RX Chip Mods "No Atomizer" With Imperfect Connection?

[Vapomizer]

I am having a strange problem that is hard for me to understand and i hope that people with RX Chip Mods like the RX200, eViC VTC Mini, or the Cuboid can help..

I have a Kanger Subtank with what appears to be an erratic negative connection at the base, so the negative of the coil is barely connected to the mod (i hope that makes sense, if not please ask for a better explanation)

I put the tank on a Kanger Subbox, and it fires without a problem.

I put the tank on the new iStick 100W or the Cuboid and here is what is happening.

1- At first the tank makes a connection but read higher resistance than the coil installed
2- The coil resistance is 0.5 ohm but the iStick/Cuboid both with the RX chip inside reads the resistance as 0.7 ohm
3- Higher resistance reading indicate in my understand a less than perfect connection
4- Take a few hits and resistance rise to 0.72 Ohm, a couple more hits resistance rise to 0.74 Ohm, a couple more hits and resistance drops to 0.00 ohm and the message "No Atomizer" starts showing
5- Unscrew the tank from the iStick/Cuboid and back on the Kanger mod and it fires again.
6- Remove it and install it on the iStick/Cuboid and same thing, resistance rise and then "No Atomizer"

I am not sure what conclusions to make of that, does the RX chip cuts power when it detects unstable connection? like if the resistance is jumping around because of bad connection at the tank base?

What are your opinions or possible explanation of what is happening?

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

Have you tried to disassemble the subtank fully to see if the pin that connects to the pre made coil base to the 510 is somehow bound and not rising fully to make a solid connection?

Are they the round SSOCC coils or the square OCC coils? Ive heard people have had issues with the SSOCC coils working right in some of the older tanks and the coil not reading properly.

They do sell just the AFC on FT for fairly cheap. Maybe even sweet vape still carries them. It might be worth it to try replacing just this piece and see if you have better connectivity.
ETA*sweetvapes is out of them

On another note, is it the new TC100w iStick you have? Ive actually been interested in them since it can be used as a dual 18650 parallel mech or VW device, how do you like it? The firing bar seems comfortable.

ETA2*
The only reason I can see for the Kanger making a solid connection and the RX chipped mods not is the rigidity of the 510 pin. Some of the original subox's had stationary 510s and this may be pushing the connector further up against the coil base. Even if your kanger mod does have a self adjusting 510 it may be stiffer then the other, and thus still accomplishing the same thing.

 

[Vapomizer]

Have you tried to disassemble the subtank fully to see if the pin that connects to the pre made coil base to the 510 is somehow bound and not rising fully to make a solid connection?

Yeah i spent hours troubleshooting this, i disassembled the tank completely and removed the floating positive pin from the AFC base, left only with the metal shell, tested the Pin itself and it makes a connection, placed the AFC base on the mod and got a wire, connected the positive to the mod directly and touched the negative to the base, and it does not make a connection, the base itself is the culprit, it is made of two pieces, the top piece which you screw the coil head to and the bottom piece that screws on the mod, these two pieces are no longer making a connection together, the only way to fix this is to unscrew the top piece from the bottom piece and clean the connections from inside, but it is impossible to take apart without damaging it so i gave up on that fix.

Are they the round SSOCC coils or the square OCC coils? Ive heard people have had issues with the SSOCC coils working right in some of the older tanks and the coil not reading properly.

Tried both, the rounded SSOCC and the square VOCC ver.2 .. same problems with both, i even put a drop of solder on the SSOCC to make its base stick out a little, still same problem, later i found out that the problem is with the negative not the positive as explained above.

They do sell just the AFC on FT for fairly cheap. Maybe even sweet vape still carries them. It might be worth it to try replacing just this piece and see if you have better connectivity.
ETA*sweetvapes is out of them

Yes this would have been the easiest, less time consuming solution, but i have the latest Toptank Nano v.3 and the AFC base for it is not being sold separately anywhere, at least not in Europe.

On another note, is it the new TC100w iStick you have? Ive actually been interested in them since it can be used as a dual 18650 parallel mech or VW device, how do you like it? The firing bar seems comfortable.

