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Battery importance
- Thread starter misa0890
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It can have an impact on your vape quality as very small sizes can handle (as a general rule) lower amperage output, all else being equal. Plus a smaller battery will generally have a lower vape time before being drained.
Lower amperage means lower watts output, which means less energy to turn your liquid to steam. So if you're using a very airy tank, you may need the amps...which the battery just can't supply.
If you're using a stock clearomizer, it probably doesn't matter--they tend to run on the lower end of the wattage spectrum anyway.
It's a more minor consideration, but how long your battery lives depends on how hard you push it. Larger batteries of the same chemistry, being able to handle more power, aren't pushed as hard and will, on average, last for more cycles.
And, as always, never skimp on your batteries. Buy good Samsung, LG, or Sony batteries and research (or ask) which ones will be best for your application. Those extra few dollars per battery will get paid back to you in terms of durability, reliability, safety, and knowing that the battery is labeled accurately and will actually deliver what it promises!
Lower amperage means lower watts output, which means less energy to turn your liquid to steam. So if you're using a very airy tank, you may need the amps...which the battery just can't supply.
If you're using a stock clearomizer, it probably doesn't matter--they tend to run on the lower end of the wattage spectrum anyway.
It's a more minor consideration, but how long your battery lives depends on how hard you push it. Larger batteries of the same chemistry, being able to handle more power, aren't pushed as hard and will, on average, last for more cycles.
And, as always, never skimp on your batteries. Buy good Samsung, LG, or Sony batteries and research (or ask) which ones will be best for your application. Those extra few dollars per battery will get paid back to you in terms of durability, reliability, safety, and knowing that the battery is labeled accurately and will actually deliver what it promises!
I appreciate the response! Well I'm going to purchase an authentic SMPL with an RDA (not sure which one yet- maybe the tugboat). I mean that mod can only handle 18650 (I think). Forgive me for sounding inexperienced but is a clearomizer another term for a tank? You said clearomizers run on the lower end of the wattage spectrum but I and most people I know usually vape on higher wattage with a tank than they do with a rda. Maybe I'm not understanding the physics of what you're saying but that's what I comprehended. I have a yellow battery and a purple battery, I think nitecore but I'm not sure. How do I find the amps on it and what is the ideal ampage for ohming at .4 and probably around 40 watts? Also what specific battery do you recommend? Efest any good?
If you are going to use a mech, get Sony VTC4's They are 30 Amp continuous output batteries. The LGHE2 and LGHE4 are good batteries, but rated for 20 amps. If you are going to use a mech, please learn Ohm's Law and get an Ohm Meter (usaohmmeters.com) and learn to tailor your RDA builds to your battery max amp output. A safe build will not consume more than 80% of the batteries max amperage output.
Post pic's of your batteries so we can identify them. If you don't know the amperage output, do not use them in a mech under any circumstance until you find out.
The batteries will usually have the amperage listed on the label.
Post pic's of your batteries so we can identify them. If you don't know the amperage output, do not use them in a mech under any circumstance until you find out.
The batteries will usually have the amperage listed on the label.
Nitecore makes wonderful flashlights and that's what there battery's are for, not vaping. For a mech Sony vtc4's are the best option.
Get an ohm meter and use steamengine.com for your builds. A clearomizer is a cheap ego tank sometimes disposable. Post a picture of your battery's or if there are any numbers on them let us know and maybe we can tell what they are. The wattage you need depends on your build, steamengine will tell you that.
When you see on the news that some vaper blew his face off it's usually a mech with over stressed battery's. Vape smart and safe.
Get an ohm meter and use steamengine.com for your builds. A clearomizer is a cheap ego tank sometimes disposable. Post a picture of your battery's or if there are any numbers on them let us know and maybe we can tell what they are. The wattage you need depends on your build, steamengine will tell you that.
When you see on the news that some vaper blew his face off it's usually a mech with over stressed battery's. Vape smart and safe.
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Yep, that's a single 18650 mechanical mod.
I'm not a fan of mech mods because of the "blowing your face off" issue, although plenty of us use them quite safely. Still, all it takes is one accident (that an electronic mod would have protected you from) and...
