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Am i ready to go Advanced ? ( Move to Mech )

Exaco

Member For 3 Years
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Woah, thats alot of new stuff to know. Thank you for your responses and time :) You guys probs saved my teeth only just by informing me about the battery amperage and im glad i've choosen way safer ohm range. Also now i see why the mods body got bit warm after every hit on 0.31ohm, even then i took the battery out asap to check, but it was kinda cold, so i taught its the RDA transfered the heat to the body.
 

r055co

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Member For 4 Years
A lot of the old mech users had "30A" VTC4s including me.

I guess it's better to have a "30A" 23A battery then a "40A" 10A one :D
Thus why I refuse to buy anything from malicious company's like eFest. Doing so only supports scum like them, when I go into a B&M and they start pushing eFest I "tactfully" give them a piece of my mind. I tell them that anyone who carries and sells eFest are irresponsible and put their customers in danger.
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Thus why I refuse to buy anything from malicious company's like eFest. Doing so only supports scum like them, when I go into a B&M and they start pushing eFest I "tactfully" give them a piece of my mind. I tell them that anyone who carries and sells eFest are irresponsible and put their customers in danger.
I've seen that companies like Ultrafire started a new trend of placing a USB port directly in their 3000 mAh ICR pipe bombs, as if their batteries are not unsafe enough.
I bet Efest will do it next.

Oh wait Efest don't make batteries they rewrap c bin batteries, so maybe they will start rewrapping ultrafires.
 
Last edited:

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Member For 4 Years
Woah, thats alot of new stuff to know. Thank you for your responses and time :) You guys probs saved my teeth only just by informing me about the battery amperage and im glad i've choosen way safer ohm range. Also now i see why the mods body got bit warm after every hit on 0.31ohm, even then i took the battery out asap to check, but it was kinda cold, so i taught its the RDA transfered the heat to the body.
Most mech users got the my mod is too hot scare.
Your mod conducts heat from the RDA to the body very well, especially if its copper.
 

r055co

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Member For 4 Years
I've seen that companies like Ultrafire started a new trend of placing a USB port directly in their 3000 mAh ICR pipe bombs, as if their batteries are not unsafe enough.
I bet Efest will do it next.

Oh wait Efest don't make batteries they rewrap c bin batteries, so maybe they will start rewrapping ultrafires.
Oh hell ...................
As if they weren't dangerous enough ............

Woah, thats alot of new stuff to know. Thank you for your responses and time :) You guys probs saved my teeth only just by informing me about the battery amperage and im glad i've choosen way safer ohm range. Also now i see why the mods body got bit warm after every hit on 0.31ohm, even then i took the battery out asap to check, but it was kinda cold, so i taught its the RDA transfered the heat to the body.

Go back to what I posted earlier, pay attention "especially" about batteries "and" things like following Mooch. This is a must, battery is #1, that includes building for them.
http://vapingunderground.com/threads/am-i-ready-to-go-advanced-move-to-mech.250132/#post-1226190

Mech's are wonderful, personally IMO with the right build they provide the purest, smoothest and cleanest Vape.

With Regulated Mod's you put your safety in the hands of an electronic Chip, with Mech's "YOU" are in charge and responsible for your own safety.
 

outwest

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Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Using Tanks on a Mech is "NOT" suicide, but not using the right Tank on a hybrid is, just like RDA's. The right Tank is perfectly fine, fact is there are mode's specifically designed to be used with Tanks.

Here is one of mine "specifically" designed for Tanks

kato_zpslhctfz9t.jpg


Now Tanks on some of my other Mechs -

squape_zpsff6xqma5.jpg

modfather_zpsy3fr4csj.jpg

nctube_zpsgfxealat.jpg

boreas_zps2egydsl6.jpg
Agreed. I used a kayfun clone tank on my first mech, but it wasn't a hybrid (dunno if hybrids even existed back then). I've used other tanks on other mechs as well. It's all about matching the right type of 510 pin to the right type of mech.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
 

r055co

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Member For 4 Years
Agreed. I used a kayfun clone tank on my first mech, but it wasn't a hybrid (dunno if hybrids even existed back then). I've used other tanks on other mechs as well. It's all about matching the right type of 510 pin to the right type of mech.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
I avoid hybrid connections, dangerous especially when you have a device that has an adjustable pin. I know the Noisy Cricket is very popular which I do have two but I got the upgrade kit from Fat Daddy. Really like it, the voltage drop from a direct connection from a hybrid to a solid pin is negligible, at most not even noticeable. I've put an inline voltage meter and tested, maybe a .02 if that difference. Not worth the safety risk, plus with the kit you get a copper tube which I use rather often but like when I had the hybrid connection on my NC I would use a heat sink. You can see it in one of the photo's I posted with my Velocity on it, works well.
 

r055co

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Member For 4 Years
Woah, thats alot of new stuff to know. Thank you for your responses and time :) You guys probs saved my teeth only just by informing me about the battery amperage and im glad i've choosen way safer ohm range. Also now i see why the mods body got bit warm after every hit on 0.31ohm, even then i took the battery out asap to check, but it was kinda cold, so i taught its the RDA transfered the heat to the body.
As I stated in that earlier post do NOT build below 0.4 ohms on a series mod, you build high with a series mod. My sweetspot is around .7 - .8 ohms, sometimes I even build around 1.1 ohms which works well with my Boreas Tank. If you want a rowdy build build at .5 but do not go below .4 ohms.

With a .31 you're well over 200 Watt's, that really can't be an enjoyable Vape not to mention you're getting into abuse the battery territory. If you don't want to spend the money on the Fat Daddy upgrade kit at least get a heat sink. But the upgrade kit is only $14.95 and you get a copper tube you can use as a basic SMPL style mod, works great "with" a heatsink ;)
 

nightshard

It's VG/PG not PG/VG
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Member For 4 Years
If you're aiming for low resistance it's much safer to use a parallel mech mod and not serial one (like the Noisy Cricket).
 

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