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Anyone else dislike the All-44?

"11"

Silver Contributor
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I have used a 2-bank XTAR VP4 all these years which works perfectly, but am getting 21700 batts so had to look for another charger. After reading around, went with the Gyrfalcon All-44. But I have the following issues, and don't think it's anything I'm doing, since it's in auto-mode...

1. 18650s charging with the default 1A, 4.2 cut off. (I know, .5A is better but I don't like the wait and would rather buy batteries more often than take hours to charge.) Problem is, I can tell from how very long it's taking to charge, it's using .5A even though 1A is selected.

2. Worse, when it says it's fully charged and I pop the batts in the mod, they're only at 3.79v. That's according to my mods, and the XTAR that I popped them in afterwards to db check. XTAR always charged to about 4.12, then the mods show as fully charged, which I expect after just taking healthy batts off the charger.

Another irritation is the display turns off, so can't walk by and glance, but if it did everything else right I'd live with that.

Won't ask for recommendations as plenty of threads here and I want another XTAR so will be looking for that. Just wondered with all the hoopla over the Gyrfalcon if anyone else found similar issues with it.
 
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Syythe

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I went with the Opus charger over the Gyrfalcon and have zero regrets. Works great with 2x700s, and has more options and settings than I would ever need. All the reviews I seen on the Opus are old and out dated, the newer versions do not suffer from the same issues.

 

"11"

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I love my Gyrfalcons... no issues at all...
Are you charging 18650s @ 1A, and if so, do you notice it's actually charging at .5a ?

My XTAR charges at 1A and I re-charge when batts are normally between 3.62v-3.65. Charging at 1A takes about an hour.

In Gyrfalcon takes nearly 3hr, even though it says 1A. That's how I know it's actually using .5a. (FTR batts are genuine Samsungs from Liion.)
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I’ve found no issues with mine.

I got mine for two reasons, cheap 4 bay, charge termination algorithm.

Have so many batteries, not to worried about time to finish, or status in charge cycle…

Lights green when charging, lights red when done.




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"11"

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Never owned Gyrfalcon.
You didn't ask but you said you wanted Xtar.
I recently bought this Xtar X2 Extended Version and it's now my favorite. Esp for 21700.
Thanks, though since I'll be using 21700 and 18650 mods I'll be looking for a 4-bank min charger this time. Possibly an 8-bank. I'll look for the 4-bank version of the one you suggested and check it out. I love my XTAR. Continues to work flawlessly after some 7yrs in service.

Also looking at the XTAR VC8. However one reviewer said it also doesn't charge at the rate selected, but at the rate it wants to. I understand this may be good for newbies or for those who don't care about how long it takes to charge, and I understand it chooses the charge that will extend batt life the most, but I want the charger to use the rate I choose.

(And also have other must-haves - like for each bank to have its own LED readout, and not a model where I have to press a button to switch between channels to see what each bank is doing. And display always-on. That's why I need to do my own research! I'm a picky mofo. ) :giggle:
 
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"11"

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I went with the Opus charger over the Gyrfalcon and have zero regrets. Works great with 2x700s, and has more options and settings than I would ever need. All the reviews I seen on the Opus are old and out dated, the newer versions do not suffer from the same issues.


I did look at the Opus but the review might have been old. In the review I saw it was missing a feature I wanted but looked at too many now to know which feature it was. Might have been it didn't have a separate readout for each channel, but perhaps other models of the OPUS do.

I'll be starting with the XTARs though, since I've had excellent luck with mine, but I did hear good things about the OPUS so will revisit that and others if I can't find an XTAR that meets my list of needs.

Seems like every one of them (of every brand) has a "but..." Like the XTAR VC8 is nice, but it treats each bank of four channels like one bank. So all 4 channels on one side have to configured the same, and then the other four channels have to be configured the same. Not a deal breaker since I charge in sets of two and will only be using 21700 and 18650s, but not ideal. Would overlook that though if not for the reviewer that showed it wasn't actually charging at the rate selected, but at a lower rate. Just like the Gyrfalcon is doing (in my case anyway).

Thanks for the info on the Opus.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I did look at the Opus but the review might have been old. In the review I saw it was missing a feature I wanted but looked at too many now to know which feature it was. Might have been it didn't have a separate readout for each channel, but perhaps other models of the OPUS do.

I'll be starting with the XTARs though, since I've had excellent luck with mine, but I did hear good things about the OPUS so will revisit that and others if I can't find an XTAR that meets my list of needs.