This mod is a dream, i LOVE it, best mod i have held in my hand, came in a perfect condition, the fire button is its best part, very clicky, stable, takes just the right amount of force to click, the squeeze to vape technique is very enjoyable, batteries can be charged safely in the mod and they last forever, finish quality is top notch, bypass mode is very nice, it feels MUCH lighter than the Cuboid, fits great in pocket, everything about it is just right, today i returned the Cuboid back to the store without a moment of regret, the iStick TC100W is such a gem of a mod.

The only reason I can see for the Kanger making a solid connection and the RX chipped mods not is the rigidity of the 510 pin. Some of the original subox's had stationary 510s and this may be pushing the connector further up against the coil base. Even if your kanger mod does have a self adjusting 510 it may be stiffer then the other, and thus still accomplishing the same thing.

i returned the Tank to the store for replacement anyways, i think i am done with tanks, will stick with RTAs from now on ..

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

I'm about to buy the iStick TC100w based on yours and Twisted420s reviews, mostly for a mod with side squeeze firing mechanism to use as a dual parallel 18650 mech, and have the option to jump over to VW if I need to.
Which color did you get? I'm leaning towards white or grey.

Glad you found a mod that's working as it should, I've honestly never had a huge amount of success with the Kanger subtank series, though they were the best thing since sliced bread when they were released lol.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

On another note, if you're sticking to RDAs, the LokiLabs Odin V2 is available with a regular pin instead of the bottom feeding pin, huge juice well walls and a reduced chamber for awesome flavor. Best RDA I've used.

 

[Vapomizer]

Get the iStick you would not regret it, if an OCD guy like me is so fascinated with it then i think you would love it, it came in an iPhone-like condition and just looks very neat and really enjoyable to use.

I also contacted eleaf regarding its 100W output limit and they said the will release an update to increase that so i predict it will be upped to 120W, should be enough for most build types.

I was between silver and black and ended up getting the black, but all its colours look great on this design and finish quality, you can not go wrong with any color you decide to pick

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

Thanks, I'd like the grey if they're intending to release colored doors as an accessory.
I have some weird obsession with gun metal grey and blaze orange mixed together.

Otherwise I'll go with white, trying to find info on doors being released in the future right now.

 

[Vapomizer]

On another note, if you're sticking to RDAs, the LokiLabs Odin V2 is available with a regular pin instead of the bottom feeding pin, huge juice well walls and a reduced chamber for awesome flavor. Best RDA I've used.

It is RTAs that am after not drippers, just don't have the patience for them, Geekvape Griffin and UD Bellus looking good, not sure if there are better RTAs out there.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

The Griffin looks awesome, so does the Avocado if you're into Gennys at all.

Also the upcoming Goblin Mini V2 with top fill is going to be awesome. The GM has such great flavor and vapor production for being about the height of a quarter without the drip tip.

ETA* Never used the Bellus before, but UD has been on point since the first iGo lol. Only thing Ive gotten from UD I didn't like was the Goliath V1

 

[Vapomizer]

The Griffin looks awesome, so does the Avocado if you're into Gennys at all.

Also the upcoming Goblin Mini V2 with top fill is going to be awesome. The GM has such great flavor and vapor production for being about the height of a quarter without the drip tip.

I need to make a decision fast with what is currently available in the market coz the store is probably going to contact me next week asking what i want for a replacement to the Toptank and i should have something in mind by then.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

If you like building coils I think the Griffin is the best thing running right now, its the TFV4 mini of RTAs.

I would like an Avocado for single coil Clapton builds at home, and a Griffin for on the go or times when I'm craving more vapor production.

UD has a wire box right now that's got a good variety of wire types for under 15$ this side of the pond, you may want to see what kinda deal they have your way on them.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

http://www.gearbest.com/accessories...utm_medium=**********&utm_campaign=**********

 

[Vapomizer]

Only con with the Griffin is that it is not Vertical-friendly it looks like you need to force the vertical build on it, also having to screw the RBA base on it once built risks messing up your wicks, the UD Bellus has a better RBA insertions technique, where you just push it inside and then screw the base on top of it without having to rotate your rebuildable part inside

Problem with TFV4 is the poor SMOK quality control, same reason i passed on the R200 mod despite it looking pretty neat.

