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Finally using TC on my sig75. A few questions.

conanthewarrior

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Hi people. I am finally actuall using the TC on my sigelei 75, and it is rather good actually. I like my vapour quite cool, so have it set to around 120 degrees C (I do also enjoy warm vapour, but this blueberry tastes best slightly cooler).

Now, I worry about the amp draw, as I see on the screen it going as low as 1 volt! as it skips about doing its job, I worry.

Now, I think I have it right, and the current voltage of the battery is pulled from the battery, then regulated up, down, and so forth after entering the device, it is not pulling 1.something volts directly from the battery? Otherwise it would be pulling somewhere around 45 amps, and I know no battery that could do that.
So, it must be taking 4.1-3.2 (say 3.2 is low voltage cut off, zero battery) volts, then stepping them down to create the TC effect?

As I am slightly panicky at the back of my head I am going to kill all of my batteries using TC, which I realise is stupid as they would not release a device that was this dangerous or just killed batteries.

Could someone with more knowledge come along and tell me I have it basically correct, or how it works?

I may of asked similar, I can not actually remember, but I do remember asking about voltage and amp draw, but I think that was for my 150, not the TC mode on my 75.

Being a bit cautious, but really enjoying the flavour. Been using it about 45 mins so far, no heat or anything so I know its not doing anything dangerous, but part of my problems makes me worry excessively.

So, anyone who could put my mind at rest, it would be much appreciated.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
A cool vape? At ~120C? It's not really doing anything at that temp. You'll see the volts come into play once it's firing. I think you can put your mind at ease on this one. Plus you need a cooling draw to keep it even trying, or it just sits around 1v.

I grabbed the 75 to try this. Don't have any Ni rolled up so it's a .15 in a Nano tank, at about 32w.
And just for you... let's do Celsius. :)

At 120... a lot of squat. What's your build and power? This is Blu level of vapor. No that's being unfair to the Blu.
At 140... it's a cigalike and the volts are trying to get to 2.
At 160... almost 3 volts and almost enough vapor to lung hit.
At 170... ditto, still crap.
At 190... hey, we're getting somewhere, and 3 volts.
At 220... about 3.1 volts and it's getting interesting. And boring. And I don't know where the hell I am in Celsius. :confused: And I'm using the dark screen of an iPod for a mirror. :D

Seems fine.
The discussion in the Asolo thread had me wanting to try C just so I wouldn't have an inate feel for the temp setting, and really... this was just an excuse for me to try it. I'll keep at it.

I'm not sure how you're using 120C but you enjoy these experiments... post what you get.

This is odd, I definitely get vapour levels at that temperature? I can even provide a video if needed, I use a 70/30 VG/PG mix, and it does provide more vaour than a cigalike or a crappy blu lol. I am using my lemo V2 taking 5 second pulls, I don't know why but I always take 5 second pulls.

I have overheated it before and got the warning and locked out, but it was the RDA, as soon as I unscrewed it it went back on, so the device wasn't getting hot, it was the RDA (This was in POWER mode at higher watts).
 

NemesisVaper

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You don't need to worry about amp draw.

Voltage on screen is what it's feeding the coils, nothing to do with the cells.

The mod will draw whatever wattage you set from the battery to give it to the atomiser. Build resistance and any on screen voltage reading doesn't mater.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
You don't need to worry about amp draw.

Voltage on screen is what it's feeding the coils, nothing to do with the cells.

The mod will draw whatever wattage you set from the battery to give it to the atomiser. Build resistance and any on screen voltage reading doesn't mater.
Thank you NemesisVaper. As long as I know the on screen reading does not matter I feel a lot safer. I can't wait to use it fully, I decided today vaping is not best carried on due to a really bad chest infection that won't shift, but as soon as it does, I am going TC all the way. Luckily my unit does not have the hour long battery problem, I used it from 6PM till 12AM with a dripper TC, and the battery is just under or on half full.

That is with Efests newest offering, their 'in house' battery that replaces the old 2800MAH. These are still 2800MAH, well slightly above, but say 2900MAH to distinguish them, thats what Efest told me anyway. Speaking to someone knowledgeable, he expects around 20 amps, probably maximum 25, but they have been tested to 30 AMPS for 10 minutes on/off firing, and there was no excess heat, no signs of venting, or damage, so I am hoping they are the higher end of the scale.

I know I probably have more luck spotting santa clause and having a chat, but there is a part of me hoping for them to actually be what the claim to be, or at least 30 Amps at 2800MAH. If that was true, I think people would flock to that battery as the new 'standard'. I know this is virtually impossible though, but I can dream. But, if they really are, I will be stocking up quicktime.

My local shop actually tried to sell me the old 2800MAH genuinely believing they were what they said they were.

Either they are lying and know it is not, or I already know more about batteries than the shop does. If the second is true, I genuinely worry about shops, and do not know what alternative to use in the UK. I currently use my E pack, but for future purchases is there a UK shop that is actually knowledgeable and truthful?
 