Seems like every one of them (of every brand) has a "but..." Like the XTAR VC8 is nice, but it treats each bank of four channels like one bank. So all 4 channels on one side have to configured the same, and then the other four channels have to be configured the same. Not a deal breaker since I charge in sets of two and will only be using 21700 and 18650s, but not ideal. Would overlook that though if not for the reviewer that showed it wasn't actually charging at the rate selected, but at a lower rate. Just like the Gyrfalcon is doing (in my case anyway).

Thanks for the info on the Opus.

Probably the always “screen on” feature

The Opus dims the back light after a minute or so.

I like the Opus also… never had an issue with it.

As termination algorithms… this is where the ALL-44 beat the Opus for me.

I noticed my 30Ts showing finished at 4.2v take it off charge and via dmm it read 4.17v

With the ALL-44 said charge termination was closer to the 4.2 (4.195+) when read via dmm.

I also get why if set at 1a you want 1a, but that is part of the built in safety and charge algorithm.

The opus never charges what is set, you can set it at 2A and if the battery is above 3v the charger will not do more than 1.4a, and if you set it at 1a it will drop down below regardless at least in my observations.

Not bashing Xtar, they make good chargers, and some of the most accommodating for 21700 in terms of bay lengths… but from my reading on lygte forums, they didn’t have the best charging algorithms.


Good place to look at chargers, but also one where it can cook your noodle with information overload


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"11"

Silver Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
Probably the always “screen on” feature

The Opus dims the back light after a minute or so.

I like the Opus also… never had an issue with it.

As termination algorithms… this is where the ALL-44 beat the Opus for me.

I noticed my 30Ts showing finished at 4.2v take it off charge and via dmm it read 4.17v

With the ALL-44 said charge termination was closer to the 4.2 (4.195+) when read via dmm.

I also get why if set at 1a you want 1a, but that is part of the built in safety and charge algorithm.

The opus never charges what is set, you can set it at 2A and if the battery is above 3v the charger will not do more than 1.4a, and if you set it at 1a it will drop down below regardless at least in my observations.

Not bashing Xtar, they make good chargers, and some of the most accommodating for 21700 in terms of bay lengths… but from my reading on lygte forums, they didn’t have the best charging algorithms.


Good place to look at chargers, but also one where it can cook your noodle with information overload
Thanks for the link. I crack my noodle regularly with research. :) I'm not as concerned with getting one with the best performance algorithm-wise, as getting one that is "good enough" with the features I want. The batts will get charged one way or another, and they will also need to be replaced eventually, regardless.

I did read a review last night on the XTAR VC8 and saw what you're referring to...

I get why they design the chips the way they do, but they should refine it some so that if you choose 1A it will do that unless and until it's topping off and time to drop the current some (or the batt overheats or some other issue)... instead of defaulting to 'the best current for the battery type'. That's fine for auto-mode, but in config mode, it should do something as close as to what you set it to do, as long as it can be done safely. I can't believe that my old charger can charge at 1A (which it probably also drops off as the batt becomes close to charged), finishing the job in an hour.... which has worked fine since 2014 ... and new chargers refuse to charge in that amount of time, but want to take their sweet time to "do it a better way" that takes nearly 3x as long.

Again, in auto-mode, that's great. A nice feature even, esp for newbies but also for experienced users who don't care about charge time. But there should be an alternate mode that works like the old chips work - however they do it algorithm-wise - to charge in far less time. Even if that means the batts won't last as many years. That's a choice that should be up to the user imho.
 

Syythe

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Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
I did look at the Opus but the review might have been old. In the review I saw it was missing a feature I wanted but looked at too many now to know which feature it was. Might have been it didn't have a separate readout for each channel, but perhaps other models of the OPUS do.

I'll be starting with the XTARs though, since I've had excellent luck with mine, but I did hear good things about the OPUS so will revisit that and others if I can't find an XTAR that meets my list of needs.

Seems like every one of them (of every brand) has a "but..." Like the XTAR VC8 is nice, but it treats each bank of four channels like one bank. So all 4 channels on one side have to configured the same, and then the other four channels have to be configured the same. Not a deal breaker since I charge in sets of two and will only be using 21700 and 18650s, but not ideal. Would overlook that though if not for the reviewer that showed it wasn't actually charging at the rate selected, but at a lower rate. Just like the Gyrfalcon is doing (in my case anyway).

Thanks for the info on the Opus.
No problem.

The Opus does have fully independent bays. You could be charging at 1a on one bay, testing the mah of a battery in one, and charging at .5a in another for example.
 

