Why is my Sigelei 75w TC burning?

[Myk]

Using 26ga Ni200, in temp mode.(edit)Cotton burn test(/edit)
Tried 2 different coils in a SubTank. Both set at 212°-225° watts all the way +/- it jumps then it rides at 1v until it's burnt. At 400° with liquid on the wick it just flames.

With the last build it locked in at .09Ω. Stuck it on my IVP4, it locked in at .097Ω. At 400° slight scorching and dry coil".
It reads the Ti coil off the IPV4 right.

I wouldn't get too hung up on the dry burn except it gave me a burnt hit vaping it.

Can't be the bad connection with 2 mods agreeing. The first Ni coil was what worked in SubTank before, the second was a more spaced version.

 

[Myk]

what are you using for wick ??

Cotton, and that's what I was doing the burn test with.

But the burnt hit would've been a burnt hit on silica, it's that far off. I'm sure it wasn't a completely dry wick.

 

[Neunerball]

Got pictures? It would help to see what the coil and wick look like.

 

[Myk]

You can't see much but it's not touching or shorting anywhere. Right now I'm controlling it with wattage in TC but it's acting the same as it does if I put it into power mode, the longer I hit the hotter it gets. Other than locking in the resistance it's like there is no TC mode. Certainly not like I saw on a video where it went to 0v on a dry wick.

 

[Neunerball]

In TC mode, you want to lock in the resistance, when the coil is absolutely cold. Otherwise, the TC might not work as expected. I'm using an RDA single coil on my Sigelei 75W, without any problems. Did you try to see if there's a hot spot in this coil? It looks like there's less space between the wraps at the side, shown at the bottom of the picture. This would cause the coil heating up more on that side, and throwing off the TC as well. Look at the coil how it glows without the wick.

 

[Myk]

Look at the coil how it glows without the wick.

NEVER glow nickel.
That said, this one did glow when it burst the wick into flames , it was in the center out for the split second I had it fired.

I think you're seeing an optical illusion being off at that angle. I was trying to show the leg wasn't hitting the coil.

I'm sure it is locking in at room temperature, the IVP locked it in at the same and it locked the IVP's atty in at the same.
I just got a check atty warning drying the wick. I'm going to try a different deck

 

[Myk]

I think the algorithms are way off for nickel.

Just an RDA base and a length of Ni200 wire that Steam Engine says is reading right. 400° 25w it pulses red. I guarantee that brightness of red is more than 400°.

A length of Ti, 400° 75w, it hits red and backs off never to hit it again. 475° 75w, it hits bright red and backs off to a very dull red.

Either my box is a bug, or they've changed something.

I was pissed it didn't have Ti mode. If it's screwed up to work with Ti I could be happy.

 

[Myk]

yea ,something is wrong with your box .no way should it even get close to glowing red in TC mode

What's weird is it's almost right for Ti @20w. Except that for long lung hits it continues to get more and more powerful as it goes. And if you turn it up to 50w it gets insane as it goes quickly.

 

[Myk]

I hate to suggest this, as it's so "hell desk", but... as we lack a reset button on these, have you had the battery out and then back in since the problem started? Does holding the fire button when inserting the battery perform a reset? That's not a rhetorical question.

I have removed the battery. Didn't know about holding the fire button.
I did search the plastic innards for a reset button, I had the same idea. I can't imagine this being a hard wired problem, a reset should fix it.

 

[Myk]

It does bring up the firmware. I'm not sure where I left the temperature I thought I was last vaping it with Ti @400°, now it was set to max temperature. But if it did a reset it didn't fix it.

 

[AmandaD]

Unless you've locked in the resistance when cold, the coil will glow red in TC mode.

 

[Myk]

It's locked in.

Sorry to hear, it was just a thought.

It was a good one. Something I hadn't thought of.

 

[Myk]

I really hate that I'm not finding any other reports of this around the internet. Makes me think I'm one of "those" people.
But without a Ti/Ni option to be set wrong I can't think of what it could possibly be. The settings options are pretty basic, power or TC.

 

[OneBadWolf]

Just out of curiosity, 1, is there any way you might have confused your wire? 2. have you cross checked the resistance on a meter? 3.have you tried a different atty on your mod, and your atty on a different TC mod? 4 Does the mod still work on either nickle OR Ti? 5 is the firmware upgradable (I'm not familiar with your mod) and if so, do you have the most current version?Not trying to be an ahole, sometimes I get stumped, and the problem is staring me in the face.

