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Broken Aspire Atlantis?

So I have an aspire Atlantis with a 30w istick and my coils last me max of 2 days. And even then I am getting dry hits as well. And now as of lately when I pull in without firing the atomizer it feels fine but then when I fire the attie the pull becomes very tight (not in the good way at all.) and I get tons of very burnt, or St the minimum not good tasting hits. ive tried taking some pulls to pull juice into the Wick, disassembling and reassembling, changing atties (7 times now), and letting the coils soak in fluid for 1-2 days even.

I really could use some help/advice. I had an atlantis before this one and it lasted me a month and a half and I was running it 28-30 watts. This one I've been running it 24-27 max. 50/50 vgpg blend.

Im just extremely frustrated and ready to give up vaping all for good if I can't fix this. Thank you!
 

madmonkey

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Hi @Cor Sicarius and welcome to VU!

I am sorry you're having problems with the Atlantis....I had nothing but problems with my Nautilus (which the Atlantis is basically a Nautilus on steroids,) and it just turned out that I had a pack of coils that all 5 of them were bad. Let's see if we can't troubleshoot here and find the problem. I will do my best to help and I hope you don't give up and go back to the icky sticks. I am just going to list everything I can think of that could be the cause of your difficulties so if you've already tried some of these I apologize. Just trying to cover anything I can think of like I said....

Ok...you said you had an Atlantis before? Is this a second one you've purchased or just a new pack of coil heads giving you a hard time? Some things to look at on the tank is everything screwing together straight or is it slightly crooked? I ask because I had a protank 2 that constantly instantly burned coils and would never wick right and always taste burnt and finally one day fiddling with it, on the verge of throwing it out the window of my bathroom into the street, I looked at it just right and realized the center stem was crooked....I had replaced the glass, all the orings, tried a different base and nothing worked....I put all of the old parts on a new top cap and then it was like night and day and whole different tank. If the coils aren't screwing in straight and everything is slightly crooked it can throw off the pressure of the vacuum and seal inside the tank causing it to not wick right and ruin everything.

If the center stem is straight then I would while the tank is still empty make sure that the bottom seal and the o-ring at the top is making a good seal and the top one is installed right...I know a bunch of the Nautilus tanks had the top o-ring installed upside down at the factory and a bunch of tanks causing hell for a bunch of people and it was as simple of fix as flipping it over.

I say (well type) this all the time and I am sure I'll be typing it for a lot more time as well...but I don't trust the QC of factory made coils for any clearomizer tank anymore....they are so mass produced now in such great numbers that it is entirely possible to get an entire pack of bad coils....I had the same problem with the original BDC coils for the Nautilus....out of 7 of those coil heads six didn't last more than 2 days and the seventh failed when I turned it up .1 past 4 volts on my old Provari.

Also...you said you've tried soaking it in juice for a day or two before using it right? Did you drip a drop or two directly on the holes where the juice feeds into the coils on the sides and/or in the top around the edges on the wicking material? I always drip on the sides and the top just like I did when I used carto tanks...these coils are basically little cartomizers and priming them the same wait drastically cuts down on wait time to use them....and just like cartos....if you fire the coil before it's fully saturated all the way threw you'll burn the bitch and never get that taste out and its shitty I know but what can you do?

If the seals are good and there's no crack in the glass and the coil is properly saturated and primed and the center post isn't bent and crooked and the coil screws into the base straight and those threads are cross threaded or mis threaded causing the coil to sit crooked and you try another coil and it instantly burns then I reckon you just have a bad tank and the only way to fix it is to take it back and trade it if you can....

like I said, I've had my fair and unfair share of the same problem and one time it was a bent center stem and the other time it was literally 7 bad coils....but don't let it discourage you and give up on vaping....I know it sucks but sometimes you just get a bummer tank and have to swap it for a good one....that being said....I didn't immediately stop smoking when I started vaping...it took a couple months to fully make the switch. And I can honestly say that the we have today that even when it's fucking up and burning coils like you're having problems with is still better than some of the best gear we had when I started so do give up. You will find a good vape and you will like and you will succeed....i have faith.