"11"

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No problem.

The Opus does have fully independent bays. You could be charging at 1a on one bay, testing the mah of a battery in one, and charging at .5a in another for example.
Good to know, thanks for the info!
 

shawn.hoefer

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Are you charging 18650s @ 1A, and if so, do you notice it's actually charging at .5a ?

My XTAR charges at 1A and I re-charge when batts are normally between 3.62v-3.65. Charging at 1A takes about an hour.

In Gyrfalcon takes nearly 3hr, even though it says 1A. That's how I know it's actually using .5a. (FTR batts are genuine Samsungs from Liion.)
I charge 18650s, 2x700s, 26650s, AA, and AAA. I've never bothered to time it. I put the cells on at night, and take them off in the morning.

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"11"

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I charge 18650s, 2x700s, 26650s, AA, and AAA. I've never bothered to time it. I put the cells on at night, and take them off in the morning.
Thanks for the reply. I cycle through batteries during the day so charge time is a factor. Esp with all the new mods I got for the ban. I have more going than usual to check them out and play with them, so going thru more batts than normal.

BTW, the Gyrfalcon has been fully charging the 18650s all day today. Unlike yesterday.

I have no idea if the following had the effect of 'resetting' it, but when it wouldn't fully charge the batts last night, I got irritated and manually changed the cut-off to 4.3v, then put in two [18650s] that needed charging, keeping a close eye to remove them as soon as they reached 4.12. (And was also feeling the batts in the charger every so often to make sure they weren't getting warm.)

Removed them when they reached 4.12, but that's no way to use a charger (of course), so set the cut-off back to 4.2. Charger sat empty rest of the night/overnight.

This morning, at 4.2v, it's charging to 4.1x like it should. Still taking a long time to do it. But at least it seems to have resolved whatever issue it was having.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Thanks for the reply. I cycle through batteries during the day so charge time is a factor. Esp with all the new mods I got for the ban. I have more going than usual to check them out and play with them, so going thru more batts than normal.

BTW, the Gyrfalcon has been fully charging the 18650s all day today. Unlike yesterday.

I have no idea if the following had the effect of 'resetting' it, but when it wouldn't fully charge the batts last night, I got irritated and manually changed the cut-off to 4.3v, then put in two [18650s] that needed charging, keeping a close eye to remove them as soon as they reached 4.12. (And was also feeling the batts in the charger every so often to make sure they weren't getting warm.)

Removed them when they reached 4.12, but that's no way to use a charger (of course), so set the cut-off back to 4.2. Charger sat empty rest of the night/overnight.

This morning, at 4.2v, it's charging to 4.1x like it should. Still taking a long time to do it. But at least it seems to have resolved whatever issue it was having.

I’ll have to look at the timer when I swap out an 18650 from the BB. It’s the only battery I take down to like 3.2v.

See how long it takes to charge a Molicel P26A.

I’ll post back the time frame.


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"11"

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I’ll have to look at the timer when I swap out an 18650 from the BB. It’s the only battery I take down to like 3.2v.

See how long it takes to charge a Molicel P26A.

I’ll post back the time frame.


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Hey thanks, appreciate it. I have P42As coming tomorrow.

I do have to say in looking at the 30 or so chargers I've checked so far working down the list you posted above, so far the Gryfalcon hits more features I want than any other. (The reason I chose it to begin with.) I was looking at the manual again and it does have a manual mode, which I thought I was in (for changing the charging current)... but maybe will try it again. Maybe I'm in auto-mode and so it's charging the slower way. (But it should say .50a instead of 1a, even though it claims it charges at 1a in auto-mode, it is not.) Perhaps it's all user error. Will give it another go while I continue to look at other chargers. But I'm thinking even if I buy another I will keep this one, as long as it's fully charging the batts now...

Thanks again -
 

"11"

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After more research I realized I need another charger anyway, for the 21700s (that will arrive today), as I want to charge those at 2a and the Gyrfalcon can't.... and would like to ideally charge four at a time @ 2a. So seems best to have one dedicated to 21700s. And will just keep the Gyrfalcon for the 18650s. I do wish there was a button to keep the display on. Or some trick (button-combo press) to keep it on.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
After more research I realized I need another charger anyway, for the 21700s (that will arrive today), as I want to charge those at 2a and the Gyrfalcon can't.... and would like to ideally charge four at a time @ 2a. So seems best to have one dedicated to 21700s. And will just keep the Gyrfalcon for the 18650s. I do wish there was a button to keep the display on. Or some trick (button-combo press) to keep it on.
sorry for the delay... stuck the Molicel P26A in at 3.32v and it took 3h4m to fully charge it to 4.2v at the 1A selection.

