General battery and which to get.

[DiegoMA]

Hello everyone so to start I still pretty new to vaping and I've been wanting to get into rebuildables but have no idea where to start. I've been vaping on a Ego One using .5 ohm coils for about 4 weeks and even though I did enjoy it I did lose a bit of intense for it, so I went down to a local vape shop and asked what the next step would be and they suggested I get a Kanger SUBOX Mini Starter Kit I did my research on the whole unit and overall I seem pretty happy with it. Now I found a website to get it on https://www.myvaporstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KRSBk1&CartID=1 but no knowledge on batteries. I tried to look into it but got pretty confused about it simply because the youtubers that posted the vids just expected you to know a bit. So some general battery info would be nice and if you can look at the battery options on the page to which one you would get with which changer would be awesome. Thanks and have a nice day/night. If I'm in the wrong thread/board tell me where to post.

 

[UncleRJ]

$80 for the Sub-box is a bit steep.

Look around here a bit, they can be found for under $60

A couple of Samsung 25R's and a Xtar 2 bay charger and you are in business!

 

[madmonkey]

http://vapingunderground.com/thread...louds-bro-thread-sticky-edition.78126/#header

Hey bud and welcome...sorry no one has gotten back to you sooner....batteries are a "hot" topic around here....no pun intended. They have their own section. But the basics can seem confusing I know because their specs relate heavily and closely to ohms law and on how safely your high powered device works.

Generally, 18650 IMR or INR batteries are what mainly are used for vaping...the numbers are the size and shape of the battery and the "IMR" is a type. Each battery has three main ratings...it's lifespan or "MAH" or "Milli Amp Hours, it's "Continuous Drain Rating" and it's "Pulse Drain Rating."

As a new vapor you never want to exceed the continuous drain rating, that is, how fast your battery can be drained. That is measured in amps. So if you have a 2000 mah battery with a continuous drain rating of 20 Amps that means the battery can be drained at 1 miliamp for 2000 hours or 1 amp for 2 hours or 2 amps for one hour all the way up to 20 amps for around 6 minutes.

These numbers are important because different coils with different resistances require different amounts of power and drain your battery at different amp currents so different coils will drain your battery at different speeds. This is constant whether your device is regulated or not.

The link above is full of basic information and links to other threads full of information all beginners getting into more advanced devices should know....if you have any more questions or one I didn't answer please post it up in this thread and someone if not myself will get to it. For your Subox device something like an LG HE4 or Samsung 25R would be a good battery choice given a decent battery life and a high enough amp limit to keep you safe.

Happy Vaping and cheers

 

[OBDave]

Good advice from @madmonkey, not a whole lot for me to add...but I'll move this over to the batteries section in case others want to jump in!

 

[f1r3b1rd]

Gonna third what @madmonkey said as great info and the LG he4 and Samsung 25r's are great batteries. Something an old wise vapor said to me when I bought my first mod stuck with me.
"You just spent good money on a good mod, don't cheap out on batteries and a charger to screw it up"-badittude.
Generally speaking the sony VTC4'S and VTC5's are also great options.

All 4 mentioned will serve you well, just do yourself a favor and also go through a reputable vendor; there are alot of clone batteries out there on amazon and eBay. Especially of the ones mentioned; because, they are popular.
The first vendors that pop in my head would be vapordna, eciggity, and rtdvapor. I'm sure others will make suggestions.

Oh and congrats!

 

[DiegoMA]

Thank you very much @madmonkey I did go ahead and bought a Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh Battery and I bought a signal bay charger. I have another question if you don't mind answering. I don't remember who told me but they suggested I don't drain the battery? Should I be buying anything else since is going to be my first RBA? I saw a devise that told you how much ohms your coils would be doing. How long does a battery life span last? I'll check up on the link you gave me yet again thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[outwest]

you'll definitely want an ohm meter to check your build with and an ohm calculator to make sure you're not over taxing your battery with your build. If you have an Android phone, I recommend both VaporCalc and Vaper's Toolbox (I like different parts of each). I don't know if they're available for iphone. With those, you can get help with how many turns on your coil to get your build to where you want, will have a calculator to see how much you're taxing your battery, and more.

 

[Zamazam]

If you don't discharge your batteries below 3.2v, normally you will get 800-1000 charge cycles out of them if they are good cells.

 

[madmonkey]

http://thelocust.net/ohm/ <----ohm's law calculator

You definitely need to study up that link I have you and the links inside of it...your battery will drain at different rates with different builds and how long of pulls you take off your atty. That little device you saw is called an "ohm's meter" or "ohm's checker" and it is a must have, not an option if you're going to be rebuilding. Many regulated devices can read the ohms of a coil as it's needed for a variable wattage chipset to function properly...however they only read the ohm's of the coil while the device is firing. An ohm's checker not only tells you the ohm's of a coil but if it is not properly secured in the RDA or if there is other possible shorts or problems with your RDA/coil.

