Walter Ego
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Reoville Underground!
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Walter Ego
Member For 4 Years
Rob listed new REO Grand doors on the site, engraved with circles. I really the brass one, but the tumbled kinda appeals to me as well. There goes the vape budget, again.
I am not sure how i feel about those circles yet. looks like the engraving bit got a little dull half way thru the batch.
I moved the o ring on my grand to below the threads like the square bottle!
Wow what a difference! Nice easy squonk on that round bottle also. The oring placement may have stopped the leaks before but itmust have let air in. They work so so much better. Give it a try. Just pop the o ring out of the grand bottle and put it around the neck below the threads against the last shoulder.
Just like the square one that Katyloo has pictured.
If the oring is not thick enough they dont seal as well. The one I had worked like a dream. No more squeezing the hell out of that round bottle!
I moved the o ring on my grand to below the threads like the square bottle!
Wow what a difference! Nice easy squonk on that round bottle also. The oring placement may have stopped the leaks before but itmust have let air in. They work so so much better. Give it a try. Just pop the o ring out of the grand bottle and put it around the neck below the threads against the last shoulder.
Just like the square one that Katyloo has pictured.
If the oring is not thick enough they dont seal as well. The one I had worked like a dream. No more squeezing the hell out of that round bottle!
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@AmandaD -let us know how it works for you please.
I have a modified VV grand. It has a longer feed tube. It still works great but takes a little more pressure. It also sucks stuff back into the bottle with a little more umph too it.
The 1st oring i used was too thin. Not sure where I grabbed it from? Then used the one that was inside the cap and it worked great.
Good luck.
They must be sucking air around the threads into the bottle somehow? Even though the oring is sealing it inside. I am not sure what the deal is. I just noticed it is working way better.
Ramble, ramble, ramble
I have a modified VV grand. It has a longer feed tube. It still works great but takes a little more pressure. It also sucks stuff back into the bottle with a little more umph too it
.The 1st oring i used was too thin. Not sure where I grabbed it from? Then used the one that was inside the cap and it worked great.
Good luck.
They must be sucking air around the threads into the bottle somehow? Even though the oring is sealing it inside. I am not sure what the deal is. I just noticed it is working way better.
Ramble, ramble, ramble
@AmandaD -let us know how it works for you please.
I have a modified VV grand. It has a longer feed tube. It still works great but takes a little more pressure. It also sucks stuff back into the bottle with a little more umph too it
The 1st oring i used was too thin. Not sure where I grabbed it from? Then used the one that was inside the cap and it worked great.
Good luck.
They must be sucking air around the threads into the bottle somehow? Even though the oring is sealing it inside. I am not sure what the deal is. I just noticed it is working way better.
Ramble, ramble, ramble
It leaks a little.... took the O ring from the cap on the grand!
@AmandaD - I am sorry my mistake! I ended up adding another oring around the neck. I remember now the oring I had taken out was too thin. I put it back in place and used a thicker one I had around the neck.
That is where i got confused and should have looked closer before I posted.
sorry again my mistake. it does help a lot for me and well worth it
That is where i got confused and should have looked closer before I posted.
sorry again my mistake. it does help a lot for me and well worth it
Walter Ego
Member For 4 Years
Rob hasn't started selling them yet, he just put the pictures up to prep the site. I did put in for an E-mail notification just in case.
Sorry @Walter Ego I could have sworn when I looked last night they where for sale....lol.
I really need bifocals but they suck! I had them once before and a decade has past since.
I really need bifocals but they suck!
I had them once before and a decade has past since.
Sickboy
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...moved my o-ring... so far so good. Once I get toward the bottom of the bottle is when the real test begins... I'll check back in the afternoon and give you all an update.
Edit:
OK, so afternoon turned into the next morning, it figures for me, but I can report that I note only a minor change in the amount of pressure needed to squonk. Toward the end of the bottle it still seems like it takes a hard press or a long press.
Mind you, I never did end up boiling my bottles or doing the microwave trick & that could help too.
Day 2 the trial continues...
Edit:
OK, so afternoon turned into the next morning, it figures for me, but I can report that I note only a minor change in the amount of pressure needed to squonk. Toward the end of the bottle it still seems like it takes a hard press or a long press.
