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Any one know of a good multimeter?
- Thread starter Justcody
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BAREFOOTJUNKER
Member For 5 Years
Fluke, they are the best don't work without one.
You can buy 5 cheaper DVMs over time, or one good and take care of it and have it for many years. But you now have 2 votes for fluke. I use one that is very old but still reliable. I have all older units, I have one of these on the truck that has been used FOR YEARS. Can't personally speak to the newer models.
edited new, here and not sure why the link to the ebay listing for a fluke isn't showing up.
edited new, here and not sure why the link to the ebay listing for a fluke isn't showing up.
the Fluke is the top of the line...but a bit of overkill for what you need. If you are troubleshooting complex electrical circuitry...get the Fluke. If you are doing continuity checks or voltage drop checks on a mod.....you will do well with an inexpensive metre from Radio Shack. As an aside...I purchased a metre on the VERY cheap from Harbor Freight...it was rubbish.
I only recommend what I actually use.
I only recommend what I actually use.
This
Mine is just like this one. 20 bucks so far on ebay. item # 201247866555
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If you plan to be testing below .5 ohms and 4.2 volts you will be over most DMM meters amp range if running in series, usually 10 amps, you would have to read and learn about each DMM you are looking at and see what it's amp range is. Anything lower than that and you will either need a shunt in place or a clamp type meter, the clamp meter would be very difficult to use since it would require a longer wire in place in order to get the clamp around the wire, the shunt would also require you to put it in series so this would present it's own issues.
Also if you intend to push the limits if taking the reading in series make sure the meter has fused protection since some cheaper meters don't offer this. Keep in mind those fuses are not cheap to replace, that is if you buy the ones that you are willing to risk your safety on.
Be safe.
Also if you intend to push the limits if taking the reading in series make sure the meter has fused protection since some cheaper meters don't offer this. Keep in mind those fuses are not cheap to replace, that is if you buy the ones that you are willing to risk your safety on.
Be safe.
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I would also like to add that the Fluke 70II or 70III does not read amps unless you use the Fluke 80i-410 clamp meter adapter which will allow you to use the Mv range on the meter to read amp but this adapter is expensive by itself (I use this in the HVAC industry). As far as using the 70 series Fluke you have to go to the Fluke 73 model (up to 10 amps) in order to get this feature built in without using a Amp to Voltage converter.
I will also add what I have said on here before Fluke is not the end all be all, there are a LOT of great meters out there besides Flukes. Yes I own Flukes but I also own other brands as well and have come to trust several of them as much as I do Fluke.
If you have your heart set on a Fluke check out the 17B or 18B versions. A bit over $100 each but you get a new meter and don't have to worry if you are buying something someone has damaged, I learned this one the hard way.
I will also add what I have said on here before Fluke is not the end all be all, there are a LOT of great meters out there besides Flukes. Yes I own Flukes but I also own other brands as well and have come to trust several of them as much as I do Fluke.
If you have your heart set on a Fluke check out the 17B or 18B versions. A bit over $100 each but you get a new meter and don't have to worry if you are buying something someone has damaged, I learned this one the hard way.
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CraigVM62
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I agree with franciscan and CgS_Drone....
I am another that uses a DMM constantly throughout my work day. I have a couple high end meters on my van which I use as back up, and to confirm accuracy of some much cheaper meters which get used daily. I drop, forget and lose several meters a year. Much fewer tears over the loss of a $35 meter than one that cost 10x that amount or more.
While I would surely stay away from the dirt cheap meters found at HF and ebay, I don't see needing to spend much for one that will fill the needs of this hobby.
I am another that uses a DMM constantly throughout my work day. I have a couple high end meters on my van which I use as back up, and to confirm accuracy of some much cheaper meters which get used daily. I drop, forget and lose several meters a year. Much fewer tears over the loss of a $35 meter than one that cost 10x that amount or more.
While I would surely stay away from the dirt cheap meters found at HF and ebay, I don't see needing to spend much for one that will fill the needs of this hobby.
If you want to trust it it is a Fluke.
