Sigeli 150 W

[MVP]

So when I went to a local vape shop and bought a sigeli 150 W and they recommended the best batteries I could get for it where the Samsung INR 18650-30Q: 15 A – 3,000 mAh

Now I'm running .27 ohms currently with these 15 A batteries, so according to steam engine I don't want to go above 60 watts but the vape shop said I can crank it all the way up to 150 watts. Which one is true?

Also I'm looking at getting a second pair of batteries any recommendations?

Also do y'all have any recommendations on how I can get the most out of this sigeli. From looking a lot there's so many options it's a bit overwhelming, so I'm looking for any ideas.

They also sold me the atty 3 cube, which I love. And sold me the blitz rta tank which they said was to be the best tank for a newbie. After trying to put coils in the postless rta, I'm starting to not trust this vape shop anymore cause it was damn hard to put coils in it and the build deck seems to limit my options of building since it's so small.

Sorry for the long ass post. Haha




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[ej1024]

Samsung
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Sony


Vape On

 

[DED420]

So when I went to a local vape shop and bought a sigeli 150 W and they recommended the best batteries I could get for it where the Samsung INR 18650-30Q: 15 A – 3,000 mAh
Now I'm running .27 ohms currently with these 15 A batteries, so according to steam engine I don't want to go above 60 watts but the vape shop said I can crank it all the way up to 150 watts. Which one is true?
Also I'm looking at getting a second pair of batteries any recommendations?
Also do y'all have any recommendations on how I can get the most out of this sigeli. From looking a lot there's so many options it's a bit overwhelming, so I'm looking for any ideas.
They also sold me the atty 3 cube, which I love. And sold me the blitz rta tank which they said was to be the best tank for a newbie. After trying to put coils in the postless rta, I'm starting to not trust this vape shop anymore cause it was damn hard to put coils in it and the build deck seems to limit my options of building

The Mod is a Regulated mod, meaning that it takes care of pretty much everything. Although the batteries say 15A, they can safely do 20A (Samsung tends to Underrate their cells, instead of overrate them like most do, and Mooch confirmed this). Also coupled with the fact the mod is Regulated, there's not too much concern there.

Regulated mods have safeties and protections to prevent you from abusing your batteries. So in other words, If the build is within the mods firing range, and the mod will fire, then you're god to go. A Regulated mod won't fire if the batteries can't produce the power necessary to achieve the set Wattage, or if the build is to low for the mod to handle (a 0.08ohm coil won't fire on a Regulated mod rated to 0.1ohm, etc). So yes, you could run that mod at 150W with those cells, but the drawback is they won't last very long. For Example: I have a 0.1ohm build on my Sig 150W TC, and I run it at 90W. Once the batteries reach about 50%, the mod will no longer fire, because the cells can't provide the necessary Amps/Volts to achieve the set Wattage. So using those 15A cells in a Regulated mod is in no way unsafe, just not very efficient. Mech Mods are an entirely different story.

As for battery recommendations, Samsung 25r series are quality 20A 2500mAh cells capable of 25A+ and can handle quite a bit of abuse (compared to other cells), and LG HG2 are also quality 20A cells, but with 3000mAh (though not quite as forgiving as 25r, these run hotter under heavy use). Both of these cells are excellent for Regulated mods.

As for the shop owners selling you the Blitz RTA, that's probably from naivety (giving them the benefit of the doubt this time, because I'm a nice guy). The Pi² RDA became popular due to it's postless deck design, making it incredibly easy to install a large variety of coils in it. Trying to ride off the popularity, came the Hannya RDA from Blitz, which although had good intentions, was implemented very poorly (lead-holes too close together, making for a smaller build area). Then RTA's became immensely popular, and Blitz Enterprises released an RTA version of their Hannya. Again, although with good intentions, it was just poorly implemented. So long story short, The Blitz RTA is supposed to be an incredibly easy RTA to build on, which would be the best for beginners, but it was just poorly made, so unfortunately it just looks easy to build on. Alot of vape shop employees are actually rather unknowledgeable about the products they sell (terribly unfortunate for those just starting out, getting mis-informed about products and safety), or are more-or-less forced by the owners to push products on people. It's a sad reality of the industry, and one that's not likely to change anytime soon.

Hopefully I answered your questions, feel free to ask more if you need clarification

 

[MVP]

The Mod is a Regulated mod, meaning that it takes care of pretty much everything. Although the batteries say 15A, they can safely do 20A (Samsung tends to Underrate their cells, instead of overrate them like most do, and Mooch confirmed this). Also coupled with the fact the mod is Regulated, there's not too much concern there.

Thanks for the clarification of this! and Ya, I don't plan on trying out any mech mods till I am fairly confident in the understanding of vaping and builds.

As for battery recommendations, Samsung 25r series are quality 20A 2500mAh cells capable of 25A+ and can handle quite a bit of abuse (compared to other cells), and LG HG2 are also quality 20A cells, but with 3000mAh (though not quite as forgiving as 25r, these run hotter under heavy use). Both of these cells are excellent for Regulated mods.

I checked out the Samsung 25r Series, and they seemed to be pretty good quality, and went ahead and ordered a couple.

So long story short, The Blitz RTA is supposed to be an incredibly easy RTA to build on, which would be the best for beginners, but it was just poorly made, so unfortunately it just looks easy to build on. Alot of vape shop employees are actually rather unknowledgeable about the products they sell (terribly unfortunate for those just starting out, getting mis-informed about products and safety), or are more-or-less forced by the owners to push products on people. It's a sad reality of the industry, and one that's not likely to change anytime soon.

Ya, after messing around with it for hours, it's not that hard to build in anymore. However, since the deck is small I'm not sure what I am limited to on my builds. But, I will make a seperate post with my current build and questions I have about it later.

Thanks for the advice and help! I'm really starting to like the community of VU.

 

[DED420]

No problemo, we're always glad to help, that's what we're here for

 

[BoomStick]

Build resistance has absolutely nothing to do with battery current in a variable wattage mod. The battery voltage being supplied to the chip and the watt setting determine battery current. For example, a sig 150 uses two 18650's in series so you average 7.4v input and let's say you set it to 100w. 100/7.4=13.5 So at 100w you pull around 15 amps regardless of build. I rounded up to compensate for chip inefficiency. These are ballpark figures because actual chip efficiency and actual battery voltage under load would be needed to get accurate numbers, but I think you'll get the picture.

 

[raymo2u]

I personally would consider running some Samsung 30Q batteries or LG HG2's as they are 15A CD 3000mah and they would last a decent amount of runtime and give you everything you would want for amperage as the regulated mod will regulate the needed amount of draw.

 

[BigNasty]

Liionwholesale is the battery place you are seeking.