Istick 50 auto fire. What to get next?

[sonarman]

2 parter. My Istick50 (black) purchased from a reputable site started auto firing a few hours ago. I noticed that I could not get a hit and figured the batt was down. Then it started auto firing. I could not turn it off and the 10 sec run time kept kicking in. I was using a mad hatter RDA dual coil at .27 ohms. It's possible that some e liquid got into the charger hole. I unscrewed the RDA and was able to power it off. It's now sitting in a metal bucket covered in my drive way.
I'm not messing with it again and will try to send it back. I had it about 2 months.
What should I get next? I want a regulated box mod 50-100 watts that has removable batteries and can fire down to .1 ohms. Oh, and one that won't burn my house down or crap out after a few months. What is good that fits all that and has been out for a while?

 

[Maverik_X]

Sigelei 150 watt is a good choice or a black iPV4

 

[Jack Merridew]

Which one is the best? I'm also considering replacing my Istick.

Also, why the black specifically?

 

[gingerschnapps]

Go with the Sigelei 100+ or 150. There have been reports lately of the IPV4 balance board and 510 shorting out causing the batteries to vent and/or catching fire. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Maverik_X]

the black doesn't have the mirror screen issue like the silver did or does, the balance charger is fine on ipv4 pbusardo even ran it through the ringer its safe.

As for the 510 pin it's most likely user error they think they can adjust it when its a self adjusting pin tearing off the leads.

I haven't heard of any reports of fires please list your source gingerschnapps
.

 

[gingerschnapps]

http://redd.it/39g2yd There have also been three others that I've seen just on Reddit alone.

 

[gingerschnapps]

And this one: http://redd.it/39azxa

 

[Maverik_X]

thanks gingerschnapps seems a insulator can come loose they need to fix that shit, yea best to wait a bit on a ipv4 before buying one they needa work out that insulator issue, I have 2 of them and luckily have had 0 issue's. Best bet would be to get the sig 100+ or 150 watt.

 

[gingerschnapps]

I haven't had any issues with mine either. However, I will probably just void my warranty and take the board out completely and save myself the hassle of a fire or burned up device. My husband has the 100+ and has had no issues with it at all and it performs perfectly. If sonarman isn't interested in TC, then I would highly suggest the Sigelei. I did see today that Sigelei is coming out with a brand new device with TC however. I may have to wait for that one. (linky: https://instagram.com/p/3yHAMUl_ja/)

 

[Jack Merridew]

I'll be going for the Sigelei 100w my next mod I guess. I just think it doesn't look so good.

 

[nabibrian]

2 parter. My Istick50 (black) purchased from a reputable site started auto firing a few hours ago. I noticed that I could not get a hit and figured the batt was down. Then it started auto firing. I could not turn it off and the 10 sec run time kept kicking in. I was using a mad hatter RDA dual coil at .27 ohms. It's possible that some e liquid got into the charger hole. I unscrewed the RDA and was able to power it off. It's now sitting in a metal bucket covered in my drive way.
I'm not messing with it again and will try to send it back. I had it about 2 months.
What should I get next? I want a regulated box mod 50-100 watts that has removable batteries and can fire down to .1 ohms. Oh, and one that won't burn my house down or crap out after a few months. What is good that fits all that and has been out for a while?

Just bought one of these myself: http://www.vapingunderground.com/posts/509971/

 

[sonarman]

Fuck it. Just pulled the trigger on an Evic VT, lol!

 

[sonarman]

UPDATE: So Last night I flipped the Istick 50 so the firing button was facing down and bounced it against my thigh. A good amount of juice came out (of the firing button). So far it's been working fine. Saw this "fix" somewhere else and tried it after the vendor said I had it >30 days and it was non returnable.

 

[OBDave]

UPDATE: So Last night I flipped the Istick 50 so the firing button was facing down and bounced it against my thigh. A good amount of juice came out (of the firing button). So far it's been working fine. Saw this "fix" somewhere else and tried it after the vendor said I had it >30 days and it was non returnable.

Interesting - may give this a try...unscrewing my Arctic it sometimes sounds like some juice may be in the threads, but I've never been able to get much out cleaning with a paper towel/pipe cleaner. I'm still not an iStick fan, though.

Count my vote, however, as one of total confidence for the Sig 100/100+/150 - I've put at least 200 battery charge cycles through my v1 Sig 100 and the thing is a rock-solid workhorse...even rounded off the sharp corners a bit by dropping it on concrete a few times (don't do this on purpose).

 

[Zamazam]

Fuck it. Just pulled the trigger on an Evic VT, lol!

Just got mine a week ago. You will love it.

