Am i ready to go Advanced ? ( Move to Mech )

[Exaco]

Hey guys, i've been vaping for a week or so, gained some knowledge about the the juice differences, coils etc..

So i've just ordered Noisy Cricket with Indestructible RDA Dripper from GearBest, probably clones not sure. Also took an intelli charger, clapton prebuild coils with some cotton, ohm tester and 2 VCT4 batteries which has suspicious price ( 7$ for both, meanwhile all other stores sells for like 11$/piece ).

For now thats pretty much all what i know to be safe and some essentials:

- I should not go below 0.3ohm.
- Differences between atomizers and mods.
- How to wick, build custom coils
- General Battery Safety ( wear = replace, use case's for replacement ones, not to over-drain etc. )
- 510 Connector must have protruding pin or however its called.
- Double Checking the pin/button if it's not stuck/has juice in it everyday or every few days.
- Cleaning the Mod.
- *Gonna learn about Ohm's Law.


Anything else i should know before i potentially explode my face ?
For example:

Does Clones and Authentic has difference in safety ? ( e.g. The metal used in Clones is more likely to short compared to authentic ).

 

[Neunerball]

Hey guys, i've been vaping for a week or so, gained some knowledge about the the juice differences, coils etc..

So i've just ordered Noisy Cricket with Indestructible RDA Dripper from GearBest, probably clones not sure. Also took an intelli charger, clapton prebuild coils with some cotton, ohm tester and 2 VCT4 batteries which has suspicious price ( 7$ for both, meanwhile all other stores sells for like 11$/piece ).

For now thats pretty much all what i know to be safe and some essentials:

- I should not go below 0.3ohm.
- Differences between atomizers and mods.
- How to wick, build custom coils
- General Battery Safety ( wear = replace, use case's for replacement ones, not to over-drain etc. )
- 510 Connector must have protruding pin or however its called.
- Double Checking the pin/button if it's not stuck/has juice in it everyday or every few days.
- Cleaning the Mod.
- *Gonna learn about Ohm's Law.


Anything else i should know before i potentially explode my face ?
For example:

Does Clones and Authentic has difference in safety ? ( e.g. The metal used in Clones is more likely to short compared to authentic ).

Welcome to VU!

To be honest, for my personal vaping experience, even a 0.7 Ohm dual coil build is almost too hot.

Yes, with the NC, as with any hybrid mod, you need to make sure, the 510 pin of the atomizer does protrude the threading enough, in order to not cause a short. Otherwise, BOOM! (See following video.)

Regarding building coils, and wicking, there are plenty of video tutorials on the tube.

Re-wrap any damaged wrap on a battery. Replace the insulator on the positive pole of the battery if needed (Information on that, can be found in the sub forum "battery junkies").

Yes, the most important rule, know Ohm's law!

 

[JERUS]

Hey guys, i've been vaping for a week or so, gained some knowledge about the the juice differences, coils etc..

So i've just ordered Noisy Cricket with Indestructible RDA Dripper from GearBest, probably clones not sure. Also took an intelli charger, clapton prebuild coils with some cotton, ohm tester and 2 VCT4 batteries which has suspicious price ( 7$ for both, meanwhile all other stores sells for like 11$/piece ).

For now thats pretty much all what i know to be safe and some essentials:

- I should not go below 0.3ohm.
- Differences between atomizers and mods.
- How to wick, build custom coils
- General Battery Safety ( wear = replace, use case's for replacement ones, not to over-drain etc. )
- 510 Connector must have protruding pin or however its called.
- Double Checking the pin/button if it's not stuck/has juice in it everyday or every few days.
- Cleaning the Mod.
- *Gonna learn about Ohm's Law.


Anything else i should know before i potentially explode my face ?
For example:

Does Clones and Authentic has difference in safety ? ( e.g. The metal used in Clones is more likely to short compared to authentic ).

Clone vs Authentic, no real difference in safety, a clone might be more likely to have some burrs or something that need cleaning up, but shouldn't be an issue.

Like Neuner said you're going with a hybrid connection you need a protruding pin, but not just that with your NC you're going to have a piece that has the 510 threading in it. Take that out and screw it onto your atty, then check to make sure it's sticking out of the bottom enough. I have some atty's I can use on the NC and some I can't. So it needs to protrude and it needs to be a long enough threading to actually stick out of that connector piece.

Do learn Ohm's law. 4.2v per battery for safety, 3.7v per battery for wattage expectations. So .3Ω for safety you need 8.4v/.3Ω=28amps, and for wattage 7.4v/3Ω=24.7 *7.4v=182watts, that's a lot of power! I'd really recommend at least to start that you stay closer to .5Ω, you might think that's high but that's still going to be ~110watts more than enough to get a nice vape with the right build. The 182w you're going to be dripping every hit or two even with the Scottish Roll style of wicking that usually lasts quite a while.