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NemesisVaper

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Thank you NemesisVaper. As long as I know the on screen reading does not matter I feel a lot safer. I can't wait to use it fully, I decided today vaping is not best carried on due to a really bad chest infection that won't shift, but as soon as it does, I am going TC all the way. Luckily my unit does not have the hour long battery problem, I used it from 6PM till 12AM with a dripper TC, and the battery is just under or on half full.

That is with Efests newest offering, their 'in house' battery that replaces the old 2800MAH. These are still 2800MAH, well slightly above, but say 2900MAH to distinguish them, thats what Efest told me anyway. Speaking to someone knowledgeable, he expects around 20 amps, probably maximum 25, but they have been tested to 30 AMPS for 10 minutes on/off firing, and there was no excess heat, no signs of venting, or damage, so I am hoping they are the higher end of the scale.

I know I probably have more luck spotting santa clause and having a chat, but there is a part of me hoping for them to actually be what the claim to be, or at least 30 Amps at 2800MAH. If that was true, I think people would flock to that battery as the new 'standard'. I know this is virtually impossible though, but I can dream. But, if they really are, I will be stocking up quicktime.

My local shop actually tried to sell me the old 2800MAH genuinely believing they were what they said they were.

Either they are lying and know it is not, or I already know more about batteries than the shop does. If the second is true, I genuinely worry about shops, and do not know what alternative to use in the UK. I currently use my E pack, but for future purchases is there a UK shop that is actually knowledgeable and truthful?
Try Sr-vapes.co.uk they have genuine cells at decent prices. Never a need to buy rewrapsnwhen you can get OEM so cheap. Fasttech also sell genuine cells if you don't mind waiting.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Try Sr-vapes.co.uk they have genuine cells at decent prices. Never a need to buy rewrapsnwhen you can get OEM so cheap. Fasttech also sell genuine cells if you don't mind waiting.
Thanks man, I never heard of the first place. I would feel funny buying from fastech, a bit safer with a UK company.
 

NemesisVaper

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Thanks man, I never heard of the first place. I would feel funny buying from fastech, a bit safer with a UK company.
Nothing wrong with fasttech mate. Got two VTC4, two HG2 and two new green 25R arrive yesterday, all check out as genuine as anyone can see without discharge graphs.

The 25R cost me just over £3 each.
 

conanthewarrior

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Member For 5 Years
Thats not a bad shop, they only stock a few batteries though don't they. I would be scared of getting a fake cell from fast tech, I may give it a go though see if I do get a genuine cell? do many people order from there? Just would be worried on getting a very poor quality fake
 

NemesisVaper

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Just as likely as anywhere else bud except fasttech have a reputation for clones, so people tend to doubt them. They even check samples of their batteries so often. All the dodgy cheap "5000mAh" cells have their true tested capacity stated in the description, so they're not trying to hide anything.
 

conanthewarrior

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Member For 5 Years
Following a previous comment that 120 degrees C would produce hardly any vapour, I tried it on its minimum of 212 F or 100 C. It still produced plenty of vapour, just very cool.

So it seems to be doing what I thought TC would do, provide the amount of vapour at say 30 watts but at your chosen temperature. My unit seems to do that fine. I tried it at 250C, that was a bit warm for this blueberry, so went back to 120.

I know I wasn't going to vape today, but I thought what harm can 10 minutes do.
 

NemesisVaper

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Following a previous comment that 120 degrees C would produce hardly any vapour, I tried it on its minimum of 212 F or 100 C. It still produced plenty of vapour, just very cool.

So it seems to be doing what I thought TC would do, provide the amount of vapour at say 30 watts but at your chosen temperature. My unit seems to do that fine. I tried it at 250C, that was a bit warm for this blueberry, so went back to 120.

I know I wasn't going to vape today, but I thought what harm can 10 minutes do.
Temperature control is hard to explain and wrap ones head around.

The 30W is merely the wattage the coil will be fed at maximum to produce a coil temp that you set. The lower the temp you set, the less vapour you will get because it will lower the wattage down from 30w sooner.

Think of it like on my mech, I'm built to a theoretical 108W at the moment. If I tap the button for a split second, I get as much 108w as I would if I held the button down for 10 sec. However the coils would get to a lower temperature with the quick tap, thus producing less vapour. A temp mod is the same. Lower temps mean less vapour. Adding wattage means it'll get to that low, poor about producing temp quicker before it dials back, that's all.

Temp control vapour production depends on coil temp and regular kanthal vapes also depend on coil temp. Only difference is in ka that you vary temp with both wattage supplied and duration. In temp Co tool mode, excluding any ramp up, duration doesn't matter as much as the coil won't heat up any more than you select.
 

conanthewarrior

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Member For 5 Years
Temperature control is hard to explain and wrap ones head around.

The 30W is merely the wattage the coil will be fed at maximum to produce a coil temp that you set. The lower the temp you set, the less vapour you will get because it will lower the wattage down from 30w sooner.

