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Thats not the reloaded.
The Nautilus mini and full size perform the same with the BVC coils . They are very very good but after much time with both the Kayfun and Nautilus , the Kayfun if built correctly still beats them for flavor. I haven't found a replaceable coil tank yet that can beat a re buildable if it's built right.
Not Reloaded, but Reloaded clone is supposedly coming soon @ Fasttech and @ http://www.gvapers.com/products/squape-reloaded
Yeah, I have tried a lot of sizes for my GS, but the tank holes are about 1.5mm. At first I had a lot of problems with the two tank holes blocking any juice from wicking at all, a lot of dry hits. Now I just stick one strand of the wick in each hole, it wicks perfectly that way, not a dry hit since. One the wick becomes saturated the half mm wick (yes it's that small) files the hole. When I first did this, I was afraid it would drown the coil, but not one gurgle since!
Yeah, I have tried a lot of sizes for my GS, but the tank holes are about 1.5mm. At first I had a lot of problems with the two tank holes blocking any juice from wicking at all, a lot of dry hits. Now I just stick one strand of the wick in each hole, it wicks perfectly that way, not a dry hit since. One the wick becomes saturated the half mm wick (yes it's that small) files the hole. When I first did this, I was afraid it would drown the coil, but not one gurgle since!
No matter what size silica wick you use, you are going to need to unwind it (by this I mean get it down to it's individual strands). I take two strands of wick, double it over a piece of kanthal wire and thread it through my coil, then I take one strand and feed it through one hole on the cap and do this once more for the other hole on the cap. At this point, my tank is full, I lower the strands into the ejuice. I let it sit upside down for about 5 minutes, this allows the wick to become saturated. I have found by doing this it allows no juice to flood the the coil chamber. Sorry if this sounds confusing, but I can think of no other way to describe it. Good Luck!
As far as the Taifun GS goes by far the least of a PITA and best results for me have come from a simple micro coil and cotton with stainless mesh feeder wicks. I have the air tube removed so the air hole is level with the deck so I do a bit of a zig-zag pattern with the cotton tails on the deck to each side of the coil so as to have plenty of cotton to absorb juice. On the 400 stainless mesh I have have found that a width of 1 inch is perfect for rolling to a tube that fits the holes. You can use whatever length you like so that they stick into the tank to suit you. The current set in mine is 3/4 inch long made from leftover mesh and they work fine. No need to torch it as it never touches the coil. I have no leaking and no dry hits and great vapor and flavor. Rewicking is easy as you only need to replace the cotton. Just rinse the mesh and use again. Just re-insert them and slide them down till they bottom out. Only time you'll need to change them is if you spin them by turning the center section in relation to the base and bending them.
I push the mesh wicks right down into the cotton - essentially till they hit the base with whatever cotton wants to be in between - directly inline with the coil and wick.
I happen to use Japanese organic but it has worked with organic cotton balls and rayon as well. Any form of having to thread the wick through the cap is a pain. Sliding the mesh into place after coiling and wicking is easy as can be. I've seen some people trim the end at an angle in a genesis style but for me it's just more raw end to pick up cotton. Just leaving the ends square works fine.
I push the mesh wicks right down into the cotton - essentially till they hit the base with whatever cotton wants to be in between - directly inline with the coil and wick.
I happen to use Japanese organic but it has worked with organic cotton balls and rayon as well. Any form of having to thread the wick through the cap is a pain. Sliding the mesh into place after coiling and wicking is easy as can be. I've seen some people trim the end at an angle in a genesis style but for me it's just more raw end to pick up cotton. Just leaving the ends square works fine.
I use 1 inch wide for the rolling width and whatever suits for height. I used 3/4" this time because I had a 1 and 1/2" by 1" scrap handy. Rolled it on the 1" side and then cut it in half. There should be an opening through the center of the feeder wicks. I happen to use a .9mm allen wrench to slide through it but a fair sized needle or straightened paper clip would suit. It's pretty hard to roll them closed without crimping an end or something. Just make sure you can pass something small through it.
There should be enough wick to at least reach the walls in my experience. Since I have removed the air flow pin I basically cover the deck to either side of the coil. I just push the mesh down as far as it freely wants to go and leave it at that. Depending on your juice viscosity you might need to raise them slightly as that seems to give a little more flow. For my 50/50 juice just pushing them down works.
You may need to experiment a little to find the best setup for you. The nice part is that it's easier to do now.
FatDaddyVapes sells a replacement Russian 91% center post for $5.99. I haven't used it myself so I can't say if it will fix your issue. It does claim "Precision CNC'ed for guaranteed fitment" YMMV.Ok, I need the best upgrade available for my russian 510 pin. Thing sits just slightly to far in when the second pin inside(deck screw) is all the way tight. Basically the entire center pin/post screw design ruins this RTA for me.
I have the deck screw all the way tight to keep it from moving and shorting, but this causes my 510 pin to sit just slightly to deep...even a single turn out and my510 causes leaking onto my Rdna. Beyond annoying.
Just ordered the replacement center post and parts kit from fatdaddy. We shall see. I will likely get a squape reloaded clone if the reviews sound good.
If the thunder dont get you then the lightning will
This is NOT what I would've wanted to find, but it's well machined, tightly assembled, and be a good match fer my HexOhm...like a dumbass..I was gonna get a Sub Mini, and keep onnit...I gotta stay OUT the damn vape shops...needed summore nic-liq. (where's my little tools...?)Word. You can build better than you can buy.
So I get, opinions of many others...I'd prefer something with a higher point of ignition, ideally,,though about using a Zippo lighter wick...copper strand down the center...plus, or minus..? Or is it exterior copper braid...?Use cotton. Much better.
I don't know if copper is safe to vape. I have used silica in the beginning. Swiftly moving to cotton. Tried rayon too. If the cotton is well saturated it won't ignite. It is a very good wicking material. Japanese is great. If silica is all you have it will work in a pinch.So I get, opinions of many others...I'd prefer something with a higher point of ignition, ideally,,though about using a Zippo lighter wick...copper stand down the center...plus, or minus..? Or is it exterior copper braid...?
SOMEWHERE, I have sterile cotton, I know I have GAUZE (!)...and I have q-tips, easily found...ten steps away...as far as point of ignition, I'm thinking worst-case, running her dry..I don't know if copper is safe to vape. I have used silica in the beginning. Swiftly moving to cotton. Tried rayon too. If the cotton is well saturated it won't ignite. It is a very good wicking material. Japanese is great. If silica is all you have it will work in a pinch.
I still gots to locate my small pliers, or use the tick tweezers, on my keychain. Damn, cat just pinched one off....where's that mod...?I just used any old cotton balls, before I got the Japanese pads. Don't use the gauze or q tips. I would probably just use the silica until I got to store tomorrow.
Coils already built, came with the RDA, I own a Fluke DMM, and have an in-line meter, threads between the RDA/tank, and the mod. I no stranger to Ohm's Law, just not how it applies to 'mods'. And I have the Steam Engine app, on the 'phone.Don't forget to show us your build and check your ohms
I hope th' leetle Mutation X works out well for me...still gotta put together a method to thread than sili-micro-rope thru the supplied coils..might just put a dab of super glue on the very end, quickly spin the ends tight, w/ lightly oiled fingers. It'll be trimmed off, anyways.