Also, be ready for a good long wait with Gearbest, they're pretty slow but also with the batteries (which I was under the impression they simply weren't going to be selling any more) they made some changes with shipping a couple months back that will likely hold them up for a while. I'd stick to US sellers and devoted battery companies like Liionwholesale or illumn.

 

[nightshard]

You can save on everything else, but not batteries.
Those suspicious batteries for 7$ both, are most likely fakes.
Spend a bit more and get proper authentic batteries.
While yr at it get another pair so that you can use two batteries in the mod while the other pair is charging.

 

[r055co]

Hey guys, i've been vaping for a week or so, gained some knowledge about the the juice differences, coils etc..

So i've just ordered Noisy Cricket with Indestructible RDA Dripper from GearBest, probably clones not sure. Also took an intelli charger, clapton prebuild coils with some cotton, ohm tester and 2 VCT4 batteries which has suspicious price ( 7$ for both, meanwhile all other stores sells for like 11$/piece ).

For now thats pretty much all what i know to be safe and some essentials:

- I should not go below 0.3ohm.
- Differences between atomizers and mods.
- How to wick, build custom coils
- General Battery Safety ( wear = replace, use case's for replacement ones, not to over-drain etc. )
- 510 Connector must have protruding pin or however its called.
- Double Checking the pin/button if it's not stuck/has juice in it everyday or every few days.
- Cleaning the Mod.
- *Gonna learn about Ohm's Law.


Anything else i should know before i potentially explode my face ?
For example:

Does Clones and Authentic has difference in safety ? ( e.g. The metal used in Clones is more likely to short compared to authentic ).

The NC I don't recommend as a first Mech due to it being not only a series mod but the hybrid style deck. The hybrid you really need to pay attention to insure the 510 extends far enough plus you need to insure it doesn't screw down when screwing the deck down on top of the battery. But you already have it so I recommend getting the Fat Daddy upgrade kit. That will give you a 510 pin and you aren't limited to devices that have an extended 510.

But I have to give you my lecture, here it goes -

1. Ohm's law, http://www.steam-engine.org/ makes it easy and there's even an app on it for Android
2. Batteries, fucking batteries, take good care of your batteries and know them!!!!!!!!
a. Avoid shit batteries like eFest who rewrap rejects with grossly inflated amp ratings. Stick with authentic LG, Sony or Samsung from reputable (not ebay or amazon) sources, great places to get authentic are from
http://liionwholesale.com/
https://www.imrbatteries.com/
b. Stick well within Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) Not the "pulse"
c. Keep up to date with what Mooch tests and rates batteries, follow his posts on Facebook and his Blog
d. In Mod's with multiple batteries, marry them.
e. Get some battery wraps, they're cheap and easy to re-wrap batteries. Any nicks, tears or what ever don't be stupid and just re-wrap.
3. Don't build stupid low a good builder can chuck and get awesome dense vape from a good build. It's simple, with 20 CDR Amp batteries -
a. Single battery mod's you're fine with .2 ohms on up
b. Dual Parallel you're fine with .15 on up. Parallel you take the full CDR of one battery and you can add 1/2 the amp rating of the next battery
c. Series you double the voltage but you share the amp. So a series you build high, no lower that .4 ohms
4. Make sure you don't have any shorts. For an extra caution any new build I vape on a regulated mod for a few drips or with a tank about a 1/4 tank. This is to insure nothing wonky with my build or any shorts.
5. Careful if it's not in your hand, if it doesn't have a lock on the button insure nothing is in your pocket and it's loose. Don't want to put it in your front jeans pocket and blow your dick off ya know

 

[r055co]

You can save on everything else, but not batteries.
Those suspicious batteries for 7$ both, are most likely fakes.
Spend a bit more and get proper authentic batteries.
While yr at it get another pair so that you can use two batteries in the mod while the other pair is charging.

Liion Wholesale and IMR Batteries both sell for around that price, they are not only reputable but work with Mooch.

No reason IMO to take the chance of buying fakes from, eBay, Amazon or any other sketchy sources. Hell B&M's are even questionable these days

 

[nightshard]

Liion Wholesale and IMR Batteries both sell for around that price, they are not only reputable but work with Mooch.

No reason IMO to take the chance of buying fakes from, eBay, Amazon or any other sketchy sources. Hell B&M's are even questionable these days

Liion no longer carry VTC4s and their prices are around 6-7$ per battery (unless it's an unpopular model) and that's a reasonable price.
But he bought a pair for that price.