There's really an enormous amount of overlap! I use the Kanger T3s, which is sometimes called a clearomizer and sometimes called a clearomizer tank system. I call it a clearomizer, although the capacity is more of a mini tank system (2.5 ml). However, it's not as sturdily constructed as the average tank and doesn't look like a tank.
Clearos (clearomizers) tend to be more fragile, more of a step between the cartomizer and the tank, and have far fewer options in terms of coils. They tend to (but not always) lack airflow controls, and, on average, work better at lower wattage.
Most of us clearo users report liking wattages from 4 to 10. Tank users may be in the same range, but generally do run a lot higher.
My current setting on a Kanger T3s with a stock 2.2 ohm coil on an eVic VTC Mini is 4.6 watts and I'm perfectly happy with it.
With the clearo's tighter draw and tendency to not wick liquids nearly as fast as many tank systems, they'd go dry and taste horrible at higher wattages.
The clearo is more made for the tootle puffer (a person who hits his vape at low power, but often). Tanks tend more to the modwomper (moderate usage, moderate power) or cloud chaser (low usage, high power).
But again, there are always exceptions and I continue my eternal search for an easy to use, easy to rebuild tootle puffer tank with minimal number of bits and pieces.
We'd need photos to be sure, particularly of the printing on the battery itself.
I'm personally not a fan of Efest as they re-wrap other manufacturer's batteries and tend to seriously over-rate the battery on their label. They list the pulse rating instead of continuous...which sounds OK until you realize that there's no standard for pulse rating and companies can test it over seconds...or milliseconds.
I prefer to stick with batteries sold by the manufacturers directly, or by other known-good companies. Samsung, LG, Sony, Panasonic (for some applications!), and AW are all great batteries. I own Samsungs and LGs.
A mech mod, like the one you listed, is directly driven and won't set watts--you'll get whatever the native output is given your atomizer.
Technically, 0.4 ohms will draw 8.5 amps when the battery is down to 3.4 volts on a mech mod. It'll draw 10.5 amps with a fully charged, 4.2 volt battery. That'll range between 28.9 watts (at 3.4 volts) and 44 watts (at 4.2 volts).
I really like to build in a 50% safety factor on my batteries, so a 20 amp battery would be the worst I'd use here. Something like the LG HG2 would probably perform very well and give a good lifespan at this level of demand.
I really don't know much about the physics of it which is what I am trying to learn. Ohms are basically how much resistance is needed for an amp to travel through the circuit when 1 volt of potential is exerted, correct? The two formulas I know are 1) Voltage = Current times resistance and 2) Power = Voltage times Current. Voltage is measured in volts, Current is measured in Amps and Resistance is measured in Ohms. How did you arrive at that amperage?
Now if I wanted to find the Ohm's by myself the correct formula would be Voltage/Current. I guess I figure it out with the gauge of my build, how many wraps, and the size of the wraps but how do I do that?
Another question: I hear people say "optimal voltage". What exactly does that mean?
The batteries that I actually have are LG DBHE. Another one I have looks like a duracell and says Subohm on it. People tell me it has ventilation problems so I don't really use it anymore.
You're kind of thinking about it a little backwards. Technically you're correct but it does sound like you're a little confused so maybe this will help. Voltage is what's needed to produce current. Current is the flow of electrons. Resistance stops current from flowing. So if you have a voltage difference between two points, current will flow between them, and the resistance and voltage determine how much current that is. If there's more resistance less current will flow, because it's resisting the current.
Some people like to think of electricity like water since you can see water so people sometimes have a better feel for how it works. Voltage is like water pressure. Current is like water flow. Resistance is the resistance to flow (so for example doing a smaller pipe would add resistance, or putting in a filter or something). Then you can think of a battery like a pump, because it adds voltage (pressure in our analogy).
So you can imagine if you put a pump on a huge water pipe then it would put out the maximum of whatever the pump could do and lots of water would flow. If you put the same pump on a tiny little tube with filters and stuff in it then it would flow much less. Similar to current flow with varying resistances.
Generally in the vaping world when you're deciding on batteries for a mech mod you know voltage and resistance, and need to find the current. As you said there are formulas for finding resistance based on the coil or you can use an ohm meter. Then once you have that you plug in the standard voltages of a battery in and then you find current. That's what he did in his post.