Think of it like on my mech, I'm built to a theoretical 108W at the moment. If I tap the button for a split second, I get as much 108w as I would if I held the button down for 10 sec. However the coils would get to a lower temperature with the quick tap, thus producing less vapour. A temp mod is the same. Lower temps mean less vapour. Adding wattage means it'll get to that low, poor about producing temp quicker before it dials back, that's all.

Temp control vapour production depends on coil temp and regular kanthal vapes also depend on coil temp. Only difference is in ka that you vary temp with both wattage supplied and duration. In temp Co tool mode, excluding any ramp up, duration doesn't matter as much as the coil won't heat up any more than you select.
Yeah, I find it VERY confusing. I just about understand a normal regulated mod, but must say, I do enjoy the TC so will use this feature when I am better, as I use the 75tc the most instead of my 150, just due to size it is easier to carry about and such, even with kanthal I just use it in power mode. . I do still use the 150 for at home use and great battery life though, so I am glad I own it.
 

conanthewarrior

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Member For 5 Years
So, at 30 watts, if I choose say 140 Degrees celsius (40 above boiling point), is the device putting out 30 watts of cool vapour, or is it putting out a lot less than 30 due to the voltage changing around, and 30 watts is the maximum it will and 140 is the temp it trys to keep it at? But it is mostly putting out a lot less watts? or is it putting out 30?

Its quite confusing.
 

TheVapingDevil

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I'll try to help. It will put out 30 watts UNTIL it hits 140C. Then as long as you keep the button pressed the device will feed various watts to the coil to keep it at 140C. Once you let off the fire button the coil begins to cool. If you hit it again right away the device again applies 30 w to the coil until it hit 140C. This may be very quick if the coil hasn't cooled off from the last hit.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S5 Dumbphone
 

NemesisVaper

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So, at 30 watts, if I choose say 140 Degrees celsius (40 above boiling point), is the device putting out 30 watts of cool vapour, or is it putting out a lot less than 30 due to the voltage changing around, and 30 watts is the maximum it will and 140 is the temp it trys to keep it at? But it is mostly putting out a lot less?

Its quite confusing.
It's putting out as much vapour as that specific coil build is able to when it's heated to 140c. There's variables like how long you draw on it etc too.

Think of the wattage setting and vapour production like kettles. I got a rapid boil one at home that produces 3 Kilowatts to boil the water and at work that one is 2 Kilowatts. The one that's 3KW will produce steam quicker and get the water to boiling quicker. The amounts of steam they make will vary at any given time if you look at them side by side. However look at each one when the water is at 70c, 80c 90c and 100c, and if they were identical apart from the power they made, the same amount of steam would come out of each when the water is at the same temp in each one.

Don't know how that analogy came across but it made sense to me.

Someone else explained it good to me. Wattage is like acceleration of a car and the temp you set is it's max speed. A slow accelerating car and a fast accelerating car with the same 140mph will eventually end up traveling just as fast as each other but the one with better acceleration gets there quicker.

Wattage can effect Vape production it only on the sense that the ramp up time will be quicker and you will get to "maximum vape" quicker therefore more of your inhale time will be spent inhaling maximum Vape (which depends on temp set).
 
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conanthewarrior

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Member For 5 Years
Thank you thevaping devil and nemesis vaper, I actually understand how it works now. It puts out that wattage until it hits that temp, then it will drop voltage and put out less (or more if I got it set to hot).

Thank you for that. I got my head round that fairly easily thanks to your explanations. So, I am now thinking is a longer ramp up time a good thing? I suppose it depends on the situation and individual tastes. I used 30 W as an example as that is what I am currently set to. Single coil, 0.14 ohm (that changes slightly when it heats, so I have to press down and fire to reset the Ohms reader, it has changed up to 0.20, that is the furthest, but usually goes up to around 0.17 when heated.)

When my chest is better I will be using dual coil setups at higher wattages, for now I am vaping at a minimum with low power to not aggravate my chest anymore than it is.
 

AmandaD

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Thank you thevaping devil and nemesis vaper, I actually understand how it works now. It puts out that wattage until it hits that temp, then it will drop voltage and put out less (or more if I got it set to hot).

Thank you for that. I got my head round that fairly easily thanks to your explanations. So, I am now thinking is a longer ramp up time a good thing? I suppose it depends on the situation and individual tastes. I used 30 W as an example as that is what I am currently set to. Single coil, 0.14 ohm (that changes slightly when it heats, so I have to press down and fire to reset the Ohms reader, it has changed up to 0.20, that is the furthest, but usually goes up to around 0.17 when heated.)

When my chest is better I will be using dual coil setups at higher wattages, for now I am vaping at a minimum with low power to not aggravate my chest anymore than it is.

You want to set the resistance when the coil is cold (at least 15 mins after you've filled it). If you don't do that you'll get a burned taste, because the warmer resistance isn't the original resistance!
 

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