 

[r055co]

Liion no longer carry VTC4s and their prices are around 6-7$ per battery (unless it's an unpopular model) and that's a reasonable price.
But he bought a pair for that price.

But the key is "where" did he get them from, eBay, Amazon?

Personally I'd just recommend 25R's, even though I have a good stock of VTC4's. IMO the better battery life of the 25R's isn't worth the slight extra "umph" the VTC4's give.

 

[nightshard]

He didn't say where but I suspect it's ebay and sorts.

Personally I haven't been using VTCs for a while now, I'm just fine with Samsung 25Rs 20Rs and 30Qs

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

Asking for advise after you bought something isn't a sign of knowing what you are doing

 

[BoomStick]

Bought a series, hybrid mech after a week of vaping? Good luck.

 

[Synphul]

I'm no expert on mech mods by any means but when it comes to batteries it pays to be safe. Batteries that much cheaper than everyone else retails for are suspect for being fakes or some sort of low grade rewraps. At most what do you save? $7 total for the questionable ones or $22 for the others is only $15 difference. Not sure where you're located so prices may be different, going rate in the u.s. for samsung 25r's from what I've seen is around $6-7 per battery. You could almost buy 2 sets for the cost of a set of vtc4's at $11 each.

Even going by the prices you mentioned for the batteries you mentioned, $15 is cheap for piece of mind. Sure is a lot cheaper than a medical bill. I avoided the vtc4's just because of all the issues with fakes being so prevalent. Either way, $7 extra, $15 extra - I can't even walk into a dr's office for a basic checkup for less than $50-60 much less an emergency room visit. Safety over performance any day in my opinion, be safe!

 

[r055co]

Asking for advise after you bought something isn't a sign of knowing what you are doing

Bought a series, hybrid mech after a week of vaping? Good luck.

But yah need to give him credit for coming here to ask questions. Can't tell you how many times I've seen first time Vapers buy the NC and just wing it. That and the same goes for people who have no idea what the fuck they're doing with Mech's to those who have B&M's build for them.................... People like them end up on the news .............

So what is done is done, let's give him some help, pass on some knowledge since he had enough sense to come here to ask for help.

 

[BoomStick]

Ok, here you go.

You bought a very advanced piece of gear that has the potential to burn your house down. As you have no idea what you're doing, pay attention to the advice you're given so that doesn't happen.

That's as helpful as I'm willing to be on this one.

 

[PaulS]

At the very least you should get the Noisy Cricket upgrade button and 510 connector from fatdaddyvapes.com

http://sur.ly/o/fatdaddyvapes.com/AA000014

I bought two for my both my Crickets and they make a difference. Much safer and still a great hit off the series mod. Crickets are made cheaply. The upgrade really helps. I use my Cricket as my ADV so I want it safe and reliable. I've had batteries spark on me and it is not fun at all.

Starting with a rather poorly made hybrid series is risk inherent. Reduce those risks by studying up and get that upgrade.

 

[scarecrowjenkins]

This should help some:

Some pretty good advice you've gotten here. The Fat Daddy Vapes upgrade kit is not a bad idea at all either.
I've been vaping the Noisy Cricket every day since October and can offer up a little advice of my own.
~When i build for the Cricket i always do my install/dry firing on a regulated box first. There's a couple reasons. Mostly its for safety. If you have a short in your build and you're firing it at 8-ish volts then the party's over. Also, it's REALLY easy to hit the fire button while adjusting your coils. I literally vaporized a set of Aliens by hitting that switch with the screwdriver still in the coils. The struggle is real. And the last reason is convenience-it saves the trouble of messing with a separate ohm reader.
~Go to kidneypuncher.com and buy a bunch of extra battery wraps. You will eventually need them and they're like 10¢ a piece. Your batteries MUST be in perfect shape at all times. Every accident that you could have will happen with twice the drama and horror on a series mod. So safety is key.
If you can't get a good vape above .4Ω, DON'T just go lower, find a better build. Either myself, or Chef have a lot of experience building for the NC, and we both sell em. Do NOT let any vape shop employee tell you it's ok to run a low build!!!!! I had a guy come in with a .14Ω build that another shop put in his atty. It's a goddamn christmas miracle that he had both hands when he came in. Stay within the limits of safety and reason.
~And lastly-enjoy the damn thing!! I do agree with the crowd here that its not the best mod for a new vaper, but you bought it so i may as well pass on what i know. I would seriously consider the upgrade kit-it takes a HUGE safety element out of the equation without changing the way it vapes. Also-personally i would not put any type of clone on that box. If you have a bad insulator or a wonky 510 pin, or a wiggly post you could fuck your day up royally. I would look into whether or not your atty is the real deal while you wait for it. Hope this helps-cheers!