 

[Zamazam]

UPDATE: So Last night I flipped the Istick 50 so the firing button was facing down and bounced it against my thigh. A good amount of juice came out (of the firing button). So far it's been working fine. Saw this "fix" somewhere else and tried it after the vendor said I had it >30 days and it was non returnable.

Take a can of spray electronic board cleaner and tip the mod upside down and give the switch and 510 connector a few sprays to flush out the gunk. I did this to mine when it auto fired, hasn't done it since I did the cleaning.

 

[Maverik_X]

I was about to say the same thing Zam is right it wouldn't hurt to try the spray is pretty cheap around $5 or so. Good luck

 

[sonarman]

Take a can of spray electronic board cleaner and tip the mod upside down and give the switch and 510 connector a few sprays to flush out the gunk. I did this to mine when it auto fired, hasn't done it since I did the cleaning.

Where does it flush out at?

 

[Zamazam]

It will flush the crap and juice out of the switch and dribble down onto paper towels (if you used them). The cleaner evaporates quickly and does not leave a residue. You tip the mod so the switch is facing downwards the the crap will flush out of the switch, around the edges.

 

[sonarman]

I have the imagination of a rock so thanks for clearing that up.

 

[UncleRJ]

I have the imagination of a rock so thanks for clearing that up.

Are we related?

 

[sonarman]

Well that did not last long. My Ishit 50 is stuck in charging mode even when unplugged. Won't turn off or on if that makes sense. 10 clicks won't display the temp either. Nuthin. What a piece of crap.

 

[SomeTexan]

Well that did not last long. My Ishit 50 is stuck in charging mode even when unplugged. Won't turn off or on if that makes sense. 10 clicks won't display the temp either. Nuthin. What a piece of crap.

You can't really call the iStick a piece of crap when you have filled it with juice. Take care of it, make sure your atomizers aren't leaking into it and you shouldn't have a problem. Electronics and liquids don't mix, simple as that. Mine works great, but I check my atomizers before I screw them on. When I change a coil or even just refill one, it goes in my stand with a paper towel under it for at least half an hour. I don't leave atomizers on it overnight or even if it will spend more than a few minutes out of my hand. Figure out how you got juice in it and make sure it doesn't happen again or you will just ruin another mod. These batteries need to be respected and taken seriously.

 

[Zamazam]

Any one with a current (recently purchased) iStick 50 seeing these issues?

 

[sonarman]

Any one with a current (recently purchased) iStick 50 seeing these issues?

Yes.

 

[sonarman]

You can't really call the iStick a piece of crap when you have filled it with juice. Take care of it, make sure your atomizers aren't leaking into it and you shouldn't have a problem. Electronics and liquids don't mix, simple as that. Mine works great, but I check my atomizers before I screw them on. When I change a coil or even just refill one, it goes in my stand with a paper towel under it for at least half an hour. I don't leave atomizers on it overnight or even if it will spend more than a few minutes out of my hand. Figure out how you got juice in it and make sure it doesn't happen again or you will just ruin another mod. These batteries need to be respected and taken seriously.

I'm sorry Istick, you are not a piece of crap. My emotions got the better of me. I would ask of you to maybe work on putting the firing button not so close to your tank. I in turn will work harder at taking care of your little sibling Istick 30 better. Tucking it in at night, and making sure it is ready for bed.

 

[SomeTexan]

I'm sorry Istick, you are not a piece of crap. My emotions got the better of me. I would ask of you to maybe work on putting the firing button not so close to your tank. I in turn will work harder at taking care of your little sibling Istick 30 better. Tucking it in at night, and making sure it is ready for bed.

If you are getting juice in it, you need to figure out where is is coming from. If your atomizer is leaking through the seal around the positive pin, you will ruin every mod you put that atomizer on. You can get pissy all you want, it's no skin off my sack. I just don't want to see you become another statistic used against those of us that can safely deal with this stuff.

Just because the juice comes out through the button doesn't mean that is where it got in. Or are you saying that you know you spilled juice all over it and just kept using it?

 

[sonarman]

I'm screwing around man. I know it's from having the juice holes in my Delta II open more than what they should be for the viscosity of juice I was using which caused it to leak from the air holes in the tank down into the firing button. I agree that elections and liquids don't mix and appreciate that being pointed out, lol!
I do however think that putting any hole into the electronics as close as possible to where any liquids can interact with it is a bad idea. However I am sure this is not the first time this has happened with an Istick.
And I'm sorry Istick 50 you deserve better.

 

[SomeTexan]

I wasn't trying to be a dick or anything, just trying to make sure you (and any newb that reads this thread) understands the caution needed when handling these devices. Just like guns, they need to be respected because you can get hurt.