In any case those should nail down whether its the mod or not

 

[AmandaD]

It's locked in.
View attachment 29004



It was a good one. Something I hadn't thought of.

Not wanting to beat a dead horse - but you did lock it in by pressing the fire button and the down button at the same time (I'm sure you did, but just wanted to be absolutely sure, since it's such a common problem!)

If so, sounds like it's time for a warranty exchange. I had an Istick 40 tc that changed resistance even after locking and ended up being useless in tc mode.

 

[Myk]

Just out of curiosity, 1, is there any way you might have confused your wire? 2. have you cross checked the resistance on a meter? 3.have you tried a different atty on your mod, and your atty on a different TC mod? 4 Does the mod still work on either nickle OR Ti? 5 is the firmware upgradable (I'm not familiar with your mod) and if so, do you have the most current version?Not trying to be an ahole, sometimes I get stumped, and the problem is staring me in the face.

In any case those should nail down whether its the mod or not

1 It's spools
2 Pretty much impossible when dealing with wire that has a resistance that's near what the internal resistance of the multi-meter is. It calculates right with Steam Engine and is confirmed on other TC mods.
3 Yes, stated above. Also multiple attys, decks and working builds from other mods.
4 It's a Ni only mod. By work do you mean fire? Yes it starts fires very well. What it doesn't do is control the temperature of the wire to avoid starting fires It works better with Ti than with Ni, but it still builds heat above the setting the longer it's hit.
5 I hope so but because I want a Ti mode. I don't think this is a firmware problem or there would be more reports of it. I think it's a bad chip, extra/cold solder, bad connection or mailman field goal practice (the box for the VTC in the same bad was smashed but no damage to the Sig box).

The way it's acting I'd think it was another fake TC like the Smok M80, except I've seen video of it not burning cotton and dropping to 0v with dry cotton.

Not wanting to beat a dead horse - but you did lock it in by pressing the fire button and the down button at the same time (I'm sure you did, but just wanted to be absolutely sure, since it's such a common problem!)

If so, sounds like it's time for a warranty exchange. I had an Istick 40 tc that changed resistance even after locking and ended up being useless in tc mode.

Yep, the above picture was after using it with a TI, it was locked at .36Ω I had to relock it with the Ni to get it to .06Ω. I would think I was hitting fire a split second before down but the IPV4 agrees with all the coil lock ins I've tried on it.
It's also not acting consistent. For the picture was lit solid. It was just very slight red solid, dropping to .71v and pretty much staying. Now it's back to glowing and pulsating. The not pulsing has started since I've been "resetting" to see the firmware revision.
I guess that could be a 510 connection issue, reads right but changes when it fires. I'd think that would act the opposite though. Spring feels heavy enough. Wish they made it easier to see the wire connections.

 

[AmandaD]

Did you try a new build? With such a huge variance in resistance readings something's provably wrong with the build


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[Myk]

With such a huge variance in resistance readings

You mean .36Ω and .06Ω? .36Ω are my Ti builds in use and working fine on other mods. .06Ω is Ni wire (was builds but I'm not bothering with rolling coils on it any more).

Here's my thought process sleeping on it:
What would make a correctly locked in coil act like a coil that was too hot when locked in and then never fully drop voltage?
Ohms drop upon firing and never get as high as the chip expects. That would react the same as locking in high and never drop to 0v.

What would make a correctly locked in coil act like a coil that was too hot when locked in and then fluctuate never fully dropping voltage.
Ohms drop upon firing and then fluctuate at peak.

I think it has an cold solder joint or nearly broken wire that's causing resistance in the continuous polling circuit once voltage starts running through.

Unpowered resistance .06Ω fine (agrees with other mods), as soon as power goes through the bad circuit that .06Ω isn't reacting fast enough, more power sent. It never drops to 0v because it's always got the internal bottle neck telling it send a little more.

I'll have to wrap a kanthal build to rule out the 510 connections and power circuit but I bet above is what it is.

 

[Myk]

I just got it to lock in .01Ω lower with an ice cube and it still jumped to bright red before backing down. It has to be an internal flaw.
Power mode worked but it's hard to say if that means much with the tiny differences we're talking for TC.

 

[OneBadWolf]

As far as I can see, you have exercised all due dilligence in your troubleshooting. It's overwhelmingly likely there is an issue with the mod. I guess the question is, do you crack it open, or send it away....

 

[Myk]

As far as I can see, you have exercised all due dilligence in your troubleshooting. It's overwhelmingly likely there is an issue with the mod. I guess the question is, do you crack it open, or send it away....

Waiting to hear from Wake & Vape.