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Imren 18650 2500mah 40amps
- Thread starter Inch44
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Moving to battery junkies. Might get more traffic there.
It's regulated so it should be okay, however, I would suggest getting new batteries as soon as practically possible. To be frank there is no such thing as an 18650 battery that can safely discharge at 40 amps continuously. Imran, Efan, AWT, Efest, MJOX, and most other companies that specifically target vapers buy B and C bin batteries from Samsung, LG, Panisonic, and Sanyo (they used to do the same with Sony, but Sony is currently rebuilding from the earthquakes and tsunamis) and rewrap them whilst falsifying the specs on the batteries.
Your best bet is to buy Samsung or LG batteries. The Samsung 25r is a great cell.
As a note, I personally use mechs and thus need more amperage. I buy NOS Sony VTC4 (2100 mah, 14.29C cells meaning they can discharge at 30amps) from http://liionwholesale.com/ which is an awesome company that tests each batch of batteries they get in to avoid selling their customers bad or counterfeit batteries.
Your best bet is to buy Samsung or LG batteries. The Samsung 25r is a great cell.
As a note, I personally use mechs and thus need more amperage. I buy NOS Sony VTC4 (2100 mah, 14.29C cells meaning they can discharge at 30amps) from http://liionwholesale.com/ which is an awesome company that tests each batch of batteries they get in to avoid selling their customers bad or counterfeit batteries.
The .2 ohms doesn't matter too much, its the wattage setting. At .2, you wont likely hit the bottom of the scale. A good 20 amp battery will output ~70 watts. So a 20 amp battery should be good. Not sure about the quality of the Imren batteries. But at 2500 mah, they are likely 20 amp continuous batteries. If you vape your .2 at 50 watts, the batteries will be barley working. At an honest 150 watts, you would be a bit over the 20 amp continuous average current rating. I myself would use them, and vape happily for days @ 15-20 watts. If you want to push 150, i would grab some 30 amp batteries. VTC4s.
I can't believe there are veteran vapers and even well known youtube reviewers that still don't get that.
madmonkey
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Boomstick bud, you know I usually agree with you but it does matter if you're regulated device can't step up/down the output to handle .2 ...it matter's greatly if your device can only switch limit/regulate a coil down .4 or .5 or something...then that .2 matter's alot
I agree with you, just had to split hairs
If they are identical and you use them together and charge them together then yes. The only way I could see potentially having a problem with them is chain vaping at 150w for an extended period of time. Even then, if the cells started to overheat the circuit board would probably get hot also and shut down. Unless there was a malfunction of some kind, I'm not sure if you could get those batteries to vent in that mod if you tried (please don't try
). I wouldn't hesitate to use them. You could try vaping at high wattage with the battery door off and keep your fingers touching the batteries to see if they get warm at all. That could eliminate the speculation.So you were being a wise guy huh? Poor taste? Nah. Bad joke? Maybe.
Yup.
The other thing I find a lot of people don't get yet is that in VV and VW mods battery amp draw is highest at lowest battery voltage, unlike with mechs.
This is so true and never brought up. I can see a few years from now, somebody who never learned battery saftey because he has always used reg mods, using some really old, dead batteries and hiss hiss vent happends. I think reg mods are giving a people a false sense of security, thinking nothing can go wrong because they have a chinese chip protecting them.