 

[PaulS]

Chef actually made a few coils for one of my Crickets on an Aeronaut. It comes in at .85 - .9 ohms. Now for me that is a little weak but my other Cricket has a PhenotypeL at .44 ohms. I like it much better. Bear in mind I used the Crickets without the upgrades for some time. When I got a spark off my second Cricket (I clean these guys regularly but...) I immediately ordered the upgrades and stopped using it until it arrived. Have had zero issues since. I lost two batteries - once a mod sparks change those batteries out - don't take chances on a series mod - clean all your contacts and recheck your build on a regulated device. I think the problem was with the button spring and now I have the upgraded button with magnets - much better and smoother threads as well.

I have five series mods. I'm an experienced vapor and yet the Cricket almost went poof on me. Everyone loves their Crickets - me too - but they are not VCP piglets or Underground mods. They are not the best quality - hence the price. Please be careful and err on the side of caution always.

 

[Exaco]

Thanks guys, that's tons of info to process, will be extremely useful before launching the Noisy Cricket with Indestructible RDA.

I've bought those batteries from GearBest, from review pictures seems like its authentic based on looks, even its most likely a clones cause its located in china, but still after i get it shipped i will try to replace asap with 100% authentic ones, for example ordering from Sony itself via amazon:
http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_193094.html

Also will look forward for the upgrade kit, but meanwhile thinking maybe will remove the fire button or batteries before i go to sleep or leaving the mod somewhere till i will learn everything 100%. As long as it wont explode and the atty wont fly through my teeth and throat like a bullet it should be ok, the fire burst is not that scary, should handle it quickly ( not much to damage around in most cases ).

Thats the whole buy list ( RDA had discount, original price 49$ - hopefully not marketing trick to sell clone as original ):

P.S. Thats first time i'm trying to order from this site, the prices were so low that i didn't resisted to not to order from here. Especially when i can get a refund if something goes wrong, also all the same stuff on amazon would cost me like 160$.

Bought a series, hybrid mech after a week of vaping? Good luck.

Well, using regulated mods for lifetime wont make me an advanced user too. There must be a first steps done to become an experienced vaper. Even im vaping for a week+ does not mean im total newbie, because also watched alot of informative videos in the same time and weeks before i got my first mod what most beginners wont do, so even some of my friends who vapes for months asks me to help with vaping tech etc, because they basically has no time to do their research and learn new things about vaping everyday.

Tbh at first i was a bit scared of even thinking to use the mech mod, but after the research and learning all the stuff it does not sound that scary anymore, but its still risky, even for an expert.

 

[BoomStick]

Don't buy batteries from eBay, Amazon or any third party site or any Chinese vendor.
And consider a single battery tube mech. Certainly keep the cricket, but a tube would be better to start with and any mech user should have one anyway.

 

[r055co]

At the very least you should get the Noisy Cricket upgrade button and 510 connector from fatdaddyvapes.com

http://sur.ly/o/fatdaddyvapes.com/AA000014

I bought two for my both my Crickets and they make a difference. Much safer and still a great hit off the series mod. Crickets are made cheaply. The upgrade really helps. I use my Cricket as my ADV so I want it safe and reliable. I've had batteries spark on me and it is not fun at all.

Starting with a rather poorly made hybrid series is risk inherent. Reduce those risks by studying up and get that upgrade.

Yep I bought 2 myself for both of my Crickets, love the 510 deck. It is well made and now I'm not limited to nor have to worry that the 510 pins are extended enough. Plus a major bonus is the copper tube they include. Very nice tube that I can use as a single 18650 mod. I've been actually using it even more than my NC

Sent from my Android Tablet w/Tapatalk

 

[JERUS]

Yep I bought 2 myself for both of my Crickets, love the 510 deck. It is well made and now I'm not limited to nor have to worry that the 510 pins are extended enough. Plus a major bonus is the copper tube they include. Very nice tube that I can use as a single 18650 mod. I've been actually using it even more than my NC

Sent from my Android Tablet w/Tapatalk

Not more than my NC, but I've been giving that little tube plenty of work as well. I think I like the NC's button better than the magnetic one though, but I have one of the newer versions of the NC (button has knurling which as I understand it wasn't on the original release).

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

But yah need to give him credit for coming here to ask questions. Can't tell you how many times I've seen first time Vapers buy the NC and just wing it. That and the same goes for people who have no idea what the fuck they're doing with Mech's to those who have B&M's build for them.................... People like them end up on the news .............

So what is done is done, let's give him some help, pass on some knowledge since he had enough sense to come here to ask for help.