Good luck and here's hoping for a good vape :)
 

madmonkey

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oh, I almost forgot....what kind of flavors are you vaping? VG isn't the only thing that can contribute to slow wicking....sugary and sweet flavored vapes can gunk up a coil much faster than say a fruity or refreshing vape that doesn't have as sweet of flavor base. Things like cinnamon roll flavors or a thick custard can gunk up a coil much faster, especially those little carto like heads....just one last food for thought.
 
I have tried all your suggestions above before.

So is it literally just bad coils? Cause that seems insane. Is there any way to spot a bad coil? Or is it just a complete random guess? And if so what is the best way to get a shop to replace them?
 

madmonkey

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Well, since you're not running your coils super hot I can't think of anything else it would be other than a bad pack of coils unless the tank is somehow mishaped or just completely defective in some way you cannot see with the naked eye...you know what I mean? When it comes to factory coils, they all look the same to me.

I know when I first started rebuilding Kanger coils and later Aspire I would rebuild 5-10 at a time and put them up and sometimes they would for whatever reason go bad on me and I couldn't figure out why...I'd put them on my ohm's meter and they would read two or three times higher than they were supposed to...then I figured out the rubber spacer on the bottom pin that separates the negative and positive leads was worn thin, burned, or torn and just from sitting over time it would no longer hold properly and I would have to replace it and rebuild the coil again. But you shouldn't have the problem with fresh from the factory heads. I think the only real indication for new one's is if you put them on an ohm's reader or a mod and they read more than .2 off of what they're supposed then something's not right...and you can check the washer around the pin on the bottom...but it's really hard to tell for sure till you saturate them and fire them up.

unforchanitely....I don't know anyone that would take back or exchange used/doa coils....that's just one of those things you get screwed on...like I said...I went threw it went a pack of BDC coils for my Nautilus and the two that came with it and I also had a pack of Aerotank coils that 4 of them were doa and I just had to eat the loss.

Someone might come along that has a better idea than I do...I just did my best to help you cause I didn't see anyone else try yet and wanted to see if I could. Sorry I'm no help....I wish I could have been more
 
You definitely helped me find somewhat of a solution to my problem, and I've found no other answer to this anywhere online, so you've done more than just me help! I'll keep this updated on if I use a different coil and it fixes it. Going to get some today sometime.
 

bluraff3

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I only experienced this with my Atlantis after running a coil far past its lifespan (like a month and a half). Eventually, the coil deteriorated to the point that the filler material was burning, separating and pulling into the airflow channel.

It sounds to me like you've done your due diligence making sure your coils are primed, but that's the only thing I can think of: you're dry burning your coils. I always make sure that when I put in a new coil, I don't fire it until I am actually able to pull small amounts of juice while taking primer drags. Then I know it's fully saturated.

Sorry to hear about your issues. Hope you figure it out!
 

smacksy

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Sorry to hear abut your troubles with the Atlantis coils...I get about 6-8 weeks vaping at 40w with the newer cotton .5 ohm coils before needing replaced....
I found lower wattages didn't vaporize all the juice in the wick completely, led to gurgles, spit-back and poor coil life...for me 35-40w does the trick..good vapor/flavor along with great coil performance


from my Droid Maxx via Tapatalk
 

Mykline

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Member For 4 Years
When you fill the tank and screw it back together are you making sure that the wicking holes on the coil are showing between the cutouts of the chimney? If not this can cause it not to wick properly and give you dry hits.
I run max vg in my Atlantis and have no problems.
 

smacksy

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
When you fill the tank and screw it back together are you making sure that the wicking holes on the coil are showing between the cutouts of the chimney? If not this can cause it not to wick properly and give you dry hits.
I run max vg in my Atlantis and have no problems.
I used to do that until I noticed the wide slot between the chimney tabs and the coil...plenty of room for juice to get to those juice holes no matter if I could see'um or not..I also vape VG max juice too without any issues, like a dry hit..just sayin

from my Droid Maxx via Tapatalk
 

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