Been there, done that. I know exactly what you are talking about. I went to using cheaper ones (Fieldpiece mainly) after I went to a rooftop to setup for first fire and told the control guy not to energize it, had to step away for about an hour to help another guy on another unit, when I came back I found my Fluke 87-5 melted down the side of the unit. Control guy figured he was a tech and fired the unit without looking. I handed him what was left of the meter and said it's yours now, you owe me $350, he paid it.
Sent a few off the sides of buildings when clipped to my side also.
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Look at it this way. It's an investment.
A multimeter should be in every vaper's toolbox, especially if you rebuild and/or use mech mods. A multimeter is a lot more than just checking the resistance on coils:
If you like to sub-ohm or super sub-ohm, then I would highly recommend getting the Fluke. Less expensive multimeters tend to have a bit of play room in their readings, and when you're vaping at extremely low resistances, you don't have room to screw around.
A multimeter should be in every vaper's toolbox, especially if you rebuild and/or use mech mods. A multimeter is a lot more than just checking the resistance on coils:
- Check battery voltage (to make sure batts are safe/charger isn't overcharging)
- Find actual resistance on attys (can vary from metered ohms)
- Make sure your VW/VV device output is correct
- Check 510 connection to make sure it isn't going bad
If you like to sub-ohm or super sub-ohm, then I would highly recommend getting the Fluke. Less expensive multimeters tend to have a bit of play room in their readings, and when you're vaping at extremely low resistances, you don't have room to screw around.
sohkis
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i've been using this dmm ( http://www.microcenter.com/product/207743/3_1-2_Digital_Multimeter ) i picked up years ago for car audio installs & it seems to be more accurate than the readings from the FT ohm reader I got.
gives readings accurate for my purposes for battery voltage, as well as atomizer resistance & it only cost $15. now if you're getting into super sub-ohm builds, you might want something a little more precise/accurate.
gives readings accurate for my purposes for battery voltage, as well as atomizer resistance & it only cost $15. now if you're getting into super sub-ohm builds, you might want something a little more precise/accurate.
Hi, I'm finally ordering a battery mod for the first time (Cool Fire IV 75W TC 18650). This may sound like a really dumb question but do I really need a multimeter if I'm not building my own coils? If so, why would I need it? Thank you so much for your sage advice.
You can get old analog meters that will zero at low ohms and give better low ohm accuracy than digitals.
I see them at flea markets and on ebay. Locally, they go for peanuts since everyone wants the digital ones. Some are missing or need new leads, but they can be made or found cheap.
There are times an analog meter will tell you more than a digital - like when expecting DC and have some weird AC or square wave instead!
Simpson, Triplett, Weston, BK are some brands to look at.
Simpson and BK make good digitals too.
I have a Fluke 27, BK multimeter and L-C version, and several others in tool bags.
Another thing about LCD meters. I've had some that after a few years the display is shot from heat/cold issues (delamination of the cells that hold the liquid). My father's old analog simpson is probably 60+ years old and still works fine.
I see them at flea markets and on ebay. Locally, they go for peanuts since everyone wants the digital ones. Some are missing or need new leads, but they can be made or found cheap.
There are times an analog meter will tell you more than a digital - like when expecting DC and have some weird AC or square wave instead!
Simpson, Triplett, Weston, BK are some brands to look at.
Simpson and BK make good digitals too.
I have a Fluke 27, BK multimeter and L-C version, and several others in tool bags.
Another thing about LCD meters. I've had some that after a few years the display is shot from heat/cold issues (delamination of the cells that hold the liquid). My father's old analog simpson is probably 60+ years old and still works fine.
dr_rox: Thank you for your answer, it was very informative. My question is really do I *need* one -- my mod will read the ohms on my pre-made coils and my charger *should* tell me my battery info (I've never owned a nice one like the NiteCore D4 that is coming in the mail... so I don't know a whole lot about this sort of thing (as you may have already surmised).
No, you don't need one for pre-made coils. If you ever decide to build coils, just buy an inexpensive ohm reader like this. You don't need a multimeter for anything vape related
You just screw on an atomizer and check the resistance.
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Thank you so much, Robert B, very helpful & answers all my questions. Have a wonderful night!
If you're intending to run high amp tests near or above 10A then you really need to know what you're doing, and need more than just a multimeter. Read the responses from cgs_drone above, he explains in detail your options (Dc clamp or shunt).