Knock yourself out but I'm going to stick with my answer. If you don't fully understand what you are doing, no not buy advanced gear.
Trial and error is not the way to learn with stuff that is potentially dangerous

 

[r055co]

Not more than my NC, but I've been giving that little tube plenty of work as well. I think I like the NC's button better than the magnetic one though, but I have one of the newer versions of the NC (button has knurling which as I understand it wasn't on the original release).

Yep, like the stock NC button better myself on the NC. But it does work very well with the tube. Reason why I don't use the NC much really is because of my VCP, love the hell out of that BEAST.

Sent from my Android Tablet w/Tapatalk

 

[r055co]

Knock yourself out but I'm going to stick with my answer. If you don't fully understand what you are doing, no not buy advanced gear.
Trial and error is not the way to learn with stuff that is potentially dangerous

Would have been best if he had known to ask before buying it, but as I stated he came here for help. If we tell everyone who asks for help to fuck off and not give them any help sure isn't the best way ya know

Sent from my Android Tablet w/Tapatalk

 

[Exaco]

Would have been best if he had known to ask before buying it, but as I stated he came here for help. If we tell everyone who asks for help to fuck off and not give them any help sure isn't the best way ya know

Sent from my Android Tablet w/Tapatalk

Well, i already made a decision, just asked if there's anything else i should know to be much safer and it helped alot.

 

[outwest]

Thanks guys, that's tons of info to process, will be extremely useful before launching the Noisy Cricket with Indestructible RDA.

I've bought those batteries from GearBest, from review pictures seems like its authentic based on looks, even its most likely a clones cause its located in china, but still after i get it shipped i will try to replace asap with 100% authentic ones, for example ordering from Sony itself via amazon:
http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_193094.html

Also will look forward for the upgrade kit, but meanwhile thinking maybe will remove the fire button or batteries before i go to sleep or leaving the mod somewhere till i will learn everything 100%. As long as it wont explode and the atty wont fly through my teeth and throat like a bullet it should be ok, the fire burst is not that scary, should handle it quickly ( not much to damage around in most cases ).

Thats the whole buy list ( RDA had discount, original price 49$ - hopefully not marketing trick to sell clone as original ):

P.S. Thats first time i'm trying to order from this site, the prices were so low that i didn't resisted to not to order from here. Especially when i can get a refund if something goes wrong, also all the same stuff on amazon would cost me like 160$.

Well, using regulated mods for lifetime wont make me an advanced user too. There must be a first steps done to become an experienced vaper. Even im vaping for a week+ does not mean im total newbie, because also watched alot of informative videos in the same time and weeks before i got my first mod what most beginners wont do, so even some of my friends who vapes for months asks me to help with vaping tech etc, because they basically has no time to do their research and learn new things about vaping everyday.

Tbh at first i was a bit scared of even thinking to use the mech mod, but after the research and learning all the stuff it does not sound that scary anymore, but its still risky, even for an expert.

As far as I know, Sony doesn't sell their 18650 batteries on Amazon. For batteries, I recommend liionwholesale.com rtdvapor.com or imrbatteries.com And, Mooch's handy reference chart for comparing the amps of different batteries (extremely handy for the various LGs):

 

[r055co]

Well, i already made a decision, just asked if there's anything else i should know to be much safer and it helped alot.

Yep, keep asking questions and continue to do so. I must stress though, ONLY GET BATTERIES FROM TRUSTED SOURCES. Batteries are at least 50% if not more of the equation. There's a lot of energy stored in a very small space, thus why when/if they fail very bad things happen. Don't fuck around with it, be obsessive with battery maintenance, insure the wrapping is pristine and don't abuse them. That and also insure you have "AUTHENTIC" LG, Sony and Samsung from "RELIABLE/REPUTABLE" sources. Liion Wholesale and IMR Batteries are a good place to stick with and insure you follow Mooch either on his blog or on Facebook.

It really isn't that hard, its very simple rules but very important that you follow them. Thing about Mech's are "YOU" are in charge of your safety, not anyone or anything else.

I love Mech's, but they demand respect and that is a major reason why I love them.

Anyway end of rant for now, continue to ask questions and usually someone out here will responde.

Cheers.

Sent from my Android Tablet w/Tapatalk

 

[Exaco]

As far as I know, Sony doesn't sell their 18650 batteries on Amazon. For batteries, I recommend liionwholesale.com rtdvapor.com or imrbatteries.com And, Mooch's handy reference chart for comparing the amps of different batteries (extremely handy for the various LGs):

Thanks, btw Sony does sell batts on amazon ( If that would be fake Sony seller, it would've been banned long time ago )

Anyway im not sure what Konion means, but i've found that in other sites it says it's not protected or it is a konion clones.
So better will stick with the sites you provided or another trusted ones ( obv not ebay ).

