy where they live. Quite important.
JuicyLucy
My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
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Is that how you "wipe that grin off your face!"
When I used to go down to Boynton Beach with my grandparents to their vacation home, and when we went in July, the humidity was murder and the bugs were like something out of the movie "Aliens", but it rained every day at 2:30pm, for about 20 mins with the sun shining in full.
Back in the 80's I thought nothing of lubing myself up with Hawaiian Tropic Suntan lotion (like a coconut oil base, felt like Crisco) and being either out on the beach all day or on the golf course all day, and I went from a pale Geek-Tan to looking like a Pacific Islander in terms of skin tone, in about 5 days.
Nobody ever mentioned skin cancer back then.
Now I would not venture out in that kind of sun, heat and humidity without a hat, sunglasses, SPF90 or higher, and at least a liter of water in-hand.
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Limelight Gloom clone listed on 3F today. Pretty sure those are stock photos of the authentic so be warned.
http://www.3fvape.com/mechanical-mo...box-mod-black-1-x-18650-8ml.html#.W2rXPnMpAwA
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http://www.3fvape.com/mechanical-mo...box-mod-black-1-x-18650-8ml.html#.W2rXPnMpAwA
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This would piss me off if I was limelight. But guess nothing they can do is worse part.
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Yeah I really wish they wouldn't do that. Normally I take no issues with clones, but leave the branding off of it and dont flat out steal pics of the original to promote the clone.
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