Mind you, I never did end up boiling my bottles or doing the microwave trick & that could help too.
Day 2 the trial continues...
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Tornadoalleydeb
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It spins
Nice to see a VU Reoville here . I bought a copper vein regular Grand a few months ago and it quickly become my favorite vape. Used a RM2 for a while, but I really prefer dual coils so I got a couple of cheap Cyclones from FT to see if I liked them and they are great at 0.4 ohms with rayon.
Took a little TLC to get them to work for me. The negative post fell off the first one as I was drilling it for BF'ing, but that was easy to fix. The only thing that bothers me now is the cap is a bit too loose even with the O-rings in place and I haven't figured out a solution for it yet. It's not bad for a few bucks though. I do see a real Cyclone in my near future though
. I bought a copper vein regular Grand a few months ago and it quickly become my favorite vape. Used a RM2 for a while, but I really prefer dual coils so I got a couple of cheap Cyclones from FT to see if I liked them and they are great at 0.4 ohms with rayon.Took a little TLC to get them to work for me. The negative post fell off the first one as I was drilling it for BF'ing, but that was easy to fix. The only thing that bothers me now is the cap is a bit too loose even with the O-rings in place and I haven't figured out a solution for it yet. It's not bad for a few bucks though. I do see a real Cyclone in my near future though
Tornadoalleydeb
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I agree, nice to see some reonaughts here. I just sent my regular grand to Rob for a "hair cut" So now I will have a LP version. Why I have not gotten a LP sooner is beyond me. Opens up lots more options. I too have looked at different clones at FT I may have found one that will not need any modding other than drilling out some air holes but it needs to go on a LP and it is a tad taller than I would like. It has a what looks to be a spring loaded 510 for automatic adjusting. I will report back after I get my LP if it works as well as I hope it does.
Tornadoalleydeb
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@Ryedan It's this one here. Not sure how hard it will be to drill an air hole but I did already drill a hole easily enough it one of those top cap divots ( I think that is what you would call it) Of course that is not going to sit in front of the coil so there is no way to say if this is going to be sufficient enough. Too bad it was not just 1mm thinner. Of course with a dremel..................LOL
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1422102
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1422102
That looks like an aluminum version of the A7. That is my all day atty. Allthough now that my readyxwick is broken in on my RM2 that works almost as good now for me.
I do get a little bit more flavor with the A7 with a side hole, and way more hits per squonk.
If you drill a side hole in that one from FT, it works better with the coil on one side of the post rather than across the middle. The side that would have the air hole.
I use a dremel to drill my stainless steel ones with no problems. I put the air hole about 1mm above the threads where the silicone oring is. They are not much more for the A7's but a tad harder to drill being ss, but only take a min.
Make sure you clean that thing good inside. unscrew the insides and clean all the little pc good. then boil them to get the cutting fluid out.
BTW, I use a 135 dg split point cobalt drill bit. I like a 1/16 dia. in mine. I opened my RM2 up a bit because the flavor was a bit muted also.
but others tell me the smaller hole gives better flavor.....to each his own....
There are precautions to be made before using this in a reo.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-try-a7-rba-will-fit-29.html#post8104271
I will list how i do mine in another post later.
I do get a little bit more flavor with the A7 with a side hole, and way more hits per squonk.
If you drill a side hole in that one from FT, it works better with the coil on one side of the post rather than across the middle. The side that would have the air hole.
I use a dremel to drill my stainless steel ones with no problems. I put the air hole about 1mm above the threads where the silicone oring is. They are not much more for the A7's but a tad harder to drill being ss, but only take a min.
Make sure you clean that thing good inside. unscrew the insides and clean all the little pc good. then boil them to get the cutting fluid out.
BTW, I use a 135 dg split point cobalt drill bit. I like a 1/16 dia. in mine. I opened my RM2 up a bit because the flavor was a bit muted also.
but others tell me the smaller hole gives better flavor.....to each his own....
There are precautions to be made before using this in a reo.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-try-a7-rba-will-fit-29.html#post8104271
I will list how i do mine in another post later.
