New To Mechs

[CrazyChef]

Hey!

I'm doing a trade here on VU for a tube mech mod, but have only used regulated in the past. Can one of you fine folks point me in the direction of a decent source of info on using these? I looked around and didn't see a sticky on the subject anywhere. I want to avoid any disinformation, so that's why I'm asking here instead of just using Google. I'll be using Samsung 25R 18650s.


Thanks!
CC

 

[TRAPstar]

don't get it wet, and don't feed it after midnight.

 

[CrazyChef]

Excellent advice from TRA the Porn star. Thanks!

 

[TRAPstar]

well for real, keep the threads clean. make sure battery vents are cleaned out. most importantly do you have an ohm reader, knowledge of ohms law, building, etc? i made my friend trade me his mech for my Eleaf iStick 50w because he didnt know the first thing about building, electricity, or battery safety.

 

[CrazyChef]

Yeah, I've been learning to build coils and have an ohm reader. I can't even remember the last time I used a pre-made coil. My main interest is in knowing how to use the mech. How to judge battery limits vs. coil specs and that kind of stuff. Basically, just mech mod safety.

 

[CrazyChef]

So according to Steam Engine, as long as I stay with builds that are at or above 0.15Ω using the 25Rs , I should be okay? And the lower the resistance, the faster the battery drain? Also, 25Rs should not be used under 2.5V, correct?

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Yeah 0.15 is ok. Honestly long before 2.5v you'll want to swap. I do/did at 3.5-3.7v.

 

[pulsevape]

Hey!

I'm doing a trade here on VU for a tube mech mod, but have only used regulated in the past. Can one of you fine folks point me in the direction of a decent source of info on using these? I looked around and didn't see a sticky on the subject anywhere. I want to avoid any disinformation, so that's why I'm asking here instead of just using Google. I'll be using Samsung 25R 18650s.


Thanks!
CC

press the button

 

[CrazyChef]

thanks

 

[pulsevape]

keep the contacts clean maybe weekly...get a mod with a switch you like....if you're going to sub ohm that low your going to need a mod that vents well just in case..you're gonna need a mod whose button doesn't get to hot vaping way low.also twisted wire builds will drain your batteries fast...Yeah I doubt i use a battey once it drops below 3.5......If you're gonna build real low you may wanna look at mods that were developed for competition vaping...the advent of building below .2 is relatively a new fad in vaping and most of the older designed mech mods weren't thinking in terms of being pipe bombs.....

 

[nabibrian]

If you're gonna build real low you may wanna look at mods that were developed for competition vaping...

Do you have a few suggestions of mods that would fit what you describe here?

 

[CurlyxCracker]

If you get a hot button on your mech and it's spring loaded, verify your build. If still getting a hot button easy fix, means less resistance through that spring, Take coaxial cable and build a copper spring with the center conduit. No more hot button. Cleaning threads, 510 weekly is good maintenance. Causes more voltage drop if not maintained = less voltage to coil.

What mech did you get? Those 25rs will be fine. Imo, second best battery to the vtc4.

 

[OBDave]

I've got a thread stickied in the "Help I Have Questions" sub that addresses a lot of issues you might want to consider as a new mech user, plus links to some of the more helpful VU threads as of a few months ago - I know you're a more advanced user than my target audience, @CrazyChef, but it might be worth a glance...

 

[CrazyChef]

What mech did you get?

The Beyond Vape Beacon in black.

 

[CrazyChef]

but it might be worth a glance...

Absolutely - Thanks!

 

[SoCal_Son]

Whatever mech you decide to get check the threading for burrs. And wash before you use. Some mechs will have machine oil or residue. Take apart the switch and check for metal shavings.

SoCal Son

 

[CrazyChef]

've got a thread stickied in the "Help I Have Questions" sub

Dude, I just took a quick look, and will read everything there when I have time. Awesome info - Thanks again!

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Oh. From @Vash? That things probably clean as a whistle already

 

[CrazyChef]

Okay, so, if I understand this correctly, as long as the resistance of the coil doesn't draw more amperage than the battery is capable of, then the safety of the setup is fine. The amount of wire (mass) used only affects the quantity (mAh) of electricity used and will decrease the available voltage with usage.

 

[CurlyxCracker]

Do you have a few suggestions of mods that would fit what you describe here?

"Competition mods/rdas" are gimmicks words used by people like congravape. You want a one tube mod with copper/silver plated contacts/510 or hybrid. There are many mods not labeled as competition mods that will have very little voltage drop. I had a pinoy mod that had crazy low voltage drop.

 

[scarecrowjenkins]

You'll definitely notice when the battery starts to drop. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Frustration will make you change your batteries long before they get too low haha. I have an ultrasonic cleaner ($32 @ harbor freight) that i disassemble and drop my mech parts into. I have gotten into the habit of just wiping out the threading when i change my batteries. In some mods the threads can gunk up at a surprising rate. As long as you play it safe and keep it clean it's a pretty no-nonsense way to vape. I highly enjoy the mech road. Just make sure you have a carrying case for your batteries

 

[CrazyChef]

Excellent advice - thank you.