Will check the avocado and Aromamizer as well.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

I'm not saying it's the best (everyone will have a different opinion on what's best depending on needs and tastes). I still really like my Billow V2's. I have a Bellus too. I find myself splitting time between them (probably a touch more Billow than Bellus). I use mainly TC and don't build anything fancy when it comes to coils. If you are looking at building Claptons with 3.5mm coils, I think the Griffin is probably best (bigger build deck, but I don't have one though).

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Vapomizer]

http://www.gearbest.com/accessories...utm_medium=**********&utm_campaign=**********

Wow definitely getting that one

 

[Vapomizer]

Thank you guys, awesome suggestions you are making here, highly appreciated

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

I'm not saying it's the best (everyone will have a different opinion on what's best depending on needs and tastes). I still really like my Billow V2's. I have a Bellus too. I find myself splitting time between them (probably a touch more Billow than Bellus). I use mainly TC and don't build anything fancy when it comes to coils. If you are looking at building Claptons with 3.5mm coils, I think the Griffin is probably best (bigger build deck, but I don't have one though).

Cheers,
Steve

I really enjoy my Billow V2 as well, tastes just as good as the Goblin Mini with most builds.
Mines the 5ml, I'm guessing the Nano version has better flavor production.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

I really enjoy my Billow V2 as well, tastes just as good as the Goblin Mini with most builds.
Mines the 5ml, I'm guessing the Nano version has better flavor production.

I would think so as well. The things I really like about the Billow V2 is it just works great every time. Neither one of mine leak, you can get to the coils without having to drain the tank, great flavor (imo), built solid, and really like the fact it holds a solid 5ml.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

If you're interested in seeing how they look on mods, I just happen to have a picture.

From left to right: Billow V2 on a Hotcig DX200, Billow V2 on a Hcigar VT200, Bellus on a Volcano Lavabox. Note the drip-tips on the second two are not the ones that come with the attys. The first one is a factory tip.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit I'm using the Black Billow V2 on the VT200 as I'm typing this with some DIY Vanilla Custard

 

[Vapomizer]

If you're interested in seeing how they look on mods, I just happen to have a picture.

From left to right: Billow V2 on a Hotcig DX200, Billow V2 on a Hcigar VT200, Bellus on a Volcano Lavabox. Note the drip-tips on the second two are not the ones that come with the attys. The first one is a factory tip.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit I'm using the Black Billow V2 on the VT200 as I'm typing this with some DIY Vanilla Custard

Haha, that is one kick ass RTA ... heading to check some YouTube reviews, thanks

 

[Carmmond]

Just stepped up my system from an iStick 20W with an Aspire mini to the TC100W and a Crown tank.... Wow night and day! Running the 1.2 ohm on the Crown now till I read more about the TC this is all so new coming from a no brain setup. The vape is the best I've had yet but man even with the 1.2 ohm it's eating the juice! Used 12mg nic in the old setup but with all this vapor I'm going to have to go down to 6mg nic because I woke up this morning with a screaming headache. TC100W is a great mod.

 

[Vapomizer]

Also worth mentioning about the iStick is that it hits harder than the Cuboid, with the Subtank Stock atty i was doing 32W before getting burnt hits, with the iStick 25W is giving me the same results with huge vapor production, not sure if the parallel config is responsible for that.

Also batteries sit firmly inside and the covers are attached with very strong magnetics,

Can't wait for the update to see how awesome this device can get, just can't stop loving it

 

[Carmmond]

Didn't know of the bad mods from iStick after the 20W because I was not in the market but I'll tell you this TC100W is a great mod! Looks like I may have skipped the bad times

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

Awesome lol.
Ordered a white one from Vape Society Supply for 35.99

 

[Vapomizer]

Awesome lol.
Ordered a white one from Vape Society Supply for 35.99

Nice, welcome to the club, white is a brave choice of color, should look fantastic on black tanks

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

Nice, welcome to the club, white is a brave choice of color, should look fantastic on black tanks

That's what I figure. Gonna put a black Griffin on it.