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Thanks for the link debinnv, that got my curiosity taken care of
. As Cessnapix said, looks pretty much like a A7. I had a quick look at the A7 before I decided to try the Cyclone, but I had to stay with the smaller atty and also go with what I thought would be better for dual coils. I don't think the A7 has the sprung 510 pin and I hope that doesn't get in your way. For sure let us know how it goes!
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Good stuff Cessnapix and all your info should really help deninnv mod her atty. I have a question for you. I'm not sure how the A7 breaths if you don't drill a side hole in the cap. Is there a hole in the side of the negative part of the 510 connection? How does it get air flow once you seal that area for squonking?
Walter Ego
Member For 4 Years
I have modded these attys from FastTech
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1353408 YK1
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1677400 V7
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1730600 Cats
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1604800 A6 or RM3
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1772908 Crown
Also a EH Pro Atomic and an Infinite Stillare not from FT
I have one of these on order
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1791601 Zenith V2
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1353408 YK1
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1677400 V7
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1730600 Cats
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1604800 A6 or RM3
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1772908 Crown
Also a EH Pro Atomic and an Infinite Stillare not from FT
I have one of these on order
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1791601 Zenith V2
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Now I know who to bug if I want to try one of these, LOL. The YK1 is what I'm using and calling a Cyclone (clone).
Tornadoalleydeb
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Goodness thank you for all the info. I have a A7 also! I so appreciate the info on the bits you are using. I have a ultrasonci cleaner and I toss everything in there for about 10 min and then dry everything really well. I had a few of those little cheapie screws rust on me when I did not dry them fast enough. Only had it happen to one. I normally replace the screws now with ones I get over at kidney puncher.
That looks like an aluminum version of the A7. That is my all day atty. Allthough now that my readyxwick is broken in on my RM2 that works almost as good now for me.
I do get a little bit more flavor with the A7 with a side hole, and way more hits per squonk.
If you drill a side hole in that one from FT, it works better with the coil on one side of the post rather than across the middle. The side that would have the air hole.
I use a dremel to drill my stainless steel ones with no problems. I put the air hole about 1mm above the threads where the silicone oring is. They are not much more for the A7's but a tad harder to drill being ss, but only take a min.
Make sure you clean that thing good inside. unscrew the insides and clean all the little pc good. then boil them to get the cutting fluid out.
BTW, I use a 135 dg split point cobalt drill bit. I like a 1/16 dia. in mine. I opened my RM2 up a bit because the flavor was a bit muted also.
but others tell me the smaller hole gives better flavor.....to each his own....
There are precautions to be made before using this in a reo.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-try-a7-rba-will-fit-29.html#post8104271
I will list how i do mine in another post later.
Tornadoalleydeb
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Walter Ego
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Feel free to bug away, I'm vaping the Crown now. I really like this atty. Stainless center pin and lots of airflow options, plus killer looks.
Walter Ego
Member For 4 Years
The Infinite Stillare was a snap to drill, I didn't even disassemble it. I just ran the bit down the brass center post. I like the AFC on the Stillare.
Walter Ego
Member For 4 Years
I forgot I also drilled a Vicious Ant Cyclone, it was a bitch, ended up ruining the insulator and had to buy a new one, but it works good and lots cheaper.
@Walter Ego How does that Cats vape? I like the way it pulls the air from higher up! Not sure if that cools down the atty or why they did it.
Are you using a drill press on your stainless pins or cutting the insulator? Like you did with the vicous ant cyclone I ruined my Atomic center pin trying to drill it out. I didn't know they just pressed in and out either, but that is a deep hole, at that dia., in S.S.....lol BTW have you noticed they use food grade silicone brown orings up top on some attys but not down below where they believe the juice will not be in contact. Personlally I would like to switch to a food grade oring all the way around.
I have extra SS tubing for your atomic but the od needs to be turned down. If you give me the OD and length i can have an extra one made for your ehpro version if you want. unless you are just cutting the insulator? i have been contimplating that on my atomic as well.