 

[outwest]

Thanks, btw Sony does sell batts on amazon ( If that would be fake Sony seller, it would've been banned long time ago )

Anyway im not sure what Konion means, but i've found that in other sites it says it's not protected.

That's a listing for Sony brand, but Sony isn't the seller. The seller for that listing on Amazon.co.uk is AKKUPILOT and for that listing on amazon.de the seller is Akkupilot - Fachhandel Taschenlampen, Akkus, Batterien (translated to battery Pilot - Traders flashlights, batteries) along with 15 other sellers (incl. Amazon) On .co.uk it has 3 neg reviews for being fake. There are lots of fake goods (in all categories) sold on Amazon. Some get banned fast, some sellers manage to stick around for a crazy long time.

 

[Exaco]

Oh, seems like i forgot how to use amazon

So based on the prices the US18560VTC4 i've ordered from GearBest could be fake and also could be authentic, what should i do with them if its fake? People reports its quality ones.
Here's some stats for the fake ones:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/US18560VTC4-30A-discharge-_146963500.html

 

[outwest]

Here ya go. This might help

 

[outwest]

Oh, seems like i forgot how to use amazon

So based on the prices the US18560VTC4 i've ordered from GearBest could be fake and also could be authentic, what should i do with them if its fake? People reports its quality ones.
Here's some stats for the fake ones:
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/US18560VTC4-30A-discharge-_146963500.html

They could be real, could be good quality fakes, or could be terrible fakes. I have no idea if GearBest lies about their batteries or not and if their battery vendor is good or not. I do know that I bought some LED lights that were supposed to be 1600 lumen in brightness but when I got them I discovered that they were only about 600 lumen (huge difference - instead of 100watt incandescent equivalent, they're more like a 40watt). With GearBest, even if it's not as described, they want you to pay the return shipping, which is often higher than what you paid for the item(s).

They can be tested. You'd have to find someone that has the equipment to do it (or buy the equipment).

 

[Exaco]

Read some reviews about GearBest, seems like they're like FastTech or even better. Too bad im not daily shopper, so i dunno about FastTech ( More like Steam/G2A guy here ).
People claims that gearbest sells quality stuff and cheap, but they're extremely slow that i can confirm too, they're still processing my order.

I have multi meter, so probably will be able to test them. Just in case my neighbour is an electrician, so he will help me figure that out.

 

[Rabbit Slayer]

Dude, electricians work with wiring houses and shit not battery operated devices

 

[Exaco]

Dude, electricians work with wiring houses and shit not battery operated devices

Well, he will know more about batteries than me, never seen any electrician who does not know ohms law or difference between crappy and good batts. The stuff must be like basics for them and wring is way more advanced than using an mech mod.

By the way, seems like mods does not explode the same second i press fire button, or do they ?
If they do not explode instantly, there's nothing to worry about, i would feel it heating up or no ?
Most people probably ignore the heat, thats why they end up exploding it.
Recently watched various force short experiments, none of them had an explosion without heating up like crazy for atleast 5secs.

 

[outwest]

Well, he will know more about batteries than me, never seen any electrician who does not know ohms law or difference between crappy and good batts. The stuff must be like basics for them and wring is way more advanced than using an mech mod.





By the way, seems like mods does not explode the same second i press fire button, or do they ?
If they do not explode instantly, there's nothing to worry about, i would feel it heating up or no ?
Most people probably ignore the heat, thats why they end up exploding it.
Recently watched various force short experiments, none of them had an explosion without heating up like crazy for atleast 5secs.

I dont have first hand experience with that (touch wood) but this guy does and he described it as less than a second and unable to get rid of before exploding http://vapingunderground.com/threads/its-been-enough-time-to-share-my-horror-story.250958/

 

[Exaco]

I dont have first hand experience with that (touch wood) but this guy does and he described it as less than a second and unable to get rid of before exploding http://vapingunderground.com/threads/its-been-enough-time-to-share-my-horror-story.250958/

Thats pretty interesting, but he used the Atlantis, which is 100% short chance.

Btw just realised that Sony is Japan company, so i guess these batteries from FastTech, GearBest etc is totally genuine and the price is pretty legit ( imported always costs alot more ).

 

[Exaco]

Okay guys, i've got the mod 3 days ago and i'm vaping it without any problems, so far i've a single coil build at around 0.64ohms ( added extra wraps on prebuilt 0.45ohm coil ). Tried even running it at 0.31ohm for a half day (

) had no problems too, except some heat issues, so for safety purposes switched back to single coil.

So what's the deal with the Hybrid connection ? I don't see it very dangerous as long as the battery is wrapped fine, how the upgrade kit actually would help me ? The hybrid is made pretty fine, i've examined it a bit and there's no way i could dead short.