 

[darkshaft]

Also worth mentioning about the iStick is that it hits harder than the Cuboid, with the Subtank Stock atty i was doing 32W before getting burnt hits, with the iStick 25W is giving me the same results with huge vapor production, not sure if the parallel config is responsible for that.

Also batteries sit firmly inside and the covers are attached with very strong magnetics,

Can't wait for the update to see how awesome this device can get, just can't stop loving it

This is weird; i think batteries in series should hit harder than batteries in parallel. Question is, does istick 100w TC has an accurate power chart? Cause previous isticks didnt.

 

[BadLuckAndTrouble]

This is weird; i think batteries in series should hit harder than batteries in parallel. Question is, does istick 100w TC has an accurate power chart? Cause previous isticks didnt.

Same chip as RX200 and VaporFlask I think.

I think parallel may have reduced battery sag and you feel the power quicker.

When a Reg device is run in series its just to achieve higher watt output.
On a mech 8.4v definitely hits harder.

 

[Vapomizer]

This is weird; i think batteries in series should hit harder than batteries in parallel. Question is, does istick 100w TC has an accurate power chart? Cause previous isticks didnt.

Yes it has a very accurate power chart, there is a german guy who has a video on YouTube testing that and the efficiency of the controller ranges from 99% at best and 90% at worst depending on coil resistance and dialed power settings, also this particular iStick has the RX chip so it is nothing like the previous ones.

here is a link to the video if you are interested, it is in German but you can easily understand the test results. (You can find the power chart at time 28:30)

Same chip as RX200 and VaporFlask I think.

I think parallel may have reduced battery sag and you feel the power quicker.

When a Reg device is run in series its just to achieve higher watt output.
On a mech 8.4v definitely hits harder.

This is exactly what happens it hits faster and harder, with my SS316 build i was getting a slight delay with the Cuboid, not the case with the iStick, it fires instantly

 

[darkshaft]

Yes it has a very accurate power chart, there is a german guy who has a video on YouTube testing that and the efficiency of the controller ranges from 99% at best and 90% at worst depending on coil resistance and dialed power settings, also this particular iStick has the RX chip so it is nothing like the previous ones.

here is a link to the video if you are interested, it is in German but you can easily understand the test results. (You can find the power chart at time 28:30)

This is exactly what happens it hits faster and harder, with my SS316 build i was getting a slight delay with the Cuboid, not the case with the iStick, it fires instantly

Today i made up my mind and bought cuboid, the thing is, my friend also has a cuboif but with old beautiful grey skin, mine in black, what's weird that mine has a bright white screen, while his is tinged green. So an guessing they made a v2 or something, what's yours? Also how do you find cuboid compared to istick in power mode, any difference?

Am currently rocking a 0.38 ohm dual clapton wire, at 60w and the bape is amazing coming from istick 50w, which i have been using it for a year.

 

[darkshaft]

Also my cuboid is lighter in weight than his cuboid.

 

[Vapomizer]

They could have made a silent revision to fix some issues or it could just be poor quality control that not all samples are exactly the same,

I totally hated my Cuboid and returned it back to the store, i had the tinged green screen on mine not the bright white and it was heavy as a rock, felt much heavier than the iStick.

Best way to know if they made a silent revision is to check the button, is the button a little loose, wiggly and rattles?

 

[Vapomizer]

Also download the firmware update file, open it and connect the Cuboid to your computer and check what hardware version it reads, mine was version 1.00 if they made a revision they should up the hardware version number, check those things and report back

 

[darkshaft]

Nope, no rattle, mine came V3.0 out of the box, and updated it to v 3.01, anything else to look iut for? Was there a delayed firing?

 

[darkshaft]

Ah sorry didnt know that my hardware had a number, ok will check that out

 

[darkshaft]

So just checked my Hardware version, mine is V 1.01

 

[Vapomizer]

So just checked my Hardware version, mine is V 1.01

Wow, very nice discovery, so they actually listened and made a revision, when you place your thumb on the fire button, wiggle it up and down a little does it not even move in place? Also does the click sound of your button changes depending on where you place the pressure when clicking? For example if you click it from bottom vs. Pushing exactly on the middle vs. Pushing on the top, does it sounds the same in all cases on click and on release?

Just trying to find out if they revised the button click mechanism because it was one of my biggest annoyances.