I bought a couple spare center pins and then realised it would be easier to turn down the tubing rather than drill that deep. I wish I had access to the machinery still because I would like to make a little slot for the wick to sit in on the deck. There are a couple you have probably seen like that but i dont want to go as deep.
@debinnv I never thought of using my uc to clean the thing, but it was pretty nasty with cutting fluid and there are lots of places for it to get lodge inside of that thing.
The center pin is adjustable but for the REO it screws all the way in on the A7. I put a washer I make from a wrap if kanthal and tighten the pin against the shoulder. I also do the same thing on the negative post to get that to lock in the position I want the lead hole for the coil to be in. You can use the carto condom rubber to make an insulator around the center pin also. I bought some tygon tubing while I was placing an order at mcmaster carr. i think it was 3/16X1/8 id. works great and solid. On the side hole, I grind a statrting dimple for the drill point first. I have a broken 1/16 drill bit that runs true in the collet of the dremel so it is nice and short for drilling side holes. The trick with the stainless is to use lubrication and push through very fast so not to work harden the material. Just the opposite with aluminum. Kerosene makes an excellent lub for alum. But a little rubbing alcohol should work fine also. It stops the alum from welding onto the drill bits.
@Ryedan the A7 has a couple of holes around the 510 threads like a atomizer does and gets the air from there. It will work right out of the box as is with out alterations but could short out if not carefull. myself I find the flavor a bit muted that way also. but we are all different. Some peeps cut slots in the rubber so it does not cover the air hole if using with out a side hole. Also no oring on the bottom face!
Are you using a drill press on your stainless pins or cutting the insulator? Like you did with the vicous ant cyclone I ruined my Atomic center pin trying to drill it out. I didn't know they just pressed in and out either, but that is a deep hole, at that dia., in S.S.....lol BTW have you noticed they use food grade silicone brown orings up top on some attys but not down below where they believe the juice will not be in contact. Personlally I would like to switch to a food grade oring all the way around.
I have extra SS tubing for your atomic but the od needs to be turned down. If you give me the OD and length i can have an extra one made for your ehpro version if you want. unless you are just cutting the insulator? i have been contimplating that on my atomic as well.
I bought a couple spare center pins and then realised it would be easier to turn down the tubing rather than drill that deep. I wish I had access to the machinery still because I would like to make a little slot for the wick to sit in on the deck. There are a couple you have probably seen like that but i dont want to go as deep.
@debinnv I never thought of using my uc to clean the thing, but it was pretty nasty with cutting fluid and there are lots of places for it to get lodge inside of that thing.
The center pin is adjustable but for the REO it screws all the way in on the A7. I put a washer I make from a wrap if kanthal and tighten the pin against the shoulder. I also do the same thing on the negative post to get that to lock in the position I want the lead hole for the coil to be in. You can use the carto condom rubber to make an insulator around the center pin also. I bought some tygon tubing while I was placing an order at mcmaster carr. i think it was 3/16X1/8 id. works great and solid. On the side hole, I grind a statrting dimple for the drill point first. I have a broken 1/16 drill bit that runs true in the collet of the dremel so it is nice and short for drilling side holes. The trick with the stainless is to use lubrication and push through very fast so not to work harden the material. Just the opposite with aluminum. Kerosene makes an excellent lub for alum. But a little rubbing alcohol should work fine also. It stops the alum from welding onto the drill bits.
@Ryedan the A7 has a couple of holes around the 510 threads like a atomizer does and gets the air from there. It will work right out of the box as is with out alterations but could short out if not carefull. myself I find the flavor a bit muted that way also. but we are all different. Some peeps cut slots in the rubber so it does not cover the air hole if using with out a side hole. Also no oring on the bottom face!
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Walter Ego
Member For 4 Years
Walter Ego How does that Cats vape? I like the way it pulls the air from higher up! Not sure if that cools down the atty or why they did it.
Are you using a drill press on your stainless pins or cutting the insulator? Like you did with the vicous ant cyclone I ruined my Atomic center pin trying to drill it out. I didn't know they just pressed in and out either, but that is a deep hole, at that dia., in S.S.....lol BTW have you noticed they use food grade silicone brown orings up top on some attys but not down below where they believe the juice will not be in contact. Personlally I would like to switch to a food grade oring all the way around.