 

[nightshard]

The problem with hybrids refers mainly to the atty 510 used with it.
If the positive pin is adjustable it could screw itself in and short and if the positive pin is too short it can arch from positive to negative.

 

[outwest]

Thats pretty interesting, but he used the Atlantis, which is 100% short chance.

Btw just realised that Sony is Japan company, so i guess these batteries from FastTech, GearBest etc is totally genuine and the price is pretty legit ( imported always costs alot more ).

Fasttech seems to tell the truth more often than some China based companies (though I dunno about their batteries and how honest they are about that). Part of that, though, goes back to how honest was their supplier?

Gearbest will lie about stuff. I bought some LED light bulbs that were advertised as being 1650 lumen. That's put them at about the same brightness as a good quality 100w traditional bulb. Well, they lied. They're about the same brightness as a 40w bulb (around 495 lumen). That's a huge difference and makes them wholly unsuitable for what I was going to use them for. To get refund, I have to ship back at my expense to China, which costs nearly as much as what I paid. If they'll lie about something like that, do I trust them to sell me authentic batteries? Hell no.

 

[nightshard]

FT sell battery shrink wrap with battery writing already on it.
Here's an example of a Samsung 22P:
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012801/2155701-18650-battery-sleeve-pvc-heat-shrinkable-tube

So what does it tell you about their "authentic" batteries?

 

[Angrygod50]

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/its-been-enough-time-to-share-my-horror-story.250958/

Everyone's giving you great advice and you should follow it but also look at this thread.

Be smart and be safe.

 

[Exaco]

http://vapingunderground.com/threads/its-been-enough-time-to-share-my-horror-story.250958/

Everyone's giving you great advice and you should follow it but also look at this thread.

Be smart and be safe.

Thanks, i really appreciate the info, but i don't want to sound way too ignorant, stubborn or even arrogant, but he used a standard "TANK" on a mech mod, that is a suicide and i know that long time ago. All i wanted to know for some extra cautions that is less common ( i've wrote a list that i know already, seems like most of you didn't even read that, probs u read that i vape for 1week and automatically treated me as a newbie that knows nothing about ohms law or difference between parallel/series etc. ).
I'm not going to repeat that mistake that the OP did in the topic.

Well to clear this gear stuff i'm using VTC4 batteries, as you already know im using 2 Batteries Series mod, which means i got 30amp and 8.4volts at full charge. So my limit is 0.28ohm ( lowest and potentially unsafe ), so i stick with 0.6ohm range which is half the amp limit, im going to get some coils that is at 1.2ohm and make a dual coil for the RDA.

So what i want to know or make sure of here is little list:

1) I often get a juice drip on my battery positive through the RDA, is that very dangerous or pretty ok ?
IMO: No problem as long the whole mod is not filled with juice or there's enough of juice to fill whole hybrid connection.
2) What if the coil detachs or gets loose while i vape ? The ohm will decrease or increase ?
IMO: Coil detach or loosening = less circuit that means in higher ohm to zero circuit ( infinite resistance like 99999.9ohm).
3) My ohm tester shows higher ohms when i tighten the RDA on it, does that works the same on a mod ?
IMO: Tester is not accurate, but ohms wont change on mod.
4) What if i overheat the coil?
IMO: Juice has to dry first, then its possible.

 

[r055co]

Thanks, i really appreciate the info, but i don't want to sound way too ignorant, stubborn or even arrogant, but he used a standard "TANK" on a mech mod, that is a suicide and i know that long time ago. All i wanted to know for some extra cautions that is less common ( i've wrote a list that i know already, seems like most of you didn't even read that, probs u read that i vape for 1week and automatically treated me as a newbie that knows nothing about ohms law or difference between parallel/series etc. ).
I'm not going to repeat that mistake that the OP did in the topic.

Well to clear this gear stuff i'm using VTC4 batteries, as you already know im using 2 Batteries Series mod, which means i got 30amp and 8.4volts at full charge. So my limit is 0.28ohm ( lowest and potentially unsafe ), so i stick with 0.6ohm range which is half the amp limit, im going to get some coils that is at 1.2ohm and make a dual coil for the RDA.

So what i want to know or make sure of here is little list:

1) I often get a juice drip on my battery positive through the RDA, is that very dangerous or pretty ok ?
IMO: No problem as long the whole mod is not filled with juice or there's enough of juice to fill whole hybrid connection.
2) What if the coil detachs or gets loose while i vape ? The ohm will decrease or increase ?
IMO: Coil detach or loosening = less circuit that means in higher ohm to zero circuit ( infinite resistance like 99999.9ohm).
3) My ohm tester shows higher ohms when i tighten the RDA on it, does that works the same on a mod ?
IMO: Tester is not accurate, but ohms wont change on mod.