That seems on par with what new batteries needing a charge once delivered in my past experiences and probably the device throttling based on its current voltage reading, which pretty much all chargers do... just probably with Xtar that stepping is done later in the charge/voltage read cycle... really don't know, assuming.

My 30T which I short cycle to 3.8v (3.86v on charger) at the lowest, took just a tad over an hour to get to 4.2v

Anyway, both the Opus and ALL-44 work for me, just never really paid any mind to the duration of charge.

I go through a P26A every 1.5+ days in the BB and have 8 of them, and the 30Ts I have over 40, I sort of slap them on, and they're done when they're done LOL
 

"11"

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sorry for the delay... stuck the Molicel P26A in at 3.32v and it took 3h4m to fully charge it to 4.2v at the 1A selection.

That seems on par with what new batteries needing a charge once delivered in my past experiences and probably the device throttling based on its current voltage reading, which pretty much all chargers do... just probably with Xtar that stepping is done later in the charge/voltage read cycle... really don't know, assuming.

My 30T which I short cycle to 3.8v (3.86v on charger) at the lowest, took just a tad over an hour to get to 4.2v

Anyway, both the Opus and ALL-44 work for me, just never really paid any mind to the duration of charge.

I go through a P26A every 1.5+ days in the BB and have 8 of them, and the 30Ts I have over 40, I sort of slap them on, and they're done when they're done LOL
Thanks so much for that. 3hrs is not as bad as I thought it was going to be @1A for a 21700. So at least when the batts get here later today I can charge them... until I get another charger that will do 2A.

I only have six 21700s en route, and have eight 18650s in rotation. Forty 30T's! No wonder you don't worry about the time! :)

Thanks again for that charge time! Appreciate it!
 
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~Don~

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Member For 5 Years
Thanks so much for that. 3hrs is not as bad as I thought it was going to be @1A for a 21700. So at least when the batts get here later today I can charge them... until I get another charger that will do 2A.

I only have six 21700s en route, and have eight 18650s in rotation. Forty 30T's! No wonder you don't worry about the time! :)

Thanks again for that charge time! Appreciate it!

I think that is the position many of us whom commented on time not being an issue sit... we just have more batteries than we would utilize in a day and not truly worry how long.

I would consider buying more batteries if you have 2x 21700 chargers, then you could also be one not to worry about time.
 

shawn.hoefer

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I think that is the position many of us whom commented on time not being an issue sit... we just have more batteries than we would utilize in a day and not truly worry how long.

I would consider buying more batteries if you have 2x 21700 chargers, then you could also be one not to worry about time.
Yeah, and I also carry an Xtar PB2 and an Xtar PB1 in my backpack when I'm out for the day, so I always have a spare set and a charger.

I've never used them outside of weekend trips, but I'm always comforted knowing they're there. ;-)

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"11"

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I think that is the position many of us whom commented on time not being an issue sit... we just have more batteries than we would utilize in a day and not truly worry how long.

I would consider buying more batteries if you have 2x 21700 chargers, then you could also be one not to worry about time.
I understand how many (probably most) would prefer that. For me, I already have a ton of crap in here and limited space. I'd rather have smaller numbers of batteries and rotate them thru (and 1A is not a big deal for 18650s, and 2A is not for 21700), then buy a new batch every couple years - rather than having a ton of batteries that I have to keep track of and have out handy, and which pair belong together and which one was flipped last time in the mod. I have a routine with the way I set the batts out waiting to be charged, and then after they're charged, and wouldn't have the space or desire to do that with more than I'm already using. I guess we all find our own routines that fit our needs (or personalities?).

The 21700s came... 4 are in the Gyrfalcon (2 waiting in the wings) and since this is their first charge it's better to do it at 1A anyway... but def getting a 2AMP'er for ongoing...!
 

"11"

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Yeah, and I also carry an Xtar PB2 and an Xtar PB1 in my backpack when I'm out for the day, so I always have a spare set and a charger.

I've never used them outside of weekend trips, but I'm always comforted knowing they're there. ;-)

Always nice to be prepared!
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I understand how many (probably most) would prefer that. For me, I already have a ton of crap in here and limited space. I'd rather have smaller numbers of batteries and rotate them thru (and 1A is not a big deal for 18650s, and 2A is not for 21700), then buy a new batch every couple years - rather than having a ton of batteries that I have to keep track of and have out handy, and which pair belong together and which one was flipped last time in the mod. I have a routine with the way I set the batts out waiting to be charged, and then after they're charged, and wouldn't have the space or desire to do that with more than I'm already using. I guess we all find our own routines that fit our needs (or personalities?).

