I need help. My kangertech subox mini kit is misreading ohms. My RBA's coil got burnt so I rebuilt it, I am experienced with RDA's so I went ahead and built It using 24 gauge kanthal. At first it worked fine, and read 0.5 ohms until recently it started randomly increasing the ohms until it goes up to 9.9 and then flashes for a few seconds. Please help.
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Subox kit issue :/
- Thread starter Zach Wild
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UncleRJ
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I assume you have checked and rechecked the center pin connection?
And to make sure your RBA coil connections are as pure as the driven snow backed up by the findings of your dedictated Ohm reader?
Have you tried a different topper on the box?
Like the Subtank Mini that came with it?
Have you burnt rare spices and herbs to satisfy the vaping gods before trying a new APV for the first time?
And to make sure your RBA coil connections are as pure as the driven snow backed up by the findings of your dedictated Ohm reader?
Have you tried a different topper on the box?
Like the Subtank Mini that came with it?
Have you burnt rare spices and herbs to satisfy the vaping gods before trying a new APV for the first time?
I am using the RBTA part of the subtank mini, and ihave no other working tank.
UncleRJ
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Have you tried any of the OCC coil heads that came with the kit?
Sorry for all the questions.
It's not like I am there in person so I can see what is going on.
Sorry for all the questions.
It's not like I am there in person so I can see what is going on.
I fixed the issue, the RBA's lead connection screw things werent tight enough
madmonkey
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That is a very common problem with most cheaper RDA's or low quality clone RDA's....the trap screws either come loose and the leads don't make a solid connection and short out or on drippers the screws can "pinch" the end of the lead or cut it completely causing it to short out. what's worse is the lead can sit against the post due to pressure holding it in place and unless you physically touch it or bump the deck right it will meter as if everything is fine till you apply power to it till BAM and it's shorting out leaving you confused and pissed at the very least if you're lucky. The worst thing is when a trap screw cuts the end of a lead and the trimmed wire falls inside the post and it causes continual shorts and if you don't know what you're looking for you'll never find it and think your atty is shot when all you have to do is remove the screw completely, turn upside down and shake. Some things just to keep in mind for the future if you ever decide to dive further into RDA's since you say you're an experienced builder....hell you might already know all this, but I wrote it out just the same for the next person that comes along and doesn't to try and help them.
Welcome to Vaping Underground...we hope you like it here and enjoy your stay
That is a very common problem with most cheaper RDA's or low quality clone RDA's....the trap screws either come loose and the leads don't make a solid connection and short out or on drippers the screws can "pinch" the end of the lead or cut it completely causing it to short out. what's worse is the lead can sit against the post due to pressure holding it in place and unless you physically touch it or bump the deck right it will meter as if everything is fine till you apply power to it till BAM and it's shorting out leaving you confused and pissed at the very least if you're lucky. The worst thing is when a trap screw cuts the end of a lead and the trimmed wire falls inside the post and it causes continual shorts and if you don't know what you're looking for you'll never find it and think your atty is shot when all you have to do is remove the screw completely, turn upside down and shake. Some things just to keep in mind for the future if you ever decide to dive further into RDA's since you say you're an experienced builder....hell you might already know all this, but I wrote it out just the same for the next person that comes along and doesn't to try and help them.
Welcome to Vaping Underground...we hope you like it here and enjoy your stay
I am talking about the RBA part of the kanger subtank not a rda
UncleRJ
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I think he got that. The principal and the aggravation is exactly the same in all instances
madmonkey
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Yes, that is very true, but it's best to start with 26 or 28 gauge rebuilding the RDA deck since those trap screws are so damn small till the builder gets the hang of it and knows how a lead looks when it's trapped properly or just is playing like it is before trying to jam 24 gauge wire onto that tiny deck and it won't properly trap into place but looks good at first glance and shorts out a few seconds later when fired.
Same goes for rebuilding the OCC coils....5 wraps of 26 gauge Kanthal around a 7/64th drill bit will give you a slightly higher resistance to about the same as a stock OCC coil but it's almost the same size as the juice inlet holes making it the perfect drill bit to hold the coil in place while you install the bottom insulator and center pin so the coil is "floating" in place in the center of the OCC coil assembly and not touching the walls at all again preventing it from shorting out.
Vaping is all about personal preferences, I've said it many times before and I am sure I will say it many times again,,,,however....there are good baseline gauges and inner diameters and types of attys to start with that are easier to learn to build and get the feel of and hang of rebuilding before you just take off running trying to build the harder atty's....it's a journey not a marathon...sometimes baby steps are required. Not everyone can drive a car with a manual transmission right from the get go, but they can learn just fine with an automatic, get their license and learn to drive a stick fairly well in time....just like not everyone can build a zipper coil, but they can start with a simple 5 wrap spaced coil, than micros off all different shapes and sizes, then vertical builds, and finally progress into "trick" builds just the same
Hi Juan - if you're got no atomizer attached, it'll probably read 9.9, or the highest resistance possible - too high to fire, because there's nothing attached to fire. Once you attach your atomizer, given that you've installed a 0.5 ohm coil, you want it to read 0.5 (there's some variance with the stock coils, 0.6 wouldn't be unreasonable). If you installed a 1.2 ohm coil and it's reading at 0.5, though, you've got a problem.
I have a question... I have a kangertech subox mini kit and I have been using it for almost 3 1/2 months. I am having an issue where I am getting this gross metal taste in my mouth and I don't know whats causing it. I has been happening on and off since I got it. I think it's the coils but I'm not sure. This is the first vape mode I've owned as I used to smoke cigarettes. What can I do to stop this yucky taste??? I have been using manger occ 1.2 coils that I ordered from China. Could some of the coils just be bad because it doesn't happen with every coil. I change the coils every 2 weeks. After about 40ml of vape juice has been used.
Any help or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
Any help or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
man I bought a bag of those premade kanger RBA coils put a brand new one in and my ohms are jumping from 0.5-2.9 (but not all the time sometimes it stays steady at 0.6 then mid hit it jumps and the voltage jumps and i get a harsh burnt toke) i took it out put another new one in same thing, so i took out the new one and put my old one back in( the one i had in before i bought the new ones) and its steady at 0.5 like what is going on? im fairly new to this just got my kanger subox mini (came with subtank mini obv) I've changed my RBA coil 2 times (it came with 2 pre made coils) and it was fine no jumping and they both read 0.5 ohms steady, bought a brand new batch of them (20 coils and cotton the Kanger brand ones) and everyone ive tried the resistance jumps from 0.5-2.9+ highest ive seen was 3.2 but only once.....my subox is basically brand new no older than a month and as i said ive changed it 2 times before with the same coils with no problem (steady at 0.5) i dont have a resistance reader (an external one and i realize that the on board one isn't completely accurate and I am looking for a decent one to buy if anyone has some input on which ones are best and where to get it that would be great) but I really don't get this, right now i got my old coil in and its fine a 0.5 ohms and other than the nasty gunk taste (which i somewhat cleaned off before putting it back in) its working fine, steady (at 0.5 ohms) and staying that way..... Anyone have this happen to them or have anything i can possibly try to fix this annoying problem would be greatly appreciated I'm basically stumped and cannot understand why this is happening with Brand New coils from the manufacturer (Kanger) and basically a brand new device.... man I NEED A SMOKE
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