Just make sure you have a carrying case for your batteries

I'm good there...

 

[PaulS]

Thr mech you have have is not a hybrid - that is a plus. So just make sure you have good connection with your battery. Generally you screw in your atomizer first than your battery and then see if any adjustments are needed on your top cap - assuming yours is adjustable - so you get no battery rattle.

For batteries on a mech I always recommend 25R IMR which you have. Just make sure they are all wrapped properly - no tears - and the surface contacts clean. Keeping your mech clean is important. Now - I did at the beginning have a tendency to over drip. Be mindful. Some atomizers will spill the juice through your air slots if you do this and that juice is hot. Also take your atomizer off occasionally and clean everything out.

I primarily drip even at work. My builds on my mech tubes range from around .12 to ,22. Average build I would say is around .16 or so for my work vape. Note that mech tubes can get addictive. For your first mech I would highly recommend the Colonial. Beautiful switch, 510 connector, extremely light weight and comfortable. Now I use mine at least twice a week. But, I love a hybrid - this is not for beginners - because they simply hit harder. With a hybrids you have to be completely aware that the bottom pin on your atty sticks out enough not to short out your batteries. If you are not sure about this than stick with a 510 connector.

Why do I mention all this? You are getting a beacon. Trust me here. Unregulated mods are addictive. You will more than likely be getting another tube, a big old dual 18650 unregulated box and more. Once you go mech there is no looking back, lol.

The beacon takes three different battery sizes being telescopic. I will tell you this now - I own 18350 and 18500 mods. They restrict your builds and limit your battery life. Maybe you will use it as such but really a mech mod works best as an 18650 or 26650. My 18350 petit gros requires me to keep four batteries on me and I cannot build below .7 withiout being extremely mindful and then only with my efests - not my awr batteries.

Hope this helped. At this moment I'm vaping on my SMPL hybrid with an El Cabron atty (this is identical to a twisted or 13th heavens, btw). I'm thoroughly enjoying it. It is a great Sunday vape. So vape on, be calm, enjoy.

 

[OBDave]

Okay, so, if I understand this correctly, as long as the resistance of the coil doesn't draw more amperage than the battery is capable of, then the safety of the setup is fine. The amount of wire (mass) used only affects the quantity (mAh) of electricity used and will decrease the available voltage with usage.

Correct - using more wire to get to the same resistance will have some effect on battery life, and you'll want to make sure your batteries don't drop below 3.7V at rest (they'll be dropping lower than this under load, however, and you'll soon develop a feel for when they're dropping off), but as long as you consider the amperage draw at a max 4.2 volts and stay within your battery's guidelines you'll be good. Considering a bit of voltage drop from your atty and the 510 pin, you'll be building in a bit of a safety margin as well.

 

[CrazyChef]

On a related note - Is it relatively safe to quickly pulse new builds to help increase the resistance? Say I have a build that, once oxidized, will be 0.17Ω but starts out at 0.11Ω "raw" resistance. Or should that not even be considered?

 

[All Your Base...]

Go to an ohm calculator, and punch in 4.2 for volts, and put in your ohms, for example, 0.15. Your build will be drawing 28 amps and vaping at 117 watts. These are things you cannot control since you want a 0.15ohm build.

Then go to steam-engine and do the build for 117 watts (making sure the little logo next to watts is green). For a build like that, you'll definetly need something like VTC5 batts and 22 or 20awg wire.

 

[robot zombie]

On a related note - Is it relatively safe to quickly pulse new builds to help increase the resistance? Say I have a build that, once oxidized, will be 0.17Ω but starts out at 0.11Ω "raw" resistance. Or should that not even be considered?

That would really be pushing it for a 20-amp battery. I don't think it'd be catastrophic with a 30-amp cell, though. I'm not factoring the amount of voltage drop at .11, which would likely be pretty insane. That alone might actually leave you with a more reasonable current draw on those pulses. It's still likely to pull more than 30-amps, though. I'd still have reservations about doing that, but I doubt it would pop a new battery. They can take more than people tend to think they can. Just not for very long.

And on that note, I'd like to recommend the LG HB6 for builds below .2. They last a surprisingly long time above 20 amps and generally handle it much better than any other battery I've used. I would pulse your theoretical coil on one of those, for sure. They're some seriously kickass mech batteries. I've shelved my mech-dedicated VTC4's and 25r's for those.

I've noticed that mechs tend to favor all sorts of standard wire builds that ohm more less the same before and after pulsing. I think the size of the coils that work best on mechs tend to make them have fewer problems with shorts by nature. And that's another thing to consider. You're going to want to have a tad less surface area than you're probably used to for your mech builds. Claptons and such on a mech are going to underwhelm by comparison to regulated devices. Might want to play around with standards and parallels.

Mechs are a blast, man. Have fun! I have a SMPL and a Sigelei 150 TC. Guess which one I use more. XD