Alternately you could be targeting a good build for a particular battery, that's when you would plug in current and voltage and calculate a certain number of ohms. Then you could calculate from there how to build your coil.
Pretty much one of those possibilities. Sorry I don't know the coil resistance formula off the top of my head, I think people just generally use steam engine to calculate it.
Like in what context?
What's the number after the DBHE? It's probably 2 or 4. People generally refer to those as the HE2 or HE4 (DB aren't part of the model name). They're both good 20A batteries.
Jon covered most of this admirably above.
For your calculation, I took the battery voltage (say, 4.2) and divided it by your coil's resistance (0.4). So 4.2/0.4 = 10.5A.
Wattage = Volts * Amps, so W = 4.2 * 10.5 = 44.1 watts.
Wattage also equals amps squared times resistance, so W = I^2*R = 10.5^2 * 0.4 = 44.1 watts. It works the same either way.
With Steam Engine, at least at first. As time goes on, you'll get a good feel for what resistance a given build will generate. However, always, always check this with a volt meter. Better safe than sorry, and on a mech mod, sorry can mean very sorry indeed.
The risks are much reduced on an electronic mod, which generally has a lower limit of resistance and refuses to fire below it.
Do you mean nominal voltage?
If so, our lithium batteries vary between 4.2 at the top (for the very vast majority of batteries) and the lower cutoff of your mod. The absolute lowest voltage tolerable on the battery is either 3.0 or 2.5 depending on the chemistry.
The nominal voltage, the average voltage generated over the life of the battery, is about 3.7.
Ahhh I see. Things are starting to become more clear now. So with a mechanical mod, I can choose what resistance and what wattage I want to use it at by the battery and the build? Just for the record amps is unit of measurement for current correct? So amps and current can be used interchangeably?
For example, my subohmcell battery has a 3.7 voltage. If I want my coil to hit at 40 watts I would have to create a wrap that makes my resistance .35?
Formula: I = V*R =3.7/.35= 10.57 W=I*V = 10.57*3.7 = 39.10 (close enough)
Am I on the right track?
Maybe I just misinterpreted what my friend said but I thought he said something about 4.7 being optimal voltage. Maybe he just meant that its the perfect voltage for his preference that would give him the best vape hit.
I think I understand it better now (see above post). Now I just have to learn what effect different gauges and different size wraps and different amounts of wraps have on the resistance.
P.S- the number after DBHE is 2. Pink battery. Is 20 amps sufficient to vape on a mechanical mod?
P.P.S- all this information is for future use. As of now I'm using a box mod (Sigelei 75W) with a Atlantis V2 tank so I'm safe for now.
While I'm on the subject of my Atlantis V2 (i know this is the wrong section to post it in) it gives a very minimal staticy shock when I vape on it. I can barely feel it but its there. Any idea as to what that can be?
Also, I think there is something wrong with my Sigelei. It's hitting extremely harsh no matter what wattage I set it at. I vape at 3 nicotine. I tried it with different juices, and I've tried it with a Royal Hunter dripper and it's still giving me a unsmokeable harsh hit that it never used to give me. Any ideas? Thanks in advance fellas.
I can't speak to the Atlantis issue, except to say that static shocks are never normal!
With the Sig, which one do you have? The Sig 30 has two settings, one of which can be a lot harsher than the others. Other Sigs don't have those.
Just by the build of the coil. The battery will always mindlessly try to supply whatever amperage is required by the resistance.
(Keep in mind that mindless supply means the user has to keep an eye on whether that's appropriate for the battery in question).
Yes!
Yes! However, your battery's voltage of 3.7 is only the average. When fully charged, the voltage should be around 4.2. At fully discharged, around 3.0.
Most mech users tend to prefer their batteries closer to fully charged, so they'll start with a battery at 4.2 and pull it for recharging around 3.7 or 3.6.
That sounds reasonable. Most of us have a voltage preference for our device/topper combination...mine happens to be set at 3.4 V at the moment.
With the Sig, which one do you have? The Sig 30 has two settings, one of which can be a lot harsher than the others. Other Sigs don't have those.
Just by the build of the coil. The battery will always mindlessly try to supply whatever amperage is required by the resistance.