I have extra SS tubing for your atomic but the od needs to be turned down. If you give me the OD and length i can have an extra one made for your ehpro version if you want. unless you are just cutting the insulator? i have been contimplating that on my atomic as well.
I bought a couple spare center pins and then realised it would be easier to turn down the tubing rather than drill that deep. I wish I had access to the machinery still because I would like to make a little slot for the wick to sit in on the deck. There are a couple you have probably seen like that but i dont want to go as deep.
The Cats I have gotten to feed and drain well but haven't got a build on it that I like yet, quad coils are kinda new to me. I drilled the insulator as that was the only way I could see to bottom feed it. The rest I drilled the center pin with a drill press and 1/16" cobalt bit, just have to kinda peck away and not let it get to hot. The Cyclone I tried to drill in place because I couldn't get it apart and melted the insulator. The Atomic I used the press to push out the pin then drilled it, the stainless in the Atomic pin is some hard ass shit. I also have a Signet Star that I can not figure out how to bottom feed if anyone has an idea.
Are you using a drill press on your stainless pins or cutting the insulator? Like you did with the vicous ant cyclone I ruined my Atomic center pin trying to drill it out. I didn't know they just pressed in and out either, but that is a deep hole, at that dia., in S.S.....lol BTW have you noticed they use food grade silicone brown orings up top on some attys but not down below where they believe the juice will not be in contact. Personlally I would like to switch to a food grade oring all the way around.
I have extra SS tubing for your atomic but the od needs to be turned down. If you give me the OD and length i can have an extra one made for your ehpro version if you want. unless you are just cutting the insulator? i have been contimplating that on my atomic as well.
I bought a couple spare center pins and then realised it would be easier to turn down the tubing rather than drill that deep. I wish I had access to the machinery still because I would like to make a little slot for the wick to sit in on the deck. There are a couple you have probably seen like that but i dont want to go as deep.
The Cats I have gotten to feed and drain well but haven't got a build on it that I like yet, quad coils are kinda new to me. I drilled the insulator as that was the only way I could see to bottom feed it. The rest I drilled the center pin with a drill press and 1/16" cobalt bit, just have to kinda peck away and not let it get to hot. The Cyclone I tried to drill in place because I couldn't get it apart and melted the insulator. The Atomic I used the press to push out the pin then drilled it, the stainless in the Atomic pin is some hard ass shit. I also have a Signet Star that I can not figure out how to bottom feed if anyone has an idea.
I am tempted to buy that stillare now. madvapes has a 10% sale and the ehpro stillare is like $18+. but betwen the Atomic, RM2, and A7 I don't need it.
I have a couple That look just like the V4 at FT that where made in Sweden and they vape like crap. I added a secound air hole to one of them too. but never mad them into BF's. The deck is about the same as the V7, or an ERA clone.
lol...Atomic is tough ass pin to drill for sure. Thats a very deep hole for 1/16 dia.
the Signet star.....I am thinking that everyother post is positive. There must be an insulator under that star disc? Perhaps if you can unscrew the post and maybe the center pin unscrews as well? Then maybe you only need to drill a hole in the center pin and the star disc?
depending on how it is made maybe just put a few slots in the insulator under that star disc.......if that is how it is made?........just assuming!
I would only use the cats as a single coil so Myself I would not have to worry about the multi builds..
I have a couple That look just like the V4 at FT that where made in Sweden and they vape like crap. I added a secound air hole to one of them too. but never mad them into BF's. The deck is about the same as the V7, or an ERA clone.
lol...Atomic is tough ass pin to drill for sure. Thats a very deep hole for 1/16 dia.
the Signet star.....I am thinking that everyother post is positive. There must be an insulator under that star disc? Perhaps if you can unscrew the post and maybe the center pin unscrews as well? Then maybe you only need to drill a hole in the center pin and the star disc?
depending on how it is made maybe just put a few slots in the insulator under that star disc.......if that is how it is made?........just assuming!
I would only use the cats as a single coil so Myself I would not have to worry about the multi builds..