madmonkey
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Lets expand on what @Ryedan is saying...with regulated mods it comes down to which chipset you use and how efficient it is and what safeties are and are not built into it and if it's stepping up or down it's voltage or both and how it does it. I am not an expert and I am not at my home laptop with all my reference links to bring up and help me write this so I am not going to get super technical or into it because I don't want to misspeak but in the vaping world we use different chipsets to accomplish the same goal and even though the basic operating principals are the same, how efficient and their method can change their amp draw. The less efficient a chipset is the more power and amps it will tax from your battery to accomplish it's goal,
@Slurp812 and @BoomStick 's point is that the actual resistance of the coil doesn't effect the battery's amp drain the same like it does on a mech but the amount of wattage you have the set chipset to produce does. "Buck, boost, or buck/boost" is a cool way of saying "step down, step up, or step up/down converter." All regulated mods are DC to DC converter chipset boards designed with limiters and gates to control the flow of current from the battery. High powered box mods like the IPV's and the Segelei's or even the OKR and NIOS Raptor boards are step down converters and require the two batteries in series because they step down the voltage. They take the high voltage in from the two batteries running in series and pinch and limit the output like a dam holding back a river so the actual amp drain draw off the battery isn't the same as what is going to the coil, but what the chipset needs to perform this regulatory function. The coil resistance will have an impact on the battery amp draw to a point like with an unregulated mod but it is opposite in regards that the less power and lower the available voltage the battery has the more current the chipset will draw to continue to output a constant power level that the device is set to. This can be seen even by playing with Steam Engine's battery drain tool feature. I recommend as part of learning battery safety everyone playing with it and getting an idea of the theory and practical application of this.
In variable voltage only regulated mods, on top of remaining power level in the battery, switching the voltage and/or resitance level has a direct effect on the battery amp drain to the chipset. In variable wattage mods, switching the desired wattage only has this effect as the board has been designed to calculate and compensate for whatever resistance level you put on it to produce the same amount of wattage regardless of you switching between atomizers and coils as long as the board has been designed to work with the resistance level you are trying to use with it.
with a single battery regulated device you usually have either Step up only (like a DNA 20/30) or both Step Up/Step down (DNA40D.) Set up converters work more like putting your finger on the end of a garden hose covering it partway. By limiting the opening the water has to travel threw you increase it's pressure causing to leave the hose with more force. Step up converters work like this in that they momentarily trap energy within them and then quickly release this built up energy rate at a higher output rate then the battery is capable of in it's natural unregulated state. Again, the less efficient the converter the higher the drain off the battery to compensate to achieve the desired results.
This is a very crude and overly simple explanation of how it works but it is the basic idea. Again, with variable wattage type devices the wattage setting itself effects current draw off the battery regardless of resistance as long as that resistance is with in the chipset's range of operation.
where as a variable voltage device changing the voltage level or the resistance level will change the amp draw off the battery as well because it's not calculating to fire at a constant wattage...it's just firing the device at whatever voltage you have set the device for threw whatever resistance coil you have on it and the drain will be according to this and the drain will be higher off the battery than the amps to the coil to make up for power loss depending on the effiecientcy of the chipset being used.
A great example of a Variable Voltage only device that gives confusion to why people think that resistance level would react the same as in a Variable wattage device is a Provari 2.5. The chipsets in those mods have a 3.5 amp output limit but depending on your settings the chip is drawing current in at a much higher rate than it is putting current out and that is why a IMR with at least 6 amps is required to power the device. You have on it a 2 ohm coil set to 4 volts and you need 2 amps of current to get 8 watts...well the device has to pull 2.5-3 amps or maybe more depending on your batteries power level and the voltage it is at to make up the difference to give you that steady 8 watt output. On top of your voltage setting and resistance, the amount of power left in your battery determines the amp drain as well in variable voltage...the lower the starting level of volts with your battery the more current it needs to pull to make up the difference on the output.
A great example of a Variable Wattage only device is a DNA 30 mod. it has a maximum current. It has a maximum current draw of 12 amps with a maximum output of only 10. This is to make up for the power loss is translation because the device is only 94 percent efficient. 94 is actually really good, really good. At this level of efficiency on a fully charged battery the amp drain can even be lower than the amp output at the coil. but as the battery's life fades and get closer to needing to be charged you still need that little extra intake to make the difference....they're for safety as well.
But why does only wattage setting effect the amp draw on variable wattage and not changing the resistance? Because the chipset calculates the necessary amount of voltage needed to fire the atomizer at the wattage level it's set to. It's kinda like the difference between a manual and automatic transmission in a car. In a manual transmission you have to select the proper gear (voltage) to get the required speed (wattage) out of your car. In an automatic you accelerate to your desired speed and the transmission chooses the right gear for you.