 

[darkshaft]

The

Wow, very nice discovery, so they actually listened and made a revision, when you place your thumb on the fire button, wiggle it up and down a little does it not even move in place? Also does the click sound of your button changes depending on where you place the pressure when clicking? For example if you click it from bottom vs. Pushing exactly on the middle vs. Pushing on the top, does it sounds the same in all cases on click and on release?

Just trying to find out if they revised the button click mechanism because it was one of my biggest annoyances.

The button does have a very minimal wiggle, but no rattle, and button has same click all over it, and to make things even better i bought a high quality cover, so i have no issue with buttons at all, with or without cover, but cover makes things more sturdy, what else annoyed you?

 

[Vapomizer]

The


The button does have a very minimal wiggle, but no rattle, and button has same click all over it, and to make things even better i bought a high quality cover, so i have no issue with buttons at all, with or without cover, but cover makes things more sturdy, what else annoyed you?

It came in its sealed box looking like it was used before scratched and dirty, screen was not perfectly vertical and i was getting erratic 510 behavior

I think i will buy another Cuboid in a month or two once they finish revising it and fixing all the early shit and probably increase the 25A output limit

 

[darkshaft]

It came in its sealed box looking like it was used before scratched and dirty, screen was not perfectly vertical and i was getting erratic 510 behavior

I think i will buy another Cuboid in a month or two once they finish revising it and fixing all the early shit and probably increase the 25A output limit

Well mine came out perfectly clean, although 510 did something weird, i have a dual clapton wire at first it read it as 0.42 ohms, then i took it off and put it back again and read it 0.40 ohms, did same thing then read it 0.41 ohms, did it again and read it 0.38 ohms, and repeated same process but it stayed 0.38 ohms, notsure if that has to do with temperature of coils or what although am using a kanthal clapton, any ideas?

Doubt they will increase 25 amp limit, safety issues.

 

[Vapomizer]

Well mine came out perfectly clean, although 510 did something weird, i have a dual clapton wire at first it read it as 0.42 ohms, then i took it off and put it back again and read it 0.40 ohms, did same thing then read it 0.41 ohms, did it again and read it 0.38 ohms, and repeated same process but it stayed 0.38 ohms, notsure if that has to do with temperature of coils or what although am using a kanthal clapton, any ideas?

Doubt they will increase 25 amp limit, safety issues.

Was doing exactly the same thing with me, starts reading high and then gets lower and lower as tank sits there over time, unscrew the tank and screw it back on and same shit again, start reading higher then gets lower and lower with time,

I think i know what is going on, the spring on the positive pin on the 510 is a very soft spring, instead of a tough one and the pin itself is tightly fit, so it is hard to push down and harder for the spring to push it back up, so at first when you just screw the tank it does not make a rock solid connection, instead the connection is pretty loose and shallow and hence the high resistance reading, as you use it with it getting warm and with time and movement the spring is able to push the pin up a little making a better connection and hence the lower resistance.

In my case the 510 was so messed up i was getting atomizer short error when in fact there was none,

This gets worse if you use tanks with rubber supported floating positive pin like the Subtank, makes connection horrible and resistance jumps around all the time.

 

[darkshaft]

Was doing exactly the same thing with me, starts reading high and then gets lower and lower as tank sits there over time, unscrew the tank and screw it back on and same shit again, start reading higher then gets lower and lower with time,

I think i know what is going on, the spring on the positive pin on the 510 is a very soft spring, instead of a tough one and the pin itself is tightly fit, so it is hard to push down and harder for the spring to push it back up, so at first when you just screw the tank it does not make a rock solid connection, instead the connection is pretty loose and shallow and hence the high resistance reading, as you use it with it getting warm and with time and movement the spring is able to push the pin up a little making a better connection and hence the lower resistance.

In my case the 510 was so messed up i was getting atomizer short error when in fact there was none,

This gets worse if you use tanks with rubber supported floating positive pin like the Subtank, makes connection horrible and resistance jumps around all the time.

Oh that did happen to me when i tried zephyrus using 0.3 stock coil, it said atomizer short, i had to unscrew tank then screw it back again until it read the ohms, currently it's reading the ohms perfectly. Am satisfied for now hopefully nothing new will show up. These companies really do need to do a better more innovative job with 510 connection.