Tornadoalleydeb
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I did not like my cats at first until I saw a vid where Matt from suck my mod does the coils sort of on a angle. Now it's amazing.
Hi!
Red sparkle original Mini, reverse tux Grand, spalted maple 18490 Woodvil, lacewood 18650 Woodvil.
Red sparkle original Mini, reverse tux Grand, spalted maple 18490 Woodvil, lacewood 18650 Woodvil.
Tornadoalleydeb
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Hiya Ocelot! nice to see you
Hello!
I have a Reo mini with RM2. I just can't seem to like it. I forget to squonk, then if I switch hands, the airhole is located in the wrong place, sometimes when squonking the door slides up just a bit (from the way I hold it, I'm sure) - I just can't seem to get the hang of it. Maybe I'll build another coil & take it off the shelf, give it one more shot before I get rid of it.... I'm the only person that I know, that doesn't just love their Reo.
I just became a Reo owner this last Friday and i must say that I have no idea why it took me so long.(other than not having the funds)
This little beast is just amazing and easy to work with. I currently have area mini 2.1 but I will be looking to get a reo grand some time in the future!
This little beast is just amazing and easy to work with. I currently have area mini 2.1 but I will be looking to get a reo grand some time in the future!
@Mommay ~ Maybe the RM2 is not for you! Also what are you using for wick material?
I did not care for my RM2 at 1st but now its working better. I was getting a lot of buned hits. Readyxwick is expensive but I am on the same 1/2"+ pc going on 2 months now and plenty of life left. It may be your build?
Once the wick is broken in I get about 3 hits per squonk. At 1st I was getting 1. I put it away and used the A7 for a while then went tback to it. Now I use both.
I put the air hole and coil in the back, 180 deg opposite the door. This way you can hold it a couple different ways with out blocking the air hole with your finger. also the square bottles, once you get your build right makes the squonk so much easier.
If ayone is wanting a VV/VW REO the crown2.0 is an excellent option. Way better than the kick IMO. Audible feedback with beebs that you can hear through the door. You have to use a smaller battery but it is half the thickness of a kick. Can be purchased at RTDVAPES.
you can lock the mode and wattge you want. Use in VV or VW and forget. 6 commands for user setup and readout of volts/watts using the firing button. Tap and hold the fire pin commands will give you an audable output of wattage. 7 beebs is 7 watts. atty ohms for 2.5 ohms would beep 2 long and 5 short beeps. This thing is awsome. on the mini 2.1 use with and 18350. Output is a straight dc output not pulse.
Fits a Grand using 18500 or a modified VV grand with an 18650.
I did not care for my RM2 at 1st but now its working better. I was getting a lot of buned hits. Readyxwick is expensive but I am on the same 1/2"+ pc going on 2 months now and plenty of life left. It may be your build?
Once the wick is broken in I get about 3 hits per squonk. At 1st I was getting 1. I put it away and used the A7 for a while then went tback to it. Now I use both.
I put the air hole and coil in the back, 180 deg opposite the door. This way you can hold it a couple different ways with out blocking the air hole with your finger. also the square bottles, once you get your build right makes the squonk so much easier.
If ayone is wanting a VV/VW REO the crown2.0 is an excellent option. Way better than the kick IMO. Audible feedback with beebs that you can hear through the door. You have to use a smaller battery but it is half the thickness of a kick. Can be purchased at RTDVAPES.
you can lock the mode and wattge you want. Use in VV or VW and forget. 6 commands for user setup and readout of volts/watts using the firing button. Tap and hold the fire pin commands will give you an audable output of wattage. 7 beebs is 7 watts. atty ohms for 2.5 ohms would beep 2 long and 5 short beeps. This thing is awsome. on the mini 2.1 use with and 18350. Output is a straight dc output not pulse.
Fits a Grand using 18500 or a modified VV grand with an 18650.
@Cessnapix Thanks for your help. I just rebuilt with 1.2 ohm coil w/30 ga Kanthal, 3mm RxW. I've used cotton, EkoWool & RxW in past. As I read your post, I moved the coil/airhole around to the back. Where can I get the square bottles? I think the small, round bottles in the mini are one of the reasons that I didn't care for it.They sit a little back from the opening & I have to look at it to reach in a bit and squonk. Since I pulled it out again, I think the way that I hold it (in my left hand) has a lot to do with the door sliding up a bit - my pinkie circles underneath & I fire with my thumb causing a little upward pressure on the bottom of the door.