The 21700s came... 4 are in the Gyrfalcon (2 waiting in the wings) and since this is their first charge it's better to do it at 1A anyway... but def getting a 2AMP'er for ongoing...!

That’s the beauty of batteries.

Married is only a thing if they’ve been duty cycled extremely differently.

Like me having so many 30Ts… I use them all in mechs, all at the same ohms and mostly all down to around 3.8v (vape gets really weak then)… they are all cycled in a dispenser… all dated when I got them and labeled with their initial rested voltage upon first charge.

Now let’s say I have a series mech, I’ll grab two from the bunch, slap them in and vape away… they were cycled again down to about 3.8v when I’d swap them out, but this time rather sitting at 52a draw… it was 32a… off the charger and into the mix…why? They were cycled equally and less abusive than in single.

Same goes for my 18650’s… I use the Molicel’s… and I only vape them at 15w… I also use my VT133 with them as a ohm meter and pulsing coils I make at watts from 15-80w… into the dispenser they go just the same as the 30Ts… they were used evenly.

But I can see the dilemma if you have brand x,y,z and 1,2,3 batteries and mixing them… that would drive me nuts

The space my charger uses is greater than the space of one of my dispensers that’s holds 20-21700 batteries.

cbd46568fc96057fd9a5e372a753cd62.jpg


Mine is similar, Trixy sent me one, her hubs printed it.

Pull one out, put the charged on top… easy duty cycling

So real estate I get on desks, but these can be printed to attach to a wall with double sided tape, hung off nails, how ever you want it attached.


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eSMOKA

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
When you set a charger to charge at, say, 1 amp, it's not going to charge at 1 amp the whole time for various reasons which are beyond your control.

Basically, when you choose to charge at 1 amp (or whatever you choose) you are saying, OK, I want to charge UP TO 1 amp. In other words, it's a max, not a constant.
 

Pastorfuzz

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I always charge my batts at .5 amps regardless if the charger will charge at 2.0. I’ve plenty of batts and chargers so I’ll have batts at the ready. The lighter the charge, the longer they’ll last. Still have Sony’s and Sammies from 2016 still kicking. Also just got a couple more all44’s from IMR. If they work as good as my 88, I’m happy
 

"11"

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I always charge my batts at .5 amps regardless if the charger will charge at 2.0. I’ve plenty of batts and chargers so I’ll have batts at the ready. The lighter the charge, the longer they’ll last. Still have Sony’s and Sammies from 2016 still kicking. Also just got a couple more all44’s from IMR. If they work as good as my 88, I’m happy
The 2A charge I mentioned was referring to 21700s, just FTR.

But again, totally get that everyone has their own way of doing stuff, for their own reasons that suits them. :)
 
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"11"

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That’s the beauty of batteries.

Married is only a thing if they’ve been duty cycled extremely differently.

Like me having so many 30Ts… I use them all in mechs, all at the same ohms and mostly all down to around 3.8v (vape gets really weak then)… they are all cycled in a dispenser… all dated when I got them and labeled with their initial rested voltage upon first charge.

Now let’s say I have a series mech, I’ll grab two from the bunch, slap them in and vape away… they were cycled again down to about 3.8v when I’d swap them out, but this time rather sitting at 52a draw… it was 32a… off the charger and into the mix…why? They were cycled equally and less abusive than in single.

Same goes for my 18650’s… I use the Molicel’s… and I only vape them at 15w… I also use my VT133 with them as a ohm meter and pulsing coils I make at watts from 15-80w… into the dispenser they go just the same as the 30Ts… they were used evenly.

But I can see the dilemma if you have brand x,y,z and 1,2,3 batteries and mixing them… that would drive me nuts

The space my charger uses is greater than the space of one of my dispensers that’s holds 20-21700 batteries.

cbd46568fc96057fd9a5e372a753cd62.jpg


Mine is similar, Trixy sent me one, her hubs printed it.

Pull one out, put the charged on top… easy duty cycling

So real estate I get on desks, but these can be printed to attach to a wall with double sided tape, hung off nails, how ever you want it attached.