The chipset has a range of resistances that it is programmed to handle and the power intake for a desired wattage is the same regardless of the resistance of the atomizer...it takes in the same amount of power required for the set wattage and either gates and limits and gates and increases output voltage necessary to fire the device at said wattage. You increase the wattage setting you increase the required demand on the battery to perform this function and by the same token when the wattage level is lowered you lower the demand on the battery to achieve the similar goal. Where the amp drain at the same wattage setting occurs differs or increases with variable wattage devices is the battery life...as the battery drains and it's available voltage lessens the chipset draws more amps on it to compensate.
@efektt .... I agree with that statement to a point. I agree that people believe that they have a chipset protecting them so they don't have to worry...but that is why I always recommend these days that people start with something like a Segelei or an IPV mod to start with while they learn battery safety to give them somewhat of a safety net. There's box mods like the OKR mods that only have protection like mosfets and fuses because those step down converters weren't designed with vaping in mind and they don't have the protections built in like the DNA and Yihi chipsets have. But at least vaping chips like that with the safeties they have built in I like to think it gives new vapors to be able to use sub ohm clearomizers if they wish to start out with those much more safely with fewer beginning instructions to get them up and running and give them a much wider variety of vaping options and can learn while they vape as apposed to just screwing a .2 ohm subtank on a mech mod with the wrong battery and starting the clock till something goes wrong.
Yeah I know, I rambled and went on a long one again...but I wished I had someone to explain all this to me when I started vaping and I try and do the same for others. I try and explain it as simple as possible because it's a complicated thing...at least it feels that way to me and feel free to tear this one apart if you'd like. I tried to cover all the basics and organize it all proper but if I had a dyslexic thought and switched the two around please tell me. I know I repeated some things but I tried to expand on what I was saying so it all tied in and made sense. Thanks and I hoped this helps.
@Slurp812 and @BoomStick 's point is that the actual resistance of the coil doesn't effect the battery's amp drain the same like it does on a mech but the amount of wattage you have the set chipset to produce does. "Buck, boost, or buck/boost" is a cool way of saying "step down, step up, or step up/down converter." All regulated mods are DC to DC converter chipset boards designed with limiters and gates to control the flow of current from the battery. High powered box mods like the IPV's and the Segelei's or even the OKR and NIOS Raptor boards are step down converters and require the two batteries in series because they step down the voltage. They take the high voltage in from the two batteries running in series and pinch and limit the output like a dam holding back a river so the actual amp drain draw off the battery isn't the same as what is going to the coil, but what the chipset needs to perform this regulatory function. The coil resistance will have an impact on the battery amp draw to a point like with an unregulated mod but it is opposite in regards that the less power and lower the available voltage the battery has the more current the chipset will draw to continue to output a constant power level that the device is set to. This can be seen even by playing with Steam Engine's battery drain tool feature. I recommend as part of learning battery safety everyone playing with it and getting an idea of the theory and practical application of this.
In variable voltage only regulated mods, on top of remaining power level in the battery, switching the voltage and/or resitance level has a direct effect on the battery amp drain to the chipset. In variable wattage mods, switching the desired wattage only has this effect as the board has been designed to calculate and compensate for whatever resistance level you put on it to produce the same amount of wattage regardless of you switching between atomizers and coils as long as the board has been designed to work with the resistance level you are trying to use with it.
with a single battery regulated device you usually have either Step up only (like a DNA 20/30) or both Step Up/Step down (DNA40D.) Set up converters work more like putting your finger on the end of a garden hose covering it partway. By limiting the opening the water has to travel threw you increase it's pressure causing to leave the hose with more force. Step up converters work like this in that they momentarily trap energy within them and then quickly release this built up energy rate at a higher output rate then the battery is capable of in it's natural unregulated state. Again, the less efficient the converter the higher the drain off the battery to compensate to achieve the desired results.
