Become a Patron!

NI200 Coils powered by a VW Device, Not Temp Control Device

UncleRJ

Will write reviews for Beer!
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
Reviewer
Moderator
I know that for the new breed of Temp Controlled Devices you need to use NI200 or Titanium Wire.

Is there any reason why NI200 wire coils won't perform well when powered by a straight VW device?

Pretty sure I already know the answer but I still want the VU peanut gallery to chime in.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Unlisted Vendor
I make my coils at around .06 which can't be even read by my other devices :)
This. 9-10 wraps of 26ga with a 3mm diameter gets me .06-.07. It has resistance, not much, though. I think firing that on a mech would be a real bad move, lol. And as @AmandaD said, most devices won't read that low, unless they have TC. iPV4's read to the thousandth and fire down to .050 in TC mode.
 

Mike H.

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I was under the impression Ni200 changes resistance with different wattage or heat levels...If this is the case ,then if you build a coil with a.5 resistance and use 15 watts what happens when you use 25 watts?..will this bring the resistance to a non safe level for some?

Kanthal is a steady resistance at any heat...i would think more safe for non temp control devices if the above is indeed correct.
 

Cloudy Peak Vapes

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Unlisted Vendor
I was under the impression Ni200 changes resistance with different wattage or heat levels...If this is the case ,then if you build a coil with a.5 resistance and use 15 watts what happens when you use 25 watts?..will this bring the resistance to a non safe level for some?

Kanthal is a steady resistance at any heat...i would think more safe for non temp control devices if the above is indeed correct.
The resistance is extremely low, if you wrapped a coil to .5 I don't think it would be even close to fitting in an RDA. It does increase quite a bit when fired. My understanding is that there is a linear relationship to the resistance of Ni200 as related to heat. So your mod gets an initial "base" reading, then from there it cuts power in and out to maintain around your desired temperature. The properties of the Ni200 allow this to be achieved. The drastic change in resistance allows the mod to know how much power to provide. Kanthal changes so slightly in resistance that it wouldn't work with this.
 

Ryedan

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I know that for the new breed of Temp Controlled Devices you need to use NI200 or Titanium Wire.

Is there any reason why NI200 wire coils won't perform well when powered by a straight VW device?

Pretty sure I already know the answer but I still want the VU peanut gallery to chime in.

I've run two TP'ed setups in non-TP VW mode, a single coil Ni build at 0.12 ohms when cold and a dual coil Ti build at 0.23 ohms when cold. I've kept the 0.12 ohm build on a Sigelei 150 because of the low starting resistance, the other has been on the Sigelei, a DNA40 and a VF ver 3 clone (40 watt TP'ed).

All these combinations run just fine for me. In VW mode with these devices when the resistance changes either the mod picks up the new resistance on the fly and changes the voltage output to keep the watts the same or I just don't notice the lowering of power as I vape.

Hope this helps RJ :)
 

5150sick

Under Ground Hustler
Staff member
VU Administrator
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Press Corps
Member For 5 Years
Mod Team Leader
I don't think nickel is safe when heated above 700 (maybe 800?) degrees.
That is the problem with vaping on ni200 without a TC mod.
Who knows what heat you may be reaching.
Also just 1 burnt hit would not only be WAY worse health wise then kanthat or nichrome it would also change the nickel and make it unsafe to even use at all from that point on.
This is pure nickel.
No one has ever vaped it long term at all.
Why tempt fate?
 

Ryedan

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I don't think nickel is safe when heated above 700 (maybe 800?) degrees.
That is the problem with vaping on ni200 without a TC mod.
Who knows what heat you may be reaching.
Also just 1 burnt hit would not only be WAY worse health wise then kanthat or nichrome it would also change the nickel and make it unsafe to even use at all from that point on.
This is pure nickel.
No one has ever vaped it long term at all.
Why tempt fate?

5150sick, AFAIK all the wires we use have possible issues when dry burned (or we have a burnt hit) because of oxides that could form on them and then slough off into our vape. Nichrome is made of nickel and chrome. Kanthal is made of iron, chrome and aluminum. Chrome can make hexavalent chromium (chromium VI) which could be bad to inhale. Ni can make Ni oxide (Ni II) which could be bad to inhale. Titanium can make Ti dioxide (TiO2) which is classified as possibly carcinogenic to inhale. SS has chrome in it. Ultimately what matters IMO is that we don't inhale enough of these substances to give us health problems.

None of these materials changes fundamentally when heated red hot, they just form oxide coatings. So which oxides do we have to worry about and is there a chance that we will intake enough of any of them to cause us damage? AFAIK no studies have been done yet that clarify this for us.

No one has vaped long enough to know what vaping in general will do to us yet either.

I also don't make contact coils for temperature protected mods (that takes care of Ni and Ti) and in my experience the chance of having a hot leg with a non-contact coil is really small. Yes it can happen if a coil shifts (it hasn't happened to me yet though), but we can have a hot leg with a Kanthal coil too and who knows what we're vaping then.

This is all of course my opinion only from the research I've done for myself and I know it will not work for everyone. But when you say something like "just 1 burnt hit would not only be WAY worse health wise then kanthat or nichrome it would also change the nickel and make it unsafe to even use at all from that point on", I would appreciate more input from you so I could understand how you got to that conclusion and if I'm really missing the boat here.
 

cobalt327

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
With an eVic VTC Mini/Lemo atty combo, I can use a 28 gauge 10/9 turn Ni200 coil that measures 0.12 ohm that works equally well in TC or power mode. Same can be said of a 316 SS coil measured at 0.52 ohm. Obviously these are not the only resistances that work- they are simply what I have on hand ATM.
 
Last edited:

VU Sponsors

Top