People ask me how an ohm's checker can help detect a short in a RDA build on a regular basis when I say this and the answer is simple. If you screw in your RDA with a fresh build on it and turn on the device it should with in a second or two flash an ohm's reading and not change...or if it does change or waver it should be only by .02 or less with just about any Kanthal build. If you turn on your ohm's meter and the numbers are jumping all over the place you have a loose screw or a pinched lead or a damaged insulator somewhere in your RDA and if you try and fire it on your mod without correcting the problem one of two things is going to happen...on a properly functioning regulated mod it will not fire and your indicator screen should be flashing it's "shorted" error code or message,,,or on an unregulated mod you fire it and since the atty is shorting out the current is jumping the circuit and dumping a lot more power threw it than the battery can handle and it can cause the battery to go thermal and vent before you know what is happening.

Bottom line is ohms checking devices not only make sure your resistance level is safe for the battery or mod you are using, but that your build isn't shorting out and everything is ok to use. Please...keep them questions coming...we're here to help and most are more than happy to. Anything else please ask...and if this doesn't make sense what I've just said let me know and I'll try and explain it again because this stuff's important

 

[mkhilario]

you'll definitely want an ohm meter to check your build with and an ohm calculator to make sure you're not over taxing your battery with your build. If you have an Android phone, I recommend both VaporCalc and Vaper's Toolbox (I like different parts of each). I don't know if they're available for iphone. With those, you can get help with how many turns on your coil to get your build to where you want, will have a calculator to see how much you're taxing your battery, and more.

He just ordered a Subox kit, so he doesn't really need a meter. I just use http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?r=1.2&awg=26&id=2.4 to pre calculate on my laptop/desktop.

 

[madmonkey]

He just ordered a Subox kit, so he doesn't really need a meter. I just use http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?r=1.2&awg=26&id=2.4 to pre calculate on my laptop/desktop.

I am going to go out on limb here and say that I am not the only one that disagrees with that hap hazard line of thinking....the steam engine is a good reference point but was never meant to replace the safety of a good ohm's meter....regulated devices have built in safeties but there's not garantee they won't fail...a hot spot or hot leg and a coil could fire and then short all in the same stroke. Most devices only check the ohm's a coil in real time while firing and then show their last reading once you release the fire button. That is not a safe way to check a coil, it will just tell if or why the device is firing or not.

I have a whole post above yours of why an ohm's checker is not only a good idea but a necassary tool in any coil builders toolkit

 

[f1r3b1rd]

The way I see it if an extra 15-20$ will help help me not mess up mod or atty or both; than, its a wise investment. not to mention if someone ever gets into mechs they already have the meter. plus they are great to build on.
I know for me I've had the labels fade in some wire; so, steam engine wouldn't help much. since there's nickel, gplatt and Kanthal halfhazzardly thrown in a box,

 

[mkhilario]

I am going to go out on limb here and say that I am not the only one that disagrees with that hap hazard line of thinking....the steam engine is a good reference point but was never meant to replace the safety of a good ohm's meter....regulated devices have built in safeties but there's not garantee they won't fail...a hot spot or hot leg and a coil could fire and then short all in the same stroke. Most devices only check the ohm's a coil in real time while firing and then show their last reading once you release the fire button. That is not a safe way to check a coil, it will just tell if or why the device is firing or not.

I have a whole post above yours of why an ohm's checker is not only a good idea but a necassary tool in any coil builders toolkit

With his system, it will just flash if there's a short. His system can't (should'nt) handle anything crazy below 0.5 anyway. But yes, I do indeed love a dedicated ohm reader as I primarily vape on mechs and it provides a nice stable building base as well. I still find that a good magnifying glass is the best safety equipment investment!

 

[NemesisVaper]

Always best to ohm check a build before screwing it on a device.

Must say though, the protections on a modern regulated device are decent. The Kbox mini won't fire below 0.3 and on detection of a short should either display a message, flash the resistance,or in thebsame of my Mvp3, totally lock itself down until plugged into the charger. I'd assume one of the first two for the Kbox mini.

Safety first though I guess. I use my multimeter to check all my builds.

 

[madmonkey]

With his system, it will just flash if there's a short. His system can't (should'nt) handle anything crazy below 0.5 anyway. But yes, I do indeed love a dedicated ohm reader as I primarily vape on mechs and it provides a nice stable building base as well. I still find that a good magnifying glass is the best safety equipment investment!

I understand your point but I stand by my opinion and I am glad you feel the same way about a good ohm's meter the way I do...and I have a magnifier on a bending arm for wrapping coils as I am far sighted as well...it's earned the nick name "the Hubble"