That holder is nice. And that was a nice little bit of education. But for me, I don't use mechs, or single-batt mods, or mods that use batts in series. And what you do, paying attn to all that, is second nature to you and a no-brainer, but would be way more trouble to me than how I do it. I always read (back in the day when I started using mods) that in mods that use two batts, should marry the pair, rotate which one gets flipped, and charge them together. Maybe that's not a thing anymore but it's how I've always done it, and never had any issues. I also prefer to buy a new batch of batts every couple years b/c it makes me feel better than using old ones. I err on the side of caution when it comes to batts. Maybe more than I need to, but prefer it that way.

Not trying to be stubborn.... just saying... :)
 

"11"

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BTW the Molicel P42As took 5hrs to charge, with one of them taking 8hrs. That's at 1A. (... for lurkers who might be interested in how long they look at 1A.)

EDIT: Also FTR, the Molicel ~Don~ charged was a P26A, so less mah and would be quicker. Just in case someone was reading thru the thread wondering why these took so much longer...
 
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"11"

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When you set a charger to charge at, say, 1 amp, it's not going to charge at 1 amp the whole time for various reasons which are beyond your control.

Basically, when you choose to charge at 1 amp (or whatever you choose) you are saying, OK, I want to charge UP TO 1 amp. In other words, it's a max, not a constant.

I get that (and spoke to it earlier in this thread). But that's another thing I dislike about the All-44 - that it doesn't show the actual charge rate it's using. Or the resistance... aside from being informative both would give an idea of the health of the battery. Esp over time.
 

shawn.hoefer

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Member For 4 Years
I get that (and spoke to it earlier in this thread). But that's another thing I dislike about the All-44 - that it doesn't show the actual charge rate it's using. Or the resistance... aside from being informative both would give an idea of the health of the battery. Esp over time.
Yeah, but now you're talking about features typically found in high end chargers that cost 2 to 3 times what the Gyrfalcon costs... for a $35 consumer grade charger, the All-44 is a cut above.

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"11"

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ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Yeah, but now you're talking about features typically found in high end chargers that cost 2 to 3 times what the Gyrfalcon costs... for a $35 consumer grade charger, the All-44 is a cut above.
I saw a handful of chargers in the same price range that show actual charging rate in real time... I believe the XTAR VC8 is one, and I can't remember now if it also shows the resistance. It's inexpensive too (like the Gyrfalcon). EDIT: Yes it shows resistance by pressing a button - also has store mode and charge/discharge - at Liion for $30.99 [does not include a power block as this is a USB-powered charger].

But the GF allows independent configuring of each bay. The XTAR VC8 treats the first 4 bays like one bay, and the second 4 like another. So there are only two config choices in that case at a time (which would have still worked for me since I only use 18650s and 21700s anyway).

There were others that also showed actual charge rate and resistance by button press to cycle through that data... can't spit out names cause have looked at well over 100 in the last few days...

I'm not bashing the All-44 because it has high marks from independent reviewers/testers for the way it charges batts. But in the end it's really an automatic charger that doesn't give you any information, except that the batts have been charged. That's probably all most people want anyway. I'd be happy with a little more.
 
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eSMOKA

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
resistance

I don't think there is a charger out there that shows internal resistance anywhere near close enough to accurate in order to be useful. From what I understand, measuring internal resistance accurately takes some fairly pricey equipment. Not like millions, but a couple hundred or so.

I have the Opus and it measures IR but it's not worth a damn. I do like the charger though, I mean for the price and what you get, it's not bad. There is a hack that you can do (requires soldering) to make it do IR measurements better, but still not that accurate IIRC. Google if interested.

The SkyRC MC3000 measures IR but I don't know how well.
 

"11"

Silver Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
I don't think there is a charger out there that shows internal resistance anywhere near close enough to accurate in order to be useful. From what I understand, measuring internal resistance accurately takes some fairly pricey equipment. Not like millions, but a couple hundred or so.

I have the Opus and it measures IR but it's not worth a damn. I do like the charger though, I mean for the price and what you get, it's not bad. There is a hack that you can do (requires soldering) to make it do IR measurements better, but still not that accurate IIRC. Google if interested.

The SkyRC MC3000 measures IR but I don't know how well.
Yes, that's my understanding too. My thinking was more along the lines of using the number as one more data point - meaning not taking the number itself to heart but seeing if it (or the arc of it) changes over time.

EDIT: And yeah, looked at the SkyRC ... jury is still out on that one, meaning I don't really know if I need to go THAT far... :) I just would like more info than NO info, as it's easy to get complacent over time. And now I'm using 217's which are even bigger more powerful batts, so... yeah... a little more info to make sure everything looks good would be nice.
 
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