Using Tanks on a Mech is "NOT" suicide, but not using the right Tank on a hybrid is, just like RDA's. The right Tank is perfectly fine, fact is there are mode's specifically designed to be used with Tanks.

Here is one of mine "specifically" designed for Tanks

Now Tanks on some of my other Mechs -

 

[r055co]

Well to clear this gear stuff i'm using VTC4 batteries, as you already know im using 2 Batteries Series mod, which means i got 30amp and 8.4volts at full charge. So my limit is 0.28ohm ( lowest and potentially unsafe ), so i stick with 0.6ohm range which is half the amp limit, im going to get some coils that is at 1.2ohm and make a dual coil for the RDA.

You do NOT have 30a, you have 23. with the VTC4

So what i want to know or make sure of here is little list:

1) I often get a juice drip on my battery positive through the RDA, is that very dangerous or pretty ok ?
IMO: No problem as long the whole mod is not filled with juice or there's enough of juice to fill whole hybrid connection.

No, but you need to clean it, juice is not conductive

2) What if the coil detachs or gets loose while i vape ? The ohm will decrease or increase ?
IMO: Coil detach or loosening = less circuit that means in higher ohm to zero circuit ( infinite resistance like 99999.9ohm).

Possible short, I always vape at least 3-4 drips or 1/4 tank a fresh build on a regulated mod before moving it to my Mech. This is to insure no wonky coils, shorts, etc.

3) My ohm tester shows higher ohms when i tighten the RDA on it, does that works the same on a mod ?
IMO: Tester is not accurate, but ohms wont change on mod.

Loose connections will give you wonky ohm readings

4) What if i overheat the coil?
IMO: Juice has to dry first, then its possible.

You'll burn your cotton and get a very nasty harsh hit

 

[nightshard]

Using a tank on a mech is not suicide.
A tank with proper resistance and a proper 510 pin on a mech with a proper 510 connector and a proper battery is just fine.
When using a mech you need understand what you're doing and take the steps needed for safe vaping.
If you don't then it's suicide.
VTC4s are not actual 30A, more like 22-23.

1. A lot of RDA users get juice drip on the outside of their mod but I don't understand how you get it on the inside.
If your RDA leaks clean it right away, don't wait for it to leak all over the place.
Juice won't dead short your battery but it will cause damage and corrosion to the battery and electronic components of your mod (if regulated).

2. Depends how it happens.
If the coil snaps or gets loose but doesn't touch anything the circuit will break.
If one of the legs gets loose but stay in the post the resistance will fluctuate.
If the coil snaps and the positive side touches the body of the RDA the resistance will drop drastically up to the point of a dead short (how much depends on the length of the section of the coil).
It's your responsibility to tighten the post screws properly so it wouldn't detach.
Been building coils for years and while in some cases the coil snapped while installing it, I have never had it snap while using.

3. Some ohm meters are less accurate then others and resistance can jump around based on what i'v written above.
When you build a coil, make the calculations in advanced to reach the desired resistance and don't trust your ohm meter to do it for you.

 

[r055co]

The ONLY actual 30A VTC is the VTC3.

Not correct, as per Mooch -

Sony 30A VTC3 1500mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...a great 25A battery, damaged at over 30A/50A.

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?id=1636157550007158&story_fbid=1643044632651783

 

[nightshard]

Not correct, as per Mooch -


https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?id=1636157550007158&story_fbid=1643044632651783

That's good to know.
I've known for a while that VTC4s are around 22-23A but didn't know that VTC3s are not either.
Tbh haven't been using VTCs for a few years now.
I suppose the way to go with mechs is LG HB2/HB4/HB6.

 

[r055co]

That's good to know.
I've known for a while that VTC4s are around 22-23A but didn't know that VTC3s are not either.
Tbh haven't been using VTCs for a few years now.
I suppose the way to go with mechs is LG HB2/HB4/HB6.

Whenever I have any questions or I'm in the market for batteries I always check Mooch, I used to think VTC4's were 30a from comments over the net, bought a bunch of them. Find out later through Mooch they're only 23a. I rarely build under .2 ohms, when I do I'm on a parallel mech, but shit like this is a must to know.

 

[nightshard]

Whenever I have any questions or I'm in the market for batteries I always check Mooch, I used to think VTC4's were 30a from comments over the net, bought a bunch of them. Find out later through Mooch they're only 23a. I rarely build under .2 ohms, when I do I'm on a parallel mech, but shit like this is a must to know.

A lot of the old mech users had "30A" VTC4s including me.

I guess it's better to have a "30A" 23A battery then a "40A" 10A one