I hope your next mod works out better for you. iSticks aren't perfect, but they are a decent. There are worse designs out there.

 

[sonarman]

It won't happen again, lesson learned. Now I can't wait until the Evic Vt shows up for sure!

 

[SomeTexan]

Post a review on it when you get it. That's one of the many I think will make its way into my collection. I hope it works better for you.

 

[Markw4mms]

Any one with a current (recently purchased) iStick 50 seeing these issues?

I've had mine for a week, and pretty much chain vaping on it with no issues so far (knocks wood).

 

[Maverik_X]

I think eleaf could have easily fixed the issue with juice getting into the mod instead of putting profit before safety. Look at innokin they are doing built in battery mods right and have been for awhile.

Seems like everday there's a new thread or post with someone having a issue with their istick 50 watt. When will the madness end?

 

[sonarman]

A gasket over the on/off button like you see on maglights would have worked well. Istick 50+ you saw it here first!! haha

 

[nodor]

I bought an istick 50 when they came out. Has been a great little mod for me. Had the autofire happen to me once. It was caused by juice getting into the electronics. There was no sign of the entry being the fire button. When I opened it up yes there was quite a bit of liquid in there. Blew me away that it worked at all. I think the juice got in thru the 510 connection. It's just a small hunk of rubber sealing it. I flushed it out and since then I only run my maganus or goliath on it as they have never leaked a drop. Been good as gold since. Had a similar problem on my sig100 plus. Juice was getting thru the 510 running down the inside of the case and out the bottom. Didn't cause a problem as it flowed under the battery sled and all electronics are on the opposite side as the 510 connector unlike the istick.

 

[Robert B]

Here's another that just exploded last week. Looks like Joyetech/Eleaf is still shipping garbage

 

[Bean8379]

2 parter. My Istick50 (black) purchased from a reputable site started auto firing a few hours ago. I noticed that I could not get a hit and figured the batt was down. Then it started auto firing. I could not turn it off and the 10 sec run time kept kicking in. I was using a mad hatter RDA dual coil at .27 ohms. It's possible that some e liquid got into the charger hole. I unscrewed the RDA and was able to power it off. It's now sitting in a metal bucket covered in my drive way.
I'm not messing with it again and will try to send it back. I had it about 2 months.
What should I get next? I want a regulated box mod 50-100 watts that has removable batteries and can fire down to .1 ohms. Oh, and one that won't burn my house down or crap out after a few months. What is good that fits all that and has been out for a while?

If, and I'm saying IF, juice got on the board or the connections and caused the issue, that is user error. If you send it back, I don't think they'll replace it. I certainly wouldn't if someone sent a box back to me and that was the problem. You are responsible to not get juice where it can seep into the mod. You do this by not dripping or spillingnit carelessly and inspecting it to see if it needs cleaned. A q-tip dipped or sprayed with alcohol will get juice out of your 510 connection. Also, if juice DID seep down in and cause a problem, it doesn't make the mod any less reliable. It didn't crap out in a couple months because it sucks. It crapped out due to user error. The 510 connection is not liquid proof, or even if the company that made it said it was, I wouldn't actually expect it to be.

 

[Robert B]

Juice is non-conductive, and this has and still is happening to thousands of units. Not user error, the units are flat out cheap junk garbage, and joyetech is a company who could give a rats ass if your house burns down

 

[Bean8379]

The fact remains that whether juice getting into the board should or should not cause problems, it is entirely preventable by not allowing juice to get in there in the first place.

 

[Robert B]

All of my Joytech devices have performed flawlessly.
Where are you buying this "non-conductive" juice?

everywhere

The fact remains that whether juice getting into the board should or should not cause problems, it is entirely preventable by not allowing juice to get in there in the first place.

The fact remains that juice in the circuit boards has not been causing the auto-fire problems on these mods. Google istick auto-fire.

 

[Bean8379]

everywhere

The fact remains that juice in the circuit boards has not been causing the auto-fire problems on these mods. Google istick auto-fire.

Why didn't you just say that to begin with lol

 

[Robert B]

Why didn't you just say that to begin with lol

Don't know man, just figured it was common knowledge. There were literally hundreds of them reported on reddit over the last year, and talked about quite a bit here on VU. A few home fires, car fires, purse fires, backpack fires, holes burned in chairs, tables, beds, carpets..etc.. Just posted that pict to show it was still happening, and that joyetech/eleaf still doesn't give a shit.

 

[Bean8379]

I don't use joyetech devices and I'm not a redditor, only been on here for about a couple months maybe so didn't know all that.