Is it normal for the fire button to get warm (not HOT, but quite warm)?

[conanthewarrior]

Hi people. Hope you are OK.

I noticed today as I got my second mech, that when vaping, if used in quick succesion the fire button gets rather warm.

The battery casing is perfect, I am using my newest batteries untill I get shrink wrap due to others having nicks covered in electrical tape (5Meters of 18650 shrink wrap is in the post, I should have it very soon).

Is it where the whole mod acts as a conducter that the fire button gets warm? I never noticed it on my brass nemesis, but after trying it it also does it.

I am using 25R's with a 0.5Ohm single coil dripper.

 

[State O' Flux]

Hi people. Hope you are OK.

I noticed today as I got my second mech, that when vaping, if used in quick succesion the fire button gets rather warm.

You have resistance in the button assembly. You'll need a DMM to test and if possible, correct this issue.

Testing mech mods...

 

[conanthewarrior]

You have resistance in the button assembly. You'll need a DMM to test and if possible, correct this issue.

Testing mech mods...

Thank you. I did a test with a multimeter to see the difference between the battery, and the 510 to middle ring, and was suprised to find the baby blue stainless steel had zero difference, while my brass nemesis had 0.02V difference. I will go through this guide now.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK I have performed the tests quickly with my multimeter, everything seems to be in order? Battery voltage is fine, with no voltage drop, but the 5th test is giving a reading of 2V, which it should not be.

EDIT: I THOUGHT it was a perfect battery, but I have found the tiniest nick you could imagine. I will repair that now, but would that be the cause?

 

[conanthewarrior]

It was the nick in the battery. I was using what I thought was my newest 25R's as it looked it, but it was not. There is now no heat during use in the fire button.

I am very lucky that nothing bad happened, just the battery generatig heat with the short.

I even checked the battery over for nicks before use, it was that small. I am using the real new 25R, and there is no heat in the fire button, on either mod.

 

[conanthewarrior]

On a different note, I think I am going to apply locktite to the fire buttons main outer thread that goes in the mod. The machining is so smooth, when I unscrew the fire button, the inside also unscrews, making the battery loose and not fire. The brass one does not do this, I think the threads are stiffer on that one.

For now, I only have 5 batteries out of 14 that are not nicked. I have 5 metres of 18650 shrink wrap in the post, from the UK so it may even come tomorrow hopefully, I want to be able to use any battery, as the ones repaired with electrical tape do not fit, I did not realise how tight the tolerance was.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK I have retested the brass nemesis vs the stainless steel, they both have zero voltage difference to the battery, both fire great, and I am enjoying using these.

No wonder my fiancee keeps wanting to use hers, there is a certain charm to these mechs.

EDIT: It is in my head, as the voltage difference is zero, but it feels like the brass nemesis hits harder than the blue stainless steel one.

 

[Zamazam]

I would advise against loktite. Not a good thing to use on the switch because you will need a huge amount of torque to dissemble the switch once applied.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I would advise against loktite. Not a good thing to use on the switch because you will need a huge amount of torque to dissemble the switch once applied.

What would you recommend? As its really anoying having the mod perfectly set up to close just right on a battery, with no space, for it to unscrew itself enough that it will not fire after 2-3 locks on/off.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I am thinking of jamming a small piece of tape around the threads, just the clear tape to remedy the unscrewing as I have no plumbers tape to hand, but have used sellotape before to stop things unscrewing?

EDIT: I dont need to. Realised when it is screwed in fully and up to two turns less, it is stiff and does not move, it was where it was not high up enough in the device.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I have realised I have lost the pin for both devices, but they still work fine? What exactly did that pin do? I have made replacements out of plastic, but it just sits there, doing nothing lol.

 

[Zamazam]

The rice pin allow you to take the switch out without unscrewing the whole switch assembly, plus it keeps the switch from unscrewing and getting loose when you use it. I think you found your issue and fix Conan. Get 2 more rice pins. You can use a small snip from a thin, thin metal clothes hanger, just deburr it and make sure it's not too long.

 

[conanthewarrior]

The rice pin allow you to take the switch out without unscrewing the whole switch assembly, plus it keeps the switch from unscrewing and getting loose when you use it. I think you found your issue and fix Conan. Get 2 more rice pins. You can use a small snip from a thin, thin metal clothes hanger, just deburr it and make sure it's not too long.

Ahh that is why it is bloody unscrewing all the time after I have set it up perfectly! Thanks man.

I also realise how lucky I am, the fire button has a burn mark on it near the top. The battery must of arced or something, but it was enough power to leave a burn mark on metal. I come close to learning what them vent holes were for!

 

[conanthewarrior]

Ok I have fitted a replacement, the whole unit STILL unscrews. I do not understand how the pin stops it unscrewing, it is touching nothing, just lodged in a lot that touches nothing else?

How does the little pin stop it unscrewing, it is wracking my brain.

 

[conanthewarrior]

The brass one does not unscrew without the pin, the blue one does. The brass one seems to hit harder anyway, so will most likely use that as the pin seems to do nothing at all lol.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Right, I tested mine and my fiancees, they both have resitance across the mech. My brass nemesis has none.

I am still getting the same voltage as the battery from the 510 to middle ring on both devices, even the one with resitance.

Is it because it is stainless steel there is resistance, and the brass one has none?

They work perfectly, I am just worried about the resistance issue. It says on the guide privided state o' flux, that they have poor conductivity if there is resistance.

Everything else reads as it should.

So my main question is, are they OK to use due to the resistance, leading to less conductivity according to the guide, or unsafe? The other test results read as they should, just the resistance across the device. The voltage tests are all as should be.

 

[conanthewarrior]

The resitance is from fire button to top cap. It is not getting warm during use, I guess it is just where it is stainless and the other brass, because brass is more conductive there is no resitance, but due to the blue ones being stainless steel, thus less conductive it is what is leading to resistance? The voltage is still the same as the batteries voltage, so the topper is still receving the same voltage as the brass one, and produces the same clouds, and the button does not get warm after taking apart and putting back together.

My fiancees never got warm during use, but also has resistance through the mod. Exactly the same resistance as mine in fact.

 

[conanthewarrior]

Sorry I lied, there is ONE other area, the final test. The baby blue nemesis is reading from positive post to negative post 3.7V, while the brass reads 3.8V, so is why it hits harder.

EDIT: I should add, this is NOT a fresh battery. I will redo the tests when the battery needs replacing, it has some more life left in it untill pulling. But the stainless steel to topper has a 0.2V drop, while the brass has a 0.1. Now, it could be the topper as I am not using my best topper to test.

I will later in the week when its time to rebuild put a 1 Ohm coil in my best RDA and run the tests again, I expect the voltage to be a touch higher. Cheapest clone from fasttech, don't buy, spend a few more pounds and you get much better quality.

 

[conanthewarrior]

OK, its safe to say I am not buying another nemesis clone, and will definitely not get stainless steel. a 4V battery with my best topper on the stainless steel is getting 3.49 volts to the positive and negative pin when fired, whereas the copper one is getting 3.9Volts.

The mods look nice, but are rubbish. My fiancee likes it as it is weak, but I am definitely buying more conductive metals in the future after doing the tests myself.

Getting a different mech in the week with some spare change, as I do quite like the nemesis, but I want one without the rice pin. I think I am going to get myself a copper mech. Going to do a bit of research before I do though.