@Mommay ~ There is a link to the bottles a few post back, and A picture from katyloo I think is the name......Sorry, she has a picture to where the oring should be placed. Read those few post in that area back a page or two?
I fire with my index finger in my right hand. However i think the brass doors are a little more solid and doesn't seem to move as much. But i would hate for you to spend the money and still have it happen. I vape with my palm facing the door in the right hand and the short side opposite the button tilted toward my mouth. I squonk with my right thumb.
If you are left handed try the opposite, in your left hand but the back against you palm and index finger on the fire button. you will be away from the door but you may be blocking the air hole again? if you are rotate the hole around to the front and try it. if that makes sense.
I fire with my index finger in my right hand. However i think the brass doors are a little more solid and doesn't seem to move as much. But i would hate for you to spend the money and still have it happen. I vape with my palm facing the door in the right hand and the short side opposite the button tilted toward my mouth. I squonk with my right thumb.
If you are left handed try the opposite, in your left hand but the back against you palm and index finger on the fire button. you will be away from the door but you may be blocking the air hole again? if you are rotate the hole around to the front and try it. if that makes sense.
Sickboy
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Nice to see The Ocelot join in on the chat!
@Mommay : I hold my grand in my left hand, (I'm right handed but smoked left handed for 20 yrs so vaping went to lefty as well I guess) I fire with my thumb and squonk with my ring finger, my airhole faces off to the side opposite the fire button. I typically build a 0.5ohm coil and have bored out the air hole on my rm2 with a 3/32 drill bit. With the lower ohm ugly coil & the bigger air hole I'm really happy with the flavor and the thick cloud doesn't hurt any either.
@Mommay : I hold my grand in my left hand, (I'm right handed but smoked left handed for 20 yrs so vaping went to lefty as well I guess) I fire with my thumb and squonk with my ring finger, my airhole faces off to the side opposite the fire button. I typically build a 0.5ohm coil and have bored out the air hole on my rm2 with a 3/32 drill bit. With the lower ohm ugly coil & the bigger air hole I'm really happy with the flavor and the thick cloud doesn't hurt any either.
Hey did you all see the sale that RTD Vapor was having on clones. I picked up the EHpro Atomic shipped for $21
Coupon Code (RBA20) for 20% off. Not a bad selection either! I don't know how long it last for.
That's better than altering the original atomic for bottom feeding.
I have been wondering if I should open up my hole even more on my RM2? 3/32 is a big hole and that is what was in the Atomic. i don't use that low of a resisitance coil though but it shouldnt matter, or would it?
You guys remember how odd it was to smoke with a different hand than you normally did, at least it was for me. 35 years of smoking with the right hand and it use to feel really strange switching hands.
Coupon Code (RBA20) for 20% off. Not a bad selection either! I don't know how long it last for.
That's better than altering the original atomic for bottom feeding.
I have been wondering if I should open up my hole even more on my RM2? 3/32 is a big hole and that is what was in the Atomic. i don't use that low of a resisitance coil though but it shouldnt matter, or would it?
You guys remember how odd it was to smoke with a different hand than you normally did, at least it was for me. 35 years of smoking with the right hand and it use to feel really strange switching hands.
@Cessnapix & @Sickboy, Thank you both very much,. I'm right handed, too, but always smoked with my left. I think I hold my Reo just like you, Sickboy. Not sure I can squonk with my ringfinger (arthritis), but I'm going to give it a shot and find something that works. I built an ugly coil last night & moved around the airhole - it helped some. I also cut a 'V' in the bottom of my feeder tube, to make sure that it feeds free & doesn't suck itself to the side or bottom of the bottle. I think I'll try drilling out the rm2, a bit at a time & drop the ohm of my coil again some. I really appreciate all the help. I'll most likely be back with more questions. ;-)
What's the diameter of the Atomic? I've got a list of RDAs with diameters & (of course) it's one of the few that's not on my list.