 

[Vapomizer]

Oh that did happen to me when i tried zephyrus using 0.3 stock coil, it said atomizer short, i had to unscrew tank then screw it back again until it read the ohms, currently it's reading the ohms perfectly. Am satisfied for now hopefully nothing new will show up. These companies really do need to do a better more innovative job with 510 connection.

So here you go, now you know why i got rid of the Cuboid and got the iStick instead, had so many reasons to hate that freaking mod.

 

[Nev_NYC]

Just hopped over here to see if anyone else is having Cuboid issues. I see a lot of the same I'm having. 510/ohm reading issues, yes. Scratched up screen out of the box, yes. My BIGGEST problem with it is the delay in the fire button. It's very short but still noticeable especially when using a clapton coil which already has a ramp up time. All in all, I'm trying to get past all these issues just because of the size. Dual regulated 18650 mod at this size is unheard of. Anyone know if a firmware update is available to at least fix the delay?

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Just hopped over here to see if anyone else is having Cuboid issues. I see a lot of the same I'm having. 510/ohm reading issues, yes. Scratched up screen out of the box, yes. My BIGGEST problem with it is the delay in the fire button. It's very short but still noticeable especially when using a clapton coil which already has a ramp up time. All in all, I'm trying to get past all these issues just because of the size. Dual regulated 18650 mod at this size is unheard of. Anyone know if a firmware update is available to at least fix the delay?

First off I don't own that mod (I've only been using DNA200 chipped mods for awhile now). I just looked at Joyetech''s website and they have a 3.10 upgrade that raises it to 200 watts. Like I said, I don't own it, so I haven't tried it. Here's the link if you are interested.

PS I don't know what firmware version you have because you didn't mention it in your post. You may already have that.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[darkshaft]

Just hopped over here to see if anyone else is having Cuboid issues. I see a lot of the same I'm having. 510/ohm reading issues, yes. Scratched up screen out of the box, yes. My BIGGEST problem with it is the delay in the fire button. It's very short but still noticeable especially when using a clapton coil which already has a ramp up time. All in all, I'm trying to get past all these issues just because of the size. Dual regulated 18650 mod at this size is unheard of. Anyone know if a firmware update is available to at least fix the delay?

I do have dual clapton coil, but there is no fire delay, just clapton ramp up time, i love this mod, but wish they did a better job with 510 connection.

 

[darkshaft]

So here you go, now you know why i got rid of the Cuboid and got the iStick instead, had so many reasons to hate that freaking mod.

To tell you the truth my istick 50w did the same thing, sometimes my ohm went up from 0.5 ohm to 0.6 ohm or 0.7 ohm, i just unscrew then screw back tank and it reads it right again; not sure if it's o ring issue or what, also i do have subtank mini i put it on the mod and read it exactly 0.37 ohm which is accurate reading. I guess time will tell if they improved 510 connection. But for now am satisfied as long as ohms are not jumping all over the place with tank on

 

[Vapomizer]

To tell you the truth my istick 50w did the same thing, sometimes my ohm went up from 0.5 ohm to 0.6 ohm or 0.7 ohm, i just unscrew then screw back tank and it reads it right again; not sure if it's o ring issue or what, also i do have subtank mini i put it on the mod and read it exactly 0.37 ohm which is accurate reading. I guess time will tell if they improved 510 connection. But for now am satisfied as long as ohms are not jumping all over the place with tank on

I never even considered an iStick before that last one, and never thought that i would own one one day, but with the bunch of problems i was having with the Cuboid and after researching a bunch of mods i felt that i liked the iStick the most, with its RX chip and squeeze to fire mechanism, i believe its 510 has the same design and same shit as the Cuboie, but is less problematic due to the positive pin having more surface area, being hex shaped vs. Square shaped as in the Cuboid, have not got the Atomizer Short problem with the iStick so far, but like you said time will tell.

Worst case scenario is to take apart the sucker and replace the 510 with a higher quality one, so the problem is at least somewhat solvable

 

[darkshaft]

Hope that 510 us easily replaced