(Keep in mind that mindless supply means the user has to keep an eye on whether that's appropriate for the battery in question).
Yes!
Yes! However, your battery's voltage of 3.7 is only the average. When fully charged, the voltage should be around 4.2. At fully discharged, around 3.0.
Most mech users tend to prefer their batteries closer to fully charged, so they'll start with a battery at 4.2 and pull it for recharging around 3.7 or 3.6.
That sounds reasonable. Most of us have a voltage preference for our device/topper combination...mine happens to be set at 3.4 V at the moment.
The problem just ended up being the juice. I purchase juice from local vape shops that make their juice remotely and even on 3 mg it was just way too harsh. Another thing was that I apparently had my sigelei set on temperate control mode as opposed to power mode. That's the reason why my mod was constantly reading the same ohms even with a new RDA/Tank. Is it unsafe or does it mess with how my vape hits if I keep it at temperate control mode? I used to vape it on TC mode and it was fine until recently so I was just wondering if that was contributing to the problem or is it not a big deal.
Secondly, I am out of town and just threw my subohmcell battery away because I was told it had ventilation problems and was a bad battery so I'm down to just one battery. I really don't feel like purchasing a new battery because I have two and I am going back home in a couple of days so I was wondering if it is safe to charge my battery from my sigelei from the USB port and leave it charging while I go out for a couple of hours.
Thirdly, sigelei doesn't seem to fire when it is half battery. I kind of figured that was so because of my wattage (vaping at 45-50 watts on a 75 watt sigelei). Once I lowered the watts it hit but not as satisfying. Is that normal for my sigelei not to hit while the battery is around half full (im an optimistic kind of guy lol) under 45 watts? If I get a better battery will it allow me to fire at that wattage or is it just a safety feature of the sigelei or does it have to do with the temperature control. I have never really adjusted the temperature on my sigelei and I wanna know when should I adjust it. I always thought I should adjust it when it gets hot but I guess it's the RDA that gets hot and not the mod.
Fourthly, I went to a vape shop and made an on the spot decision to buy a Kennedy for 25 bucks. I love that its a cloud chaser but doesn't sacrifice the flavor as I get plenty of it. Love the airflow, has a big well, and love the fact that I can drip it from the drip tip. Cons about it is that it is extremely hard to take off the top of the RDA (not sure what the correct term is: topcap, barrel?), does not have adjustable airflow (even tho it has great airflow, I like to switch it up every now and then), and lastly, you can not change the drip tip unless you order a piece, I'm guessing from China that would take weeks to ship). Is that the general consensus for the Kennedy or am I missing something?
Lastly, how do I select just a portion of the quote from a post that I want to reply so that I can be a little more organized in my responses?
It might be a problem if you have the atty locked in in terms of resistance and change to a radically different atty (I don't know if the Kanger locks at all, actually, so can't say if this could even BE a problem!)
Personally, I always use my mods in wattage mode, so can't speak too much to the subject.
For a few days, I don't see too much issue with that. I tend not to trust dime sized boards to do the charging for me and use my Xtar for that, but in a pinch? I'd do the same thing!
It's probably detecting that the battery simply isn't up to that load. Most mods will detect an overdraw (by the voltage of the battery sagging severely) and stop firing.
That can be symptomatic of a battery that isn't up to that level of stress, or an older battery that's giving up the ghost and not working so well any longer (the internal resistance has risen over time and is now high enough that firing at higher amperage causes a severe voltage drop).
In either case, it says, "Get a new battery" in no uncertain terms.
While the mod does get warm, the board should also have temperature protection (it'll shut down and get whiny about it if the temperature of the board goes too high). My eVic will display the actual board temperature if I jump through a few hoops, but most mods don't do that.
A battery that's specified for the amperage draw should do just fine in the Sig until it's pretty well-drained. At low amp drain, my eVic fires most of my batteries down to about 3.18 volts (really low). I'm not sure how it would perform at higher drain as I rarely step much past 5.5 watts.
Clueless. Try posting this in the RDA/RBA forum and I'm sure somebody can help, though!
In the quote /quote area, just delete what you don't want to quote out. In my case, I split it into pieces, putting [ quote ] (without the spaces) and [ /quote ] (without the spaces) around each section as I break it apart and answer it.
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