I'm right handed & always smoked left handed. Probably because I smoked like a train in the car & always kept my window cracked, was bad & thumped my ashes out the window... I still vape left handed, almost always.
Walter Ego
Member For 4 Years
My Atomic measures 19mm, the nice thing about that size is the door will still slide up.
yea mine measure .750" or 19mm so I gues they are both the same.
yeap; i always had to cross my right hand over to flick the ash out the window of my car. for some reason it felt so awkward to smoke left handed.....to funny.
EDIT; found info already posted
You know the modified VV grand is not a very ergonomic mod at all. I like having the crown2.0 in it with a 18650. but the mini with a 18350 and crown is nice also. The regular grand is probably just a bit shorter and easier to hold with my small hands.
oh, my atomic has a smaller hole than 3/32- closer to 5/64 or .078"
yeap; i always had to cross my right hand over to flick the ash out the window of my car. for some reason it felt so awkward to smoke left handed.....to funny.
EDIT; found info already posted
You know the modified VV grand is not a very ergonomic mod at all. I like having the crown2.0 in it with a 18650. but the mini with a 18350 and crown is nice also. The regular grand is probably just a bit shorter and easier to hold with my small hands.
oh, my atomic has a smaller hole than 3/32- closer to 5/64 or .078"
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Well, I drilled the airhole a couple of tiny times & rebuild my coil to .9 with twisted 30 ga. It does seem to be vaping better and I found I can easily squonk with my thumb. The Reo just rolls into my fingertips, allowing me to use my thumb. I used it almost all afternoon... still feels a bit odd, but at least it got used - probably more today than it has (all total) since I got it.
I think if you try the bigger bottle it may help. i would be glad to send you a couple and drill out the caps for you if you like. then you can deside if you want to buy some. The price went up on them they where 99cents but are like $5 now and the top row of four are all you can use.
It may be just a while to get use to it thats all. I know I have hand trouble as well. and luckily I use juice that is nice and clean and I dont have to change wicks or coils in about 2 months now.
But I have impinged nerves in my elbow that effect my finger motion,,,to much of a whimp to have surgery...lol. dont need the scar tissue messing things up worse either.
anyways I have to squeeze with my thumb and finger to squonk, even though it is a change in my grip from vaping.
good luck
It may be just a while to get use to it thats all. I know I have hand trouble as well. and luckily I use juice that is nice and clean and I dont have to change wicks or coils in about 2 months now.
But I have impinged nerves in my elbow that effect my finger motion,,,to much of a whimp to have surgery...lol. dont need the scar tissue messing things up worse either.
anyways I have to squeeze with my thumb and finger to squonk, even though it is a change in my grip from vaping.
good luck
@Cessnapix - Thank you, I would love to try one of the bottles. My thumb needs to develop some new muscles for these harder, tiny bottles. LOL. I use ReadyXWick so I don't have to change wicks frequently & once I get a coil I like, I try to leave it. I also have several attys coiled & wicked, ready to go, 'cause I never know when my fingers will work or when they'll go on strike (I have MS). Fortunately, it's more of an inconvenience than anything else. I know what you mean about surgery. I had a surgery to repair a cut ligament & nerves on a finger years ago - the worst part (looking back) was the blamed pin sticking out the end of my finger for over a month! I've had several other, more major surgeries, but that stupid pin is remembered more than anything else!
ouch, ow, ow.......too much information...................pin sticking out ...no more
@debinnv; I was re reading some of these post and you mentioned buying screws at kidney puncher.
or someone may have a bag od 100 also
Next time if you ask around for the screw size. You can order a lot size of 50 or 100 pcs for a couple bucks more as 6pc at Kidney puncher from; http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=t8x2gg
or stainless set screws; http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=t8x55f
@debinnv; I was re reading some of these post and you mentioned buying screws at kidney puncher.
or someone may have a bag od 100 also
Next time if you ask around for the screw size. You can order a lot size of 50 or 100 pcs for a couple bucks more as 6pc at Kidney puncher from; http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=t8x2gg
or stainless set screws; http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=t8x55f
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