This is a very crude and overly simple explanation of how it works but it is the basic idea. Again, with variable wattage type devices the wattage setting itself effects current draw off the battery regardless of resistance as long as that resistance is with in the chipset's range of operation.
where as a variable voltage device changing the voltage level or the resistance level will change the amp draw off the battery as well because it's not calculating to fire at a constant wattage...it's just firing the device at whatever voltage you have set the device for threw whatever resistance coil you have on it and the drain will be according to this and the drain will be higher off the battery than the amps to the coil to make up for power loss depending on the effiecientcy of the chipset being used.
A great example of a Variable Voltage only device that gives confusion to why people think that resistance level would react the same as in a Variable wattage device is a Provari 2.5. The chipsets in those mods have a 3.5 amp output limit but depending on your settings the chip is drawing current in at a much higher rate than it is putting current out and that is why a IMR with at least 6 amps is required to power the device. You have on it a 2 ohm coil set to 4 volts and you need 2 amps of current to get 8 watts...well the device has to pull 2.5-3 amps or maybe more depending on your batteries power level and the voltage it is at to make up the difference to give you that steady 8 watt output. On top of your voltage setting and resistance, the amount of power left in your battery determines the amp drain as well in variable voltage...the lower the starting level of volts with your battery the more current it needs to pull to make up the difference on the output.
A great example of a Variable Wattage only device is a DNA 30 mod. it has a maximum current. It has a maximum current draw of 12 amps with a maximum output of only 10. This is to make up for the power loss is translation because the device is only 94 percent efficient. 94 is actually really good, really good. At this level of efficiency on a fully charged battery the amp drain can even be lower than the amp output at the coil. but as the battery's life fades and get closer to needing to be charged you still need that little extra intake to make the difference....they're for safety as well.
But why does only wattage setting effect the amp draw on variable wattage and not changing the resistance? Because the chipset calculates the necessary amount of voltage needed to fire the atomizer at the wattage level it's set to. It's kinda like the difference between a manual and automatic transmission in a car. In a manual transmission you have to select the proper gear (voltage) to get the required speed (wattage) out of your car. In an automatic you accelerate to your desired speed and the transmission chooses the right gear for you.
The chipset has a range of resistances that it is programmed to handle and the power intake for a desired wattage is the same regardless of the resistance of the atomizer...it takes in the same amount of power required for the set wattage and either gates and limits and gates and increases output voltage necessary to fire the device at said wattage. You increase the wattage setting you increase the required demand on the battery to perform this function and by the same token when the wattage level is lowered you lower the demand on the battery to achieve the similar goal. Where the amp drain at the same wattage setting occurs differs or increases with variable wattage devices is the battery life...as the battery drains and it's available voltage lessens the chipset draws more amps on it to compensate.
@efektt .... I agree with that statement to a point. I agree that people believe that they have a chipset protecting them so they don't have to worry...but that is why I always recommend these days that people start with something like a Segelei or an IPV mod to start with while they learn battery safety to give them somewhat of a safety net. There's box mods like the OKR mods that only have protection like mosfets and fuses because those step down converters weren't designed with vaping in mind and they don't have the protections built in like the DNA and Yihi chipsets have. But at least vaping chips like that with the safeties they have built in I like to think it gives new vapors to be able to use sub ohm clearomizers if they wish to start out with those much more safely with fewer beginning instructions to get them up and running and give them a much wider variety of vaping options and can learn while they vape as apposed to just screwing a .2 ohm subtank on a mech mod with the wrong battery and starting the clock till something goes wrong.
Yeah I know, I rambled and went on a long one again...but I wished I had someone to explain all this to me when I started vaping and I try and do the same for others. I try and explain it as simple as possible because it's a complicated thing...at least it feels that way to me and feel free to tear this one apart if you'd like. I tried to cover all the basics and organize it all proper but if I had a dyslexic thought and switched the two around please tell me. I know I repeated some things but I tried to expand on what I was saying so it all tied in and made sense. Thanks and I hoped this helps.
I have green imren 18650 says 3.7v and 37a. These numbers are inflated on the amp end for continuous discharge. I also have been using these cells for some time now without fail. I keep close watched on voltage and recharge as soon as they drop. I would have a quality set of cells for back up.
Yeah there working well I have Sony vtc5s as my main